V ^^ * o » ' * O 








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*/*«^> 




VIEWS 

OF 

LOUISIANA ; 

CONTAINING 

GEOGEAPHICAL, STATISTICAL 

AND 

HISTORICAL 

NOTICES OF 

THAT VAST AND IMPORTANT PORTION 
OF 

AMERICA. 



Br H. M. BRACKENRIDGE, ESQ, 



BALTIMORE: 

FEINTED BY SCHAEFPER & MAUND. 

1817. 



District of Pennsylvania, to wit : 

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fourth day of 
November, m the thirty-eighth year of the Independence of thd 
United States of America, A. D. 1813, Henry M. Bracken- 
HiDGE, of the said District, hath deposited in this office the Title 
of a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author — in the words 
following, to wit: 

" Views of Louisiana; -with a Journal of a voyage v.p the Mis- 
sotin. By H. JM. BrackenridgCy Esq. 

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, 
entitled, ** An act for the encouragement of Learning, by secur- 
ing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and 
Proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned." — 
And also the Act entitled, *• An Act supplementary to the Act 
entitled, " An act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing 
the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Pro- 
prietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned," and 
extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engrav- 
ing, and etching lustorical and other prints." 

D. CALDWELL, 
Clerk of the District of Pennsylvania, 



TO 

HIS EXCELLENCY 

THE CHEVALIER 

JOSE CORREA, DE SERRA, 

MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY 

OP 

jff. M. F. Majesty^ 

THE KING OF PORTUGAL AND THE BRAZILS, 

A PLAIN republican, to whom high names, offi- 
cial dignities, or vast riches, command no awe or 
veneration, but who willingly acknowledges as his 
superior, the man of mind, whatever may be his 
station, humbly dedicates, his performance, un- 
worthy as it is, TO ONE of the most enlighten- 
ed FOREIGNERS THAT HAS EVER VISITED THE 

United States- 



The giddy world, too often assigns tlie highest " 
places in the temple of fame, to mighty conquerors 
and warriors, who are more frequently the enemies, 
than the friends of mankind, while its real benefac- 
tors, are but slowly, are never fully appreciajted. 
The few, on whom nature has bestowed the choice 
gift of a capacious mind, which they have stored with 
knowledge for the good of their fellow creatures, 
should ever be regarded as blessings to the people 
among whom they have been cast. They are to be 
received like the angel of Milton, who came down 
to instruct our first parents in wisdom and virtue. 

As an American, I am proud that my country has 
been the choice of a sage, acknowledged both by Eu- n 
rope and America, as one of the most enlightened . 
of human kind ; who after having gathered from 
every field of science in the old world, has brought 
his ample store as a present to tlie new. 

Sir, your amiable simplicity of manners, and com- 
municative temper, restore to us our Franklin ; in 
every part of otir country, which you have visited 



s 
(for -you liave nearly seen it all) your society has 
been as acceptable to the unlettered farmer as to the 
learned philosopher ; the liberal and friendly man- 
ner, in which you are accustomed to view every thing 
in these States, the partiality which you feel for their 
welfare, the profound maxims, upon every subject, 
which like the disciples of Socrates, we treasure up 
from your lips, entitle us to claim you as one of the 
fatkers of our country^ 

To none, therefore, could I with more propriety 
•dedicate my " Views of Louisiana," than to you 
whose favourite study is the American government, 
manners, and soil ; and who (I say it without hesi- 
tation) have in the short space of five years, ac- 
quired a knowledge of this country, as critical and 
extensive, as any of its most intelligent citizens. But 
if any additional motive were necessary, to justify 
•the liberty I have presumed to take in thus address- 
ing you, I could allege a sense of gratitude, for the 
commendations you were pleased to bestow^ upou 

A 2 



6 

this work, while yet in the shape of newspaper 

essays ; 

Pollio amat nostram, quamvis est rustica musam, 

ami it is in a great measure owing to those commen- 
dations, that it has assumed its present form. 

Accept, sir, the expressions of the high venera- 
tion of one who esteems it as among the most feli- 
citous circumstances of his life, to liave personally 
known you, and to be able to subscribe himself, 

Your sincere and 
ardent admirer, 

disciple, and friend, 

a. M. BRACKENRIDGE. 



TO THE READER. 



3N the month of May 1810, I landed at New Madrid, on i\ve 
Mississippi, and thence proceeded by land to St. Genevieve, with 
the intention of settling in some part of the country, in the prac- 
tice of the law. After remaining- some time, I conceived that 
Lower Louisiana, which was on its transit from territorial to state 
government, offered a better field for industry and enterprize; 
Lut, as the autumn is considered the best time for removing to 
the southern climate, and the winter was already advanced, I de- 
termined to employ my time in observing such things as appeared 
most worthy of attention. Pleased with this employment, I was 
di'awn into a more extensive research than I had at first intended, 
and felt a degree of earnestness in studies, to which I had before 
been a stranger; my -studies had been chiefly professional, or im- 
mediately connected with my profession. During the winter, a 
series of essays published by me, in Mr. Charless*s paper at St. 
Louis, were re-printed in the newspapers of the states, and 
spoken of in terms of approbation. This was highly gratifying to 
my vanity. There is something exceedingly delightful to youth 
in this taste of fame ; at a season, when the mind is filled with a, 
thousand romantic conceits, and sees nothing but fairy prospects, 
this first manifestation of applause is often dangerous, and ought 
to be guarded against with care. With many it puts an end to all 
fiu'ther effort, intoxicates the brain, paralyses tlie energies, and 
induces a belief that every thing has already been attained ; with 
others, it serves to confirm in pursuits for which nature may never 
have intended them, and in consequence, we have bad painters, 
"bad musicians, and bad authors, i have known a man entirely ru- 
ined, by having drawn a prize in a lottery, for he covdd never af- 
ter reconcile liimself to a sober industrious life. I have, there* 
fore, been in some danger of becoming an author — probably an in- 
different one. A professed author hi this coimtry, is indeed to be 
pitied; he is considered as a mere abstract man, of no importance 
oi' rank, ciyil,^ecclesiastical oi* nulitary,andaxece5sarJly takes up,lfls 



abode next door to starvation. The day, however, is not so dis- 
tant as many imagine, when literary excellence will claim its ho- 
nours even in this country. Many of my friends who read my 
essays in the newspapers, fancied that I had relinquished the pro- 
fession of tlie law, and was wandering about, gathering- geogi'a- 
phical, or statistical matter, for the purpose of making more 
books. But I thank my stars, that I have had sufficient resolu- 
tion to resist the temptation, to prove a recreant to the delightful 
pages of my Lord Coke, to the mellifluous sentences of Shepherd's 
Touchstone, to the erudite commentator Blackstone, or to my 
new friends, lustinian, the Partidas, La Recopilacion de las In- 
dias, the Ordonances of Louis XIV, and of Bilboa, the works of 
Febrero, Ferriere and Domat. 

At St. Louis, I became acquainted with two gentlemen of learn- 
ing, Mr, Bradbury, fellow of the Liimean Society, and Mr. Nuttal, 
also a naturalist. My acquaintance with these gentlemen, served 
to nourish the fondness I had acquired for similar pursuits. I 
travelled over a great part of th« Missouri territory, and ascended 
the Missouri river IfOO miles. In the month of November, 
I embarked for New Orleans, where 1 arrived about tlie first of 
January. I afterwards, for two years, was continually occupied 
in traversing the new state, part of the time as Deputy Attorney 
General, and part as a district Judge. My health being some- 
what impaired, I resigned my office, and returned to a more 
northern latitude, with a view of recovering my former vigor of 
constitution. 

In the volume which I t)ffer to tlie public, tlie reader is not to 
expect the scientific production of a philosopher, like Mohna, 
Humboldt, or Depons, but the passing observations of a young 
lawyer, who had neither ability nor leizure to produce such a 
work. I have read with care, almost every thing in French, Spa- 
nish, or English, which relates to Louisiana, and have been cautious 
not to burthen my book with common place, or what may be easily 
procured fi-om other sources. The French writers are very nu- 
merous, the principal are Charlevoix, Du Pratz, Dumont, the ma- 
nuscript of La Harp, the tlu'ee voyages of H^nipin, the voyage of 
the Chevalier DeTonti, the works of LaHontan and Lafiteau, be- 
sides a great number more modern. Little of this coinitry was ac- 
curately known, until it came into the possession of the United 
States; the sources of the Mississippi, Missouri, Red river, Ar- 
kansas, White river, have been fully explored by Lewis and 
Clark, by Pike, and by a number of private Individuals. The 
delta of the Mississippi, which was very little known, has been 
actually surveyed by the officers of the American government. 
The work of Mr. Darby, Lays open a new region. The book of 



Major Stoddard, although in general well written, contains too 
much of what might be gathered in the closet ; Mr. Ellicott, and 
Hunter and Dunbar, are the most scientific that have written of 
Louisiana ; it is however a valuable work. 

Travels through countries but recently inhabited by civilized 
people, must necessarily be different from those which have long 
been in a high state of cultivation. Instead of amusing incident, 
descriptions of manners and customs, characters of distinguished 
persons, political and moral reflections, historical reminiscences, 
and a variety of other topics ; the traveller has only to describe 
the face of nature in a state almost primitive, the monotonous 
character of a few wandermg savages, or the situation of settle- 
ments still in their infancy. To such a traveller, a knowledge of 
natural history is indispensable; and here I must confess my igno- 
rance of the most essential qualification. Lord Coke (who was no 
naturalist) justly observes, that the law "is a jealous mistress 
and will not abide a rival ;'* to become a botanist, mmeralogist, 
or geologist, requires long and undivided attention. No one, 
however, can be a greater lover than I am, of the face of nature^ 
and I have always dwelt with rapture on her beautious features, 
although but little acquainted with the analysis of the character 
which they conceal. The reader will find topographical sketclies 
or "views," some account of the soil, and of the navigation of ri- 
vers, descriptions of the towns and villages, and such other ob- 
jects as would meet the eye of a transient passenger. It is also 
fair to mention that the work is still iiicompleie ; there are seve- 
ral chapters yet wanting to fill up the third Book; the volume be- 
ing already swelled to a larger size than I had intended. 

It has always appeared to me, that the observations of travel- 
lers, if made with any tolerable degree of accuracy, should rank 
amongst the most useful productions, and should moreover be 
entitled to great indulgence. What can be more pleasing and in- 
structive than the testimony of eye witnesses, relative to objects 
of the most interesting nature, which we are precluded from visit- 
ing ourselves, or than the remarks of intelligent persons on what 
chances to come imder their notice during their peregrinations 
through distant countries ! In the early ages of society, when 
there were no colleges or extensive libraries, travelling from one 
nation to another, was almost the only means of acquiring supe- 
rior knowledge. 

nMultomimque hominum urbes, et mores cognovit. 

A wise man and a great traveller almost signified the same 
thing. When in the form of narrative, this species of composi- 
tion has all the attractions of romance, combined with the useful- 



10 

ness of truth. I have always perused the book of travels with pe- 
culiar delight, no matter how aukward its style, or humble the 
adventurer. In this kind of writing, the fidelity of truth is far to 
be preferred to the mere artifice or elegance of direction.* It 
may be said to be a species of composition free alike to the illite- 
rate and the learned, requiring no peculiar or appropriate style ; 
demanding neither the dignified march of history, the brilliancy 
of works of the imagination, nor the precision and regularity of 
those which are purely scientific, yet, admitting with propriety 
something of them all. Men of the most common acquirements 
are not thought presumptuous in attempting it; for it may be the 
fortune of such only, to have witnessed facts of the highest inte- 
rest, or to have passed through countries not likely to be visited 
by the leta-ned. Hence the various modes adopted by travellers, 
from the regular and systematic essay, down to the simple diary 
or journal. 

* The travels of Frenchmen in general, are bedizened with 
conceits of the fancy, and those of Englishmen loaded with slug- 
gish prejudice. This, at least, has been the case of nearly all 
which are written respecting America. 



CONTENTS. 



BOOK L 

Pa^e 
CHAPTER I.— Discovery— first settlement— and political 

history of Louisiana, - 13 

CHArP. n. — ^War with the Chickasas — civil and political 

history of Louisiana, down to the treaty of Iklephonso, 47 
CHAP. in. — ^Boundaries — importance of Louisiana, - $7 
CHAP. IV. — General description — face of the country be- 
yond the settlements — capacity for the reception of popu- 
lation — curious appearances, 66 

CHAP. V. — The alluvial tracts on the rivers Mississippi, 

Missouri, Arkansas, &c. 82 

CHAP. VI.— Lakes and Rivers, 91 

CHAP. Vn. — ^Natural or indig-enous productions — animal, 

vegetable and mineral, 112 

CHAP. Vin. — Indian nations — trade — general enumeration, 132 
CHAP. IX.— View of the country on the Columbia, - 162 

CHAP. X. — Antiquities in the valley of the Mississippi, 16S 

BOOK IT. 

CAAP. I. — General description of the territory of Missouri, 
settlement, rivers, &Cr 165 



11 

CHAP. 11. — Description of the country between NewMad- 
rid and St. Genevieve, - 190 

CHAP. ni. — Description of the country from Cape Girar- 
deau to the Missouri, - 201 

CHAP. IV. — Political divisions — ^inliabitants — settlements, 
population, 208 

CHAP, v.— Towns and villages, .... 217 

CHAP. VI. — Character of the ancient inhabitants, change 
of government, 21 

CHAP. Vn.— Climate, productions, &c. - . . 252 j 

CHAP, Vin. — ^Lead mines in the district of St. Genevieve, 
mode of working them — their produce, 

CHAP. IX. — Description of the American bottom — ^Kaskas- 
kia — ^fort de Chartres — ^]Monks of La Trappe, - - 270 

BOOK III. 

CHAP. I. — State of Louisiana — boundaries — ^general de- 
scription, ..--.---- 

CHAP. II. — The Levees, or embankments of tlie Missis- 
sippi, 308 



VIEWS 
or 



LOUISIANA 



IN THREE BOOKS. 



CHAP. I. 



Discovery-— first Settlement — and Political History of 
Louisiana. 

THE history of tlie first settlement of nearly all 
the American colonies, presents us with nearly the 
same recital of extreme suffering and liardy adven- 
ture on the part of the early settlers, as well as of 
tlie most grievous defects in the systems of coloni- 
zation. Louisiana was not more fortunate than the 
T'est ; the whole series of colonial misfortune and suf- 
fering, were experienced hy her in their most dis- 
tressing shapes. — Not until after repeated failures 
and the lapse of more tlian a century from the first 
attempt, could it he said to have taken root, and it 
was at least a half a century more before it flourish- 
ed. The {listory of this province is replete with in- 
teresting and instructive incident; the few pages, 
therefore, which I sliall devote to tlie subject will 
scarcely enable me to do more than give an outline 
of the principal occurrences: even that, I hope will 
not be unworthy the attention of the reader. It was 

B 



14 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA- 

not long after their settlement in Cuba, that the 
Spaniards became acquainted with the continent 
which formed the shores of the Mexican Gulph, and 
was visited by several of their navigators. Part 
w^as known b}' the name of Florida, and part was 
denominated New-Spain after having- been conquer- 
ed by that daring adventurer Hernando Cortez. — 
Under the name of Florida, the) claimed all the re- 
mainder of the North American continent, east of 
tlie river Panuco, and declared these parts held by 
France and England as unjust encroachments upon 
their dominions.^ Not that they had been the lirst 
to discover or explore those regions, but as liaving 
taught tlie European nations the way to the new- 
world, of wliich they had received a free gift from 
Pope Alexander the sixth; by what means his holi- 
ness was authorised to make it, ^n as not an enquiiy 
for those days. 

The marvelous fortunes of Cortez gave rise to a 
species of romantic adventure, carried on much in 
the spirit of tlie fictions of ArioKto. A vast conti- 
nent almost unkiu)wn, alTorded am[)le room for all 
the cr&ations of fancy, and in consequence the 
country now called Louisiana, then a part of Flori- 
da, became the tlieatre of many extravagant adven- 
tures in pursuit of civilized Indians, supposed to be 
jx)ssessed of vast treasures; but the adventurers were 
wi'etchedly disappointed in tlieir Iiopes. Sti*ange 
as it may seem, among the idle fictions which were 
currently believed in that superstitious age, and 
constituted real incitements to their minds, was the 
celebi'ated fountain of Florida, which was said to 

* Kerof Kerrsland's Memoirs, 1772 — History of European set- 
tlements, in 1775, and Postlethwaybe on commerce, published 
1745 — Don A;idi-e,j Gonzales de Boreca. 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 15 

possess tlic quality of restoring youth, or of render- 
ing it perpetual, to him who shouhl be so fortiinate 
as to bathe in its enchanted waters ! Nothing was 
fiirtlier from tlie intentions of such men, tlian to s^^^t 
down iii tlie midst of a wiklerness, and make per- 
manent establishments ; tlieironly object was to rob 
tlie natives of whatever article of value might be 
fi)U!id among them. The world received as little 
bsncfit from these expeditions, as those by whom 
they were undertaken. 

Pontio dc Leon, is generally consid^'rcd as one of 
the first to land on the sliores of Florida. In 1512, 
about six years before the conquest of Mexico, he 
penetrated some distance in pursuit of the enchanted 
fountainj but he was met by the natives with great 
ferocity, who considered him an invader and com- 
pelled him to seek his safety in fliglit. Fontio was 
compelled to return home witli his remaining com- 
rades, after having suffered much from hardships 
and the enmity of the Indians. In 1520, Vasquos 
de Ayllon, landed and explored the vicinity of a ri- 
ver which he called t]ie Jourdan in tliat part of 
Florida, which is now South Carolina; his stay 
however, was but little longer than that of De 
Leon, and his success no better. 

A few years after tliis, Pamphile de Narvaes, (the 
(same wlio had been sent by the governor of Cuba, 
ti put a stop to the progress of Cort z,) obtained 
,t from Cbarles tlie fifth, the government of Florida. 
Narvaes coasted along the northern sliore of tlie 
gulph of ^lexico, landed several times, had fre- 
quent recounters witli tlie Indians, who killed many 
of his people, and at lengtli perished miserably him- 
self, witliout having even built a fort. 

Hernandes de Soto, being afterwards made cap- 
tain general of Florida, in the year 1539, at the 



16 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

head of eight or nine hundred men, landed in this 
country, and penetrated a considerable distance ta 
the interi<)r. He continued for several years wan- 
dering in search of gold, of civilized Indians and of 
miraculous fountains ; in the meantime, he was much 
harrassed by the natives, his party was divided, and 
dispersed in small bands, the greater part of which, 
were never afterwards heard of, and finally de Soto 
himself died on the banks of the Mississippi.^ The 
nnliappy issue of these different expeditions, entirely 
dissuaded adventun-is from any further attempt, 
until esta^blishments were formed by the French. 

In the year 1523, Yerazzani, an Italian mariner, 
in the service of France, had discovered Florida, 
but like the Spanish adventurers, had attempted no 
settlement. This discovery W'as not followed up 
hy the French, owing to the almost total inatten- 
tion to ximerica, during the troubled reigns of Fran- 
cis ir. and of Charles IX. The celebrated Coligny, 
ahout this time, desirous of obtaining freedom of re- 
ligious worship, for the persecuted sect to which he 
belonged, conceived the idea of going in search of 
the country discovered by Verazzani, and of plant- 
ing a colony of Protestants ; a scheme rather encou- 
raged by the King, who was desirous of chacing off 
the Hugonots. He cast his eye upon tliat part of 
Florida, which Verazzani liad described as most 
suitable for the establishment of a colony ; for be- 
sides the miklness of the climate, and the fertilitv of. 



* In the account of this expedition by llerera, it is mentioned 
that de Soto, in the year 1541, reached MaviHa, an Indian town, 
endowed with wooden walls. Here he liafl an eng-ag-ement in which 
2000 of the natives were shiin, and 83 Spaniards, and 45 horses. — 
An Indian village named Chicaca, was burnt. See Amer. Ann. 
1vol. 91. — A tradition prevailed among the Kaskaskia Indians, of 
having killed the first tribes they had seen. 



I 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 17 

the soil, he rancicd, as is observed by Chaiievoix, 
tlie French would find no one to dispute tlieir 
right, or even to trouble them. Jean dc Ribault, 
being chosen by the admiral to undertake the expe- 
dition, sat oft" the 18th of Februrry, 1562. He first 
landed at a place which he named Cape Francois^ 
about the 30 degrees of N. lat. and turning to the 
right, discovei-ed a short time after, a river which 
he called la riviere des Dauphins, but did not enter. 
Pursuing this course, at the distance of fifteen 
leagues, he discovered another river, which he en- 
tered on the first of May, from which circumstance 
he gave it the name of la riviere de Mai. Here he 
found a great number of the natives, by whom, from 
that conciliatory policy, which t]ie French have so 
successfully pursued, towards tliese people, he was 
well received : and reciprocal presents were given 
to the great satisfaction of the Indians. But having 
in view the river Jourdan, he hastened his departure 
from this place, but not without liaving first erected 
a pillar, on which were engraven the arms of 
France, and taking possession of the country in the 
name of the king and of the admiral : a vain cere- 
mony, but which had been sanctioned by the pre- 
vailing custom of nations. He afterwards gave to 
the rivers which he successively discovered, for six- 
ty leagues, the names of French rivers, and at length 
east anchor, in what he supposed the Jourdan, but 
which was called afterwards by the Spaniards Santa 
Cruz, and by the natives Shawano.f at present Sa- 
vannah. Rib ault at this place, built a fort which he 
called Fort Charles; the Indians manifested the 
greatest fiiendship. Leaving here the pei-sons who 

I The Shawan(i§c Indians formerly lived on this river, 
B2 



18 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

had accompanied him, for the purpose of establish- 
ing a colony, he took his departure. Unfortunate- 
ly, the direction and government of it, were resigned 
to a person altogether unqualified for the task : and 
who soon manifested great imprudence, and the most 
wanton severity. The colony in a short time suf- 
fered severely from famine, disease, and a complica- 
tion of miseries: the unfortunate settlers, driven 
almost to despair, came at lengtli to the resolution of 
endeavouring to regain their native land, in a vessel 
built by them under the most discouraging circum- 
stances. 

Here we cannot refrain from expressing our sur- 
prise, how men c'ln be induced voluntarily to tear 
themselves, from the bosom of a refined and civil- 
ized society, to retire to a wilderness, and become 
the neighbours of savage men and of wild beasts ! 
But the sweet and cheering hope of regaining 
their native soil, after having acquired the compe- 
tent means of subsistence, has been found never to 
abandon the emigrants from France. Even the pow- 
erful incertive of religous freedom, was not suffi- 
cient alone. The belief that every part of the Ame- 
rican continent was equally rich in mines of gold 
and silver, and other precious metals, will account, 
both> for the readiness with which adventurers, em- 
barked in colonizing enterprises, and the ill success 
of the first expeditions ; instead of cultivating the 
soil, the greater part of their time, was spent in 
running about in pursuit of treasures, hidden in the 
bowels of the eai'th. 

The admiral, not discouraged by the failure of 
this attempt, soon succeeded in preparing another 
armament, consisting of three vessels provided with 
every thing tliat might be required by a young co- 
lony, and gave the command to Rene de Laud a- 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 19 

mere. Fifty thousand crowns were advanced to 
this expedition, by the king and several g-entlemen of 
fortune, and young persons of family, were desirous 
of making this voyage at their own expense ; also 
there were joined to it some detachments of soldiers, 
chosen from among the veteran corps. On the 26th 
of June, 1564, he entered the Dauphin river, but did 
not land, much to the apparent chagrin of the In- 
dians who seemed disposed to receive him in the 
most friendly manner. He continued his course to 
the May river, where he landed, ascended some dis- 
tance, and, being well received by the natives, com- 
menced an establishment. Notwithstanding all these 
advantages, and flattering auspices, a similar fate 
attended this colony as the first. The colonists 
were immediately carried away by the delusion of 
searching for the precious metals. This mania 
was taken advantage of by an arful cliief, who 
drew tliem into a war with his enemies, a powerful 
tribe, by the following sti'atagem ; he exhibited some 
pieces silver, (which it is supposed, he had pro- 
cured from some vessel wrecked on the coast,) and 
declared that his enemies from whom he had taken 
them, possessed abundance of the same metal. The 
colony now began to feel the usual calamities, 
from dissention, famine, the neglect of tillage, and 
from an Indian war, which tliey had wantonly pro- 
voked. In this state of things, they had come to 
the resolution of re-embarking, when all of a sud- 
den, to the general surprize, seven vessels appeared 
in the river. This proved to be Ribault who was 
returning with succour to the colony. 

About this time the attempt of France to colonize 
Florida, became known in Spain, whose monarch 
claimed the country in virtue of the Pope's Bull, 



20 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

and tlie particular discoveries of Poiitio de Leon, 
and other Spanish adventurers. Pedro de Menen- 
dez, was immediately dispatched by that monarchy, 
to estahlish a colony, and to drive away the French. 
The armament, might be considered lor that period, 
and for the occasion, a formidable one, consisting 
of ten vessels, and upwards of two thousand men. 
Before he could reach the place of his destination, 
a storm arose, which dispersed and scattered his 
ships, so that he arrived with only five. These 
were attacked by some English vessels, tJien at the 
mouth of tlie river, and compelled to fall down to the 
Dauphin, which they entered, giving it tlie name 
of St. Augustine ; here they commenced an esta- 
blishment. In the meanwhile Ribaut, contrary to 
the advice of his officers, embarked nearly all liis 
force, in order to attack and destroy tlie Spanish 
fleet, and left but sixty or seventy men in his fort. 
He had come in sight of the Spaniards, when a 
dreadful tempest drove him off the coast. The Spa- 
nish commander, rightly conjecturing, that the 
greater part of the garrison, had been embarked on 
this occasion, resolved to marcli over land and 
storm the fort. This he accomplished in five days 
after his discovery of the English squadron, suc- 
ceeded completely in his enterprise, meeting in fad 
with but little or no resistence. This acliievement, 
honourable in its commencement, was liowever, 
wound up by one of those acts of barbarous cruelty, 
which causes humanity to shudder, when related of 
tlie most ferocious savages, and which stamps infa- 
my and shame on civilized men ; the prisoners who 
surrendered at discretion, and tlie miserable fugi- 
tives who were afterwards caught, were hung upon 
a tree, onwiikh was suspended this sentence: not 



BOOK T. mSCOA ERY AND SETTLEMENT. 21 

AS Frenchmen but as iiehetics and enemies 
OF God; a seiitcnce, and an action whicli to use the 
A\orils of the great Curran, was worthy of *• that 
higotry, wliose hanner is stolen from the altar of 
God, and her [lowers congregated from the abyses of 
hell." Menendez giving the name of St. Matheo, 
to the fort he had taken, left a garrison in it, and 
returned to St. Augustin. Ribaut at the same time 
paid dearly for his impmdence ; after being ship- 
wrecked on the Bahama banks, he attempted with 
the remainder of his force to regain the fort by land. 
Having approached it, after incredible hardships, 
he learned, that it was in the possession of the Spa- 
niards. One of his ollicers was sent with proposals, 
and it was solemnly agreed on both sides, that the 
commander of the fort, should supply them with a 
vessel to return to France ; !)ut he no sooner found 
these unfortunate people in his power, than regard- 
less of humanity and justice, and in order to giving 
the finishing touch to the bloody tragedy so well 
begun, he ordered them to be barbarously butch- 
ered. 

Such is the melancholy story of these early colo- 
nies : it is related by Charlevoix, in his loose and 
rambling way, with many details, but which are more 
curious than instructive. This WTiter, expresses in 
the strongest terms his indignation, at the atrocious 
and abominable conduct of the Spaniards, and abso- 
lutely denies that Spain ever liad any just right to 
the country, which was the scene of her violence 
and fraud. 

France and Spain, were at this period in a state 
of profound peace, nor does this outrage, appear to 
have in the least, excited the indignation of the for- 
mer, owing to the circumstance of the unfortunate 



22 VIEWS OF LOUISIAXA. 

victims having been protestants and heretics. But 
it was left to a private gentleman, to avenge the in- 
jury offered to his country, and to chastise the bar- 
barous usurpers of Florida. This was the Che- 
valier de Goui'ges, a man who in those times, had 
distinguished himself on various occasions for that ro- 
mantic valour, which was then so highly esteemed ; 
tlie indignation which he felt at the insult ofiTeied 
his country, was heightened by a sense of personal 
wrongs, having been for many years confined in Spa- 
nish prisons. Under the pretence of setting on foot 
an expedition for tlie purpose of attempting some 
enterprise on the coast of Africa, he formed at his 
own expense, and with the assistance of his per- 
sonal friends, a considera!)> armament, and steer- 
ed for Florida. On his arrival he was joined by 
the Indians, who had become greatly dissatisfied 
with the Spaniards, stormed St. Matheo, and car- 
ried it with little difficulty. The greater part of 
the garrison, who defended themselves with despe- 
ration, were killed in the assault; tlie survivors 
were now dragged to tlie siime ti-ee, on ^^ hich tlie 
French had been hanged, and in the execution of a 
severe, but not unjust retaliation, Mere made to un- 
dergo the pains which they had before so cruelly in- 
flicted ', the former inscription being replaced by 
one to this effect, "not as Spaxiards, but as 
MURDERERS AND CUT THROATS. '^ Having de- 
stroyed the fort, and completed the principal ohject 
of his expedition, he soon after embarked ; St. 
Augustin was considered as too formidable for his 
party. 

The attention of France seems to have been alto- 
gether withdrawn from this quarter of the conti- 
went, during an interval of many years : being at 



BOOK I. DISCOVERT AND SETTLEMENT. 2S 

this time cliiefly occupied with her settlements in 
Canada, wliicli had he,^iin to flourish, St. Augus- 
tiii and all Florida, were about the same time aban- 
doned by the Spaniards. The progress of these 
settlements however, in time led to the discovery of 
the Mississippi and to the settlement of Louisiana. 
The tliirst of gain, and tlie zeal for spreading the 
gospel, co-ope I'ated in attracting adventurers and 
missionaries, to tlie interior of this vast wilderness, 
along the lakes, and on the rivers, whi( h take their 
sources in their neighbourhood. About the year 
16ri, it became known in Canada from the infor- 
mation of Indians, tliat there was a great river to 
the west of New France, which neither flowed to the 
east nor to tlie north. It ^^ as conjectured tliat it 
must either discharge itself into the gulph of Mexi- 
co, or into tlie south sea; it consecjuently soon be- 
cauie a matter of great interest and importance, 
tliat. tills fact should be ascertained. Witli this view, 
M. Frontenac, tlien go^rernor of Canada, sent the 
priest Marquette, and a ti-ader named Joliet, about 
the year 1673 or 74, to explore this river, already 
famous. These persons accompanied only by three 
or four men, ascended the river of the Foxes, and 
crossed to the Wisconsing, which they descended 
to the Mississippi. They sailed dawn this river, 
discovei'ing some considerable streams, of which 
the celebrated iSIissouri was then su])posed to be 
one, and which was called by the Indians Peklta- 
iioni, A few leagues below it they found three 
large villages of Illinois, which was the tcirn of 
their voyage. 

Little was done towai'ds the further discovery of 
this interior region, until it was undertaken by the 
enterprizing La Salle. This gentleman had form- 



24 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ed a trading establishment at the lower end of lake 
Ontario, which at that time was thought no inconsi- 
derable distance to A^enture into the Indian country. 
La Salle urged by the ambition of being a discover- 
er, and by the prospects of fortune, which now 
seemed to be opened, resolved sbortly after the re- 
turn of Marquette, to attempt the discovery of tlie 
Mississippi. He sat off in the year 1770, in 
company with Fatlier Hennipin, (for it was usual 
to attach a missionary to these expeditions) 
and three or four men ; he sailed along the lakes to 
Micliigan, and then descended the Illinois river, 
but was compelled to remain liere during the win- 
ter, and did not reach the Mississippi until the 
spring follow ing. Father Hennepin witli two men, 
ascended the Mississippi as far as the falls of St. 
Anthony ; in the account which he gives of his 
voyage, he pretends to have also gone dow n tlie ri- 
ver to its morrfh. but in this he lias been detected in 
attempting sli auiefui impostssre. In the mean time La 
Salle finding that his resources WTre not adequate 
to liis first designs, after examining the country 
about the Illinois, with v.hich he was much pleased, 
returned to Canada, and left the Chevalici- de Tonti 
in command of a little fort, which he had built and 
named Crevecoeur. This gentleman, however, 
soon after followed M. La Salle. These two men 
by dint of gi*eat exertion succeeded in obtaining 
some necessary supplies, and in enlisting a number 
of volunteers, in tlie scheme of forming a settlement 
on the banks of the Mississippi, in the country of 
the Illinois. Tiiey reached their place of destina- 
tion in the year 1773, and founded the villages of 
Kaskaskia, Cohokia, and several others of less note, 
La Salle, placing M. dc Tonti at tlie head of his es- 



BOOIC I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 25 

tablishment,=*!' proceeded to the mouth of the Missis- 
sippi, and after having examined the adjacent coun- 
try, returned with the fixed resolution of cstablisli- 
ing- a colony. He returned to Quebec, and from 
thence sailed to France, whei-e making known 
his discoveries and plans, he succeeded in obtaining 
considerable assistance from the king, and about 
the latter end of the year 1684, set sail from La Ro- 
chellc. But according to Charlevoix, from an un- 
fortunate violence of temper, which often produced 
acts of ill timed severity, and from an overweening 
confidence in his own abilities and resources, which 
led him to treat the opinions of others with con- 
tempt, he rendered liimsclf the object of dislike to 
his companions. This was tlie cause of his ulti- 
mate failure. He is said to have passed by the mouth 
of tlie river of which he was in search, though it was 
seen by every person on board the ships; and 
persisted with such obstinacy, that jie would not 
even listen to proposals, of sending a boat to exam- 
ine : having from his own observations and cal- 
culations, placed it considerably further soutli. — 
He arrived at tiie bay of St. Bernard, and now dis- 
covered his error, when it w as too late, for the na- 
val commander, became as obstinate as himself, 
positively refused to return, and placed him on 
shore with all his men and e?juipments. La Salle 
built a fort at tiiis place, and shortly afterwards set 
out, witli tlie intention of reaching the Mississippi 
by land, but was unfortunately assassinated by 
some of his own people, before he could effect hisj 
object. His whole company, with the exception of 

* Stoddard — some autliors state, however, that the Chevalier de 
Tonti, aetuaJl/ descended the Mississippi. 
C 



26 "VIEWS OF LOUISIAXA. 

a few individuals, who readied Canada, finally pe- 
rished, heing cither destroyed by the Indians, or 
taken prisoners by the Spaniards and condemned to 
the mines. 

Notwithstandingthese discoiiragingfailures, the co- 
lonization of the Mississippi was not abandoned. 
M. D'lberville, a gentleman of considerable cele- 
brity as a naval commander, associated with M. 
Chateaumorand, was sent with two ships, to explore 
tlie country about the moutliof the river, and to form 
an establishment. He reached the bay of Pensaco- 
la early in 1799, wliere he found a Spanish fort, 
lately constructed and garrisoned by three hun- 
dred men, who had been detached from Vera Cruz, 
to take possession of Florida. They were not dis- 
posed to welcome their visitors, and even refused 
them permission to water. 

D'Iberville continued his course to the southward, 
and entered the bay of Mobile. There was at this 
time a fine harbour here, but which was afterwards 
iilled up by the sands left on the bar after a tem- 
pest. The first jdace at which lie landed, was deno- 
minated Viste a massacre^ from the discovery of 
several human bodies mangled in the most shocking 
manner : but which was afterwards called LHsle a 
JJanphin, From this place he proceeded to the 
main land, and afterwards accompanied by a small 
party of his men, penetrated to the Mississippi. 
Having discovered this noble river, he returned to 
liis vessels, and coasting along until he came to its 
mouth, entered and ascended a considerable dis- 
tance, and erected a fort. He afterwards ascended 
in a barge as far as the Natches, with which place 
lie was so much pleased, that he conceived the idea 
of founding a city there to be named Rosalie. Tho 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. ^7 

Mississippi was at this period ,i>;cncraHy known by 
the name of the river St. Louis, which had been 
given by La Salle, but the country on both sides 
still retained tliat of Florida ; it was not until about 
this time that it was generally known by the name 
of Louisiana. 

It is related that shortly after the arrival of the 
French, two Englisli vessels came in search of 
tlie Mississi})pi, having been induced to undertake 
the settlement of its borders, by the glowing and 
fabulous description of father Hennepin. One of 
these vessels ascended as far as the bend of the ri- 
ver, which is still called from the circmnstance, tlic 
English turn : no attempt was made to land, proba- 
bly from tlieir having been anticipated, and from dis- 
appointment in the appearance of the country , wliicli 
in a state of nature is far from inviting. Florida 
was also claimed at this time in virtsie of the disco- 
veries of Sebastian Cubot, who sailed along the 
coast without landing, and in virtue of her own 
chartres, wliich extended indefinitely. There can 
be nothing more absurd, than the two grounds of 
claim set up by England and Spain to this conti- 
nent; the gift of his Holiness, who had no right to 
give, and chartres by tlie donor to herself. The 
custom of nations on the discovery of Ame- 
rica, introduced the right of discovery into the pub- 
lick law; by which, the adventurer who first be- 
holds a part of this continent, or runs over it, may 
set himself up as the owner. The right of settle- 
ment in a country waste and unappropriated, but 
merely infested by wild men, by bears, panthers, 
wolves, rattlesnakes and mosquitos, is a different 
matter. 

This colony thus planted by DTbcrville, labour- 
ed with many difficulties, and for years after its 



28 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

commencement, was probably one of the least pro- 
mising on the continent. Its establishment was 
regarded by those who had colonies in the vicinity 
with jealous eyes ; the Englisli on one side, and 
the Spaniards on the other, nsed every means in 
their power to retard its grov.i^h: but could the 
genius which visited Columbus in his prison have 
appeared to D'Iberviile, he would have shewn him 
Louisiana, the greatest and wealthiest of the new 
world ! The injudicious choice of the spot in the 
ilrst instance, for the principal settlement, the 
Kniiealthiness of a climate against whose dangers 
experience had not taught to provide, the complicated 
wants and privations of the settlers, and the jea- 
lousies and disputes among the great men of the co- 
lony, were formidable enemies to its prosperity. 
Instead of planting themselves at once upon the 
fertile banks of the Mississippi, they selected the 
meagre soil of the Beloxi near the mouth of the 
Perdido, and the Isle of Dauphin, scarcely capable 
of producing a few garden vegetables. The French 
colonists, unlike the English and Dutch settlers, who 
applied themselves to tlie cultivation of the earth, 
threw away their time in a pitiful traffic with the 
neighbouring Indians, for the skins of wild animals, 
or imitated the mode of life of these lazy children of 
nature. 

The return of DTberville to France, in the year 
1700, was felt as a serious loss to the colony. He 
was a man of talents, and was likely to possess tliat 
kind of ascendency over the minds of the colonists, 
so essential in the colonial state. It lingered for 
twelve years, at one moment on the point of ex- 
tinction, and again revived by some imexpected 
reinforcement. A good understanding was, how- 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 39 

ever, maintained witli the Indians, and after some 
time, they were on a tolerable footing- with the Spa- 
niards of Pensacola : former animosities were so 
far forgotten, that they even rendered each other 
occasional assistance. During this period, it is esti- 
mated that two thousand five hundred persons arrived 
in Louisiana, few of whom ever returned to France, 
and upwards of half a million of livres had been ex- 
pended by the king; and yet at the close of this 
year, (1712) the whole population did not exceed 
four hundred souls, about twenty of whom were ne- 
groes. Their stock did not exceed twenty head of 
cattle of all kinds, and their agricultural progress 
was so trifling, that had they left the country, a few 
years would have obliterated every trace of their 
existence. 

The king disgusted with the expences thus use- 
lessly incurred, and discouraged by the little suc- 
cess in the establishment of this colony, conceived 
that it would be better to resign the charge to some 
enterprising and intelligent individual, who would 
feel an interest in bestowing the pains necessary to 
the discovery and remedy of the evils which op- 
posed themselves, to the gro\^i;h of this unpro- 
mising section. For this purpose, M. Crosat, a gen- 
tleman of great wealth and credit, was selected, 
and a grant of the colony was made to him, for the 
term of ten years, giving him the entire manage- 
ment of it, and the exclusive right of trade for tliat 
period. Great expectations were formed by Crosat; 
his vicinity to New Spain, it was supposed would 
enable him to carry on a lucrative trade with that 
quarter, and certainly, but for the gloomy jealousy 
of the Spaniard^; he would not have been disap- 
2c 



30 llEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

pointed. Many reports, at this time, had reached 
France, of the mines of the Illinois, it was confident- 
ly believed, the precious metals were to be found there, 
as well as in the spurs of the Cordilleras. With 
these objects in view, it may well be supposed, that 
the mere trade of the colony, was little thought of. 
The first Governor under this grant, M. La Motte, 
arrived and took possession in 1713. Tlie first act 
of La Motte, after establishing something like order 
in the colony, was to dispatch a vessel to Vera 
Cruz, to request permission to trade with Mexico ; 
this was positively denied. The expectations of 
discovering gold or silver mines in the Illinois, 
were also soon disappointed. He was not, how- 
ever altogether disheartened, by the refusal of the 
Vice-roy : he now hoped that by gradually extend- 
ing the establishments of Louisiana towards the 
Mexican provinces, he might ultimately succeed in 
his views. To fui'ther this design, an enterprising 
man of the name of St. Dennis, was sent with a 
small body of men, to establish a fort on the Red 
river, and to proceed from thence towards the Rio 
J3ravo, in order to ascertain the situation of the 
Spanish settlements. St. Dennis found the country 
east of the Rio Bravo, entirely unoccupied, but 
discovered on the west side, a party of Spaniards 
who had just built a fort. Here he was well re- 
ceived by the commanding officer, whose sister he 
married. About the same time, two othei* detach- 
ments were sent into the country by La Motte : 
one of which built a fort near the source of the 
Sabine, called Le Bout ; (which was maintained un- 
til Louisiana was ceded to Spain) the other pene- 
trated to a nation of Indians called the Assinais, 
situated on a small river, twenty or thii'ty miles 



BOOK I. DISC0\T:RY AND SETTLEMENT. 31 

west of Natchitoches, where a fort wase rected, the 
ruins of which, it is said, are still visible. 

Some trade was now cariied on with the interior 
of Mexico, by the means of these posts, and La 
Motte began to entertain hopes that it would gra- 
dually increase. But the jealous Spaniards, being 
appi'ehensive that the French settlements would 
approach too near theirs, and to the mines south 
of the Rio Bravo, altliougli anticipated in the occu- 
pancy of tlie tract of country on this side of that 
river, resolved to set up a claim to this part of 
Florida ; in pursuance of which it was declared a 
province, under the name of Texas, though without 
a single inhabitant, who owned their authority. 
This did not interrupt the good understanding 
which subsisted between them and the French, who 
were permitted to remain unmolested and even 
without remonstrance. This was probably owing 
to the friendly disposition of all the Indian tribes 
towards the French, and who were at the same time 
enimical to the Spaniards. But it was necessary 
that Spain should make an establishment of some 
kind, in order to give greater weight to her pre- 
tensions; and for this purpose, an artful expedient 
was resorted to. 

In those times, it was customary for missionaries 
of different nations, even when at war, to unite ami- 
cably for the purpose of propagating the christian 
religion amongst the Indians ; they were even some- 
times attended by the troops of either, while the es- 
tablishments formed with this view, were held sa- 
cred by all. But this pleasing trait in the inter- 
course of rival nations, was like every other good, 
lia})le to abuse, and to be perverted to the purpose 
of furthering designs of ambition and fraud. A 
Spanish priest of the name of Idalgo^ addressed a 



32 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

letter to M. La Motte, setting forth the advantages 
to the cause of Christianity, which might be expected 
from the establishment of a mission at the Assinais, 
to instruct the poor ignorant Indians in the divine 
truths of the gospel, and to lead forth these benight- 
ed creatures to light and life ; and in order that the 
praise of such a commendable undertaking, might 
be equally shared by both nations, he proposed 
that the French should join in forming the esta- 
blishment. La Motte easily saw through the de- 
sign of this, but relying on his own vigilance in 
counteracting it, and believing that by appearing to 
fall in with the scheme, he might derive other advan- 
tages, more than sufficient to counterbalance, par- 
ticularly the trade to Mexico, resolved to comply. 
Instead of entering into a correspondence with 
Idalgo on the subject, it was deemed more expedient 
to send an agent to Mexico. The enterprising St. 
Dennis, then commandant at Natchitoches, was en- 
trusted with this mission, and invested with the ne- 
cessary powers, to negociate a treaty, which would 
remove the obstacles in the way of a friendly inter- 
course between the French and the Spaniards. He 
arrived in Mexico in June 1715, and was as favor- 
ably received by the Spanish Vice-roy, as he could 
have wished, and wlio consented to the request of a 
free intercourse and trade by land, to the Spanish 
provinces, as soon as the mission at the Assinais 
should be establislicd. On the return of St. Dennis, 
liis arrangements were approved by the Governor 
of Louisiana, and he was enjoined to see them car- 
ried into effect. He returned to the Spanish fort, 
on the other side of the Rio Bravo, and putting him- 
self at the head of a body of Spaniards, conducted 
them in the spring of the year 1716; to the Assinais, 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. S3 

liaviiig prcA ioiisly assembled the chiefs of the dif- 
ferent nations, and persuaded them to permit these 
people to remain amoni^ them. Tliis was the first 
Spanisli settlement in the province of Texas. 

Alter accomplishing this, St. Dennis sat off a se- 
cond time for Mexico, witli a quantity of merchan- 
dize. The real designs of the Spaniards, now ma- 
nifested themselves. Instead of being permitted to 
dispose of his merchandize, lie was arrested as a 
smuggler and thrown into prison. He was after- 
wards permitted to go at large within cei'tain 
limits, but despairing of being released, he effected 
his escape, and arrived in Louisiana in 1719. The 
Spaniards in the meanwhile, had so far encroached 
at the Assinais, and were so much strengthened, as 
to become the masters. 

Pending these negociations, M. La Motte died, 
and M. Bienville, brotlier to D'Iberville, succeeded 
him. The abilities and experience of this gentle- 
man, rendered him well qualified for the station : he 
had been in the colony from its first settlement, and 
W' as distinguished for probity and prudence. 

In the meanwhile, Crosat, entirely disappointed 
in obtaining the profits which he had expected, gave 
up his privilege to the king in 1717, before the 
term of its duration had expired. The famous 
company of Law, which had at this time, nearly en- 
grossed the whole trade of France, undei' the name 
of " the company of the Indies," took possession 
of Louisiana, and appointed M. Bienville the go- 
vernor. He was ^velcomed at the Isle of Dauphin, 
on his return from France, w hither he had gone, by 
the deputies of twenty-five Indian nations. Tliis 
place had been the seat of government, but was 
soon after abandoned in consequence of the port 



.'54. VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

havingbeen closed by the sands thrown up during a 
tempest : and nearly all tJie settlers were removed 
to Beloxi. Tlie population at tliis period, consisted 
of seven hundred persons, and their whole stock, to 
four hundred head of cattle ; but they did not raise 
a su^ciency of provisions for their own sustenance. 
Crosat, had expended upwards of four hundred 
thousand livres, and the trade scarcely amounted 
to three. 

In 1719, war broke out between France and Spain, 
and put an end to the friendly intercourse which 
had hitlierto subsisted between the two colonies. 
Bienville, undertook the reduction of Pensacola, 
wiiich he effected with a party composed principally 
of Canadians, with a body of four hundred Indians, 
and the co-operation of three vessels of war. The 
fort surrendered without making resistance. The 
Spaniards after this, mortified at their loss, made 
formidable preparations for retiieving it : and at 
the same time, for the total destruction of the 
French colony. They retook Pensacola, but were 
repulsed in their attempt on the Isle of Dauphin. 
A French squadron, under M. Champlain, soon 
after made its appearance, and the Spanisl) fort was 
again besieged. The river Pedido, which was con- 
sidered the boundary line, and at which a small post 
had been maintained, was appointed as the place of 
rendezvous for the land force : and accordingly 
Bienville with the soldiers and volunteers of the 
company, joined the Indian allies at this place. 
They proceeded over land, and in conjunction with 
the fleet, the fort was soon reduced without blood- 
shed. Eighteen hundred prisoners fell into the 
hands of the French, with public property to a 
iar^e amount. After which the fortific atious were de- 



BOOK I. DISCOVEHY AND SETTLEMENT. 55 

stroyed, and the French retired to the Perdido. 
In the year 1721, peace was concluded hetween the 
two powei-s ; one of tlie articles of the treaty, was 
the restoration of Pensacola. 

Ahout this period, tlie settlements of the Beloxi, 
were ordered hy the council general to he removed 
to New-Orleans. During the time tlie company 
liad been in possession, tlie mother country, and 
the islands, had furnished four th(jiisand and forty- 
four settlers, also one hundred and fifty galley 
slaves, and several hundrer* females, taken from 
houses of correction.'^ I'his accession of ii^hahi- 
tants, without being properly provided for, and the 
greater pai^t of loose ajid v/orthless character, soon 
experienced every possible calamity. Such was 
the distress for the want of provisions, and tlie ne- 
cessaries of life, that many of the colonists, and 
even the troops, were obliged to take refuge in the 
neighbouring Lidian villages, where they received 
every mark of kindness and hospitality. How illy 
requited was this generosity, at a su!>se({uent pe- 
riod, when the French settlements had heen warmed 
into life and vigor ! The fate of the Natchez, can 
well attest the truth of this remark. Great dissen- 
tions at the same time prevailed amongst the mi- 
serable colonists, as if their inevitable misfortunes 
had not heen enough ; these dissentions, were in 
some measure fomented hy the English of Caro- 
lina, who were at the same time in the habit of 
stirring up such of the Indian nations, as were un- 
friendly. Fortunately for the French, the Cliac- 
tas, tlien, and still, the most powerful nation of 
Louisiana, as well as all the smaller tribes, on the 

* Stoddard. 



56 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

lower part of the Mississippi, and on the Mobile, 
were friendly. 

The year following, the colony obtained some 
supplies, and the disagreements of the. authorities, 
were somewhat appeased. To prevent a recur- 
rence of these evils for the future, it was resolved 
to distribute the colony in different places, selected 
as tlie most eligible for the views of the com- 
pany, and where subsistence might be obtain- 
ed with greater facility. The present flourish- 
ing settlement of Natchitoches, was then com- 
menced, in the neighbourhood of the post, establish- 
ed by St. Dennis. A settlement was formed neai* 
the Natchez, at S. Catharine, and on the Missis- 
sippi above and below New- Orleans, and the foun- 
dations of that city were laid. About this time, 
a body of French expelled the Spanish settlers from 
the Adaize, where they had formed a settlement. 
In the same year (1722) a fort was built by Ber^ 
nard de la Harp, at the village of the Caddoques, 
in the lat. 55, 55, which was called St. Louis de 
Carlorette. De la Harp wrote to the Spanish com- 
mandant, informing him of what he had done, and 
expressing a wish to cultivate a good understanding 
with him. In answer, he was required to withdraw 
from this post, itbeingwitliintheterritory of Spain; 
in reply, de la Harpe, persisted in the right of 
France to tlie province called Texasj, and declared 
his determination to defend the possession which he 
then had. Nothing further passed,* the Fi'ench 
remained in quiet possession until tlie country was 
transferred to Spain, a small settlement having been 
formed near this. A fruitless attempt had been 
made shortly before, to form a settlement on the 
bay of St. Jovseph ; and two equally so, the first 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 37 

umler tlie commaiid of Monsr. Beran.^er, the lat- 
ter under De la Harp, on the hay of St. Bernard. 

The French, of an ardent and enterprising cast 
of mind, had early turned their attention to the dis- 
covery of the country. Shortly after the estahlish- 
ments at Kaskaskia by La Salle, enterprising in- 
dividuals ascended the Mississippi, towards its 
source, and explored a good deal of the country on 
some of the principal rivers, which discharge them- 
selves into it. As early as 1683, they discovered 
some copper mines, about six hundred miles above 
the mouth of the Illinois, and some clays which were 
supposed valuable. In 1695, an establishment was 
attempted near these rivers, but which so much in- 
censed the Indians, that it was abandoned. It has 
already been mentioned, that many reports had pre- 
vailed at tliis early period, of the mineral riclies 
of this country. When Iberville was sent to colo- 
nize the Mississippi, there were sent in company 
with him several persons skilled in mineralogy, for 
the p'';'pose of exploring the country of the Illinois, 
whi ^^^ ime was about that time, bestowed generally 
to aiVTIie upper part of Louisiana. In 1702, an 
establishment was attempted, in order to facilitate 
this object, at the mouth of Blue river, lat. 44, 13. 
This also gave umbrage to the Indians ; the French, 
to avoid hostilities, returned to a small river, one 
hundred miles above the Ouisconsing. Here they 
built a fort, opened some copper mines, and also, 
obtained two thousand quintals of Jine clay. They 
were however, compelled to abandon this place also 
on account of the jealousies of the Indians. This 
put an end to the attempt of forming any settlement 
near the source of the Mississippi, or of working 

D 



38 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

and exploring mines in that quarter. They now 
attempted to ascend the Missouri, whose immense 
vohime of water, could not but convince them, that 
it was no less important than the Mississippi. They 
ascended to the Kansas river in 1705, where 
they were well received hy the Indians, and formed 
establishments ; but finding that they could not 
be kept up without much trouble, and no profit 
resulting, they were soon abandoned. Another 
expedition was undertaken, by the orders of Iber- 
ville, by De la Harp, from the fort which he 
had built, to the Arkansas across the country. 
The particulars of this exploring expedition, are 
related by himself in a manuscript, still pre- 
served in Louisiana. He examined the sources 
of the Washita, passed the higli mountains, which 
divide its waters from tlie Arkansas, and descended 
Ihat river to the Mississippi. He gives a tolerable 
idea of the country, but seems to be credulous, and 
some of liis accounts border on the marvellous. 

The settlements of the Illinoi;^, were fr^m the 
first, more flourishing than those on tiie 'ov' ^^ Mis- 
sissippi; having been formed principally Bf hardy 
Canadians, who were well acquainted with all the ne- 
cessary precautions against the difticulties of these 
establishments. Kaskaskia had become a consi- 
derable town, and a large fort, called Chartres, had 
been constructed on the bank of the Mississippi. 
Spain becoming jealous of this flourishing state of 
the Illinois, resolved to form a stronger settlement 
on the Missouri. A large body of troops it is re- 
lated, sat off from the Santa Fee, about the year 
1720, for this purpose. The first object of the 
Spaniards was to destroy the Missouris, a pow- 
erful Indian nation, then in close alliance with the 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 39 

French, and who resided on the river of that name, 
and near the Kansas. This nation heing then at 
war with the Panis, it wastlieir intention to engage 
them in the enterprise. Unfortunately the Spa- 
niards mistaking tlieir way, arrived at the village 
of the people whom they intended to destroy, but 
ignorant of their error, immediately made proposi- 
tions as to the Panis. The Indians concealing 
their surprise, requested time to deliberate; and 
liaving collected their warriors, fell on the Spa- 
niards in the middle of the night, and put tliem 
all to death, witli the exception of the Missionary, 
who effected his escape on horseback. To prevent 
similar attempts, M. de Bourgamont, was sent up 
the Missouri, and built a fort wliich he named 
fort Orleans, near the Kansas river. Tliis fort was 
destroyed about twenty years afterwards, and as 
all who were in it perished, it was never known 
by whom the deed was done. 

The affair of the Natchez, forms an important 
incident in the history of Louisiana. These people, 
for twenty years, had been the stedfast friends of 
the French, and in tlieir character, were exceptions 
to the general ferocity of the saA ages : indeed, from 
tlie account of these people, it seems, that there 
prevailed amongst them, a degree of civilization, 
much superior to what was generally met with 
in tlie American tribes. They had admitted 
the French into their villages, when in distress, 
and contributed to support them at fort Rosalie, at 
the Yazoo, and other places. These favors were 
returned with ingratitude, as soon as the colonists 
ceased to stand in need of their assistance ; they 
were compelled to bear the insults and oppressions, 
of ignorant and insolent commandants and soldiers. 



40 VIE\yS OF LOUISIANA. 

The temper of the Natchez, thus soured by ill 
usage, was raised to a high pitch of indignation, 
by the cruel treatment of one of the principal 
warriors, who happened to be indebted to a sol- 
dier, and had promised to pay in corn. On being 
required to discharge the debt, he excused him- 
self on the score of his corn not being yet ripe. 
The soldier, not satisfied with this, threatened to 
beat him ; the a\ arrior defied him, on which, the 
other raised the cry of murder, which brought the 
guard, who fired on the warrior, and gave him 
a mortal wound. This abominable outrage was 
followed by no punishment of the perpetrators, on 
tiie part of the commandant, who was himself very 
obnoxious. The Natchez flew to arms, and but for 
the exertions of an influential chief, the Stung ser* 
pent, they would have instantly attacked the colony. 
Peace was restored, and the past consigned to 
oblivion by the Natchez. This was not the case on 
the part of M. Bienville, who was apprehensive 
that the pacifications of the Indians, was only 
feigned, and that they were secretly meditating 
some treacherous attack. He determined to an- 
ticipate the blow, and so weaken them, as to put it 
out of their power to injure him, should they be so 
inclined. He suddenly made his appearance at 
fort Rosalie, With seven hundred men, fell upon the 
unsuspecting Natchez, put many of them to death, 
and demanded the head of one of their principal 
warriors, whom he denominated a mutinous chief. 

This step, proved as ill judged as it was wicked 
and cruel. The desire of revenge, seized more 
strongly upon their hearts, and they sat themselves 
to work in meditating the means of gratification. 
But the superiority of the French, required that 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 41 

they should observe secrecy and caution. Six years 
elapsed before they had matured tlieir plans : but 
the Indian, however volatile in other things, is not 
inconstant in the pursuit of revenge. It was but 
for a moment laid aside, when there appeared to be 
a probability, that a just punishment would be in- 
flicted on those, by whom they had been ill treated. 
A young French officer, named Dumont, had warmly 
taken their part, and succeeded in arraigning the 
commandant of fort Rosalie, M. Chopart, before M. 
Perrier, who administered the government in the 
absence of M. Bienville. This was a joyful event 
to the Natchez, to whom the commandant was parti- 
cularly obnoxious, as the author of their calamities. 
Unfortunately, on this occasion, injustice prevailed, 
M. Chopart, was reinstated in his command, and 
the young officer returned to France. 

On the return of the commandant, he renewed 
his oppressions with greater cruelty than before; 
his first act, was to order the Indians, to remove 
from the white apple village, their principal resi- 
dence, against which, they in vain remonstrated. 
Appealing to his cupidity, they prevailed upon him, 
to suffer them to remain for a few months, for 
wiiich indulgence, they agreed to pay a tribute in 
corn and fowls. They immediately sat about con- 
triving the means of revenge. The Chickasas, 
and other tribes, were invited to engage in ^ a 
general massacre of all the French in the colony : 
these were to rise on the same day, and attack the 
French settlements in their vicinity. The mode 
fallen upon, to insure a simultaneous assault with 
tribes more remote, was by leaving with each, a 
bundle of sticks, containing a cei^ain number, one 

2D 



42 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

of which was to he taken from the hundle each day, 
and on the day of the last rod, the massacre would 
begin. The plot was retarded, and in some mea- 
sure frustrated, hy the mother of the Sun, who was 
the principal chief of the Natchez ; from affection to 
the whites, or from displeasure, at not being at first 
entrusted with the secret, she withdrew a number 
of rods from the bundle, and thus hastened its exe- 
cution. The time appointed for this, was the deli- 
very of the tribute. While the French, entirely off 
their guard, were engaged in i*eceiving it, the war- 
riors suddenly fell upon them, put to death the 
commandant, and all the garrison, and the inha- 
bitants of the settlements ; sparing only some women 
and children, and the slaves. The settlements of 
tlie Yazoo and Washita, shared the same fate ; a 
few who escaped, carried the intelligence to New- 
Orleans, and saved the rest of the colony. The 
colonists w ere now on their guard, and the rising of 
the Indians was too late. The Chactas, came for- 
ward in tiieir defence, and to this tribe, the settle- 
ments on the Mobile, owed their preservation en- 
tirely. 

Perier prepared to take revenge. He marched 
to Natchez with his whole force, and seven hun- 
dred Chactas, and some Chickasas, who ranged 
themselves on the side of the French, after quar- 
relling with the Natchez, on account of their having 
prematurely begun the attack upon the settlements. 
He defeated tlie Natchez in a skirmish on his ap- 
proach to their town, where he found them shut up 
in two forts, constructed after their own manner; 
here they defended tliemselves with great obstinacy, 
holding out for more than a month, although seven 
pieces of cannon were brought against tJiem. This 



BOOK I. Discovery and settlement. 43 

delay, was principally caused by apprehensions for 
the prisoners in the possession of the besieged ; it 
was justly feared, that the Natchez would murder 
them, if driven to despair. The forts, at length, 
agreed to surrender, but on favorable terms ; on 
delivering up their prisoners, and giving hostages 
for their future good conduct. Tlie greater part of 
the nation some time afterwards, crossed tlie Mis- 
sissippi, and settled on a. branch of Red river. 

The Natchez were neither reconciled nor induced 
to relinquish their hostile designs. In 1731, it was 
found necessary to raise another army of whites 
and Indian auxiliaries, with the intention of putting 
an end for the future to all apprehensions from this 
troublesome nation. Under the command of M. 
Perier, this army ascended Red river, and after- 
wards Black river, its tributary stream, to the place 
where the Natchez had fortified themselves in the 
greatest force. The siege was commenced on the 
SOth of January ; the trench was opened and all 
the different works of the besiegers begun, and ad- 
vanced apace during the rest of the day, and the 
whole of the night. The day following, the mortars 
and all things necessary for tlie attack, were brought 
on shore. Some bombs were thrown,. which fell in 
the fort. The besieged made a sortie, killed a 
Frenchman and a negro, but were repulsed. On 
the 12th, bombs were thrown during the whole day 
but produced no great effect, and the besieged 
w ounded two soldiers. On the 24th, they hoisted a 
white flag ; M. Perier at the same time caused one 
to be hoisted at the head of a mast ; a shoi't time 
after, an Indian was seen advancing with a calumet 
in each hand. He brought proposals of peace, and 
offered on the part of his chief to return the pri- 



44 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

soners and negroes in their possession. Terms of 
any kind would not be attended to unless the chief 
came in person ; this the Indian declared could not 
take place, but observed to M. Perier, if he would 
advance to the corner of his entrenchment, the 
great chief would come to the end of his fort. The 
Indian was dismissed with the message to his chief, 
that if the prisoners and negroes were delivered up, 
the general would then declare his further determi- 
nation. These being brought and delivered to M. 
Perier, he declared that unless the great chief came 
to him in person, he would continue the siege, and 
deny all quai'ter. The chiefs finally agreed to sur- 
render, and with them the greater part of the peo- 
ple; the remainder who refused to give themselves 
up, found means during some very heavy rains to 
escape and join the rest of the nation. About two 
hundred fortified themselves some distance up the 
Red river, but were attacked and destroyed by St. 
Dennis. Those that fell into the hands of the 
French were disposed of as slaves : a thing very 
unusual in their conduct towards the Indians, which 
has been marked with a greater degree of kindness 
than that of any of the European nations, but 
which on this occasion, may be ascribed to the un- 
conquerable ennuty of these injured people. From 
that day the Natchez no longer existed as a nation. 
In this year, (1731) Louisiana, was restored by 
the company of the Indies to the king. The fa- 
mous Mississippi bubble had burst, and involved in 
ruin all that had been concerned in it. Its history is 
similar to other instances of popular delusion, ori- 
ginating in accident, or in the designs of artful 
men. Louisiana was represented as a paradise, its 
surface adorned with all the beauties of nature, and 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLE^VIENT. 45 

containing underneath, all the riches that could 
tempt human cupidity, Wliile tlie mania lasted, 
the colony derived considerable benefits from it; 
benefits whose effects continued long after to be felt. 
Large sums of money were expended, and men of 
the first respectability, came to see the fairy region; 
the number of books published on tlie subject of 
Louisiana, is truly surprising, but few of them, 
however, are deserving of much attention. The 
diappointment occasioned by the Mississippi scheme, 
was followed by disgust to the colony, but itliad by 
this time, acquired sufficient strength to stand alone. 
The settlements in upper Louisiana, or the Ilinois, 
of which we will speak in the next chapter, were by 
far the most flourishing in an agricultural point of 
view : those on the lower Mississippi, even as late 
as 1763, were far from being considerable. The 
settlements were to be found at New-Orleans, at 
the Natchez, on the Mobile and its branches, and 
at the Beloxi. The lumber trade with the West 
Indies, and thetrafic with the natives, togetlier with 
an inconsiderable export of tobacco, constituted the 
principal sources of wealth. The greatest draw- 
back on the prosperity of the colony, was the 
miserable practice of granting monopolies, which 
obliged the planters to dispose of their produce to 
the company, at such prices as it chose to fix. The 
shameful impositions practised by the monopo- 
lists, repressed all disposition to engage indus- 
triously in the cultivation of the earth, for what- 
ever surplus there might be, the gain would be the 
same. 

Charlevoix, has chosen to attribute this state of 
the colony, to the enmity of the English and Spa- 
niards ; but in reality the blame rested upon the 



46 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

French king;. The Spaniards, he says, <* did not 
act as openly as the English, against a colony 
at which they had taken great umbrage ; yet they 
had taken their measures more effectually to arrest 
its progress, and to prevent the formation of any 
new establishment. They liave in fact suc- 
ceeded even until now, (1736) in retaining us by 
the pursuit of a contemptible trade, between the 
stream which was neglected to be settled, (Missis- 
sippi) and Pensacola, on a sandy coast, (Beloxi) on 
an island (Daupliin) not better, and upon a river 
(Mobile) which although well enough to occupy, is 
yet not fitted for any plan of colonization. It must 
be confessed, that on this occasion, M. D'Iberville 
was not judicious, or that he had no time to carry 
his designs into execution." 



CHAP. II. 

fFar withthe Chickasas — Civil and Political history 
of Louisiana, down to the treaty of Ildephonso, 

THE French, had given to their American pos- 
sessions, the name of New France, which included 
Canada, the hikes, and all the valley of tlie Missis- 
sippi. On this river, and on all its branches, they 
had either established posts with a few settlers, or 
had sent Missionaries to the Indian villages. The 
Oiiio, was called La Belle Riviere, from its singu- 
lar beauty, but lost its name at the Wabash, being 
at first, regarded merely as a tributary of this ri\er. 
On the Wabash, the settlement of Vincennes was 
made much about the time of those at Kaskaskia 
and Cohokia. Alltlieir settlements in tliis quarter, 
were designated under the name of the Illinois, from 
a powerful tribe of Indians, who were found in pos- 
session. 

We have already seen, that shortly after the dis- 
covery of the Mississippi, a number of Canadian 
settlers were induced to take up their residence at 
this place, in a country and climate so much more 
pleasant, than that wliich they had left. A monastery 
of Jesuits, was established here, which succeeded 
in converting a number of the natives, to Christi- 
anity. I am credibly informed, that they had at 
one time, upwards of five hundred converts. It was 



48 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

not long, before the Kaskaskians, began to diminisk 
and degenerate, as it has always been found to be 
the case, in the intercourse of the natives with the 
whites, and to the Canadians they left the name, 
and proprietorship of their village. 

The name of the Illinois, was given to both sides 
of the river. It was this part of Louisiana, which 
furnished so many topics of glowing descriptions, to 
the French writers during the existence of Law's 
scheme. Its beautiful natural meadows, its pic- 
turesque scenery, its supposed wealth in minerals, 
served to captivate the minds of the French, and it 
came to be spoken of as a kind of paradise. The 
settlements of the Illinois, w^ere in a flourishing 
state, while the other parts of Louisiana were en- 
tirely the reverse. 

Some years after the war with the Natchez, Lou- 
isiana again experienced an Indian war. The 
English traders who had established themselves 
among the Chickasas, in order to prevent the 
French from interfering with their traffic, wei^ 
continually engaged in exciting the animosity of 
the Indians against them. This produced an open 
rupture, and M. Bienville, led a considerable force 
up the Mobile, for the purpose of attacking their 
principal fortification, but in this, he was repulsed 
with disgrace. A party, which marched from the 
Illinois, met with no better success. Determined 
not to renounce his design of humbling these formi- 
dable neighbours, and having received considerable 
reinforcements from France, he ascended the Mis- 
sissippi, to wliat is now called the Chickasa bluffs. 
His force was the largest that had ever appeared in 
this quarter. But in consequence of unnecessary 
delays, his supplies gradually failed, and his incon- 



w 



i 



BOOK r. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 49 

stant allies, began to desert him before he had ta- 
ken up his march against the Indian villages. He 
was, therefore, compelled to patch up a peace, on 
any tei-nis, and to return with very little honour. 

From the year 1740, until the commencement of 
the war between England and France in 1754, few 
events of importance occurred in Louisiana. The 
settlements had been gradually extending them- 
selves, and in some parts were already in a flour- 
ishing state ,• at all events, the difficulties insepara- 
ble from infant colonies,-'Avere all surmounted ; they 
were not only placed beyond the danger of want, 
but had already a respectable export of tobacco, 
cotton, indigo, peltry, hides, ship timber, 6cc.; 
and could purchase in return, many of the luxuries 
of life. The symptoms of the quarrel between Eng- 
land and France, which terminated so unfortu- 
nately for the latter, sliewed themselves about this 
time. As the colonies of each extended, differen- 
ces would naturally arise, respecting their bounda- 
ries, which from the first, had not been defined. 
Each claimed to an unlimited and extravagant ex- 
tent, and force alone could decide, where both were 
determined to stretch their pretensions as far as 
possible. The Indian nations were engaged in 
continual wars by the arts of the two rivals, while 
they were themselves at peace. This may be one 
cause of the rapid decrease of those tribes. The 
French, anticipating a struggle for the preserva- 
tion of tlicir American possessions, as early as the 
year 1749, strengtliened tliemsclves by fortifications 
on the lakes, on the Ohio, on the Wabash, in the 
Illinois, and other parts of tlie valley of the Missis- 
sippi. To this valley, they had the best right, if 
first discovery and earlier occupancy, could give it. 

E 



50 MEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

The British set up in opposition tlieir charters, 
in other words, they had called it theirs, and set 
about counteracting tlie measures taken by the 
French, to secure their possession. The Oliio com- 
pany was formed, for the purpose of trading with 
the Indians, but under the real intention of being^ 
used as apolitical engine. This contest of ambition^ 
between the nations across the Atlantic, necessarily 
involved the colonies ; the British colonists, were 
particularly exposed, as the French, from their pos- 
session of Canada, had a control over the Indians, 
and could set tliem on like wild beasts to murder 
the frontier settlei's. 

In the year 1753, the French had erected fortiii- 
cations at Erie, Niagara, and at the confluence of 
the Alieglieny and Monongohela, which was deemed ; 
a flagrant encroachment on the BritisJi territory. | 
It was at this period, that the great Washington, 
then a youth, commenced his noble career. Having 
discharged an arduous duty, in his mission to Erie, 
he soon after, performed a conspicuous part in the 
war wliich ensued. France at this time, pursued 
the same policy of instigating the Indians, tliatwas 
afterwards so well adopted by Great Britain, and 
the whole frontier from New England to South Ca- 
rolina, was exposed to their cruel ravages. 

The contest terminated most unfortunately for 
France, both in Europe and in America. Canada 
and its dependencies, were compelled to capitulate. 
The French fleets were defeated at Toulon, and in 
the Bay of Biscay, and the army of France totally 
routed at Minden. She sued for peace, but was 
baffled for a long time, by the artful policy of Pitt. 
One of the difiiculties which stood in the way of 
>9ettling their dispute, was the establishment of the 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 51 

eastern limits of Louisiana: the Englisli claimed 
the Ohio, and produced the capitulation ol" Canada, 
by the Governor M. Vandreuil, by which, it was 
included as a part of that province. An accommo- 
dation, being thus hopeless, France persuaded her 
cousin Spain, to enter into the celebrated family 
compact of 1761, by which, the two sovereigns 
stipulated to defend the possessions of each other, 
in w hatever part of the world they might be. The 
renewal of hostilities, was still more unfortunate 
for France ; and Spain, was made to bear no incon- 
siderable proportion; she lost Havana, the key 
of her American possession, and her commerce w^as 
greatly injured. France, w^as almost a bankrupt, 
without money, or credit, and consequently unable 
to make further resistance; she was therefore com- 
pelled to make peace upon any terms that might be 
oiFered to her. 

On the 3d of November, 1762, the preliminaries 
of peace, were signed at Fontainbleau between 
England, France and Spain. By this treaty, all 
of Louisiana east of tlie Mississippi, together with 
the Mobile, and all that the king of France possessed 
in that quarter, was ceded to Great Britain ; while 
Spain, in consideration of the restoration of the 
Havana, ceded her possessions in Florida. France 
had reserved to herself the island of Orleans, and 
western Louisiana, which by a secret treaty made 
on the same day, she ceded to Spain, in considera- 
tion of the sacrifices she had been compelled to make 
by entering into the family compact. Thus was 
France stripped of all her possessions on the conti- 
nent, which at one moment promised to rival those 
of England or Spain. The treaty was ratified at 
London, on the 10th of February, 1763. 



52 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA; 

111 the year 1764, Britain took possession of Flo- 
rida, of the French settlements on the Mobile> 
and on the Mississippi, from the Manchac to tlie 
Yazoos : but extinguishing the name of Louisiana,j 
and substituting that of West Florida. It ha^ 
been stated by some late writers, that she then mad6| 
the 31 deg. of latitude, and afterwards the Yazoc 
river, the boundary between her other colonies^ 
but I have not seen any authority for tJiis ; and in-* 
deed separated already by a vast wilderness, sue] 
a measure was unnecessary. This boundary was ' 
not thought of until afterwards, when settled by 
treaty. It was fuitlier stipulated, that Britain 
should have a right to the free navigation of the 
Mississippi to its mouth. 

The transfer of Western Louisiana, w as made 
known to the province in the same year, that Bri- 
tain took possession of Florida, and excited great 
discontent. The people were at first somewhat 
soothed by the belief, that the transfer had not been 
real, and would never be carried into operation, 
and contented themselves with sending a petition, or 
remonstrance, to France. But they were unde- 
ceived by the arrival of Don Uiloa, in 1766, with a 
detacliment of Spanish troops for the purpose of 
taking possession. Enraged by this disappoint- 
ment, they flew to arms, and compelled the Spa- 
niards to retire. Three years now passed away, 
before the attem])tto take possession was renewed, 
the province still continuing under tlie government 
of officers appointed by the king of France. In the 
mean time, they had become reconciled to the 
change of government, from conviction that it was 
inevitable and on the arrival of Oreilly, they sub- 
mitted peaceably. This did not satisfy^ their past 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 53 

conduct must be punislicd, so as to leave an impres- 
sion of terror upon their minds, which would secure 
their obedience in future. The step now taken by 
Oreillj, to whom the Louisianians have attached 
the name of bloody, was basely treacherous and 
unjust. He invited twelve of the principal inhabi- 
tants to an entertainment, and then barbarously mur- 
dered them.* Sucli detestable atrocity might in- 
spire terror, but could never be recollected but w ith 
feelings of hatred. Notwithstanding this shocking 
act, the subsequent conduct of the Spaniard, was 
favourable to the prosperity of the colony ; he 
sketched the form of tlie colonial government, which 
w as preserved with little alteration by his succes- 
sors, and he introduced many improvements. 

Nothing of moment, occurred to disturb the tran- 
quility of the colony, until tlie eventful struggle of 
the American states for independence. Spain was 
at first much embarrassed, what course to pursue. 
She had too much at stake in America, to encourage 
a revolt, which might return upon herself to plague 
lier ; and yet, she could not easily resist the tempta- 
tion of seizing this opportunity of regaining her 
possessions. Yielding to the solicitations of France, 
she took part with tlie United States. Towards 
the close of the year 1779, Galvez, the governor, a 
man of superior talents, and uncommon energy of 
mind, organized the militia, and with the assistance 
of a few regulars,took possession of Baton Rouge, 
and other posts on the river. The next year he 
succeeded in taking Mobile, and having received 
considerable reinforcements from Havana, pro- 
ceeded against Pensacola. This jdace, after a 

* The father of the present governor of Louisiana, was one of 
the number. \ J , -, r. 



54 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

siege of some months, ami considerable loss on both 
sides, was compelled to surrender. 

While the Spaniards were thus successfully pur- 
suing their conquests in Florida, tlie settlements of 
what was now called Upper Louisiana, were threa- 
tened with a formidable attack of British and Indian 
auxiliaries from Michilimackinac. They suddenly 
appeared before St. Louis, and massacred a num- 
ber of the inhabitants in its vicinity ; fortunately 
for those people. General Clark made his appear- 
ance, at this critical moment, at the head of a large 
force, on which the British suddenly retired, leaving 
their allies to shift for themselves, and who soon 
after dispersed. 

By the treaty of peace in 1783, between Great 
Britain and the United States, the Mississippi was 
fixed upon as the western boundary, from its source 
to the 31st degree of latitude, and along this line to 
the St. Mary, &c. the remainder of the British ter- 
ritory, was ceded to Spain, who accepted the ses- 
sion according to these boundaries. She still con- 
tinued in possession, however, of the country as 
high up the river as the Yazoo, and at the same 
time disputed the right of the United States to the 
navigation of the Mississippi. To the western 
country, the navigation was indispensible ; without 
it, they could have no market for their produce, 
Spain was probably actuated, by the desire of pro- 
ducing a separation of the western states, from the 
eastern, and thus render them dependent on her; 
there is little doubt, but that she was engaged in 
deep intrigue to bring this about. The two powers 
were several times on the point of appealing to 
arms, when the subjects of dispute were at last ad- 
justed by the treaty of amity and commerce of 17^95. 



BOOK I. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. SS 

By this treaty, tliree important points were gained; 
the Spaniards were to surrender the posts on the 
river, commissioners were to be appointed to run 
the line between the Floridas, and the United 
States, and the latter, were to have the right of 
deposit for their western produce, at the city of 
New Orleans. 

Mr. Ellicot the American commissioner, arrived 
at the Natchez in 1797, but was obliged to remain 
upwards of a year, before the Spaniards would en- 
ter upon the business for which he had been sent. 
Great discontents, in the meantime, pervaded the in- 
habitants, on account of the delay on the part of Spain 
in evacuating the country. It was not until the 
close of the following year that this was done, and 
then apparently with great reluctance. The run- 
ning the line, commenced about the same time. 
There is sufficient proof, that the obstacles thrown 
in the way of this business, originated on the part 
of Spain, from a belief, that our union could not 
hold long ; at this very moment, it was known that 
both the English and French, were intriguing to 
bring about a separation of the western states: this 
appears to have been a favourite idea with all our 
enemy, and never until the purchase of Louisiana^ 
did we rest in safety. 

This important event, as unexpected as it was 
glorious, at last occurred. During the presidency 
of Mr. Adams, it had been seriously in contempla- 
tion to wrest Louisiana from Spain by force of 
arms, but this, soon after the election of Mr. 
Jefferson, fortunately was rendered unnecessary. 
The colony was conditionally ceded to France in 

1800, and afterwards, the cession confirmed in 

1801. The French made preparations for taking 



56 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

possession of Louisiana, with a body of twenty-fire 
thousand men, but were prevented by the blockade 
of the fleet and army, in one of the ports of Hol- 
land, This occurrence, together with the state of 
French affairs at this moment, induced the repub- 
lic to cede Louisiana to the United States, by treaty 
of the 13th April 1803. Possession was delivered 
by the Spanish functionaries to M. Laussat, in 
November, and twenty days afterwards, by him to 
Governor Claiborne, and General Wilkinson, on 
the part of the United States. 

I have thus given a rapid outline of the history 
of Louisiana, until its transfer to the United States. 
It would not suit the plan of these sketches, to go 
more minutely into details, yet without some outline, 
my views of this interesting part of America, would 
have been very imperfect. 



/3 







CHAP. III. 

Boundaries — Importance of Louisiana* 

THE cursory view we have taken of the first 
settlement of Louisiana, will furnish some assistance 
in the discussion of a subject of no small difficulty and 
perplexity, t» wit: its boundaries. On this score 
it is feared, that serious contentions may one day 
arise between us and the two adjoining powers, 
Spain and England. The manner of settling the 
continent in the first instance, where all was vague 
and undefined, has given rise to these difficulties. 
Perhaps after all, it is of little moment; for the ac- 
cumulating flood of American population, which 
now rolls to the westward, will not be restrained by 
ideal lines drawn on the map of a wilderness. It 
will one day vspread over every plain between us and 
the Pacific, and will not stop before it touches the 
confines of the Mexican provinces. 

The first settlements of Louisiana, it will be re- 
collected, were on the Mobile and on the bay of St. 
Bernard. All the French writei's are agreed in 
fixing the Perdido to the east as the limits and the 
Rio del Norte, to the west. These boundaries may 
be seen in many ancient maps, both French and 
English, and they are besides, stated to be such in 
express terms by several writers. The data upon 
which we rely is as follows : 



53 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

1. The General Atlas of 1712; the English At- 
las of 1763; the Map of M. D'Anville of 1745; 
the Maps in the first edition of Postlethwaite on 
commerce; the Map of dii Pratz. 

2. The grant to Crosat by the king of France, 
where the S, W. and the eastern limits are defined. 
The manuscript of La Harp, found at Natchitoches. 
The work of Du Pratz, and the history of New 
France by Charlevoix. 

A dispute has already occurred between the 
United States and Spain, with respect to the eas- 
tern boundary, the latter denying that under the 
treaty of Ildephonso, any thing more was ceded 
than the western side of the Mississippi, together 
with the island of Orleans. The decision of this 
question, depends on the construction of the clause 
in the treaty by which the cession was made to 
France, and to which the United States are referred 
for a description of the limits of Louisiana. I have 
considered this question more at large, in another 
publication. The clause, and my interpretation of 
it, are as follows : 

<* Spain retrocedes the province or colony of Lou- 
isiana, with the same extent that it actually has in 
the hands of Spain, and that it had when France pos- 
sessed it, and such as it ought to be, after the trea- 
ties subsequently entered into between Spain and 
other states." 

1. In the same extent that it now has in the hands of 
Spain — for it was not in the power of Spain to re- 
store the province in its whole extent, inasmuch as 
a considerable part of it then appertained to the 
United States, obtained by conquest from Great 
Britain, and acceded to by Spain. 



BOOK I. BOUNDARIES— IMPORTANCE. ^9 

2. ^nd that it had when France possessed it — that 
is, all of Louisiana, then in the actual possession and 
control of Spain, hy whatsoever denomination 
then known ; and whether obtained by cession from 
France, or by conquest from Great Britain, is to- 
tally immaterial ; the only question is, did it belong 
to Louisiana when France possessed it ? Of this no 
doubt exists. 

3. And such as it ought to be, after the treaties sub- 
sequently entered into^ between Spain and other states 
— tliat is, Spain was not to be accountable for such 
parts or portions of Louisiana, as she had actually 
ceded, and wliich were at that moment beyond her 
control; as by the treaty of 1795, she had re- 
nounced in favour of the United States, all the 
country north of the 31st degree of latitude. This 
treaty, together with that of 1783, and the one of 
the same year with Great Britain, are the only 
treaties which relate to the boundaries of the pro- 
vince, subsequent to the cession to Spain of 1762 : 
but they relate to that part of it called by tlie Eng- 
lish West Florida, and not to Louisiana as Spain 
would wish to restrict it. The line of the 31st de- 
gree, is a considerable distance above the Iberville, 
and no subsequent treaties have any relation to this 
boundary. 

There can be very little doubt, that it was the in- 
tention of Napoleon, to possess this country in its 
most advantageous shape; and without both sides 
of the river from the 31st degree, together with the 
lakes, and the Mobile, the country would be inca- 
pable of defence. The clause appears to have been 
penned with great caution by Talleyrand. The 
section between East Florida and the Mississippi, 
had been erected into a separate government, and 



60 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

had it not been stipulated, that France was to re- 
possess, in the same extent as she had held previous 
to the year 1762, a diiference of opinion in the con 
struction of the treaty, would unavoidably have 
arisen much more difficult to reconcile. Spain 
might then have said with more justice, than she 
does at present: " true. West Florida was a part of 
Louisiana, but having been severed by conquest, it is 
no longer so ; the separation, or dismemberment was 
the act of France herself, and from the party thus 
possessing, Spain obtained it by conquest, it has 
therefore ceased to have the least connexion with 
Louisiana." All this difficulty is obviated by re- 
ferring to a date anterior to 1762 ; and unless done 
with this view, such a reference would have been an 
absurdity. And again, had it not been stipulated, 
that Louisiana -was ceded in the extent then held by 
Spain, it might have been argued, that Spain had 
undertaken to restore tlie province to France entirep 
and whole as when held by France. 

But where the necessity of all this guarded cau- 
tion in the stipulations, if no more was intended to 
be ceded than the western side of the Mississippi, 
with the island of Orleans, or western Louisiana, 
as it had been ceded to Spain. Every otlier word 
were not merely useless, but totally irrevelant. It was 
certainly in the power of Spain to restore any part 
of ancient Louisiana, which might happen to be in 
her power, no matter by what means she came by 
it, and unless her words mean this, they mean no- 
thing. 

Shortly after taking possesion of Louisiana, we 
had a dispute with Spain respecting the boundary 
between us and their internal provinces, and which 
was very near being settled by an appeal to arms. 



BOOK r. BOUNDARIES— IMPORT ANCK. ^ 

General Wilkinson was encamped on one side of 
the Sabine, and Cordero on the others it was finally 
stipulated that this river, should be tlie line until 
a differnt one could be agreed upon by their respec- 
tive governments. It is said, that under the French 
government the Rio Hondo, on this side of the Sa- 
bine, had been regarded as a boundary for civil 
purposes between the nearest Spanish and French 
settlements. 

With respect to the limits of Louisiana to the 
north west, they must be fixed by a stipulation with 
Great Britain, for there is nothing by which they 
can be determined. A continuation of the line 
from the head of tlie Lake of the Woods, to the Mis- 
souri mountains, might be a fair proposition, al- 
though even in tliis case, we should have to yield 
some of the waters which discharge themselves into 
the Missouri 

To the westward, no limits were ever assigned by 
the French while they possessed Louisiana, but it 
was considered as including, at least, all the coun- 
try whose streams, either directly or indirectly dis- 
cliargcd themselves into the Mississippi. Our ge- 
ographers, have boldly claimed to the Pacific ; we 
are certainly the first white people who explored 
the western region near the sources of the Missouri 
and of the Columbia, and who descended tliis latter 
river to the sea ; we have filled up on the map from 
our discoveries, what was before no better known 
than the interior of Africa. How far this right of d is- 
covery may carry us, I will not take upon me to say; 
I am no advocate for a right which stands so badly 
supported by reason, in the case of other nations, 
and consistency forbids that I should claim it m 
favour of my own country. This is certain how- 

v 



62 VIEWS OF. LOUISIANA. 

ever, that our riglit sucli as it is, is much bettei' 
supported than that of any other nation, by reason 
of our exploring expeditions, and our establish- 
ments for trading with the Indians. 

If we adopt tlie boundaries just laid down, Louis- 
iana will be found to constitute two thirds of the 
whole territory of the United States : and furnisher 
ample space for an empire as great as that of Rus- 
sia or China, It is becoming a favorite amusement 
with the Americans to speculate on their future 
magnificent destiny ; it is difficult to say whether 
this ought to be encouraged or not; on the one 
hand, it may generate national vanity, similar to 
that of the descendants of an ancestry once power- 
ful; and the only difference is, that as they boast 
o what they have been, we boast of what we will be. 
On the other hand, there is a kind of national pride, 
of which we stand in need, to render tliat a natural 
which is yet an artificial bond. Let us however, 
be modest in our anticipations of events, which 
are in the hands of the Great Dispenser of all good 
and who often visits the vain glorious with better 
disappointments. 

In estimating the importance of this division of 
the American empire, we should be greatly de- 
ceived, if we merely take into view its comparative 
Ideographical extent. Constituting the central, or 
interior part of North America, much of it is at too 
remote a distance from the Ocean, to have an easy 
and advantageous intercourse with the rest of the 
world. Much of the country west of the Mississip- 
pi, when compared to the eastern section of the 
valley, and to the states on the shores of the Atlan- 
tic, may be considered as badly watered, and devoid 
pf that facility of intercourse by means of navigable 



BOOK I. BOUNDARIES— IMPORTANCE. 6,3 

rivers, witli which they are so happily supplied. 
I am to be understood as speaking of Louisiana in 
general ; the two important sections of it, the ter- 
ritory of Missouri, and the state of Louisiana, are 
not exceeded, either in point of climate or soil, 
by any portions of equal magnitude on tlie conti- 
nent, and may be justly regarded as among tlie 
most interesting parts of our empire. But when 
we look upon the chart of Louisiana, we will disco- 
ver that these form but a small proportion of its 
extensive surface. 

Were I to enumerate all the political advantages 
arising from the acquisition of Louisiana, I could 
fill a volume. To say the least of it, it may be re- 
garded as the most providential occurrences in our 
history. Had this paii; of America, continued in 
the hands of any other state, we should have inevi- 
tably been drawn into bloody and expensive wars, 
or what was more to be dreaded, a separation of the 
western states would have taken place. The free 
navigation of the Mississippi, to us indispensable, 
would ever have been liable to interruptions, while 
Louisiana remained in the hands of any European 
nation. Who would deposit the key of his house, 
in the hands of his enemy ? Sooner or later, it must 
have been ours, or we must have told the western 
states to shift for themselves. 

Politicians have long disputed the question, whe- 
ther an extensive territory is an injury or an advan- 
tage to the stability of a republic. It will probably 
be decided by the experiment in which we are now en- 
gaged. I will venture to suggest a thought. In a na- 
tion circumscribed to narrow territorial limits, there 
is much to be apprehended from the momentary bias 
af opinion ; the permanent interests^ may not be 



64 \^EWS OF LOUISIANA. 

sufficiently diversified, and should there be found to 
exist two great parties, designated by local situation, 
who should believe their interests entirely opposed, 
the artificial union would soon be at an end. But 
over the vast surface of the United States, notwith- 
standing those rapid and powerful conductors of pub- 
tic feeling or intelligence, the newspapers, there is no 
danger of rousing the people to that pitch of phrenzy 
and madness, which might be dangerous in a state 
confined to narrow^er bounds. Besides, the northern 
and southern interests, of which so much was said 
during the late war, are counterbalanced by a third, 
whose interest is connected with both. The wes- 
tern states, are devoted to agriculture, but will al- 
ways have the most intimate relations with the com- 
mercial cities to the east of the mountains, and will 
be in a great measure dependant on them for the con- 
veniences and luxuries of life. 

The seciu'ity obtained for our western states and 
territories, against the numerous tribes of savages 
who would be at the disposal of any nation holding 
Louisiana, may be ranked as no inconsiderable ad- 
vantage gained in the acquisition ; while our vicinity 
to the Mexican provinces, w ill enable us to carry on 
a trade, which, if permitted to be free, must in a 
short time become of incalculable value. It is ar- 
dently to be wished, that these people, during their 
present struggle, may accomplish their indepen- 
dence, and cast off the yoke of the foreign govern- 
ment, Avhich has hitherto ruled them as it w^ere by 
the spells of Circe, by using every art to brutify 
their minds in ignorance and debasement. Could 
these unfortunate men be regenerated, by the en- 
nobling genius of liberty, the northern continent would 
be exclusively possessed by two great nations, united 



BOOK I. BOUNDARIES—IMPORTANCE. 65 

in friendship by harmonizing interests, and sympa- 
thy of government; lovers of peace, and without 
motive for war. 



r2 



CHAP. IV. 

General description — Face of the country beyond the 
settlements — capacity for the reception of popula- 
tion — curious appearances, 

THIS extensive portion of North America, Las 
usually been described from the inconsiderable part 
which is occupied by the settlements, as though it 
were confined to the immediate borders of the Mis- 
sissippi, as Egypt is to those of tlie Nile. By some, 
it is I'epresented in general description, as a low, flat 
region, abounding in swamps and subject to inunda- 
tion : which is the same thing as if the Netherlands 
should furnish a description for all the rest of Eu- 
I'ope. Others speak of Louisiana as one vast forest 
or wilderness : 

** Missouri marches through his world of woods." — Barlow. 

which is far from being the case, for excepting on 
the banks of this river, and that not more than one 
half its course, the country through which it passes, 
is deplorably deficient in woods. If then, we are to 
desciibe Louisiana, not from a small district, impor- 
tant because already the seat of population, but from 
the appearance of the whole, combined in a general 
view, we should say, that it is an extensive region of 
©pen plains and meadows, interspersed with bai'e un- 
tUlable hills, and with the exception of some fertile 
tracts ia the vicinity of the great rivers by which it xs 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. ^T* 

traversed, resembling the grassy steppes of Tartary 
or the Saharas of Africa, but without the numerous 
morasses and dull uniformity of the one, or the dreary 
stenlity of the other. The fertile tracts are chiefly 
to be found, in the narrow vaflies of the gi*eat rivers 
Missouri, Mississippi, Arkansas, Red River, and 
some of their principal tributaries; the two largest 
bodies of fertile soil are the delta of the Mississippi, 
which is much interspersed with lakes, marshes, and 
sunken lands, that will require ages to reclaim, 
and the territory of the Missouri, as limited by the 
boundaries lately agreed on with the Indians, which 
bears a strong resemblance to the West Tennessee in 
some of its features. In order to give a more clear 
and distinct idea of the country which I have under- 
taken to describe, I will consider it under three di- 
visions ,• 

1. The regions beyond the settlements. 

2. The territory of the Missouri. 

3. The state of Louisiana. 

The present chapter will be taken up in giving 
some general description of the first ; the chapter 
following it, M'ill detail what relates generally to all, 
and a more minute account will be given of the Mis- 
souri territory, and the state of Louisiana, in the two 
last books. I am convinced that nothing contributes 
so much to brevity, as Avell as to perspicuity, as the 
©bservance of order and method. My intention is 
not to write a book of travels that may amuse, but to 
give the result of my observations in the most com- 
penduous form, in order that it may be useful. 

Volney has denominated a valley^ the space which 
lies between the Alleghanies and the great western 
mountains, and drained by the Mississippi, and its 
Mbtttary streams. But it is to be observed, that the 



58 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

western section of this valley, taking the great river 
as the centre, is more than twice the magnitude of the 
eastern, that its rivers are on a larger scale, and 
that the mountains which give rise to them, are more 
considerable than the AUeghanies. 

The great western chain, has not received any fix- 
ed and determinate appellation ; by Lewis and Clark, 
the term Rocky mountains has been applied, by Mr. 
M'Kensie, the Chippowyan, and by Mr. Darby in his 
excellent treaties, the Missouri mountains. The last 
name appears to me the best, particularly as it cor- 
responcls with that of the Alleghenies, which give 
rise to the Ohio, and the great rivers which flow 
from tlie opposite side of the valley. They are with- 
out doubt, a prolongation of the chain of the Anna- 
huac, or Andes of South America, their course nearly 
north and south. From these mountains, there is an 
inclined plane or slope, to the middle of the valley, 
with an elevation to the north, and an opposite de- 
pression, so as to be admirably disposed by the hand 
of nature, to afford a uniform direction to all the 
streams which pass over it, and flow to the Missis- 
sippi. The Missouri mountains, protrude several 
secondary ranges or spurs, of considerable elevation, 
which separates the waters of the Arkansas from the 
Missouri, those of the Arkansas from Red river, and 
of the latter river, from the Rio del Norte; the last 
of these spurs, called by the Spaniards the Cordille- 
ras, are much the most considerable of the seconda- 
ry ridges. The tributaries of the rivers just men- 
tioned, are again separated by other hills or moun- 
tains, of an elevation little inferior to many parts of 
the AUeghanies ; so that, although we have called 
the country drained by the Mississippi a valley, this 
is only to be understood with relation to the two 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. 69 

great ranges of mountains by which it is enclosed. 
I have very little doubt, but that the geologist will be 
able to trace a perfect connexion between all tlie 
spurs, ridges, and dependencies which traverse this 
part of the continent. A remarkable feature in 
North America, is this regularity, which would seem 
to show, that it has undergone fewer changes, since 
the creation, than any other part of the globe ; we 
discover but few of those proofs of the earth having 
been jumbled into a second chaos by some mighty 
convulsion. The long chain of hills, called by hun- 
ters the Black mountains, and which separate the 
Missouri from the Arkansas, project others which 
divide the streams that fall into the Missouri, and 
even those of the Mississippi ; the hills of the white 
river country, and towards the heads of the Mara- 
mek and the St. Francis, so abundant in minerals, 
are evidently dependencies of those mountains. The 
ruggid hills, or more properly mountains, about the 
heads of the Washita, are doubtless branches of the 
Cordilleras, in which the Red river takes its rise. 
The Missouri mountains, although on a much lar- 
ger scale than the Alleghanies, are no where as much 
elevated as those of South America; the highest 
point (and which may be considered as the table 
land of North America) according to Pike, is in la- 
titude 4 1 degrees ; from these immense peaks cover- 
ed with perennial snoAVs, the greatest rivers of the 
continent take their rise, to wit, the Colorado of 
California, a branch of the Columbia, Rio del Norte, 
the Arkansas, the Platte, the Yellow Stone, and the 
Missouri. 

A remarkable feature in this western side of the 
great valley, is its deficiency of wood, while the op- 
posite, (with the exception of some parts on the 



7& VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

north side of the Ohio, where the woods have been 
burnt^) is a close and deep forest. The woods con- 
tinue for a short distance up the Mississippi before 
they disappear, and the grassy plains begin. The 
banks of the Missouri are clothed with luxuriant fo- 
rest trees for three or four hundred miles, after 
which, they gradually become bare, and the trees 
diminish in size; at first we find thin groves of the 
kind of poplar called cotton wood, but of a diminu- 
tive growth, intermixed with willows ; next the same 
tree, reduced to half its height, and resembling an 
orchard tree ; after this, a thin border of shrubbeiy is 
almost the only ornament of the margin of the river. 
The same thing may be said of the Arkansas and 
Red river. 

Taking the distance to the mountains to be about 
nine hundred miles, of the first two hundred the lar- 
ger proportion on the Missouri and its waters, is well 
adaptecl to agricultural settlements, its soil and con- 
veniences are equal if not superior to those of Ten- 
nessee or Illinois ; this tract will include the greater 
part of the White and Osage rivers, the lower Mis- 
souri, and for at least one hundred and fifty miles 
north of this last river. The proportion of wood 
gradually lessens to the west, and still more to the 
north, with the addition that the lands become of an 
inferior quality. For the next three hundred miles, 
the country will scarcely admit of compact settle- 
ments of any great extent ; the wooded parts, form 
trifling exceptions to its general surface, and are 
never met with but on the margin of the rivers. We 
may safely lay it down, that after the first two hun- 
dred miles, no trees are found on the uplands, save 
stinted pines or cedars; the rest of the country con- 
sists of open plains of vast magnitude, stretching be- 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, 8cc. 71 

yond the boundary of the eye, and checqiiered by 
numerous waving ridges, which enable the traTeller 
to see his long and weaiysome Journey of several 
days before him. Yet, it does not seem to me, that 
the soil of this tract, is any wliere absolutely impro- 
ductive ; it is uniformly covered with herbage, though 
not long and luxuriant like that of the plains nearer 
the centre of the valley ; it is short and close, but 
more nutricious to the wild herds, than the coarse 
grass of the common prairie. This tract, has not 
the dreary barrenness described by Johnson in his 
tour to the Hebrides ; the green cai'pet which covers, 
and tlie beautiful shrubberies which adorn it, affoi-d 
iclief to the eye. But again, it is very doubtful 
whether trees could be cultivated ; for I observed 
that the trees which by accident are permitted to 
grow, are but dwarfs ; the oak for instance, is not 
larger than an orchard ti'ee, the plumb is nothing 
more than a shrub, in some places not exceeding a 
currant bush. There are, however, scattered over 
the immense waste, a number of spots which greatly 
surpass in beauty any thing I have ever seen to the 
east of the Mississippi. But there are others again, 
barren in the extreme, producing nothing in the best 
soil but by sop and the prickly pear. The next four 
hundred miles, stretching to the mountains, partake 
of the same character with tlie last, excepting that it 
is still more barren and ruggid, more deficient in wa- 
ter, and the spots capable of receiving settlements, so 
distant from each other, that great difficulties will be 
encountered by those who may think of living there. 
An exception is, however to be made in favor of the 
country about the sources of the principal rivers, 
which rise in the Missouri mountains ; for some dis- 
tance down these rivers it is much better suited to 



T2 VTRWS OP LOinSIANV. 

Hottlomonts tliau the parts which 1 have ju«t dc- ll 
sciihod ; ahonl Iho heads of the Missouri, the Yellow ' 
Stone, ll»e IMatte, the Arkansas, ^.e. setthiiients 
iniujht he rormed, hut imiortunateIy these are too re- 
mote. 

1 have descrihed tlie second tract watered hy tlio 
Missouri, as a specimen of tliat whicli lies west of 
tlie Mississippi, and soutli oftlie north west chain (►!' 
lakes. The country south of the Arkansas, that on 
Hed river, and tlie greater part of the province of 
Texas, have similar leatures. Thus it a[)pears, 
ihat with the exception of a helt of one hundred and 
(ifty, or two humlred niiles in width, almost, stretch- 
in,«; iVom the Missouri, in a line |)arallel with the 
course of the Mississipi)i, across the Arkansas, and 
Red river to the Sahine, ahout tw ice the territoi-y of 
New-Ym-k, hut not a tenth part, of the western sec- 
tion of the valley, the i)ro\ ince of Louisiana is little 
hetier than a harren waste, and that the eastern side 
will always contain a uiuch ij;reater po|)ulati(m. 

From what has heen said, it will he seen that the 
pi'rvailiui; idea, ami with whicli we have s(» nmcli 
ilattcred ourselves, of these western rei;;ions, heing 
(ike the rest of the llnited States, susceptihle of cul- 
tivation, and atfordiui;* endless outlets to settlements, 
is cert'iinly erroneous. The nations will continue to 
wander over those plains, and the wild animals, the 
elk, the hulfaloe, will Ion;;* l)e found there ; for until 
our country heconu's surcharged with po])ulati(m, 
there is scan ely any prohahility of settlers ventur- 
ing; fai* into these reiijions. A ditferent mode of life, ha- 
bits alto!i»;etlier new , would have to he atlopted. The 
settlements would necessarily he strunji:^ aloni; the 
water courses at such distances IVomeach otIuM-, that 
they could not protect themselves from the wander- 



(iOOK I f.l.NIJLM. DESCUIPTrON, IkC. XI 

ill!;; ti'il)(\s, ai IciiHt, I hoy would hv much Imrrasscd 
by llicni, or they would hccomc waiidcr'iii^* trihrs 
tliciUHcivcs. I'lio disl:iii('('< iVoni iiiarkct, :uid tlio 
dillicidlirs of lr;iiiHp(n't;dioii, would lender llio ;i,iiji'i- 
ndliirjd produce, at, IcasI some distaiiee west o\' ilio 
Mississip|)i, oC lillle or no value. Yef, I am con- 
xiriced, IIkH, were i< liol, iiireHJcd l»y huliaiiH, lliere 
Would be iu:uiy small p;i'oups of selllei's seall<'i'e(I 
ilirou;;!) it, or the iuhabitiiids like thosir td' the, iii> 
tei'iial proviueeH ol* m'W Spain, miijijht, betake tjieni- 
Helves altogether to theshephei'd life, and drive their 
lierds lo the best, pasturage and most, abundant, wa- 
ters, accordinii,- t,o the ( haniijes (d'tlie seas(ms, ^riiirt 
western re/.fion, il is cert nin, can never become ap;- 
) icultui'al ; bu^ it is in many respeds hi?;hly favora- 
ble for tiie midt iplication of iloeks and herds, ^i'hoso 
flelij!;htii(l spots \vhe»-e the beauty and variety of the 
landseajK', mi.i;ht clialleni^-e the fancy of tin' poet, in- 
vite to the iKistorjil life. Ilow admirably adaptird, 
fo the iid,erestini^ little animal the sheep, are thosc 
clean sjnooth meadows, (da suiface so infinitely va- 
ried by hill and dale, c(»v<'r*ed with a shoi't sweet 
ii,i'ass, int,ermi.\ed with tliousands (d* the most beauti- 
ful lloweis, nndefoiMued by a sin,t!;le weed. 

I confess, that to me, nature never wcn-e an aspect 
so lovely as on the lonely plains of the west. From 
their dry and imsiieltcred surlare, no damp and un- 
wholesome vapors rise to lesscMi the elasticity of 
the air, or dim the brilliaid; blue of the heavens. 8u 
Iranspar-ent is the atmosphere, tliat a sli^'ht snndic 
ran he disceiN.c I at t he distaru c of many mih s, vs hich 
curiously exercises tiie caution and Map;a( ity (d* the 
fearful sava,u;e, ever on the watch t(> destroy, or to 
avoid destruction. And then, that Hui)lime immensi- 
1y which siirrounds us; the sea in motion is a sub- 
a 



n \1EWS OF LOUISIANA., 

lime object, but not to be compared to the varied 
scenes which here present themselves, and over 
wliich, the body as well as the imagination, is free to 
expatiate. The beams of the sun, appeared to me, to 
have less fierceness, or perliaps this might be owing 
to the cool breezes which continually fan the air, 
bringing upon their wings the odoui's of millions of 
flowers. The mind appears to receive a proportion- fti 
ate elevation, when we are thus lifted up so much « 
higher than the centre of the valley. Tliere was to 
me something like the fables of fairy land, in pass- • 
hig over a country where for hundreds of miles I saw f | 
no inhabitants but the buffaloe, deer, tlie elk, and 
antelope : I have called it the Paradis a of IIun- 
TERS, for to them it is indeed a paradise. There 
are, however, some important drawbacks on tlie ad- 
vantages of this country, even considered as a pasto- 
ral district. To the north of the Missouri, rains ara 
extremely rare, but when they are set in, pour down 
in torrents, while to the south their place is chiefly 
supplied by heavy dews. In the di*y season, which 
is from the month of June until the latter end of Sep- 
tember, at a distance iVom the great livers, water is 
every where exceedingly scarce. The buffaloe at 
this time, leaves the plain and seeks the rivers, and 
the Indians in their excursions to any considerable 
fUstance, are obliged to shape their courses by some 
known pond, and to carry besides a quantity of wa- 
ter in bladders. It is possible, that v/ells might be 
sunk, but it is certain, that at this season one may 
travel for days without finding a drop of water; one 
may fi'equently pass the beds of laige livers which 
have disappeared in the sands, but after rains or on 
the melting of tlie snows, unpassiblc torrents are seen 
to fill their channels, and to I'oll down in turbid and 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, kc. .2^, 

frightful floods. Whether the distance of this coiu^ 
try from the sea, may be considered as the reason of 
its not being so well supplied with water, together 
with the great length of the courses of the rivers, I 
will leave to be determined by those who have leisurCe 

Having trespassed thus far on the patience of the 
reader, I will bring these remarks to a conclusion 
hy noting some particulars of the climate. Spring 
opens about the last of April, and vegetation is in 
considerable forwardness by the middle of May. 
Such fruits as the coimtry affords, principally ber- 
ries, sand cheriies and currants, do not ripen be- 
fore the latter end of July; I found strawberries 
about the fourth, near the Mandan villages. Plumbs 
ripen about the last of August, and vegetation about 
this time, begins to decay. The winter sets in the 
beginning of October, but tlicre is frequently frost 
in August and September. The cold is excessive, 
during the winter; there are frequent north west 
storms, which continue for several days, and ren- 
der it impossible for any but Indians, to stir out 
without danger of freezing. These observations, 
apply chiefly to the country on the Missouri and its 
waters, above latitude ■'^1> degrees, but are, of course, 
to be taken w4th considerable allowance as to the 
. more southern latitudes of the Arkansas and Red ri- 
ver. To the plains between these two rivers, the 
vast herds of bufi'aloe and deer cliiefly retire, during 
winter ; it would otherwise be almost impossible for 
them to subsist. 

A great proportion of the country watered by the 
Missouri and its branches, appears to have under- 
gone some wonderful change, the causes of wiiich 
are not easily ascei'tained ; tlie effects of lire, liow- 
ever, arc in many places discernable, I have seen 



76 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

high hanks of clay, burnt almost to the consistency 
4>f bricks ; near the Eoncas village, about nine hun-j 
dred miles up the river, I saw v>^hat is called th«| 
towei', a steep hill of one hundred and fifty feet in-*^ 
height, rising almost to a point, and five or six hun- 
dred in circumference, which is so hard as to be hiii 
little affected by the washing of the rains. Huge 
masses of pumice, are also found in these places, 
and frequently in the high bluffs of the river bank. 
These appearances, have been attributed to the ex- 
istence of volcanoes on the Missouri, but the ab- 
sence of every other volcanic appearance, renders it 
improbable : they are much more likely to be the ef- 
fects of coal banks continuing a long time on fire. 
I am well satisfied, that this fossil abounds in every 
part of the great valley of the Mississippi, above the 
recent alluvions. Between the Poncas village and 
the Aikansas, there is a most dreary part of the ri- 
ver, for at least fifty miles, where the bluffs shut in 
to the waters edge, and wear a black dismal appear- 
ance, witliout the slightest vegetation, as if the sur- 
face of the earth had been burnt to a crust. On 
close examination, this burnt earth appeared to con- 
tain from its weight, a portion of some metal, proba^ 
bly iron. 

But by far the most remarkable changes in its sur- 
face, have been caused by a more gentle element, to 
wit, by water. Many of the river hills present the 
appearance of heaps of clay, great quantities of 
which, on the melting of the snows, and after heavy 
rains, are precipitated and carried off to the princi- 
pal stream. This clay, is of a gray color extremely 
tenacious, being mixed with a large proportion of 
calcarious earth; the incumbent soil having been 
first caiTied away, the rock on which it reposed » 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, kc. 77 

was laid bare to the frost and sun, and perhaps af- 
fected by the burning of coal banks, it gra(lually 
crumbled and united with the clay. In taking up a 
handfuU, one may pick out gypsum (sulphat of lime) 
in numerous small fragments. Near these places, 
we also find an abundance of glaubers salt, (sulphat 
of soda) together with common salt, oozing with 
the water out of the ground, and crystalized on the 
surface. A remarkable fact, which I had frequent 
occasion to witness, is the appearance on these heaps 
of clay, of the remains of trees, in a state of petri- 
faction, and some of enormous size: there are not 
only numerous fragments scattered about, but the 
stumps yet standing, to the height of five or six feet, 
and completely turned to stone. Near the Man- 
dan villages. I traced the trunk and branches 
of a large tree, a considerable portion of which, had 
undergone petrifaction where it had fallen ; what ren- 
ders this the more extraordinary, is that even on the 
richest alluvion the trees are of a very slender 
growth, and on the upland, the strongest vegetation 
that any where occurs, is nothing more than some 
vStinted shrubs. 

From these facts it would appear, that the Mis- 
souri has not always brought down in its channel, 
that astonishing quantity of earth, which it does at 
the present day. Other causes, as in Tartary, might 
operate to prevent the growth of Avoods in the grea- 
ter part of the western region ; but something of a 
different kind, must have effected a change in tliis 
country, wliich apparently was once covered Avith 
trees. What immense quantities of the earth must 
have been carried off, to form the great alluvions of 
the Mississippi, by means of tlie Arkansas, Red ri- 
ver, and chiefly from the Missouri, not to mention 
G 2 



78 VIEW OF LOUISIANA. 

the vast quantities lost in the gulf of Mexico ! The 
result of a calculation would be curious. The proofs 
of the loss which this country has sustained, are very 
evident in the neighborhood of nearly all the rivers 
which discharge themselves into the Missouri, above 
the Platte. Some of the appearances where the earth 
has been thus carried away, may rank among our 
greatest curiosities. The traveller on entering a 
plain, is deceived at the first glance, by what appears 
to be the ruins of some great city; he sees rows ot 
houses stretching for several miles, along apparently 
regular streets. There seems to be all the symmetry 
and order of a town built on a magnificent plan, and 
the occasional deviations from this plan, in imagina- 
tion represent palaces, temples, or structures stand- 
ing detached from the rest. These appearances are 
raused, by the washing away of the earth and less 
durable substances, while the veins of stone which 
pervade the mass, continue undecayed, and seem to 
be walls constructed by human hands. The hori- 
zontal strata wliich mark them, form the different 
stories, while the detached hills of various sizes and 
shapes, with their evergeen, creeping junipers, on 
their tops represent the isolated edifices. The re- 
markable walls described by Lewis and Clark on 
the Missouri, have been produced in this way. The 
description I have just given, was furnished me by 
hunters, in whom I could place confidence; what I 
have seen myself, was on a much smaller scale, but 
was such as to satisfy me, that the account is by no 
means incredible. 

I believe that nearly the whole of the western side 
of the great valley is calcareous; in tliis respect re- 
sembling the opposite section. There is, however, a 
^'act which appears to me soincwjmt singular, a»d 



BOOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. 7^ 

for which I could not so easily account ;=^ on reach- 
ing the open country, ahout six or seven hundred 
miles up the Missouri, I observed on the river hills 
large blocks of granite, surrounded by a quantity of 
pebbles, such as we find in the mountain streams. 
These continue to be seen until we reach the first 
range of primitive mountains. I content myself with 
stating the fact, leaving the solution of the cause to 
naturalists. 

Besides the drawbacks in this western region, 
from want of wood, of water, and from the badness 
of the soil every where except in the narrow vallies 
of the rivers, there are extensive tracts of moving 
sands similar to those of the African deserts. Mr. 
Mackey, a Scotch gentlemen, who traversed it about 
the year 1798, informed me, that he was several days 
in passing over one of these, towards the mountains, 
and between the Platte and the Missouri, and where 
there was not the slightest vegetation excepting the 
prickly pear. 

Amongst the curiosities worthy of being mention- 
ed, are the remarkable salt prairies, near the Arkan- 
sas ; the following description is given by Mr. Sibley, 
United States' factor, in the Osage nation ; a gen- 
tleman of the most amiable character and possessing 
a fine understanding. 

**• I hasten to give you a description of this celebra- 
ted curiosity. The Grand Saline is situated about 
280 miles south west of Fort Osage, between tvi'^o 
forks of a small branch of the Ai'kansas, one of 
which washes its southern extremity, and the othei 
the principal one, runs nearly parallel within a mik 

* Dr. Drake, in his excellent work, the Picture of Cincinnattj 
has observed the same thing- in the state of Ohio. 



S9 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

of its opposite side. It is a hard level plain of a red- 
dish colored sand, and of an irregular or mixed 
figure ; its greatest length is from north west to south 
east, and its circumference full 30 miles — from the 
appearance of drift wood that is scattered over, it 
would seem that the whole plain is at times inundat- 
ed by the overflowing of the streams that pass near 
it. Tliis plain is entirely covered in dry hot weath- 
er, from two to six inches deep, with a crust of beau- 
tiful clean white salt, of a quality rather superior to 
the imported blown salt ; it bears a striking resem- 
blance to a field of brilliant snow after a rain, with 
a light crust on its top. On a bright sunny morning, 
the appearance of this natural curiosity is highly 
picturesque. It possesses the quality of looming or 
magnifying objects, and this in a very striking de- 
gree, making the small billets of wood appear as 
formidable as trees. Numbers of buffaloes were on 
the plain. The Saline is environed by a strip of 
marshy prairie witli a few scattering trees, mostly 
of cotton wood. Behind, there is a range of sand 
hills, some of which are perfectly naked, others thinly 
clothed with verdure, and dwarf plum bushes, not 
more than thirty inclies in height, from which we 
procured abundance of the most delicious plums I 
ever tasted. The distance to a navigable branch of 
the Arkansas, about 80 miles, the country tolerably 
level, and the water courses easily passed. 

About 60 miles south west from this, I came to the 
Saline, tlie whole of this distance lying over a coun- 
try remarkably rugged and broken, affording the 
most romantic and picturesque views imaginable. 
It is a tract of about 75 miles, in which nature has 
displayed a great variety of the most strange and 
whimsical vagaries. It is an assemblage of beauti- 



ROOK I. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, kc. 81 

fill meadows, verdant ridges, and rude missliape^ 
piles of red clay thrown together in the utmost appa ' 
rent confusion, yet, affording the most pleasing har- 
monies, and presenting in every direction an end- 
less variety of curious and interesting objects. Af- 
ter winding along for a few miles on the high ridges, 
you suddenly descend an almost pei'pendicular de- 
clivity of rocks and clay, into a series of level fer 
tile meadows, watei'ed by some beautiful rivulets, 
and here and there adorned v/ith shrubby cotton 
trees, elms and cedars. These meadows are divided 
by chains formed of red clay, and huge masses of 
gj7)sum, with here and there a pyramid of gravel. 
One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins 
of S( me ancient city, and that the plains had s :k 
by soine convulsion of nature, more than 100 feet be- 
low its former level ; for some of the huge columns 
of red clay rise to the height of 200 feet pendicular, 
capped with rocks of gypsum, which the hand of 
time is ever crumbling off, and strewing in beautiful 
transparent flakes along tlie declivities of the hiil_> 
glittering like so many mirrors in the sun." 



CHAP. V. 

T/ie alUivial tracts on the rivers Mississippi, Mis* 
souri, Arkansas^ ^c. 

The most valuable portions of Louisiana consist 
in the tracts formed by the deposits of the great river, 
or what is usually called the bottom lands. These 
alluvions have been formed on a much larger scale, 
than in any other paii; of North America, and may 
be compared to those of the Ganges or the Nile. I 
propose, in this place, to give an outline of the most 
considerable, reserving a more minute description 
for a subsequent part of the work. 

The alluvions of the Mississippi, are to be found 
chiefly on the western side of the stream, which pro- 
bably proceeds from the circumstance of the nume- 
rous and considerable rivers, which flow down the 
inclined plane on the western side of the valley, and 
deposit their sediment at their mouths, while at the 
same time they wear away the eastern bank. This 
may be nothing more than fancy, but the fact is evi- 
dent, that the alluvions on the left bank of the Mis- 
sissippi, are comparatively of small extent. Fi'om 
the mouth of the Ohio to Red river, the valley, or al- 
luvion, is on an average, thirty miles in width : and 
from the Red river, which may be regarded as the 
commencement of the delta on the Western side, it 
opens out at once to twice that width, Tliis valley 



{BOOK 1. ALLimAL TRACTS. 80 

is confined by what may be termed, as distinguished 
from the alhivion, the primitive ground ; which ge- 
nerally shews itself in abrupt acclivities, called bluffs, 
sometimes faced with rocks and at others presenting 
steep i)iecipices of clay, with little or no admixture 
of stones. The river in its general course, appi'oaches 
the upland or primitive ground on the eastern side ; 
it washes it in ten or twelve places, and seldom recedes 
more than a few miles ; while on the western side, it 
approaclies the upland but in one place, a few miles 
below the river St. Francis, and that only within a 
quarter of a mile : I believe in no place does it after- 
wards approach nearer than twenty miles. 

But a small part of the water ^^ liich flows from the 
river, during the floods, ever returns either on the 
west side, or on the east. Underneath the eastern 
bluffs, it lies in lagoons or lakes, which appear like 
so many blotches on the map ; on the western side, it 
either spreads over a vast surface and evaporates, 
flows into the numerous lakes or reservoirs, ormake« 
itself a channel into the St. Francis, Arkansas, and 
other western rivers. From the Manchae on one 
side, and the Red river on the other, the overfloAving 
water is carried off to the sea, by tlie numerous out- 
lets into the lakes and the gulph : here the primitive 
ground diverges, having an open space of at least 
seventy -five miles, curiously checquered by tlie nu- 
merous lakes, natural canals and strips of dry land. 
The most incontestible proofs exist, that the Missis- 
sippi, has at different periods meandered in a thou- 
sand channels, still visible, in the valley between the 
primitive ground on either hand. There are many 
lakes wliich exhibit t«ie " counterfeit sinulitude," of 
the river, and the ridges of high ground to be met 
with, once constituted its banks; thcj-jc ridges, from 



84 VIEWS OF LOtnSIANA. 

the accumulation of vegetable matter, have become 
even higher than the present banks, and are very 
rarely inundated. The banks of what are called 
bayous, (outlets from the river) are generally higher 
than those of the river, for the same i-eason; many 
of them, once formed a part of the principal channel. 
The following fact will prove, that tlie changes in 
the bed of tlie Mississippi, have in some places been 
very rapidly made. M. DeTouti, in the account 
which he gives of his first voyage down the Missis- 
sippi, in company with La Salle, in the year 1783, 
says that after passing Red river, (La Subloniere) 
about ten leagues, they came to a place where the 
Mississippi was divided into three branches, that 
they separated into as many pai-ties, and after de- 
scending about ten leagues, they found themselves 
again united by the conlluence of the streams.* 
Tliis was near Point Coupee, and Bayou Tunica, 
which at the present time, are both closed up and im- 
passible but in the high waters. 

To give a clear and satisfactory description, of the 
low lands which border on the Mississippi, below 
the mouth of the Ohio, is exceedingly difficult. Some 
have represented tlie river as running through a 
swamp; others tell us, that during the season of 
floods, it may be considered as a river thirty miles 
wide, the whole country being under water. It can- 
not be called a swamp; according to the acceptation 
of the word, that is, an almost iiTeclaimable morass 
or marsh ; there ai-e certainly very lai'gc tracts dur- 

* A dix licues de la, nous remarquames qii'elle se partag-e ei\ 
trois cannaiix. Je pris ceiui de la droite, M de la Foret celiii de 
la g-auche, and M. de la Stdle ceiui du Milieu. Nous suivimes 
chacun notrc canal, environs dix licues, et pens de temps apres, 
nous nous trouvumes reunis par une espece de Gonfluent «ur Ic 
mcme flcuvc." 



BOOK I ALLUVIAL TRACTS. «5 

ing tlie floods conipletely imiiidated, particularly be- 
low Red river, but when they subside, the land is 
again left dry. If tlie reader were to suppose, that 
the valley or alluvion of the Mississippi, is at those 
times covered by a continued sheet of water, he 
would be deceived: but when the flood is at its 
height, the whole valley or alluvion land, is cut up 
by natural canals replenished with water, every 
where in motion, filling the numerous lakes, or mak- 
ing its way to the sea, but leaving almost an equal 
proportion perfectly dry. Above Red river, the 
ground is rising every year by the accumulation of 
Yegetable substances, and by the deposition of earthy 
matter in places subject to annual inundation. This 
natural operation of reclaiming, goes on more ra- 
pidly than one would imagine. After Louisiana was 
ceded to the United States, several settlements had 
been formed above Red river, and on the Bayou's 
west of the Mississippi; these for five or six years 
were permitted to remain undisturbed by the rising 
of the waters, and it was not until the higli flood of 
1811, that the greater part was abandoned; but so 
great a quantity of sediment was deposited that year, 
that the ground is supposed to have generally risen 
six inches. 

It is worthy of remark, that the alluvial banks are 
uniformly higliest on the western side ; there are ma- 
ny places where the river does not break over tliem 
in the higliest floods, by twelve or eighteen inches, 
altliough the ground is overflowed in the rear, leav- 
ing narrow strips of fifty or one hundred yards wide. 
Tlie settlements on the banks of the river, are cliiefly 
on the western side from the Ohio to Natchez ; on 
the eastern, with but one exception, the only im- 
provements are on the upland. 



86 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

The circiimstance of the immediate borders of the 
viA er being the highest part of the alluvion, has given 
rise to many curious theories to account for its thus 
running on a ridge. But this is a circumstance by 
no means peculiar to the Missisippi, and may be ex- 
plained by obvious causes. If we examine attentive- 
ly, we shall see, that the alluvion of the most tiifiing 
rivulet, will be higher on the bank than at some dis- 
tance from it ; to account for it, it is sufficient to sug- 
gest, that in every inundation tlie grosser and more 
w eighty matter brought down by the stream, would be 
first deposited, and the more light at a greater dis- 
tance, and the last. Besides, the vegetable accumu- 
lations would also be greater, as on the margin of the 
stream vegetation is always most luxuriant. 

Above the mouth of the Ohio the alluvion gradu- 
ally becomes more narrow, until it is contracted to 
the width of five or six miles at tJie American bot- 
tom, beginning at Kaskaskia. The highlands or 
bluffs, are uniformly on the western side to the mouth 
of the Missouri, but instead of clay banks, they are 
faced with limestone, rising in some places to precipi- 
ces tw o hundred feet high and crowned with oak or 
cedars. The proportion of land subject to inunda- 
tion is very small, and there are not many outlets ; 
but there still exist shallow lakes, scattered through 
the bottoms, some of which, much resemble the 
channel of the river, but the greater part are nothing 
more than ponds or lagoons. 

It has been suggested by an ingenious French gen- 
tleman, M. Peyroux, that there was formerly an 
outlet from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi, through 
the Illinois. This is- supported by the well known 
facts, that the w^ater of nearly all the lakes which 
flow into the St. Lawrence, has sunk several feet. 



I300K I. ALLUVIAL TRACTS. S 

and the evident marks in the present channel of the 
Illinois, of having once contained a stream of much 
greater magnitude. This opinion might he strength- 
ened hy other facts within my own observation. The 
bluff which terminates tlie alluvion on the eastern 
side of the Mississippi, below the Illinois, at present 
distant several miles from the river, shews itself in 
a numbei' of places in bare precipices of limestone 
rock, with evident marks of having been worn by the 
waters, at least ten feet above the highest floods. 
The same thing may be observed on the western 
side. Can it be that the river was once Ave or six 
miles wide at this place, or has there been a lake 
which by some means or other, has been drained ? 
The last idea suggested itself to me, on examining a 
remarkable place on the river, eight or ten miles 
above Cape Girardeau, called the Grand Tower, 
which, although but little known, deserves the at- 
tention of the curious. The rocky bluffs on the wes- 
tern side are washed by the stream, and on the eas- 
tern the bottom at their base is not more than a few 
hundred yards wide; the hills or bluffs appear to 
converge in an unusual manner, and from the ap- 
pearance of the huge fragments of rocks, forming 
almost a continued chain across, there is strong rea- 
son for conjecture, that here was once a cataract. 
The tower is one of the fragments, and rises from the 
water about fifty feet in height, and about sixty 
yards from the western bank, which is a steep rock; 
its form is nearly circular, with a bouquet of cedars 
on the top. On the opposite side of the river, there 
is another huge detached rock, but round wliich, the 
water does not flow excepting in the season of floods ; 
it has a remarkable unexplored cavern, whicli the 
Aiaericaas call the DeviPs Oven. Between tlds and 



88 VIEWS GP LOUISIANA. 

the bluff, there are several other fragm-ents continu- 
ing the chain, through which the Mississippi, by the 
aid of time, or by some convulsion of nature, has 
found a passage. There are few places on the river 
of more dangerous and difficult navigation, both to 
persons ascending and descending. Between this 
and the mouth of the Ohio, there are to be seen in 
various places, detached rocks on the shore, and on 
the heads of islands, evidently rolled down by 
some mighty and unusual current. 

The valley of the ^lississippi above the Missouri 
and the Illinois, undergoes a wonderful change, it 
ceases to be more subject to inundation than the bor- 
ders of the Ohio, and it is contracted in breadth to 
two or three miles. As far as the falls of St. An- 
thony, the soil is excellent, and nothing can exceed 
the variety and beauty of the landscape. But it is 
imfortunately deficient in wood, particularly on the 
upland ; the continued succession of rich meadows, 
and sloping hills, are delightful to the eye, although 
in an agricultural point of view, it is by no means to 
be compared to the borders of the Ohio, or of the 
Missouri. 

The valley of this last river, is becoming every 
day of more importance, and is the quarter to which 
western emigration at this moment chiefly turns. 
The course of the Missouri, being nearly west for 
at least six hundred miles, it will have a preference 
to the Mississippi in point of climate. For at least 
two hundred miles, the alluvion valley may be esti- 
mated at five miles wide, thougli in some places ten, 
and covered with a heavy forest ; but the upland is 
nearly one half prairie. As on the Ohio, the bottom 
land appears alternately on one side or on the other ; 
the uplands or bluff's seldom rocky, and sloping with 



BOOK I. ALLUVIAL TRACTS. 89 

gentle acclivities to the water's edge. In some pla- 
ces, however, for a considerable distance, the river 
takes its course through the deep and level forests 
in the middle of the valley. From the Kansas river 
tlie forest begins to grow more thin, and we often 
see a grassy plain stretching from tlie brink of the 
river, while the upland is either entirely without 
trees or produces only stinted oaks. At the river 
Platte, the open plains may be said to begin, and 
generally tliei'e is not more than one half of the river 
border covered with woods, while the uplands have 
nothing but sliort grass. Still the banks of the river 
are sufficiently wooded to admit of settlement ; but 
unfortunately, from this point the river bottoms are 
much more subject to inundation than below. I am 
convinced that a compact settlement might be formed 
for about nine hundred miles, but that afterwards 
the settlements would be interrupted sometimes for 
fifty miles, althougli there are many extensive tracts 
on the river to its very source, of a rich soil and 
capable of being settled. Nothing can surpass the 
beauty of the country from the Chyenne river to the 
Mandans, the distance of three hundred miles, every 
mile almost may be inhabited, and the islands are 
delightful. This part of the river, was once ex- 
tremely populous, as may be seen by the number of 
Indian ruins. There arc many situations at the en- 
ti'ance of the large rivers of the Missouri, favorable 
for towns or villages; such as the Yellow Stone, the 
White river, the Chyeiuie, the Sioux, the Jaque, 
Platte, the Kansas, Osage, kc, ; the country in the 
vicinity is uniformly delightful. 

The valley of the Arkansas, is wider than that of 
the Missouri, but is almost bare of wood, and is 
more liable to inundation. Tiiis river is in fact bor- 
h2 



90 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

dered by immense grassy plains nearly its whole 
length, wiiich will oppose a great obstacle to its set- 
tlement. The valley of Red river, beyond the boun- 
dary of the state of Louisiana, is said to afford a 
fine tract of land, and with much more wood than 
that of the Ai'kansas. 



I 



CHAP. VL 

Lakes and Rivers. 

Over the wide spread surface of Louisiana, so 
small a portion of which is occupied by barren 
sands, many navigable streams must necessarily 
flow; perhaps there are not less than two hundred 
of equal size with the Thames or the Schuylkill : 
and yet the western side of the great valley of the 
Mississippi, is far from being as well watered as 
the eastern. Springs are less abundant, and the 
rivers depend chiefly for their supply on rains, and 
©n the melting of the snows. It is a remark which 
applies to nearly all the larger rivers on the western 
vside of the Mississippi, which take their rise in the 
great mountains, where springs are more nume- 
rous, and the streams clear and limpid, that while 
tliey flow through the mountainous country, they^ 
possess deep and clear channels, and are of easy 
navigation, but on entering the lower country, 
spread out, become broad and shallow, even cease 
to be navigable for a long distance. The Missouri 
and Mississippi, are perhaps the only exceptions. 
But tliose which rise short of the primitive moun- 
tains are navigable with scarcely any interruption 
to their sources, which are often in lakes. 

In upper Louisiana there are but few lakes ex^ 
eept those near the heads of the Mississippi. The 



92 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

Lake of the Woods, the lesser Winipec, Leech lake, 
Ked Cedar lake (supposed to be the source of the 
Mississippi) lake De Sable, &c, are the most con- 
siderable of these. There are several lakes between 
the Missouri, and the north west chain, but the 
country is yet but little known. It is supposed that 
lake Winepec, perhaps the largest of all those in- 
land seas, comes within the territory of the United 
States. — Even if in our limits of Louisiana we should 
be bounded by a line due west, from that one which 
terminates the line of the United States, it is pro- 
bable that the source of the Mississippi is further 
north than the southern side of lake Winipec. This 
lake receives a number of very considerable rivers, 
and is discharged into Hudson's Bay by Nelson's 
river ; it is connected with other lakes to the north- 
west, and has from the rivers emptying into it, an 
inconsiderable portage to the waters of lake Supe- 
rior. 

In lower Louisiana, there are a great number of 
lakes from the refluent waters of the Mississippi, 
and from the upland streams which lose themselves 
in the level. There will be enumerated and more 
particularly described, in the account of the state of 
Louisiana, as also the lakes Ponchartrain and Mau- 
repas, on the east side of the Mississippi : wliich 
although usually known under the name of lakes, 
might with more propriety be considered as bays, 
as they are immediately connected with the sea. 

I have continued the following table in order to 
present to the reader at one glance, the names and 
comparative importance of the principal rivers. 
Many have been necessarily omitted, considering it 
better to refer those who are desirous of a very mi- 
Bute account of the country to the map of Mr. Mel- 



BOOK I. 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 



9^ 



lish, who has combined all the latest discoveries. I 
also subjoin general observations on the larger ri- 
vers, but of the smaller I shall give an account in 
the second and third books. 

TABLE OF NAVIGABLE RIVERS IN LOUISIANA— 'DISTANCE 



OF NAVIGATION. 



Principal R. 


Tributaries. 


J\'avi. 1 Refnarks. 


MISSISSIPPI 




3,000 






San^Sue. . . 


80 


By some considered the 




PikeR 


120 


source of the Missip. heads 




des Corbeaux . 


300 


in Leech lake, and is larger 




St. Peters . . 


1,000 


than the branch which rises 




Turkey R. . . 




in Red Cedar lake; consi- 




Catfish R. , . 




dered the source of the a- 
bove mentioned river. 




des Moines. . 


800 


About 250 miles above 




Wayaconda . 




the mouth of the Missouri, 




Jaufiione . . . 




not much known^ 




Salt R 








Buffaloe . . . 








Cuivi-e .... 


150 






Missouri . . . 


3,096 






Marainek. . . 


350 






St. Francis . 


800 






White P.. . . 


1,100 






Arkansas . . . 


2,000 






Red R 


2,500 




LES COEBEAUX. 




15,296 






Leaf R. . . . 


180 


Tliere is a portage of one 


ST. PETERS 






mile from the head of this 




Blue Earth R. 




river to the Otter Tail lake. 




Red Wood R. 




the principal source of Red 


DES MOINES 


Yellow WoodR 
Rackoon R. 
Red Cedar R. 




river of Winipec. 


MISSOURI 


Gasconade . . 
Mine R. . . . 


100 
40 


S, W. side 




id. 




G. Osage . . . 


600 


id. 




1 Charatans . 


50 


id. 




2 Charatans . 


100 


N. E. side 



94 



VlliWS OF LOUISIANA. 



Principal R. j Tribut cries. 



JSl'ttvi. 



Hemarhs. 



Grand R. . . 

Kansas . . . 
Little R. Platte 
Nodawa . . , 
Platte .... 
Floyd's River 
Big Sioux . . 
White Stone . 
River a'Jaque 



Qui Courre 



Poncas . . . 
White River 



Tylers River . 
CMejiTie River 



Ser-war-ser-na 
Win-i-pen-hu 
Cannon-ball R. 
Knife River . 

Little Missouri 

Goose River 
White Earth R 
Yellow Stone 



Poi 



L'cupine R. 
R. 



Dry 

Big- Dry R. . . 
Muscle Shell R 
Big- Home . , 
Manoles . . . 
Fancy River . 



200 



>00 



60U N. E. side 
1,200 S. W. side 
40 N. E. side 
60 N. E. side 

S. W. upwards of 2,000 
miles in leng-th, but affords 
little or no navig-ation. 

N. E. A point of rendez- 
vous for the traders, and 
the Yankton band of Sioux. 

S. W. A handsome river 
but not navig-ableany great 
distimce. 

S. W. 

S. W. A large fine river; 
its branches not known, 
300 yards at its mouth. 

S. W. Not better known 
than White river ; 400 yds. 
wide at its mouth. 

S. W. side. 

S. W. 

S. W. 140 yards wide. 

S. W, Near the Mandaji 
villages. 

S. W. 134 yards wide, 
but not navig-able. 

N. E. 300 yards wide, 

N. E. 

S. W. 855 yards wide at 
its mouth ; a very large ri- 
ver, equal in length to the 
Platte ; affords much bet- 
ter navigation, but is asto- 
nishingly rapid. 

N. E. 'll2 yards wide. 



500 



600 



S. W. 100 
S. W. 400 
S. W. 100 
S. W. 100 
S. W. 100 
S. W. 180 



do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
d(». 



BOOK I. 



LAKES AND RIVERS. 



^5 



Principal R. 


Tributaries. 


JWivi. 


Remarks. 




>>eaiborne . . 








M.a-ia .... 




N. E. At this place the 
Missouri is observed to 
take nearly all its turbid- 




Jefferson Fork 


96 


nese. 




Madison . , . 


80 






(^.Jiatin . . . 


60 




YBl. STOSri 


Big- Home . . 
Tongiie Rivor 
CLirk's River 
Lewis's River 






MARAMIK 


IJig- River . . 
Weslem Bnm. 


150 




ST. FHASCIS 


150 


This river is not per- 
fectly known. 




Penusco . . . 


50 


WHlTi: BIVER... 


Aux Cashe . . 


80 






Black River . 


400 






James River . 


150 






Riipid John . 


100 






Red River . . 


300 




ARKANSAS 


Verdigris . . 
Nagi-aca . . . 


200 






150 






Canadian River 


100 






Grand River . 


200 






Grand Saline . 








Strong Saline 






REB RIVBR 


Black River . 


50 


Tliis river is fonned bv 
the junction of the Tensa, 
Washita and Little river — 
There are numerous navi- 
gable bayoux and stream.*; 
from Red river, and seve- 
ral considerable branches 
yet but little known. 


GREAT OSAOE.... 


Nangira . . . 
Grand River . 
The Fork . . 
Cook's River 
Vermillion R. 






KASSAS 


Smokey hill F. 




Tliese rivers are naviga 
ble fiom 150 to 300 niiies 






Grand Saline 






Solomon's F. 








Republican do. 






PLATTE 


Elk-horn . . . 


400 






Wolf River . 


600 


Heads in a lake. 



96 



\'1EWS OF LOUISIANA. 



PHndpal R . 


Tributaries, j 


.Yiivi. J 


Remarks. 




Padoucas . . 






BLACK H. (w.) 


Spring- River . 


50 


Rises in a lake, and is 




Current . . . 




navig-able from the very- 




Eleven .... 




source. 


BLACK R. (m.) 


Washita . . . 


1,000 






Riviere au Baf 


400 


This is along river which 




Tensa .... 


150 


flows between the Missis- 




Catahoula . . 


50 


sippi and Washita, and said 




Little River . 


100 


to communicate with the 


IlED BITEH 


Little Missouri 




St. Francis, by means of a 


©f Winipec. 


Assineboin . . 




lake, witii which the wa- 




Saskashawin 




ters of that river are con- 
nected. 


TICHE 




150 


Called a bayoux, but more 
properly a river. 


SABIIVE 




400 




Chaffallaya. 




300 


A continuation of Red riv. 



THE MISSISSIPPI. 

To say every thing of this nohle river, which 
writers have deemed worthy of notice, would far 
exceed the bounds to which I am confined. Besides, 
it is so well known from the writings of many intel- 
ligent persons, that by entering into such detail, my 
task would be little more than that of compilation. 
The Mississippi (or Mitchasippi, the father of 
streams) justly ranks amongst the most magnificent 
rivers in the world : whether we consider its magni- 
tude, the astonishing number and consequence of its 
tributary rivers, or tlie amazing scope of fertile 
land which it traverses ; watering at least a fourth 
of the habitable part of North America. The com- 
parison to the Nile not unfrequently made, is far 
from giving just conceptions of its magnitude and 
importance. It is only with tlie equally noble and 
vast rivers of tlie New World, it can be properly as- 
similated. It differs from these in one particular; 
instead of a channel proportioned to its extent and 



BOOK I. LAKES AND RIVERS. OT 

magnitude, it gives its tribute to the ocean by in- 
numerable outlets and natural canals. The Delta oi 
this river is said to extend several degrees of longi- 
tude, the wliole formed with earth brought down by 
the stream. Perhaps at one period of the world, 
this river gave its waters to the great reservoir with 
as much majesty as the Amazon, or La Platta, but 
the Mississippi may challenge any of those rivers 
for the extent of its navigation and the quantity of 
habitable and fertile soil on his border, and on the 
borders of his " thousand sons." 

There can be no doubt but that the Missouri is 
the true continuation of the Mississippi. After the 
confluence of these two rivers, the latter assumes 
the appearance and peculiarity of the former in al- 
most every particular. The colour of their waters can 
be distinguished, however, for thirty miles before that 
of the Missouri entirely prevails, but in the alluvia, 
the sand bars, islands, rafts, currents, and the ap- 
pearance of the woods on its borders, the Missouri 
still continues. The Missouri brings into the chan- 
nel four times as much water as the Mississippi; in 
point of length it is at least double, and even several 
of its principal branches are even longer. 

Above the Missouri, the Mississippi is clear and 
limpid, like the Oliio, and bordered by a country 
extremely beautiful, with many fertile spots, but is 
not to be compared to that on tlie Ohio as adapted 
to settlements. The greater part consists of naked 
I plains, which promise little to the husbandman. 
Excepting the cataracts of St. Anthony, this river 
lias but one or two serious interruptions in the na- 
vigation for at least sixteen hundred miles above St. 
Louis: but its channel generally abounds with 
shoals, and sand bars, the current, however, gentle. 

I 



9.8 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

It is not an easy matter to point out exactly its 
source, several of the branches into which it divides 
near its head, might claim this honour. It does not 
take its rise in a mountainous country, and yet it 
must be of considerable height, from the number of 
important rivers which flow from the same neigh- 
bourhood. The country abounds in lakes and ex- 
tensive marshes, among which the Mississippi takes 
its rise. A narrow ridge of high land separates 
it from tlie waters of lake Winipec. Red Cedar 
lake, situated in lat. 47 deg. 38 min. is considered 
by Pike as its source, this is but a few miles from 
Red lake, in which Red river takes its rise ; here 
is therefore an easy communication with the waters 
which discharge themselves into Hudson's bay. 

In descending this river but little variety is ob- 
served. Entering from the Missouri, we find our- 
selves in a more spacious river : in places where 
large islands divide the current, it spreads to a 
^reat width, sometimes of several miles ; yet when 
this is not the case, the channel of the river is but 
little wider than at the Mandan villages, though at 
that place it is only filled in the season of high wa- 
ter. The navigation is considered dangerous from 
the Missouri to the mouth of the Ohio, on account of 
the great number of sawyers and rafts. Below this 
iine river, no perceptible diiference takes place in 
point of magnitude, and from the St. Francis to Red 
river, the general width scarcely exceeds that of 
the Missouri. At Point Coupee it assumes a more 
majestic appearance, and from this place continues 
a course, uninterrupted by islands and sand bars, 
with a current gradually diminishing. 

Its border scenery is disagreeably uniform. The 
banks are covered with cotton wood trees^ of enor«» 



BOOK h LAKES AND RIA^ERS. S9 

moiis size, the tops apparently level as if made so 
by design. Scarcely any otlier tree grows on the 
island. Below the mouth of the Ohio, the cypress 
makes its appearance in the bends, where the ground 
is lower than on the points, and subject to be oAer- 
flown. The arundo gigantia, appears about the 
same place, on the spots of ground least subject to 
inundation. It grows to the heiglit of twenty feet, 
forming an impervious thicket. Tlie long moss, or 
Spanish beard begiiis to be seen below the Arkan- 
sas, and gives a gloomy appearance to the woods. 
The falling in of the banks is amongst the most re- 
markable features of tliis river; sometimes whole 
acres with tlie trees growing on them are precipi- 
tated into the stream, creating fiightful impedi- 
ments to tlie navigation, and not unfrequently over- 
whelming boats moored near the shore. In time, 
the trees thus fallen in, become sawyers and plan- 
ters ; the first so named from the motion made by 
the top when acted upon by the current, the others 
are the trunk of trees of sufficient size to resist it. 
There are also frequently seen at the heads of 
islands, immense collections of drift wood, piled up 
to a great height, thrown confusedly together and 
closely matted ; here are found, boats, canoes, 
planks, and a great variety of timber, brought 
down by the rivers of a hundred climates and soils, 
and heaped together in chaos. These are amongst 
the most dangerous places in the course of the navi- 
gation^ The current rushes towards them with 
amazing velocity, and it is with great difficulty and 

* For a more minute account of the difficulties of the navig-a- 
tion, and for many interesting" details, I refer the reader to the 
Oliio and Mississippi Navig-ator, 



ICO VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

the exertion of skill, that they are avoided. It is 
therefore dangerous to float after night. 

The ^Mississippi is remarkahle for the muddiness 
of its waters, a quality altogether derived from the 
jSIissouri, but is less turbid than that river ; the wa- 
ters above the junction, being clear, the accession 
of the Illinois, Ohio, and other clear streams tend- 
ing also to render it more limpid than the Missouri. 
It is not from the falling in of the banks, as is sup- 
posed, that this muddiness proceeds ; this is scarcely 
sufficient to supply what is deposited by tlie river on 
sand bars, islands, &c. between the upper Missouri, 
(from whence the earth forming it is carried) ami 
the mouth of the river. 

There is a surprising difference in the navigation 
of this truly noble river, in the ordinary stages of 
the water and during the continuance of the floods. 
There have been instances of persons descending 
from St. Louis to New-Orleans, in ten days; the 
distance, however, is much shortened by being able 
to cut off points, and to go through channels imprac- 
ticable in low water. The usual time in low water 
is from four to six weeks. In ascending, fifty days 
to the mouth of the Ohio is considered a good voyage, 
but two months is the most usual time ; oars and 
poles are always used for the purpose of navigating 
the boats, but the cordelle, and sails, are also of 
great importance. In the course of a voyage it is 
rare that there are not six or eight days of sailing, 
which is a great relief to the hands, as the boat is 
then propelled against the current without their as- 
sistance, sometimes, thirty miles a day. In very 
light winds, the sails are hoisted and although not 
sufiicient alone to cause the boat to descend, yet af- 
ford considerable help. The boats usually employ- 



BOOK I. LAKES AND RIVERS. 101 

ed are from ten to thirty tons burthen ; as high as 
Natchez, schooners of fifty tons often ascend. 
Tliere are, besides, between the places just men- 
tioned, a kind of boat of a peculiar construction, 
much in use, and carrying often eight or ten tons : 
they appear to be formed of a single tree, but in re- 
ality out of three of tlie largest size ; two are hol- 
lowed in such a manner as to form the sides, and a 
third for the bottom : they are then joined together 
so as to make a very durable and strong boat, easily 
managed, and the most safe against hurricane* and 
violent winds. 

The Mississippi carries generally fifteen feet wa- 
ter from the mouth of tlie Missouri to the Ohio, from 
tlience to Red river, it seems to increase in dejjth : 
at this place it has as many fathoms, and at New- 
Orleans not less than forty. On the bar, there are 
usually from twelve to fourteen feet, although the 
Avater rises at the mouth of the Ohio fifty feet, and 
but little diminution is experienced before we pass 
Natchez ; at Baton Rouge it is not more tlmn twen- 
ty-five feet, at New-Orleans only fifteen, and at the 
mouth of the river is scarcely perceptible. 

The floods of the Mississippi usually begin in 
April ; commencing with the first flood of the Mis- 
souri, which is usually in March, on the breaking 
up of the ice; this is followed by the Mississippi 
above the junction, afterwards by the Ohio, and 
other rivers. The great flood of the Missouri be- 
gins in June, shortly after which those of the Mis- 
sissippi, in consequence attain their greatest height. 
It subsides in August. A very unusual occurrence 
took place this winter (1812) in the month of De- 
cember, the river rose to within two or tliree feet of 
the highest water^ and continued to be high until the 

12 



102 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

latter end of the montli. The oldest inhabitants had 
never witnessed any thing* of the kind. 

MISSOURI. 

This magnificent river, the greatest of North 
America, and one of the largest on the globe, from 
the ignorance of the first explorers and from the in- 
veteracy of habit, has only been assigned the first 
rank among those which swell the Mississippi. I ne- 
ver can forget the feelings with which I beheld it for 
the first time ; with what astonishment I gazed upon 
the awful velocity of its rolling curient, with its 
turbid ash-colored waters ; and it was not without 
some involuntary hesitation I ventured to trust my- 
self on its mighty flood. The objects which every 
where met my eye, the loose and crumbling banks, 
the large trunks of trees covered with slime and 
mud, fixed in the sides of the bank like cheveaux de 
fri^e, and the rude and chaotic appearance of the 
scenery, produced sensations by no means agreea^ 
ble. 

It enters the Mississippi nearly at right angles in 
latitude 38 degrees 55 minutes; the confluence is by 
no means comparable to that of the Ohio, principally 
owing to an island at the entrance. The course of 
the river in ascending is little north of west to the 
Platte. Above this, its course is nearly north west, 
until we reach the Mandan villages, in latitude 46, 
From this point the distance to the Mississippi is less 
than from the Platte. From the northernmost part 
of the great bend, above the Mandans, and in lati- 
tude 47 degrees, we ascend nearly west; the course 
of the three forks, Jefferson, Madison, and Galla- 
tin, is nearly south west and south. 



BOOK I. LAKES AND RIVERS. 103 

The current of this river is at least a fourth grea- 
ter than that of the Mississippi. To the Platte, it is 
amazingly swift, and stemmed with great difficulty, 
ahounding with shoals and sand bars, sawyers, rafts 
projecting from the shore, and islands. It is almost 
impracticable to descend in flat-bottomed boats, even 
in the highest stages of the water : in barges great 
care and dexterity are requisite. It is far from be- 
ing agreeable in appearance, unless we consider the 
pleasure derived fi'om contemplating its wonderful 
swiftness and force. Above the Platte, the Missouri, 
though not less swift in current, is rendered more 
easy of navigation hy the large sand bars, and clear 
banks, which admit of towing: but from the scar- 
city of wood of a proper kind, it is necessary to lay 
in a sufficient stock of oars and poles. To the falls, 
two thousand miles further, it preserves the same 
character j the navigation, however, becomes less 
dangerous, or difficult, excepting from the shoals, 
which in low w^ater are abundant. Above the falls 
or cataracts, there is a clear fine river five hundred 
miles to the tliree forks, affording better navigation 
than any part of the Missouri, although the channel 
is generally narrow and sometimes confined between 
lofty mountains. The three forks are all fine rivers, 
and receive a great number of smaller streams. In 
ascending the Missouri, sails are of more importance 
than on any of the western rivers. The openness of 
the country gives scope to the winds, which in the 
spring and summer usually blow from the south east 
and suit the general course of the river : I frequently 
ascended, notwithstanding the swiftness of the cur- 
rent, from thirty to forty miles per day for three or 
four days in succession. 



104 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

The course of this mighty river is exceedingly 
irregular; in many places it pursues a zigzag 
course for forty miles, sometimes as if returning 
upon its steps. Some of its larger sinuosities take 
m an amazing sweep. It receives all its principal 
rivers from tiie south west side. The extent of coun- 
try to be drained on the north east side is to the otlier, 
as the east side of the Mississippi is to the western. 
This is owing to the vicinity of the Mississippi, and 
the north west chain of lakes. The distance from the 
Mandan villages to the British establishment on the 
Red river of Winipec, is but a few days journey. 

The floods of this river usually begin early in 
March, and there is a continued succession of them 
until the last of July; the river subsiding and again 
rising as the dilferent rivers bring down their annual 
tributes. It so happens, that seldom more than two 
great rivers are high at the same period. Many of 
these floods are never felt in the Mississippi. But 
the great rise of the Missouri itself, from the melting 
of the snows, takes place about the tenth of June, 
and begins to subside about the latter end of July. 
In some of the northern branches, the ice does not 
break up until late in the season : about one thou- 
sand miles up the Missouri, I saw a large cake of 
ice floating in the river on the last of May. 

There is little variation in tlie width of this river 
from its mouth to the cataracts. In some places it 
spreads considerably, and in these, sand bars im- 
pede the navigation in low water : at such times the 
river is reduced in places to less than a fourth of its 
usual width, between sand bars which advance into 
it and ahighbai^k. But when the channel is full, 
even at the Man dans, it appealed tome not less broad 
or majestic, than docs the Mississippi at New-Or- 
leans. 



BOOK I. LAKES AND RIVERS. 105 

The whole length of the navigation of the Missouri 
from the hig-hest point of Jefferson river, the largest 
of the three forks, to its entrance into the Mississippi, 
is three thousand and ninety-six miles. Such a na- 
vigation is possessed hy no other tributary stream 
in the world. No insurmountable obstacle occurs 
for two thousand five hundred miles, when we reach 
the great falls or cataracts, next to those of the Nia- 
gara the most stupendous in America. In point of 
variety, magnificence, and beauty they are perhaps 
unequalled by any in the world. It may more pro- 
pei'ly be called a chain of cascades and cataracts of 
various figures and magnitudes, composed of at 
least forty or fifty in number, in the distance of 
eighteen miles, descending from one ledge of rock to 
another, in the whole three hundred and sixty feet. 
Before they begin, the river presents a wide and calm 
expance of fourteen hundred yards covered with 
wild fowl, its waters like those of a lake preserving 
an uniform height and kissing the bordering grass 
of the romantic meadows which stretch on either 
side. Suddenly it is compressed to the width of 
three hundred yards, and after foaming and wheel- 
ing among the rocks, it dashes over a precipice of 
twenty-six feet. It then successively tumbles over 
ledges of rocks of four, six, ten, fourteen feet in 
height, and again leaps down a height of fifty feet in 
one unbroken street nearly a quarter of a mile in 
width, and forming the most regular and beautiful 
cascade in the world. There are after this, ten dis- 
tinct successive pitches from four to twenty feet, be- 
fore it reaches the principal cataract, when it thun- 
ders down from a perpendicular elevation of ninety 
feet. By this time, the waters thus vexed and bruis- 
ed, appear at the bottom of the nine successive cas- 



106 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

cades over which they are next precipitated, in im» 
mense masses of foam, while the light spray which 
rises aloft emprismed by the sun produced the most 
brilliant appearance. The surrounding scenery is 
the corresponding immensity of the Missouri desert ; 
boundless plains stretching beyond the boundary or 
vision ; rugged hills piled upon them, and a distant 
glimpse of the snow capped mountains which separate 
the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific 
ocean. This sublime spectacle, until the voyage of 
Lewis and Clark had lavished its magnificence on 
the desert unknown to civilization. 

ARKANSAS. 

The Arkansas, next to the Missouri, is the most 
considerable tributary of the Mississippi. In length 
it is nearly two thousand five hundred miles, and na* 
vigable at proper seasons nearly the whole distance. 
In many places its channel is broad and shallow, at 
least above the rapids, so as to render navigation al- 
most impracticable. Until eight or nine hundred 
miles from its mouth, it receives no considerable 
streams, owing to the vicinity of the waters of the 
Missouri, of the Kansas, &c. on the one side, and 
those of Red river on the other. The chief rivers 
which fall into it, are tlie Verdigris, the Negraca, 
Canadian river. Grand river, &c. Several are re- 
markable for being strongly impregnated with salt ; 
the Arkansas itself, at certain seasons is said to be 
brackish. 

The lands on this river for six or eight hundred 
miles up, are described as very fine and capable of 
affording settlements, though principally untimber- 
ed. For a long distance up, the flat lands on either 
side are intersected with numerous bayous. — There 



BOOK I, LAKES AND RIVERS. 107 

is a remarkable communication between the Arkan- 
sas and White river, by a channel or bayou connect- 
ing- the two rivers with a current setting alternately 
into the one or the other, as the flood in either hap- 
pens to predominate. 

RED RIVER. 

Takes its source in the Cordilleras, at no great 
distance north of Santa Fee. In length it is about 
the same with the Arkansas. It is navigable four 
hundred miles, with no insurmountable obstruction. 
There is a curious raft, formed of logs and earth, 
which entirely covers its channel,- trees are grow- 
ing upon it, and one might pass over without per- 
ceiving the river. Red river runs in a valley on an 
average fifteen miles wide, for at least five hundred 
miles, wliich is every where intersected with bayou, 
and large lakes. The navigation meets with the 
first impediment one hundred and fifty miles. The 
falls or rapids are about two miles in length, the 
breadth of the river two hundred and fifty yards. 
They are occasioned by a soft rock of free stone : 
the greatest pitch in low water, not being more than 
eight or nine inches. This river might with much 
more justice than the Mississippi, be called the Ame- 
rican Nile. A country lies on its boi'ders mo]*e ex- 
tensive than Egypt, and of a soil the richest perhaps 
in the world. Its waters, which are not potable, 
are very red, impregnated with some mineral. The 
river is remarkably narrow ; it seldom spreads to 
the width of two hundred and fifty yards, and is more 
generally contracted to one hundred ; it is also ex- 
ceedingly crooked. The annual swell, which is 
early in the spring of the year, raises the water fifty 
or sixty feet^ when it flows with great rapidity : but 



108 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

during the summer and season of low water, it is 
sunk within deep and ragged clay banks, of an un- 
sightly appearance, and has not more than eight or 
ten feet of water. The outlets from this river are 
more numerous than even from the Mississippi, and 
joined by streams which flow from the uplands, or 
pine woods. The course of the river is constantly 
Subject to change ; many of the bayou which at pre- 
sent appear inconsiderable, at no distant period con- 
stituted the bed of the principal river. 

R, DES CORBEAUX, 

The western branch of the Mississippi, and afford- 
ing the best communication with Red river of Wini- 
pec. This river is ascended one hundred and eighty 
miles to the Leaf river, which enters from the north 
w est ; the Leaf river is again ascended the same 
distance ; there is then a postage of one half mile to 
the Otter Tail lake, the principal source of Red ri- 
ver. The other branch of the riviere des Corbeaux, 
bears south west and approaches the St. Peters. 

ST. PETERS, 

Enters the Mississippi about forty miles below the 
falls of St. Anthony. It is a fine stream, and may 
be navigated to its source, a thousand miles ; the cur- 
rent is gentle, and in places scarcely perceptible ; in 
the spring and summer it is covered witli wild fowl, 
which collect here for the purpose of breeding, and 
find abundant nourishment in the wild rice which 
grows in the river and neighboring lakes. Its prin- 
cipal branches are, Blue Earth river, Red Wood ri- 
ver, and Yellow Wood river. 

DES MOINES. 

Next to the St. Peters, it is the largest of the ri- 
vers which the Mississippi receives from the west, 



BOOK I, LAKES AND RIVERS. 109 

above the confluence with the Missouri. If enters 
two hundred and fifty miles from their junction, and 
is navigable without a fall or scarcely an interrupt 
tion, to the Pelican lake, where it rises, and which 
is not far from the Sioux river of the Missouri, a 
distance of about eight hundred miles. Raccoon ri- 
ver, the principal branch enters on the south west 
side, and is navigable several hundred miles. There 
are several others of some magnitude, particularly 
the Red Cedar river. 

GRAND RJVER, 

Enters the Missouri on the north east side, about 
250 miles up; a fine river, navigable six hundred 
miles ; general course not distant from the Missouri. 
Foi'merly, when the traders bound for the Mahas, 
(800 miles up the Missouri) were infested by the 
Kansas Indians, they ascended this river, and then 
crossed to the Missouri. 

KANSAS, 

Rises in the vast plains between the Arkansas and 
the Platte. It is one of the finest rivers of the Mis- 
souri, though inferior to several of them in length. 
The principal branches are the Smoky Hill fork^ 
Grand Saline, Solomon's Fork, and the Republicau 
Fork. It enters the Missouri 300 miles up. I have 
conversed with hunters who had ascended it, with- 
out meeting any considerable obstacles, more than 
three hundred leagues. It receives a great number of 
large streams, and is by no means well known. The 
adjacent country is generally prairie, and the cliffs 
on the river, arc frequently solid rocka of gypsum. 

K 



110 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

THE PLATTE, 

Is the longest and largest of the rivers which dis- 
charge themselves into the Missouri, being little 
short of two thousand miles, and yet can hardly be 
reckoned a navigable stream. The channel is ex- 
tremely wide and abounds with ever varying quick- 
sands. Several fine navigable rivers, however, dis- 
charge themselves into it ; the Elk Horn, and the 
Wolf river, and the Padoucas Fork. 

THE YELLOW STONE (OR ROCHE JAUNE,) 

Has considerable resemblance to the Missouri in 
size and difficulty of navigation, and is the most 
considerable of those rivers which discharge them- 
selves into it. The Missouri undergoes a percepti- 
ble change after the junction. In seasons of high 
water it is more properly a torrent ; the descriptions 
of its rapidity are almost incredible. It enters the 
Missouri 1880 miles up. The principal branches 
are, Big Horn, Tongue River, and Clark's river. 

WHITE R. SHAYENNE R. R. A. JAGUE — SIOUX R. 

These might be ranked amongst the most consi- 
derable rivers any where but in the valley of the 
Mississippi. There are besides many others which 
I cannot notice without swelling this account beyond 
all usual limits. The Little Missouri (ninety miles 
above the Mandan villages) is remarkable for the 
quantity of earth which it carries to the river. At 
the Maria river ^ a large stream which enters the ri- 
ver two thousand miles up, the muddiness of the 
Missouri in a great measure ceases. 

There are several considerable rivers, between 
the Missouri and the north west lakes. Red river 
is the principal ; the Msiniboin, is its largest branch. 



BOOK I. LAKES AND RIVERS. Ill 

The Mouse rivevy or Saskashawin, is remarkable 
for taking its rise from the bank of the Missouri. 

The rivers of the province of Texas most worthy 
of note, are the Trinity , tlie Gmidaloupe^ the Brassas 
de Deos^ and the San Antonia. These are long and 
narrow rivers rising in the Cordilleras, and afford 
much fine land on their borders. 



CHAP. VII. 

»Xiatural or indigenous productions-'^animaly vegeta^ 
ble and mineral. 

Not being a naturalist, I shall only attempt to 
give some idea of the extensive field which lies open 
to the learned. Were I to attempt, upon a slender 
knowledge, to give a scientific account, I might lead 
the reader into error. 

I am informed that the western side of the Missis- 
sippi, to the eye of the naturalist, has a character al- 
together different from any part of the United States, 
and that except New Holland, the world does not af- 
ford a more interesting field. 

Mr. Bradbury has made a very fine collection of 
specimens, and some very interesting discoveries. 
The indefatigable research of this gentleman, and 
that heart-engaged enthusiasm, which the student of 
the great book of nature, has ever been observed to 
possess, promise a valuable acquisition to pleasura- 
ble and useful knowledge. The discoveries of Lewis 
and Clark, even in this department, are said to be 
very important; but, from the expedition necessary 
in the movements of the exploring pai-ties, and the 
necessity of a continual watch, for tlieir own safety, 
they could not possess the opportunity and leisure, 
necessary for the examination of objects more mi- 
nute. 



BOOK I. P^^ODUCTIONS, kc. 113 

The forest trees, and plants and animals^ de- 
scribed by Mr Jefferson, and other writers, are 
found in some part or other of this territory^ but 
there is also a great variety, peculiar to itself. The 
subject of its mineralogy remains untouched. Mr. 
Bradbury has discovered nearly one liundred and 
fifty no7i-descript plants; near twenty of which, 
cannot be assigned to any known genera, and may 
"therefore be considered as forming new ones. His 
discoveries with respect to the animal part of the 
creation, and the subterraneous riches>of the coun- 
try, are not less important. 

ANIMAlS. 

Agreeably to what I have already said, I shall 
not attempt to give a catalogue of the animals, 
plants, &c. but merely notice those most remarkar 
ble. 

The Grizzly Bear — First claims our attention. 
This animal, is the monarch of the country which 
he inhabits. The African lion, or the tyger of Ben- 
gal, is not more terrible or fierce. He is the ene- 
my of man; and literally thirsts for human blood. 
So far from shunning, he seldom fails to attack ; 
and even to hunt him. I am credibly informed that 
he has been known to pursue the track of a hunter 
an hour after his having passed. The India,ns make 
war upon tiiese ferocious monsters, with the same 
ceremonies, as they do upon a tribe of their own 
species : and in the recital of their victories, tiie 
death of one of them, gives the warrior greater 
renown than the scalp of a human enemy. 

The Grizzly Bear, is a non-de script., and much 
the largest of the species. He is twice the size of a 
common brown bear, and four times that of the Eur- 



tU VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ropean. One, killed by Lewis and Clark, near the 
Porcupine river, about two thousand miles up the 
Missouri, measured as follows ; 

Round the head 3 feet 5 inches 

Round the neck 3 feet 1 1 inches 

Length 8 feet Ti inches 

Round the fore leg 1 foot 1 1 inches 

Talons — in length 4 3-8 inches 

Mr. Manuel Lisa, the first who ascended to this 
country for the purpose of trade, and who spent nine 
months in it, informed me that they sometimes ex- 
ceed 1 ,000. When full grown^ commonly weigh six or 
eiglit hundred. He possesses an amazing strength, 
and attacks without hesitation and tears to pieces 
the largest bulfaloe. The color, is usually such as 
tlie name indicates, thougli there are varieties, from 
black to silvery whiteness. The skins are highly 
\'alued for muffs and tippets ; and will bring from 
twenty to fifty dollars each. 

These bears are not usually seen lower than the 
Mandan villages. In the vicinity of the Roche 
Jaunc, and of Little Missouri, they are said to be 
most numerous. They do not wander much in the 
prairies, but are usually found in points of wood, 
in the neighbourhood of large streams. The Indians 
hardly ever venture into the fringe of wood, which 
borders the rivers, in that vast tract of open coun- 
try, without first setting up a loud and continued 
shout, in order that the bears, if there be any, may 
either come forth to attack them, or retire, if they 
happen not to be so disposed. 

In shape, he differs from the common bear in be- 
ing proportionably more long and lank. He does 
not climb trees, a circumstance which has enabled 
hunters with whom I am acquainted, to make their 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. 115 

escape. The Indians complain that some of their 
best warriors, have fallen victims to this animal. 
Lewis and Clark's men, on several occasions, nar- 
rowly escaped from their attacks. The grizzly bear 
is sufficient to disprove, the idle theories of Buffon or 
Raynal, as to the impotency of the new world in 
the production of animals. 

dntelope, was thought to be a non-descript species 
of deer, it is a beautiful little animal, and is found 
on the Missouri above the Platte. The antelope 
goes in flocks of several hundreds ; the Indians fre- 
quently take them, by driving them into the water 
and attacking them with clubs. 

Grosse Corne^ so called from the large size of the 
horns, some of them being two feet in length, and 
four or five inches in diameter; they are extremely 
shy, and climb without difficulty to the pinnacle of 
the highest mountain, and sport upon the giddy verge 
of precipices. They have been called also mountain 
sheep^ but have little resemblance to sheep, except 
in the head, horns, and feet. On the rump, tliey 
are white, but every where else of a dun colour. In 
size they exceed the deer, and have a fine soft hair : 
the horns of the male are larger than those of the fe- 
male. This animal is thought to be the Jgalia. 

The Buffaloe, may be said to have retired north of 
the Illinois, and west of the Mississippi. The plains 
of Indiana and Illinois, were once his places of fa- 
vorite resort, and he loved to frequent the banks of 
the beautiful Ohio ; but encroaching settlements have 
driven him away. His proper country appears to be 
the plains of the Missouri; those of Indiana and Il- 
linois, are miniatures of these. Here the buffaloe 
is found in immense herds; frequently covering the 
plain as far as the eye can reach. Some of these 



116 V[EWS OP LOUISIANA. 

herds, have heen estimated at ten thousand head??. 
In the dry season, they are found in the neighbour- 
hood of the great rivers, but there are also regular 
migrations of them from north to south, when they 
are seen passing the Missouri, for several days in 
su€cession, like the maich of Xerxes' army. 

The wool of the buffaloe has a peculiar fineness, 
even surpassing that of the Merino. I have seen 
gloves made of it, little inferior to silk. But for the 
difficulty of separating the hair, it might become a 
very important article of commerce. Should any 
means be discovered of effecting this, or should it be 
found, that at certain seasons, there is less of this 
mixture, the buffaloe wool must become of prim^ 
importance in manufactures. 

It is curious to observe, that in the instruction to 
Iberville by the king of France, two things were 
considei-ed of the first importance, the pearl fishery^ 
and the buffaloe wool. Charlevoix observes, that he 
is not surprised that the first should not have been 
attended to, but he thinks it strange that the second 
should be neglected even to his time. 

Elk and Beer, are found in great numbers in this 
territory. In the neiglibourhood of the settlements, 
deer are very abundant; the poor animals enjoy 
some respite from their cruel persecutors, on ac- 
count of the low state of the peltry trade, and for 
some time past have been observed to increase. Two 
rarieties of deer are discovered high up on the Mis- 
souri. The black tailed, or mule deer ; remarkable 
for very long ears, and tails almost without hair, 
except at the end where there is a small tuft of a 
black colour. The other kind is distinguished by 
very small horns, and a tail of unusual length — 
eighteen or twenty inches. 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. lit 

There is a species of wolf different from the wol- 
verin, and a curious one of the fox. The braireau 
or badger, is found on the Mississippi and on the 
Missouri. The changeable hare (lepus variabilis J 
a beautiful animal, gray in summer, and white in 
winter, is seen in this country. 

The Frairie Dog^ or Squirrel, is a great curiosity. 
It lives in burrows, or as they are commonly called 
towns, and is about a third larger than the fox 
squirrel. The head is thick and clumsy, it has large 
jaws, full, large eyes, but the ear is remarkably 
small. The body is long, and legs short, the tail 
not much larger than that of a common ground 
squirrel, and very delicate ; the hair short and sleek ; 
of a light gray, excepting on the belly, where it is 
white. It is without doubt a species of squirrel, 
though it has a cloven lip like the rabbit. It makes 
a noise very similar to that of the ground squirrel, 
though much louder; and resembling in a slight de- 
gree, the barking of a very small dog. When at 
some distance from its hole, which, however, sel- 
dom happens, it may be easily caught, but is ex- 
ceedingly fierce in the first instance ; yet in a few 
days, it becomes perfectly domesticated, and is pleas 
ed with being caressed. It seldom drinks; it feeds 
on the grass which grows around its hole, and re- 
I mains torpid during the winter. These towns are 
i to be found in the large prairies about three hnndred 
1 miles west of the Mississippi, and are frequently 
1 more than a mile in lengtli. The situation chosen, 
i is generally dry, being on the slope of a hill, and at 
a distance from any water course. When a person 
approaches, he is assailed by the whole village, with 
a noise, which as I have mentioned, bears a resem- 
blance to the barking of small dogs. The animals 



118 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

are seen behind small hillocks at the side of their 
holes : on approaching within a few yards of one of 
these, the inhabitant instantly retreats to his sub- 
terraneous apartments. The wolves have declared 
war against these curious people, and frequently 
commit great havoc, in their little republics. 

The Gopher, (this name is also given to a species 
of terrapin,) is supposed to be a non-descript ; it 
lives under ground, in the prairies, and is also found 
east of the Mississippi. It bears resemblance to the 
mole, but is twice the size of that animal. It has 
at each jaw, a kind of bag, or purse, about one inch 
and a half in length, for the purpose of conveying 
food, or for carrying the dirt out of its hole. The 
quantity of earth thrown up, forms a number of 
small mounds through the prairies, of several feet 
in height. 

The Mligator, is too well known to require any 
thing to be said of him. He is not considered a fe- 
rocious or dangerous animal by the inhabitants. 
The numbers of this animal have lessened of late 
years from the destruction made by the inhabitants, 
who value their skins. 

The Cameleon, is very common ; and I am in- 
formed, that in the southern parts, both the scorpion 
and the tarantula exist. 

Of the feathered tribes, something may also be 
said. There is a beautiful bird called the prairie 
hen, which I think is not described. In winter it is 
found in large flocks, comes into barn-yards, and 
frequently alights on the houses of the villagers. It 
is somewhat larger than the pheasant of the United 

J^ote by Mr. JBradbnry. — If the Gopher is not the animal, des- 
cribed in the Systema NatuTce, as mv? bursorru^hy Linnxus, it i*y 
vet vindcscribcd. 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. lip 

States, ftetrao umhellus^J which it resembles some- 
what in colour, but in shape is much like the guinea 
hen : and differs from the pheasant in being easily 
domesticated. The flesh is dry, black, and by no 
means palatable. There is a bird on the Missouri, 
which bears a strong resemblance to the pheasant, 
but is nearly as large as a turkey hen; it is describ- 
ed as being a fine bird. I have seen a specimen of 
the Columbia partridge, of the most beautiful plu- 
mage. The magpie is found in abundance on the 
Missouri. 

In the settlements, and for a considerable distance 
up the Missouri, turkies stalk through the woods, 
in numerous flocks, but are rarely met with where 
the open country commences. Quails, tetrao mari- 
landica, are found every where. In the fall of the 
year all the lakes are literally covered with wild 
fowl ; ducks, geese, swans, cranes, and a variety of 
others. 

VEGETABLE PRODrCTIONS. 

I have already observed that an extensive field 
lies open to the botanist. There are even some con^ 
siderable forest trees, yet undescribed: there is par- 
ticularly one very beautiful, hois jaune^ or yellow 
wood : by some called the mock orange. In size, 
it equals that of the largest peach tree, and the 
leaves, though longer, are pretty nearly similar. 
The trunk is short, the limbs branching out low 
down. The fruit has some resemblance to the 
orange, but more spherical, and covered witli tu- 
bercles ; the colour, when at maturity, is a pale yel- 
low. This fruit has been deemed poisonous, but 
perhaps without reason : in its green state, it gives 
forth when cut, a milky fluid, which possesses a cor- 



120 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

rosive quality, blackening the knife, with which it 
is cut, like the pine apple. It would certainly be in 
gardens a highly ornamental tree ; Mr. Choteau, of 
St. Louis, has planted one in his garden, which 
thrives well. The tree is found on the Osage, Ar- 
kansas, and other places west of the Mississippi ; I 
have seen one near Natchitoches, on the Red river, 
it is found, in low, moist and swampy ground. The 
wood is remarkably heavy, scarcely yielding to lig- 
num vitje, and of a beautiful yellow. It might be of 
use in dyes, or for inlaying. It is in great request 
among the Indians, for war clubs, and for bows. 

There is a grape on the Missouri, found in the 
prairies, which ripens in the month of June, as far 
north as latitude 40 deg. It is very sweet and plea- 
sant. A hundred writers, have spoken of the vines 
of the Illinois, with strange exaggeration. This 
forms a part of the pictures of the romancing writers, 
who first described Louisiana. Father Hennepin, 
describes the sugar cane, as growing spontaneously, 
on the banks of the Mississippi, and tells of purple 
cluster of grapes, imparting their rich hues to the 
gliding wave. Notwithstanding the figure the vines 
of this country have made in description, they are 
very little different from those of the United States. 
Formerly a wretched sort of wine was made of the 
winter grape, but which is at present almost neglect- 
ed. These vintages were never considered of much 
importance. The wine was made by bruising the 
grapes in a large tub ; a heavy stone was then plac- 
ed on them, to press out the juice, which flowed 
through an opening at the bottom into a vessel pre- 
pared for its reception. 

Amongst the forest trees of this countiy, the ce- 
dar, (junipcrus virginiana,) the cotton wood, (popu- 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, kc, 121 

his aiig'uliseiis,) and the pecanne, (juglans olivse 
formis) deserve particular attention. The cedar 
grows ill gi'cat abundance and perfection. There 
arc fine groves on the Maramck, St. Francis, Mis- 
souri, and on tlie Mississippi. Some very large 
islands in the Missouri are covered with this tree. 
The houses in the villages are generally built of this 
wood, wiiich is also used for their enclosures. The 
cotton Avood (so called from a down which it casts oflf 
in tlie spring, with wliich the air is filled like fleeces 
of snow) does not appear to have attracted as much 
attention as it deserves. It is invariably found on 
the river bottoms of the Mississippi and Missouri, 
and after the Anllow, is the first tree which springs 
lip on alluvion soils. The more ancient islands of 
the rivers W'cst of the Mississippi, as w ell as on that 
river, are covei*ed with this tree ; it adds much to 
the beauty of the scenery, from its lofty and uniform 
appearance, and the deep green of its foilage con- 
trasted with the light colour of the river. The 
growth of this tree is extremely rapid ; it shoots up 
in the course of a few years, into a noble column, 
several feet in diameter, and forty or fifty in height, 
before it becomes lost in branches. It permits no 
part lately gained from the I'iver to remain long un- 
covered ; and will afford wood to the settlers of ad- 
jacent prairie, which could not otherwise be settled, 

JVute by Mr. Bradhurii. — On the Ohio and on the Mississippi, 
there are two kinds of irrapes, not found in the United States ; 
vitas cesth>aUs and vitis riparia; the last is a very fine grape. 
There are also two species on the Missouri, the one described, 
and a white grape sai 1 to be very fine. Tlie chang-e which all tlie 
American vines, undergo from culture, is truly surprising; kind 
and bounteous nature, seems to have furnished vines suited to eve- 
ry climate arid soil; so that no part of the human race should be 
denied tliis genial blessing. 

I. 



122 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

as it answers extremely well for rails and fuel. The 
pecanne, is found on the low grounds, where it 
grows to most perfection ; it is a large tree resem- 
bling somewhat the hickory, but has a more delicate 
leaf, its branches are m.ore numerous and spreading, 
is in every respect a more beautiful tree, and forms 
a principal ornament of the plantations on the lower 
parts of the Mississippi. There were formerly beau- 
tiful groves of it on the American bottom, (Illinois) 
but they have been nearly destroyed in order to pro- 
cure the nuts. The sugar tree facer saccharinusj 
is found in the present limits of the settlements, but 
not far to the west, or to the south. The cypress, 
magnolia, ever green oak, and a number of other 
trees, common in the vState of Louisiana, have been 
amply described by Barton and Michaud, 

Amongst the wild fruits of Louisiana, the plum 
lias been celebrated. They are in great abundance. 
Amongst the species of phims in Louisiana, and par- 
ticularly at some distance up the Missouri, there is 
none more interesting than the prairie plum, fprunus 
chickasaj wiiich literally covers tracts of groimd, of 
many acres in extent, and produces fruit so abun- 
dantly, as to bend down to the earth with its weight. 
There are others which deserve to be transplanted 
into our gardens ; the yellow plum is delicious. Mul- 
berries are very abundant, both on the Mississippi, 
and a considerable distance up the Missouri. The 
woods and prairies are every where overrun with 
strawberry vines ; the fruit is excellent. Le Haul 
Missouri^ (the upper Missouri, the name given it by 
the French traders) surpasses the other parts of tlic 
territory, in the variety of wild fruits ; plums, cher- 
ries, currants, and a variety of berriesc . 



«00K PRODUCTIONS, &c. 123 

Of flowers, and herbaceous plants, peculiar to 
there exists a great variety ; the natural conse- 
quence of the difference of habit, arising from the 
prairies, and flint knobs, which of course give birth 
to distinct tribes in the vegetable kingdom ; many of 
of which, could not exist in the umbrageous woods 
of the eastern states. But want of botanical skill, 
and the plan assumed for these cursory views, pre- 
vent me from entering into detail. White clover, 
grows wild in many parts of the country. In Upper 
Missouri, the plains are filled with hysop ; near the 
mountains, there is a species of flax which grows 
very abundantly. Hunters tell of some curious 
plants on the Arkansas, amongst which are the com- 
mon sun-flower, the bean, and the simblin, which 
grow there in their natural state. There is no rea- 
son to tliink this improbable, for these plants are 
known to be indigenous. 

MINERALS. 

If we denominate parts of the United States, by 
their predominating characters, and qualities; this 
territory may be called the country of minerals. 

A small quantity of gold, is said to have been 
found on the St. Francis, by an inhabitant of St» 
Genevieve ; it is probable, that some of the precious 
metals may be found, and it is certain that nearly 
all the useful ones exist in great abundance. A 
story is related of a wonderful metalic mass, on the 
Black river; this is not sufliciently attested, to me- 
rit mucli attention. The weight of the mass, be- 
ing disproportioned to its size, causes a curious de- 
ception to the Indians, who, in consequence, call it 
a manitou or spirit. A story similar to this, was 
told me bv an Arikara cliief, of a mass which he has 



124 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

frequently seen in a prairie near the Black moun- 
tains. Another has actually been brought down 
Red river, by some hunters ; it is probably native 
iron, — It is the prevailing opinion, that there is sil- 
ver, and numerous stories are related respecting it, 
A hundred places, where there is said to be silver 
ore, are indicated from the information of Indians 
and hunters ; on the Missouri, Arkansas, and on the 
waters of White river. Geographers have for a 
long time, agreed in placing a gold mine on the Ar- 
kansas; and, considering the precision with which 
it is marked on the map, it is surprising to me that 
some of our enterprising Americans do not aA ail 
themselves of it. Many accounts have been given 
of silver mines on the Red river, above the Cado na- 
tion. Du Pratz asserts positively, that silver ore 
was brought from thence in his time. 

When we view the space between the Rocky moun- 
tains, the Cordilleras, (which pervade New Mexico) 
and the rivers Missouri and Mississippi, a conjec- 
ture may be formed not altogetlicr unworthy of at- 
tention. Silver mines, it is well known, have been 
discovered north of the Cordilleras, and between 
them, according to the information of lieut. (now 
col.) Pike, they are actually wrought by the Spa- 
niards. From the resemblance, in the character 
and appearance of this country, to that which lies 
between the Cordillera? and the Missouri, besides, 
the connection of the different ridges, it seems pro- 
bable that the same minerals are common to both 
the southern and northern side of tliose mountains ; 
or at least disappear gradually towards the north and 
north east. The volcanic tract, perhaps, is the 
tract of precious minerals. This conjecture, how- 
ever, is liable to objections, and is therefore submit- 
ted with diffidence. 



BOOK 1, PRODUCTIONS, See. 125 

With more certainty I will venture to mark the 
situation and extent of the mineral tracts, or at least 
so much of them, as traverse the territory. Nearest 
to the Mississippi, and heginnin^i^ south on the St. 
Francis and White river, with its main course and 
diverging dependencies, perhaps two hundred miles 
in width, and six huntlred in length, is the tract of 
lead mineral ; perhaps the most extensive body of 
any mineral, known in the woi'ld. On all the great 
rivers which traverse this tract, the ore shews it- 
self, in their channels, in a variety of places ; as 
also in ravines where the soil has been carried off. 
TJiis is the case on the Maramek, the Gasconade, 
the Osage, on the Mine river of the Missouri, on the 
Missouri itself, on la rivere des Moines, and at 
length on the Mississippi, below tlie Ouisconsing. 
At this place it crosses the river, and is seen, though 
in small quantities, in places round the Michigan. 
There is very little doubt but that all this extent 
abounds in lead ore, and may afford thousands of 
the richest mines. 

The lead mines, at present wi'ought and produc- 
tive, are tiiose between the St. Francis, and the 
Maramek: extending over a tract of about sixty 
miles in length, and twenty in breadth : and those 
at the Ouisconsing, on the Mississippi, above the 
prairie du Chien. I reserve the description of the 
lii'st for a separate chapter. The mines of the 
prairie du Chien, are still in the lands of the Sacs 
and Foxes, and wrought by themselves exclusively ; 
jut in a very imperfect manner. Last year (1811) 
they made about five hundi'cd thousand weight, 
I vv'hicli they disposed of to traders. By some, these 
nines have been considered the richest yet opened. 
The Indians arc badly provided with tools for miii- 
1*2 



126 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

iiig ; a common hoe is almost the only instrument 
which they use. They merely scratch away the 
soil a few feet, and the ore may he said without ex 
aggeration, to he prized up, in the manner of stones 
in a quarry. The mode of smelting is equally rude. 
The ore is thrown on piles of wood, and the lead is 
afterwards gathered up in cakes, in the sliapes and 
forms, assumed hy melted lead, when carelessly 
thrown out on a hearth. It is afterwards melted by 
the traders, and made into pigs by the use of moulds. 
West of the tract of lead mineral, is that of the sa- 
lines : It runs parallel with the other, but goes fur- 
ther south, and not so far north. The extent is not 
well known. This tract affords the most numerous 
and best salines, of any part of North America. The 
number, on the Arkansas, and on the Osage, is sur 
prisingly great. At the salines on the last river 
there is a greater number of the enormous bones of 
the mammoth, and of other animals, now extinct, 
than at the Big Bone Lick, or in any other part of 
America. =^ I have already touched upon the extra- 
ordinary body of salt, near the Arkansas. This ap- 
pears to be the principal seat of the salines. The 
water of the Arkansas, itself, is brackish, and per- 
sons ascending, are obliged to provide themselves, 
from such streams and springs of fresli water, as 

* I am informed about two hundred miles from St. Louis. No 
collection has yet been made from this place. The bones are 
foimd in some places on the surface of the earth, and generally a 
few feet under gi-ound. The traditions said to prevail among-st 
the Indians on this subject, ai'C easily accounted for by those, who 
are acquainted with the custom amongst those people of invent- 
ing and relating amusing tales, like the Arabs. The big bones 
would naturally furnish a hint. I have heard several on this very 
subject more curious than those, which have been recited, as af- 
fording" evidence of Uie existence of the animal. 



=^i 



;'i 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. 1^?' 

put into it. Near the place, where this tract cros- 
ses the Arkansas, several streams enter it, which 
are strongly impregnated with salt ; among others, 
the Big Saline, arid the Strong Saline, both nearly 
one hundred yards in width. It is here that the Salt 
Rock is said to be found, and that salt prairies are 
known to exist. The Salt Rock (if there be such a 
thing) has not been described by any person, who 
has examined it. The notion of its existence was 
probably suggested by the solid masses of salt, found 
in low places, which have formed drains, or reser- 
voirs for the higher surrounding ground ; after the 
evaporation of the water, a crust of good salt is left 
in the bottom, congealed like ice. And of this, there 
appear to be accumulations. The colour is of the 
purest white ; there is usually a mixture of gypsum, 
and I have seen some pieces penetrated with sparry 
matter. Considerable quantities are also scattered 
over the prairies, in a pulverised state, resembling 
sand, and which is gathered by the Indians with the 
wing of a turkey. 

I do not mean by marking off these tracts, to con- 
vey the idea, that it is only in such parts, that cer- 
tain minerals exist, but merely as the predominating 
character, and where these minerals most abountl. 
Throughout every part of the territory, theie arc 
salines, but far below the great scale of those, in the 
tract which crosses the Arkansas and Osage rivers. 

The volcanic tract, may be placed west of the last, 
in the slope, and spurs of the Rocky Ridge. It was 
formerly conjectured from the pumice found float- 
ing on tbe Missouri, that some part of the country, 
traversed by this river, oi* its waters, was volcanic ; 
this still remains uncertain. There is no doubt but 
that many of these appearances arise from the burn- 



128 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ini^ of coal banks. Near the Mandans, there are 
places in which smoke is emitted from the high 
banks of the riA er, and putting down a stick into the 
fissure, lire is instantly communicated. I think it 
probable, that a close examination of the country, 
will discover traces of extinguislicd volcanoes. Mr. 
Lisa informed me, that he had been told by In- 
dians, and some of his hunters, that about sixty 
miles from his fort, on the Roche Jaune, at the en- 
trance of a river, there is a mountain whicli emits 
flames. This is about two hundred miles from tlie 
mouth of the Roche Jaune. In this part of the coun- 
try, lam well informed that great quantities of sul- 
phur can be procured ; it is found not only in caA^es, 
but can be scraped off the prairies in the manner of 
the salt. 

I have spoken of the minerals which are found 
in the greatest quantities, I shall now mention 
such, as are more thinly dispersed through the ter- 
litory. 

Copper, is certainly found on the Mississippi, be- 
tween la riviere des Moines and the Ouisconsing ; 
and several other jjlaces in the territory are men- 
tioned. There is iron ore on the St. Francis, on tlie 
Maramek, on the Osage, and in great quantities 
througliout the WIdte river country. On the St. 
Francis there are said to be huge masses like rocks. 
Several geutlemen who have examined specimens 
from these different places, do not think favourably 
of the ore, but I believe no proper trial of it has yet 
been made. 

There doubtless exists a variety of minerals, 
which a better acquaintance with the country will 
discover-, it has not been attentively examined by 
any skilful mineralogist. Mr. Bradbury, on a visit 



BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. 129 

to the mine a Burton, informed me that he found 
I those working at the mines, throwing away as use- 
i less, the blende ore of Zinc. The late Dr. Elliot, of 
I ^t. Genevieve,=^ informed me that an Indian had 
once brought him a specimen of antimony, but that 
he could not be prevailed upon by any offers to show 
the place where it was procured : believing, proba- 
bly, from the reward offered him, that it must be 
s«)mething of great value. 

Coal, seems to be a fossil common to every paii: 
of the valley of the Mississippi, the space between 
the range of mountains towards the Atlantic, and 
that towards the Pacific. It is found in every part 
of this territory. On the east side of the Missis- 
sippi, in the bluffs of the x\merican bottom, a tree 
taking fire some years ago, communicated it by one 
of its roots to the coal, which continued to burn, un- 
til the fire was at length smothered by the falling in 
I of a large mass of the incumbent earth. Tlie ap- 
pearance of fi.re, is still visible for several rods 
around. About two miles further up the bluffs, a 
fine coal bank has been opened ; the vein as thick as 
any of those near Pittsburgh. 

Salt petre has been made on the Gasconade, and 
there is no doubt, but that great abundance may be 
had throughout this country, which reposes on lime- 
stone, and is consequently cavernous. In caves, 
from the Missouri to the St. Francis, there are im- 
mense quantities of a pure silex, adhering like the 
solid rock ; it is as white as refined sugar, and so 

♦Formerly of Connecticut I cannot refrain from seizing- this 
opportunity of paying- a tribute to tlie memory of tliat excellent 
man. Possessed of a philosophic and enlig-htened mind, and the 
most amiable disposition ever gifted to amortul. He was formed 
to instruct and to be beloved 



130 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

much like it, that the difference is not discemable to 
the eye. I have seen a deception practised on a 
stranger, by giving him a lump and passing it for 
sugar. It crumbles with the pressure of the lingers i 
in the manufacture of glass, it may undoubtedly be 
of use. A beautiful serpentine^ of a red colour, is 
found about three hundred miles west of the Missis- 
sippi, near the lieads of la riviere des Moines and 
the St. Peters, and of which the Indians make their 
pipes. It is soft and easily cut into any shape in the 
first instance, but soon assumes the hardness of 
stone. A curious circumstance is connected with tliis 
and noticed by several writers. The Indians of dif- 
ferent tribes, no matter how inveterate or fierce 
their animosities, meet here, always in peace. In 
this sacred spot of general rendezvous, that most un- 
governable of savage propensities, revenge, is com- 
pletely subdued. 

There is marble in the territory in various pla- 
ces ; it resembles that which is commonly found in 
Kentucky ; but none of a superior quality has yet 
been discovered. On Bon Homme creek, about fif- 
teen miles from St. Louis, a quarry of stone was 
opened some time ago, said to equal the French burr. 
The mill stones procured here are thought by good 
judges to be of a superior quality, and it only re- 
mains for exj)erience to decide. 

Earths and clays of a rare and useful kind, have 
been found in different parts of the territory. Gyp- 
sum, may be had in any quantities, on the Mara- 
mek, Osage, Missouri, &c ; on the Kansas, I have 
been informed by hunters, there are whole bluffs com- 
posed of it. In the district of Cape Girardeau, 
there is a kind of clay, which in painting, answers 
tl^e purpose of Ochre. 






BOOK I. PRODUCTIONS, &c. 131 

I shall here notice a phenomenon frequently ob- 
served ; but without attempting a solution, which is 
left to the scientific. On the St. Francis, and in the 
"White river country, subterraneous explosions, have 
been heard, and their effects discerned. The sound 
is like that of cannon or distant thunder; and the 
earth and rocks appear to have been convulsed as 
though by the force of gun powder. The rocks 
blown up, are glazed with a shining matter, of me- 
tallic appearance. The same phenomenon has been 
observed on the Sabine, Washita, and other western 
rivers. 



CHAP. VIII. 

Indian natmis — trade — general enumeration. 

The Indian population has surprisingly diminish- 
ed, since the first settlement of the colony. There 
were many considerable nations or tribes whicli no 
longer exist, and others have dwindled to a few^ indi- 
viduals who wander along tlie banks of the river, 
from place to place, without any settled habitation. 
On the arrival of Iberville, the Baya Goulas, near the 
mouth of the Mississippi, had upwards of seven hun- 
dred families in their principal town, and a very cu- 
rious description of their temple is given by Charle- 
voix. The chevalier de Tonti, in his first voyage, 
paid a visit to tlie Tensas, who lived on the lake 
which now bears that name, and to his surprize en- 
tered a town laid off with considerable regularity, 
and very populous. He found the king surrounded 
by a guard of sixty men, and exhibiting a kind of 
state, something like that of Powetan, the Virginia 
monarch. On a visit to the temple, he saw their sa- 
cred fire, and found their worship precisely similar to 
that of the Mexicans. The account given of these 
people is very curious : one of their superstitious 
rites might be safely imitated by civilized people. 
Every spring they went in a body to the deepest 
part of the forest, and for several days occupied 
themselves to the sound of their musical instruments, 
in clearing a piece of ground, which they called 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, &c 1> 

their place of spirits, where they performed their in- 
cantations. By this means, they had a numher of 
heautiful fields around their town» 

The J\*atckex>, of whom we have spoken, were es- 
timated at three thousand warriors. The Mou- 
rn as, the AVabashas, the Tarakas, the Kappa, the 
Abenagis, the Tacucas, are the names of tribes long 
since extinct. The Osages, resided in twenty -two 
villages on the Missouri, and on the river which 
bears their name : and for several hundred miles, 
the borders of the former were extremely populous. 
The Illinois, now extinct, could once number twenty 
thousand souls. When I say populous, I speak com- 
]iaratively : for the whole, did not amount to a tenth 
of tbe whites, who now occupy a country, which is 
still a wilderness. 

In the Missouri territory, there are two or three 
Shawanese villages, a sober and orderly people. On 
tlie waters of White river, there are a number of 
Cherokees and other southern Indians, who have 
migrated to this quarter within a few years. Strag- 
glers may be seen at all seasons of the year, about 
the villages of the whites, or on the banks, who sub- 
sist by vending the produce of their hunting, to the 
people who descend the river. 

The diminution of the numbers of these Indians 
Was produced by the intercourse of the whites with 
the more northern, who being supplied with fire 
arms, assailed the defenceless and peaceable inhabi- 
tants of the Mississippi valley. This work of de- 
struction, must have been going on for nearly a cen- 
tury before Europeans had any acquaintance with 
the interior. The Iroquois were in the habit of 
making war excursions, even as far as the Natches. 
The intercourse of the traders, has been uniformly 

M 



134 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

most pernicious to these people. No sooner do the 
Indians receive their extraordinaiy supply of arms 
and ammunition, than they become restless and pre- 
pare for war ^ elated beyond measure, these chiidren 
of nature, can never be contented until they have an 
opportunity of making a trial of tlieir w eapons. 

The Indians on the waters of the Missouri, who 
at piesent amount to about thirty thousand, were 
also much more numerous ; but their diminution was 
caused about forty years ago, ])y the ravages of the 
small pox. All the tribes which at this day wander 
over the immense plains of the west, are but wretch- 
ed remnants, not probably more than the tenth of 
the numbers which existed fifty years ago. These 
western barbarians, like those of Asia, were in all 
probability, the enemies to the progress of agricul- 
ture and civilization, on the fertile borders of the 
Mississippi and Ohio. Witliin a few years past, 
their numbers have been increasing rapidly. Not- 
withstanding the formidable list I have given in the 
subjoined table, these tribes are scattered over sucli 
an immense space as scarcely to be noticed in it. I 
could not help reflecting on the unequal distribution 
of the human race, when I descended the Missouri 
river a thousand miles, without meeting a human be- 
ing. 

The on\y Jixed or agricultural villages on the Mis- 
souri, are those of the Osage, Mahas, Poncas, Pa- 
nis, Arikaras, and Mandans ; and all on the south 
w est side of the river. On the Blue earth river, and 
in the forks of the Kansas, there are several villages 
of the nation of that name, the Pani villages below 
the mouth of Wolf river, and a village of Ottos and 
Missouris. Yet even some of these, are abandoned 
for a great part of the summer season, and their iiilia- 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, kc. 135 

bitants wander through the phiins; generally en 
masse, carrying with them all their property, ex- 
cepting their corn, and a few bulky articles which 
they deposit in hiding places. Their baggage is 
more cumbrous, than would be imagined, and em- 
ploys a great number of dogs and horses in its trans- 
portation from place to place. 

All the other nations lead a life similar to that of 
the shepherds of Asia; it is true, they do not drive 
domestic herds to the places where the best pastur- 
age may be found, but what amounts nearly to the 
same thing, they follow the instinctive migrations of 
the buffaloe, feed npon his flesh and kindle their 
fires with his ordure. The great object of serious 
employment in these nations, the ruling passion, is 
a thirst for mutual destruction. The great distance 
to which their war parties wander in pursuit of this 
darling gratification is indeed surprising ; eight hun- 
dred or a thousand miles is not an unusual journey. 
It is only, however, on women and children, and on 
parties taken by surprize, that their attacks prove 
really bloody and destructive. In their more regu- 
lar engagements, or battles, where there is some- 
thing like equality in the adverse parties, they en- 
gage, generally on horseback, in a manoeuvering 
fight, in which they display wonderful activity and 
skill on both sides, so much so, that they do each 
other very little harm. A battle between three and 
four hundred men on eacli side, will continue a whole 
day, and be at Icngtii terminated by tlie death of two 
or tliree, and as many wounded. In this they bear 
a strong resemblance to tlie Arabs ; it is the result 
of the theatre of war on which they engage, the open 
plains, and not the want of courage. 



1S6 VIEWS OF LOmSIANA. 

Nearly all the nations of the north west side, arA 
descendants of the Sioux, and at peace with each 
other, but with scarcely an exception, at war with 
those on the south west side. These nations have 
considerable trade or traffic witli each other. The 
Sioux have for this purpose regular fairs, or assem- 
blages, at stated periods. The same thing prevails 
with the nations on the south west side of the Mis- 
souri. Those towards the south, have generally vast 
numbers of horses, mules, and asses, which they ob- 
tain in trade, or war, from the Spaniards, or nations 
immediately bordering on New Mexico. These ani- 
mals are chiefly transferred to the nations north 
east of the river, by such of the southern tribes as 
happen to be on good terms with them, who obtain 
in Exchange European articles, procured from the 
British traders. Their stock of hoises requires to 
be constantly renewed by thefts or purchases : from 
the severity of the climate and the little care taken 
of the young, the animal would otherwise be in dan- 
ger of becoming extinct. Their mode of trading 
with each other is perfectly primitive. Their is no 
bargaining or dispute about price ; a nation or tribe 
comes to a village, encamps near it, and after de- 
monstrations on both sides, of a thousand barbarous 
civilities, as sincere as those which are the result of 
refinement, one of the parties makes a general pre- 
sent of all such articles as it can conveniently spare ; 
the other a short time after makes in return a simi- 
lar present, the fair is then concluded by a variety 
of games, sports and dances. They hold the mode 
of trading by the whites, in great contempt ; they 
say it displays a narrow and contemptible soul to be 
weighing and counting every trifle. In their trade 
the price is usually fixed by the chief and his council, 
and the nation as well as ti^adcrs must submit,. 



BOOK L INDIAN NATIONS, &c, 137 

Their arms consist principally of bows, spears, 
clubs, and light fusees. But tlie bow, particularly 
in hunting, is still the principal weapon. Like all 
savages they are superstitious. It appeared to me 
that if they had any particular object of adoration it 
was the buff aloe head. They place it in every holy 
or sacred spot of ground, and each lodge or tent, has 
one or two, to which the whole family seems to pay 
the utmost reverence. 1 saw in the village of the 
Mandan chief, She-he-ke, in an open space before 
the temple or medicine lodge, an enclosure of about 
six feet square, in which were four of these heads on 
elevated mounds of earth. 

I had not sufficient time to form any idea of their 
languages, but from what I was able to learn, there 
are about six primitive ones : it is very probable 
that a more accurate scrutiny would discover of 
those, several common to other nations of the conti- 
nent. It appeared to me that the Snake Indians, both 
in language and iu appearance were different from 
any Indians I had ever seen. In the sound of the 
language there is a good deal of resemblance to those 
of Africa which I have heard. I am informed that 
copious vocabularies have been made by Lewis and 
Clark, of nearly all the Indian languages of the Mis- 
souri, As their journal is expected shortly to ap- 
pear, I shall not publish the collection made by me, 
which must necessarily be much inferior to theirs, 
they having had more time and much greater oppor- 
tunities. 

The trade with the western Indians will claim 
some observations in this place. Under the Spanish 
government, the conniption of its officers counte- 
nanced the most shameful ahuses in this department. 
The trader obtained an exclusive privilege from the 
M 2 



13b VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Intendant at New-Orleans, for the tirade of a parti- 
cular liver or tribe, for which he gave a handsome 
douceur. In fact, it came in time to be a matter of 
purchase to be obtained by the highest bidder. In 
consequence, the trader was compelled to demand an 
exhorbitant price for his goods, which induced the 
Indians to take by force what they could not buy. 
Had this system continued much longer, it would 
have put an end to the traffic altogether. The En- 
glish fur companies could afford their goods at much 
lower prices, and frequently instigated the Indians to 
pillage the Spanish traders who ascended the river. 
The British policy has been, (at least of these com- 
panies) to give tlieir goods on a very small profit, 
but to sell their liquors enormously high. After an 
Indian has once supplied himself, with the articles 
which he stands in immediate want, he becomes lazy 
and ceases to hunt ; but with the hope presented to 
his imagination, of obtaining a keg of whiskey, he 
will toil incessantly. 

The tradei's were in the habit of passing them- 
selves off for chiefs of the whites, and always deli- 
vered a talk from the '^ Great Father." But their 
conduct brought them into contempt, which was ex- 
tended to all the whites. It had been customary to 
give credits to the Indians, and the trader on return- 
ing to the nation, sometimes found that the skins in- 
tended for him, had been already obtained by some 
rival ; a fight now ensued, to the great diversion of 
the Indians. It was usual to ascend the river in au- 
tumn, and remaining until spring, at some place of 
convenient resort, they descended to St. Louis on the 
breaking up of the ice. There were no forts estab- 
lished by the government to keep the tribes in check 
and impress them with a favorable opinion of the 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, 8cc 13^ 

whites. The only permanent trading establishment, 
was that of M. Choteau, on the Osage river. Others 
wintered at the Mahas, Poncas, or at other jioints of 
the Missouri. A trader of the name of L'Oiselle, 
had a fort at Cedar island, in the country of the 
Sioux, about twelve himdred miles up, which was 
then tlie highest point at which any establishments 
had been made. 

On the change of government, this trade was 
thrown open to all who chose to engage in it. At 
the same time, to remedy the evils which had sprung 
up from the erroneous policy before pursued, three 
forts were established ; one on the Mississippi, at 
the Wisconing; for the purpose of keeping the In- 
dians in check in that quarter, and preventing tlie 
British traders from passing into their countiy, and 
exerting the enmity of tliose people against us, with 
the sordid view of posi»essing their trade exclusively* 
Another was established near the river des Moines,, 
about two hundred miles above the mouth of the Mis* 
souri, and a third near the Kansas on this river. At 
each of these, agents or factors, were established 
with stated salaries, for the purpose of supplying 
the Indians with merchandise purchased by the Uni-^ 
ted States. The intention of these establishments, 
cei-tainly deserve commendation ; they are foundea 
on benevolence, but it is very doubtful whether they 
answer any good purpose. The design is to su])ply 
the Indians at the first cost, after deducting the mere 
expensei of the establishments. A wide field is,, 
however, opened to abuses, and the stiff precise 
mode of conducting the trade, is not pleasing to the 
Indians, who receive some things as presents from 
the trader, by which they are disposed to give more 
for others. There is besides, an impropriety in tl\j» 



140 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

appearance of competition with the traders : every 
piji'pose was answered hy opening the trade to all 
persons ot enterprize. Jf it be supposed, that any 
thing iiLc gratitude is excited aniong the Indians by 
this kindness, it is a gieai niistalve ; they uniformly 
spcait of these establishments with contempt, and 
when they resort to them, it is most usually with their 
worst peltries ; tlie best being reserA ed for the tra- 
ders. 

There is an abuse which our government ought 
not to overlook, and that is, the number of white 
hunters, who Irequent the Indian country. They 
are much more skilful and industrious, and there- 
fore destroy the game, upon which the Indians sub- 
sist. This destruction, of late, has been surprisingly 
great. I should not wonder, if in a few years, un- 
less a stop be put to this practice, the Indians would 
not be able to procure any thing to exchange for our 
merchandize. 

The nwmber of forts established to the westward 
is undoubtedly too small. There ought to be one 
near the mouth of the Platte, one at the Cedar 
island, one on the Arkansas, and a fourth on the ri- 
ver St. Peters. A company of men might be kept up 
at each of these places, and would have the most be- 
neficial eflfec^ on the Indians. 

Notwithstanding the freedom of trading was open 
to all, on possession being taken by the United States, 
it was not untU after the return of Lewis and Clark 
from their expedition that any perceptible change 
took place. Mr. Manuel Lisa, an enterprising gen- 
tleman of St. Louis, was the first to venture towards 
the source of the Missouri for the pui'pose of trading. 
His own capital not being adequate to the imdertak- 
ing, he was joined by two or three gentlemen of St 



ROOK I INDIAN NATIONS, &c. Ul 

Louis. A brief account of his expedition, as it may 
be considered somewhat connected with the fur trade 
of Louisiana, may not be uninteresting in this place. 

He set off in the spring following the return of 
Lewis and Clark. Besides his own boats tliere 
were two others in company, which constituted a to- 
lerable force. These trading expeditions are very 
different from journeys of discovery ; the trader has 
unruly hands to manage, who think themselv es per- 
fectly at liberty when out of the reach of law : with- 
out discipline, badly armed, and not coming to the 
nations, for the purpose of making presents. 

At the river Platte, Lisa met one of Lewis and 
Clark's men, of the name of Coulter, who had 
been discharged at the Mandan villages, at his own 
request, that he might make a hunt before he return- 
ed. Coulter was persuaded to return ; his knowledge 
of the country and nations rendered him an acquisi- 
tion. Lisa passed the country of the Sioux, without 
finding any of that nation. On his arrival at the 
Arikara villages, his reception was such as to call 
for great prudence and courage. Two or three hun*- 
d red warriors were drawn up, and on his approach, 
such as had fire arms discharged a volley before his 
boat, to indicate the place where he should land. He 
accordingly put to shore, but made it known, that no 
one of them was to enter his boat: while the chiefs 
appointed warriors to stand guard and keep off the 
crowd. The women, who always trade amongst 
these nations, came to the beach with bags of corn, 
an Indian rushed forward, cut open the bags with his 
knife, while the women took to flight* Lisa, who 
was perfectly acquainted with the Indian character, 
knowing that the least appearance of alarm would be 
dangerous, instantly called his men to arms, pointed 



142 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

a couple of swivels which were fixed on his boats, 
and made every preparation for defence. The In- 
dians perceiving this, dispersed in confusion ; and 
after some time, the chiefs approached with pipes of 
peace, exteiided before them in their hands. Lisa 
inakin.5 signs of reconciliation, they came to him, and 
according to their custom, stroked him on the shoul- 
ders, begging him not to be displeased, declaring 
that the Indian who had offended him was consider- 
ed a bad man. This had a good effect, and enabled 
him to proceed on his voyage without further moles- 
tation. 

On his arrival at the first Mandan village, he de- 
termined to proceed through the others, which 
are situated at intervals along the river, in the dis- 
tance of about twenty miles, while his boats conti- 
nued to ascend. At this village, he held the usual 
council with the chiefs, and presented them a few 
rolls of tobacco, and other articles, and was permit- 
ted to continue his journey. At the tliird village, 
his presents were rejected, and the chief demanded 
some powder, which was refused : Lisa, knew that 
his life was in no danger while his death could not 
procure them his goods, and resisted their repeated 
solicitations in a bold and firm manner ; he told them 
that they might kill him, but that his property would 
be safe. They were finally compelled to accept of 
such presents as he offered. 

A few days after, having passed the Mandans, he 
espied the Assineboin nation approaching, in a body 
of four or five thousand souls. These wandering 
people had learned from their sconts, the approach 
of traders. The whole prairie, to use his expres- 
sion, was red with them; some oil horseback, others 
on ioot, and all painted for war. His situation re* 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 143 

quired the utmost boldness and intrepidity. He 
charged his swivels and made directly across to the 
savages, and \vhen he had come within an hundred 
yards, tlie match was put, while there was at tlie same 
time, a general discharge oi small ai ms. 1'uis was 
intended to strike them with terror; the cftVctwas 
ludicrous, they fell hack, tumbled over each otiier, 
and lied to the hills with precipitation. A few of the 
waVriors and chiefs only remained. The pipe of 
peace was presented, and matters concluded amica- 
bly. He continued his voyage to the Yellow fetonc 
river, which he ascended about one hundred and se- 
venty miles, to the Big Horn river, where he built a 
trading fort. He shortly after dispatched Coulter, 
the hunter before mentioned, to bring some of the In- 
dian nations to trade. This man, with a pack of 
thirty pounds weight, his gun and some ammunition, 
went upwards of five hundred miles to the Crow na- 
tion; gave them information, and proceeded from 
thence to several other tribes. On his return, a party 
of Indians, in whose company he happened to be, 
was attacked, and he was lamed by a severe wound 
in the leg ; notwithstanding w hich, he returned to 
the establishment, entirely alone and without assis- 
tance, several hundred miles. Yet such instances of 
intrepidity would not be regarded amongst the peo- 
ple, as any way extraordinary. How should tliose 
blush, who are continually whining about the little 
inconveniences and privations of common life ! Lisa 
remained nine months at this place. He returned to 
St. Louis, having indemnified himself for his voyage, 
as the north side of the Missouri was much more 
abundant in furs, and of a more valuable quality. 

After the return of Lisa, the favorable reports 
which he made, induced a number of gentlemen to 



144 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

turn their attention to this trade, and in a short time 
a company was formed under the name of *' the 
Missouri Fur Company,- of this association Lisft, 
became a member, and has been one of the most ac- 
tive and useful. The company was composed of ten 
persons; but the capital was greatly inadequate, 
not exceeding forty thousand dollars. Having col- 
lected about two hundred and fifty men, they ascend- 
ed the Missouri ; left trading establishments with 
the Sioux, the Arikaras, and Mandans, but the 
principal part proceeded to the three forks of the 
Missouri, the country most abounding in beaver, 
as their intention was to hunt as well as trade, tlie 
principal part of their men being hunters. They 
had not been long here until they found their hopes 
entirely frustrated by the hostilities of the Black- 
feet Indians, a numerous tribe, who had unfortunate- 
ly been rendered inimical to the Americans by an 
unlucky aJBfair, in which Lewis and Clark, on their 
return, had killed two or three of their nation ; be- 
sides, probably instigated by the British companies. 
A party of fifteen or twenty hunters were attacked 
by surprise, and nine killed. The greatest precau- 
tion was found necessary in going out to hunt, they 
were at length so much hari*assed by the savages, as 
to be compelled to remain altogether at tlieir fort, or 
to venture but a short distance from it. It is sup-, 
posed that in the different renconters with these sa- 
vages, at least twenty of the whites were killed, and 
nearly twice that number of the others. Thus a 
most implacable enmity has been uniformly excited, 
which will for a long time, exclude our traders and 
hunters, from that part of the western country by 
far the most favorable for their pursuits. It is sup- 
posed that bad they continued unmolested, the com- 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 145 

paiiy would have brought down the first year, three 
hundred packs of beaver alone. Instead of which 
there were scarcely twenty. The following spring 
a considerable number of the party descended tbe ri- 
ver; the remainder continued until autumn, when, 
fearing a general attack, and finding the situation 
otherwise exceedingly irksome, Mr. Henry, one of 
the company, who now commanded the party, re- 
solved to cross the mountains, and winter on some 
of the branches of the Columbia; this he accordingly 
effected, but not without suffering every possible 
liardshi]), from hunger, cold, and fatigue. In the 
mean time, the company suffered considerable loss 
from the accidental burning of one of the factories; 
this was estimated at fifteen thousand dollars. The 
establishments at the Mandans and Arikaras, 
brought no profit. In the spring of the year 1811, 
the third, and by tlie time fixed for the duration of 
the association, the last, an expedition was fitted out 
by the company, the command of which was given 
to Lisa, whom I accompanied. By his prudence and 
good management, the affairs of the company were 
in some measure retrieved. After remaining some 
time at the Mandan villages, he was joined by Mr. 
Henry and all his party, w ho brought about forty 
packs of beaver. Leaving trading establishments 
at the Mandans, Arikaras, and witli the Sioux, he 
descended to St. Louis. It appeared that at the ter- 
mination of the third year, notwithstanding all 
these unforeseen difliiculties and misfortunes, the 
company had saved its capital, and had, besides, the 
establishments before mentioned. I Iiave been in- 
formed that the company has been renewed, and its 
capital considerably enlarged. 



146 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Such is the present situation of the Indian trade. 
Besides, the Missouri company, there are many in- 
dividuals, Avho trade with nations on the Mississippi, 
or on the Missouri, as high as the Mahas. There 
are few of the Indian trihes who hunt 5 they have 
hitherto had little encouragement ; and hesides, the 
continual w ars which prevail amongst them, renders 
it impracticable. 

A well regulated company, with sufficient capital, 
would in a very short time draw immense profits 
from the Indian trade of the Mississippi and Mis- 
souri. A very great pi'oportion of the North West 
Company's trade, would find its w ay down those ri- 
vers. Tlie city of New-York is highly interested ; 
its situation may render it the rival of Montreal in 
this trade; the climate of New-Orleans is unfavour- 
able to furs and peltries. N ear the heads of all the 
western rivers, tributary to the Mississippi and 
Missouri, there are immense numbers of the beaver, 
muskrat, otter, and other furred animals. 'An ex- 
tensive company, well established, might count upon 
a thousand packs annually, besides a vast number 
of buifaloe robes, which will be found of much use in 
the slave states, as a cheap and comfortable bedding 
for negroes. The buff aloe would furnish other ar- 
ticles of trade, wool, horns, tongues, &c. which 
would also be considerable. Wolf, bear, elk, and 
deer skins, might be had in immense quantities. It 
requires no gift of prophecy to tell, that such a com- 
pany will not be long in forming. 

1 have subjoined a table, shewing at a glance the 
Indian nations of Louisiana, their numbers, trade, 
kc. 



i 



BOOK. L 



INDIAN NATIONS. &c. 



147 















OD to H* ^ to 


t-i 




Avi 
Padoii 
Kan-n 


Arika 
Mand: 
A wa-l 
Minet 

Wute- 




BigO 
Little 
band ( 
Kansa 
Panis 
Panis 
Panis 
Maha 
Ponca 
Ottos 
Chyer 




iwas 

icas . . 
e-na-wish 


1 
P 

CO 


ras . . 
ms . . . 
Iiaa-ways 
ares . . 






1 


Osuge 
Df Big Tra 
s . . . 
Loup . . 
Republica 
Loup . 
s . . . 
iS . . . 






• _ ' 


p 
3 






. 


5. 


' . ' ^ 










fi^ 








Cfl' 




75 


___ 





Of C/3 to 




<y> 00 00 




Or? 




(-4 

KD 00 03 *^ 00 Ut 




< 

2? 


o o o 




O C/t Ot o 




O 00 


00 O^ O Ot o o o 




ooo 








ooooooooo 


___ 




0\ ^-^ 




lO KD 03 




^-1 




l-» >-« 


60 H-4 Ol 




o 


ooo 




0> 00 o o 




o^ 


.f^4^coa,a>ootOY 




P 


ooo 




c o o o 




o 


C^ Or, O O' o 


ooo 




ST 


ooo 




_o^c_o_o 




o o o o o o 


ooo 







■poo 


— - 


O Oj ^-i t-' 




p 


o 


O IT. O O 


3- O O 






^33 




3 cr>4^ 






3 


n the Kansas 

n Wolf river, of the Platte 
ighty leagues above the P 
n the Missouri at the Qui Co 


;z 3 3 






2=i?3- 




^3.882,^ 


3" 


^^B'B' 






ePado 
e Pado 
idering 
Yellow 




miles up the Missouri 
miles up the Missouri 
les above tlie Mandans 
life li. 6 miles from Man 


3" 
O 

3- 


3 

5- 




eOsag 
e Kans 
on the 






ncas fork 
ncas 

people, on the h 

Stone river 




ft 

r5 


§ 


f6 

3 

! 

3* 
fD 

w 


e, Missouri & Ai 
as river 
Platte and Kans 




3 

4 






f 






o 

3 


§1 


. I" 






CP 




Cfl 




CU 




a n 




















NO 




"i 






l-i 








t^ to 


CT) Oo o 




2 






•Ot 


O 






Ot O (^ 


8 88 




3- 






o o 














oo 






ooo 


ooo 






"*" 








~~ 




>-* 00 


"""" 









oo h^ 






h-i -^ 00 


O Cft o 




P3 






















o o 






ooo 


ooo 








o o 






ooo 


ooo 




r*" 


littl< 

the 
bit a 
ingi 


(T) 


-the 
trad 
able 




T 

p 




VJk 


-tra 
atF 
the 






3 intercom-se w 
whites ; but ini 
L country aboui 
n game. 


CO 

3 

&. 
O 
3 
to 

< 


ge. 

! value of th 
e very inconsid 


0- 
ft) 
p 

n 
> 

1 




uncil Bluffs woi 
, proper place 
rading establi 

t. 


de at the Fact 
ort Osage, and 
Osage river. 




3 

en 


f?^ 


H- 




P 

s 




HL ?f5 r- 

r ^5 p- 


_ o 

o ^ 

3 '< 







148 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 



2 ^ ^ ""^ 

' c2 :2 ^ .ti 












2 11 

^ ■ P^ 'Si 

: (U fi 0) 

o 



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8.i 



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PL( tj ^ Jh ^ 

+-> P CO -H K*^ 



*^ n=1 fe 



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5J C +3 



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en 



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- ■ t:) 

tj_ >i^ ,1> "3 'rj 



o _ 



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o o 



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<i; j^ ^ ^ 

o o 



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o o o o 

V5 ^rj »0 O 

c^ CO *n (^ 



o o 
o o 
o in 

00 IQ 



o o 
o o 
o o 

i-H 'n 



o o 

o o 



o o o o 

o o o o 

CO OJ VJ lO 



o o 
o o 
o a> 



o o 

o o 

CO o 



5:^ 



5 « 

>- (11 



C .S o «> ^^ 




BOOK r. 



INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 



149 



re ?i 
o 

(T) 



cn ^ cn 

erg § 

P "^ (T) 



to rf^ t-' O O 

o o o o o 



to 03 

o o 
o o 



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o o c 

o o c 



a> 00 
o o 

o o 



a> 60 t^ 

O Crt O 

o o o 

o o o 



o o 

3 3 



3 c^'L^^ 






2 > 
o 5 S- 



^ o 
o S- 



I O -^ 3 

o 3 >-i 

re ^ 



2 p- 



re ^ 

^- re 



B-B- 

o re 
2-^ 



re s' 



2.P- 



P-3 



o 

3 

2. H- 2 



53 
o 



X ^ 3 £. re ^ 
2.3 §^*^ 

re^ re ^ 

2. tr ^. re 

w . re «•-■ re 



r^ 



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o o 

o o 



C3 to 

o o 

o o 

o o 



(-* 03 

c- o 

§8 



00 



o o o 
o o o 

OOP 



p^^ I t ^,' 

o s^ I p -:- 
cc 3 d' ^ S- 

re «■- r- S <^ 

re f^ t £L 3- 

« Is 
tr' 2^ re 

re '^ 
as w 3 
'< p 



re 



re 9-^3 
s» 3"c 

3 re ^ 



re 



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re ^^ 

4^ 



P o 



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S-5 > ^ 
r-re7 5* 



^3 



N 2 



.150 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA 







p. 


o 


c 


(L) 


^ 


=ff 


2 




i1 


03 


a> 


o 


C-r5 




O 




J3 




X 


« 


(1) 


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t5. 
1^ 




t>» 


■*-> 


a> 






f 










t 


o 





OT 4; o 
o .S <u 

1-1.1 d 




>^q 



•a ^ 

a> <t) C 
■1-' "*-^ >^ 
o o ^^ 

?; fe o 



£ 

o 

•r; o 
HP 



;3 C 

0:3 



n3 






<U O en O ^ C O 



£ rt o 
^.'"^ s 

« g C 
rO +-' --r) 

.S o g 



o 

O b5 



^1 



5 2-5 S 



3 <^ O 3 -t-" 



•aos 



c' O ^ 



o 

ca 



o o o o o 

O V5 *0 C^ T? 
CN CN CS) CO C<) 



o o o o o o o 

^O 00 00 O 00 o o 






<U (Zi O 

^ oj o 



^ij H ;is. n <; ^ j4 




BOOK I. 



INDIAN NATIONS, &c 



151 



Alibamas "^ 
Conchatas | 
Pacsmas 
Atta-ka-pas . 
Oppe-lou-sas f ' ' 
Tunicas 
Tensas 
Washas J 

Chactas .... 


1 


8 


1 


O 


1 


TThese are scattered remnants 
J of tribes, who reside in the state 
j of Louisiana; in the whole they 
tdo not exceed 400 warriors 

r Scattered over every part of^ 
< the state of Louisiana, from C 
C Mobile to the Sabine 3 


05 
2 

1 




1 




* 


ri am unable to form any 
< estimate of the value of 
C their trade. 


3 

1 



152 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Osage, — They call themselves Wasashe, are di~ 
vided into three hands ; 1. The Great Osage, 2. Lit- 
tle Osage, 3. The hand of '^ Big Track," from a 
chief who left the nation some years ago, and is now 
settled on the Arkansas. Their language may be 
considered the primitive of several others, which are 
spoken by neighboring nations, without any great 
difference ; as the Arkansas, Kansas, and Mahas. 
Their trade is principally in deer skins, bear skins, 
beaver, otter, muskrat, and the buffaloe. 

These people have been noted for their uncommon 
stature; this is somewhat exaggerated, though they 
are undoubtedly above the ordinary size of men. 
The wandering or semi-wandering nations of Louis- 
iana, may be characterized as exceeding in stature 
the whites. The Osages are reputed warlike, but 
this arises from their being at war with all their 
neighbors, and not from any uncommon degree of 
bravery. When compared with the Shawanese, and 
the nations east of tlie Mississippi, they might with 
more propriety be regarded as a treacherous and 
cowardly race. 

Kansas, — A few years ago they were the greatest 
scoundrels of the Missouri, robbing traders, and ill- 
treating the whites, but since about two years, in 
consequence of a severe defeat from the Panis, in 
which tlieir greatest warriors fell, they have been 
humbled. They are brave, and are esteemed great 
warriors. They have their villages on the Kansas 
river. The country which they inhabit abounds 
with beaver, but they do not hunt much. They 
speak tlie Osage language with some difference of 
dialect. 

OttoeSf fTVa-(look-ta-da,J — They are the descen- 
dants of the ancient Missouris, and speak their Ian- 



BOOK t INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 153 

guage, which is remarkably lofty and sonorous. — 
They are not numerous, but esteemed brave and 
warlike. They reside fifteen leagues up the river 
Platte, and live in community and friendship with 
the Panis. 

Missouris — The remnant of one of the most nu- 
merous nations of the Missouri, and who have given 
tlieir name to the river. They are reduced to about 
eighty warriors. They reside with the Ottoes. 
Their village was formerly at the mouth of the Grand 
river. 

Pajii Proper — A much more friendly and civilized 
people than those just described : they treat their 
traders and the whites generally with remarkable 
hospitality, have frequent intercourse with the Spa- 
niards, and live about thirty leagues from the mouth 
of the river Platte, and in two villages. The Coun- 
cil Bluffs on the Missouri would be a good place for 
a trading establishment for these people. They have 
but faint ideas of the exclusive right of soil, and 
have no fixed boundary ; in which, they resemble 
the greater part of these nations. They hunt on the 
rivers Platte and Kansas ; their country very little 
wooded, but of a beautiful surface, consisting of open 
plains. 

The Pani Loups, reside on the Wolf river, thirty- 
six leagues from its mouth. There is said to be a 
good deal of timbered land between this river and 
the Corne-de-Cerf, or Elk horn, principally pine and 
shrubby oak. The two rivers just mentioned, af- 
ford excellent navigation ,* the Wolf river rises in a 
lake, or rather a large fountain. 

The Pani, Republican, a small band which cece- 
ded from the nation a few years ago, reside on thft 
Republican fork, of the Kansas river. 



154 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Mahas^ for Oo-ma-haJ — .Reside on the Maha 
creek, about eighty leagues above the Platte, in tbeir 
village, and raise corn, a friendly and industrious 
people, and have a considerable trade. Their lan- 
guage originally Osage. All the Sioux bands, ex- 
cept the Yanktons, make war upon tliem. Their 
numbers have been reduced within the last ten years. 

Poiicas — Originally Maha; village a short dis- 
tance below the Qui Courre. They were almost 
destroyed by the Sioux, their village broken up, 
and they were compelled to be altogether wander- 
ing ; but within a few years, they have re-establish- 
ed their village, and are increasing rapidly. 

Jlrikara — Live 1440 miles up the Missouri, in two 
villages, an industrious people, but from the attacks 
of their neighbors, are unable to hunt any other but 
the bulfaloe, though their country abounds in game. 
They are at present on very friendly terms with the 
whites, though guilty a fev/ years ago of an outrage 
on a party commanded by lieut. Prior. In my jour- 
nal I have dwelt a good deal on the customs and cha- 
racter of these people, which in many respects are 
peculiar and highly interesting. They were origin- 
ally Pani. 

Mandans, or Gros Ventres — The remnants of a 
number of villages, according to their account, se 
venteen. They claim only the small portion of 
country which they actually occupy ; in this, resem- 
bling the Arikaras. They still consist of seven vil- 
lages, five of Gros Ventres, and two of Mandans, 
in the distance of about fifteen miles. They are ge- 
nerally on good terms with each other, but at present 
there exist considerable' dissentions, and even open 
rupture. Their is not the least affinity in their lan- 
guages, but the Gros Ventre is spoken by all the 



BOOK I, INDIAN NATIONS, &c. UJ 

Mandans, According to tlie tradition of these last, 
who were originally of the Crow nation, owing to a 
quarrel between two chiefs, over the carcase of a 
buffaloe which they had slain, a separation took 
place of tlie followers of each. 

Chiennes — Are a wandering nation, on the heads 
of the Chienne river. Trade with the Arikaras — 
speak a different language from any nation I know. 
Their complexion very fair. They trade also with 
the Spaniards, and have a great number of horses, 
&c. 

Sioux Tribes. — On an ancient map I have seen 
them named Naddouwessioux ; the Noddouwesses 
of Carver, are probably a band of Sioux — are nearly 
all wandering tribes, and may be considered as di- 
vided into four nations, the Sioux, Teton, Assineboin 
and Black-feet. 

Fanktons — Wander in an agreeable country, a 
considerable portion of which is woodland — trade 
on the St. Peters, and on the Missouri at the riviere 
a'Jaque. Their trade is not valuable, chiefly buffa-~ 
loe robes and deer skins : they are the most friendly 
and peaceable of the Sioux bands, 

Tanktons of the J\*orth, — On Red river of Lake 
Winipec, and trade with the British establishments. 

Wah-pa-tone. — On the north west side of the river 
St. Peters, to the mouth of the Chippoway river. 

Minda-war- Carton — The only Sioux band which 
attends to the cultivation of the earth ,• but this not 
to any great extent. They live on the Mississip])i 
above the river St. Peters. Their country is repre- 
sented as tolerably fertile, and well watei'ed. 

TVah-pa-coo-la — On the south west side of the ri- 
ver St. Peters, from a place called Hardwood, to the 
Yellow Medicine river, some traffic with the Yank- 
tons and Tetons west of them. 



156 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Sessatone — On the upper part of Red river and the 
St. Peters. This country abounds with small lakes, 
and in valuable fur animals, beaver, otter, muskrat, 
martin, &c. They meet the Tetons, &c. on the ri- 
viere a'Jaque, about the months of May and June, to 
trade. They supply the Yanktons with articles of 
European manufacture, and receive in return, hor- 
ses, &c. 

TetonSf Bois Bnde^ Jrkandada^ Mini~kiniad-%af 
Sahone, — These are the pirates or marauders of the 
Missouri, their country without timber, and not 
good for hunting, except as to the bufFaloe, they have 
therefore hardly any thing but buffaloe robes to 
trade. 

The Sioux bands claim as follows : " beginning 
at the confluence of the riviere des Moines and the 
Mississippi, thence to the river St. Peters, thence on 
both sides of the Mississippi to Crow wing river, 
and upwards with that stream, including the waters 
of the upper part of Red river of lake Winipec, and 
down to the Pemberton riv er ; thence a south west 
course to intersect the Missouri at or near the Man- 
dans, and with that stream, down to tlie W arricon 
river, thence crossing the Missouri, it goes to in- 
clude the lower part of the Chienne river, all the wa- 
ters of White river, and Teton river, including the 
lower poi'tion of the Qui Courre, and returns with 
that stream downward to the Missouri, thence east- 
ward to the beginning." 

Jtmneboin — Divided into the following bands : — 
Manetopec, (gens de Canot,) wander on the Mouse 
river, between the Assineboin and the Missouri. 
Osee-gah, about the mouth of the little Missouri, to 
the Assineboin river. 



BOOK L INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 15? 

Mah-to-pa-na-to, on the Missouri, about the mouth 
of the White earth rivei', and on the head of the As- 
sineboin and Copellej'ivers. 

These bands trade with the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany, who have establishments on the Assincboin 
and Copelle rivers ; occasionally also on the Saskas^- 
hawin. Their country has little or no timber. 

Blackfeet, — They wander on the heads of the Mis- 
souri, Maria i»ivcr, and along the Rocky mountains, 
they are also Sioux. They trade at the same esta- 
blishments with the Assineboin, and are at war with 
the Crow nation. They have been very troublesome 
to our traders, to whom they have conceived a deadly 
hatred. Their country the most abundant in beaver 
and otlier furs. 

' ■ Qros Veufres of the Prairie — Speak the Crow lan- 
guage, and wander on the south fork of the Saskas- 
hawin. 



NATIONS ON THE LAKES, AND UPPER PART OF THE 
MISSISSIPPI. 

Chijjpoways — Are divided into three bands, one in 
a village on an island in Leech lake ; another about 
t]ie head of the Mississippi, and around Red lake, 
and the third on Red river, of lake Winipec, and 
about the moutli of Pemberton river. They wander 
along the lakes, however, to a great distance. They 
are the inveterate enemies of the Sioux; with whom 
they have been at war time immemorial. Their 
country is tolerably well covered with wood, but 
abounds with morasses and lakes. 

Mgonquins — Speak the same language with the 
Chlppoways, and live in two bands, one on the south 
side of Rainy lake, Rainy lake river, and the lake 



15^ VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

of the Woods ; the other about the mouths of the As* 
sineboin and Red rivers. 

Knistenoos. — Descendants of the Chippoways — on 
the head of the Assineboin, thence towards the Sas- 
kashawin. They might be induced to trade at an es- 
tablishment on the Missouri, at the mouth of the 
Yellow Stone river* 

INDIANS, SOUTH OF THE MlSSOmi AND ARKANSAS. 

A very numerous race, who liave as' yet but little 
i ntercourse with the whites. They are badly armed, 
and much at the mercy of the other Indians, by 
whom they are made slaves when taken prisoners. 
They are also called Camanches. They wander 
about the heads of the Platfe, and in the vast plains 
bordering on New Mexico and New Spain, south of 
the Arkansas ; and are divided into many bands. 
They possess an immense number of horses, asses, 
and mules. 

Crow Indians'— On the Yellow Stone, and heads of 
the Missouri ; they are divided into a number of 
small bands. 

Paunch Indians — Wander along the Rocky moun- 
tains, and sometimes venture across. Probably a 
band of the Snake Indians. The Padoucas, Kio- 
7vays^ &c. are probably bands of nations already enu- 
merated; inhabit an arid, unproductive country. 

Caddoquis. — Thirty-live miles west of the main 
branch of Red river, 120 miles by land above Natch- 
itoches, formerly lived 375 miles higher up, at a 
beautiful prairie, which has a lake of clear water, 
Tlie nation is small, but the warriors greatly cele- 
brated for their courage, and as much respected by 
their neighbors, as the Knights of Malta were in 
Europe. 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, 8ccj 159 

Tattasces, — Fifty miles above Natchitoches on 
Bayou Pierre, there is a small Freiicli settlement. 
They are only a remnant, hut live in a fixed village. 

JSTaU'do-ques — On the Sabine, sixty or seventy 
miles from the Yattasces. Tiie French had formerly 
a factory here — language Caddo. 

Mdaize — Forty miles from Natchitoches — below 
the Yattasces; language peculiar — extremely diffi- 
cult to speak. 

Eyish — Near Nacogdoches — nearly exterminated 
a few years ago by the small pox—- language pecu- 
liar, but speak Caddo. 

Kyis — On the Trinity river, near where the road 
to St. Antonio crosses it. Language peculiar. 

Tachees — On a branch of the Sabine — language 
Caddo — gave their name to the province of Texas. 

jyabadaches — In the same neighborhood. 

Beddies — On the Trinity, about sixty miles south 
of the Nacogdoches; speak Caddo, but have a pe- 
culiar language. 

Jlccokesaus — Two hundred miles south west of Na- 
cogdoches, on the west side of the Colerado — speak 
SI peculiar language — wander about the bay of Stv 
Bernard. 

Mayes — On the bay of St. Bernard, near the Gua- 
daloupe — hate the Spaniards, and are attached to 
the French — have a tradition of the landing of La 
Salle in this neighborhood — speak Attakapas. 

Carankouas — On an island or peninsula in the bay 
of St. Bernard, ten miles long and five broad — at 
war with the Spaniards — a peculiar language. 

Cances — A very numerous nation ; consisting of a 

number of tribes, wlio occupy the country from the 

bay of St. Bernard, across Grand River, towards 

a Vera Cruz. — On bad terms with the Spaniards-^ 

i^eak a peculiar language. 



160 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

Tankaways — A wandering people, near the Rio 
Grande, and at war with the Spaniards. 

Tawakenoes — On the Brassos de Dios — for some 
months at the Prairie of the Tortiiga — usual resi- 
dence 200 miles west of Nacogdoches, towards Santa 
Fee; speak Pani, or J'owiache. 

Pani, or Towiache — Eight hundred miles ahove 
Natchitoches, 340 hy land. Much diminished six 
or eight years ago by the small pox. 

*N\itchitoches — Formerly resided where the town 
of Natchitoches is now situated ; have always been 
friendly to the whites. They have dwindled away 
to a few warriors. 

BoliLxas — Emigrants from Pensacola ; they came 
with a few French families, are not more than thirty 
in number. There are, besides, several small bands 
or parties, originally from Florida, the Appalaches, 
on Bayou Rapide^ Mihamas, in Oppelousas; Con- 
chatas^ of the same nation with the Alibamas, emi- 
grated to the Sabine about fifteen years ago ; Faca* 
nas, a small tribe who live on the Qulequeshoe river, 
which heads south west of Natchitoches. Fascago^ 
las^ live in a small village sixty miles above Natchi- 
toches. Tunicas,^ at Avoyall, emigrants from Bayou 
Tunica. All these nations speak the Mobilian, 
which was formerly the court language amongst the 
Indian nations of Lower Louisiana. There are, be- 
sides, a number of small bands of Chactas, on Bayou 
Bo3uf, on the Teche, and on the Sabine. 

Oppelousas — In the Indian language means black 
head, or scull. They are aborigines of this district, 

Jittakapas — Signifies man-eater. They at present 
reside with tlie Carankouas on an island in the bay 
of St. Bernard. They have the reputation of being 
to this day anthropophagi. A French writer, who 



BOOK I. INDIAN NATIONS, &c. 161 

who published a book on Louisiana in 1713, of the 
name of Dumont, relates a fact of two white men 
who fell into their hands, one of whom was killed 
and eaten, the other made liis escape. 

Tensas — En/ grants from the Tensa, and Bayou 
Boeuf. 

Washas^ formerly a considerable nation, now ex- 
tinct, lived near New Orleans, and were the first 
with whom the French became acquainted. 

•Arkansas — South of the Arkansas village; de- 
scended from the Osage. The Houmas and Avoyall 
extinct. 

INDIANS ON THE MISSISSIPPI, BETWEEN THE MIS- 
SOURI AND THE FUaLS OF ST. ANTHONY. 

Ayuwas — Descended from the Missouris, and 
claim the country west of them. Have a village on 
the riviere des Moines, south east side, but are ge- 
nerally wandering. 

Saukees — One hundred and forty leagues above 
St. Louis. Trade with the merchants from Michili- 
mackinac and St. Louis. Live with the Foxes, and 
may be considered as identified with those people. 
^ The country which they claim lies principally on the 
east side of the Mississippi. On the west side they 
claim the country of the ancient Missouris by riglit 
of conquest, without defining any portion to the 
Ayuwas. To them may be ascribed the destruction 
of the Piorias, Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Missouris, 
and Illinois. 

02 



CHAP. IX. 

View of the countrtj on the Columbia, 

But little is yet known of this extensive section 
of our continent ; it is certain, that it is on a much 
larger scale than the tract east of the Alleghanies to 
the Atlantic, but it must be admitted, that its rela- 
tive position with the rest of the world, (except as 
to the East Indies) is much less advantageous. Its 
remoteness from any European country or settle- 
ment, will discourage the establishment of colonies. 
Before its colonization can be effected, the same ob- 
stacles as were encountered by nearly all the colo- 
siists in America, must be overcome, and perhaps 
still greater. 

This tract differs from that east of the Alleghany 
in one respect, and which is of considerable moment ; 
it does not open to the ocean by fine bays, and by 
large navigable rivers, crossing it parallel to each 
other. The cause of this difference principally arises 
from a chain of mountains, until after flowing to- 
wards each other, the one a thousand, and the other 
yearly fifteen hundred miles, they break through the 
ridge before mentioned, and find their way to the 
sea, uniting their waters about sixty miles from it. 
The other rivers whicli rise in the Rocky mountains, 
instead of falling into the sea, become tributary 
either to the MiUtuomJik or the Columbia. 



BOOK I. COUNTRY ON COLUMBIA. 163 

Next to the Mississippi, tiiis river and its tributa- 
ries, water a greater extent of country tlian any ri- 
ver of our continent, not even excepting the St. Law- 
rence. The distance from the source of the Colum- 
bia, to that of the Multnomak, which rises with the 
Colerado of California, is not less than two thou- 
sand miles. The Multnomak was not discovered by 
Lewis and Clarke when descending the Columbia, 
its entrance being concealed by an island ; on re- 
ascending the Columbia, those celebrated travellers 
were astonished at the sight of a noble river little in- 
ferior to the principal stream. 

The lands immediately in the vicinity of Colum- 
bia, are represented as rich and highly susceptible 
of cultivation ; but the country in general is to'o open, 
and deficient in wood. The climate is more tempe- 
rate than tlie same latitudes in the United States. 
Near the sea, however, there prevails almost conti- 
nued fog, and drizzling showers of rain, which ren- 
der it extremely disagi-eeable. 

The natives on the Columbia and its branches are 
very numerous. General Clark informed me tliat 
their numbers might be safely estimated at eighty 
thousand souls. 

The route taken by Lewis and Clarke across the 
mountains, was, perhaps, tlie very worst that could 
hiive been selected. Mr. Henry, a member of the 
Missouri company, and his hunters, have discovered 
several passes, not only very practicable, but even 
in their present state, less difficult than tliose of the 
Alleghany mountains. These are considerably south 
or tlie source of Jefferson river. It is the opinion of 
thf' gentleman last mentioned, that loaded horses, or 
even waggons, might in its present state, go in the 
course of six or eight days, from a navigable point 



164 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

on the Columbia, more easy than between those on 
the heads of the Ohio, antl the Atlantic states. Mr. 
Henry wintered in a delightful country, on a beauti- 
ful navigable stream. 

An attempt is now making to form establishments 
on the Columbia, with what success, is not yet much 
known. This has been undertaken by a company in 
the city of New York, at the head of which we find 
Jacob Astor. Two vessels were despatched for the 
mouth of the river, we are informed, with orders to 
commence an establishment. A party of about eighty 
men under the command of Wilson P. Hunt, and a 
brother of sir Alexander M'Kensie, who was for- 
merly in the employment of the north west company, 
has proceeded across the mountains. The principal 
object of the company at present, seems to be the es- 
tablishment of a fur trade direct with China. The 
valuable sea otter, and the fine furs which may be 
obtained in this country in great quantities, will un- 
doubtedly produce considerable profits. Whether 
the returns could be introduced into the United 
States across the Rocky mountains, to any advantage, 
might be worthy of experiment. A shortening of 
the distance, by more than a thousand leagues, will 
certainly make it an object, to lessen the expense 
and difficulty of transporting goods across the moun- 
tains, and down the Missouri. It is Avorthy of con- 
sideration, that articles usually imported from the 
East Indies ai'e not of great bulk, or weight, that a 
small compass will include goods of great value. 
Hence this transportation will be attended with 
much less difficulty. 

There can be little doubt but that the United 
States have the best claim to the country watered by 
the Columbia, at least of the greater part. If not «^ 



BOOK I. COUNTRY ON COLUMBIA. 165 

a part of Louisiana, yet by the right of discovery, 
univei'sally acknowledged by European nations, 
with respect to this continent. We have, besides, 
exercised various acts of ownership over it, and the 
colony at present forming, is undcF the protection 
and license of our governmentt 



CHAP. X. 

Antiquities in the Valley of the Mississippi, 

Considerable curiosity has been excited by ap- 
pearances on the Mississippi and its tributary wa- 
ters, supposed to prove a more ancient and advanced 
population, than the state of the country, or the cha- 
racter of the tribes inhabiting it, when first visited by 
Europeans, would seem to indicate. I need make 
no apology for devoting a chapter to a subject, whicU 
has been dignified by the pens of Mr. Jefierson, of 
Dr. Bai'ton, and a Bishop Madison, Yet, with all 
possible deference to these respectable names, I can- 
not but think their theories founded on a very im- 
perfect acquaintance with these remains : having ne- 
ver themselves visited any but the least considerable, 
and but few having been described by others with 
accuracy. The subject is still new, and opens a wide 
field for interesting and amusing speculation. 

Some writers, without considering the astonishing 
number and variety of these remains, have attributed 
them to a colony of Welsh, or Danes, who are sup 
posed to have found their way by some accident to 
this country, about the ninth century. Without re- 
curring to the reasoning of Dr. Robertson against 
the probability of such a colony, I will boldly assert, 
that it is absolutely impossible that they could have 
gained such a footing as these vestiges indicate, 
without at the same time, leaving otliers less equivo^ 



BOOK I. ANTIQUITIES. 16? 

cal. The fortifications in the western country, 
are devoid of those marks which have character- 
ised the European mode of fortifying almost time 
immemorial; they are mere enclosures, without 
angles or bastions, and seldom surrounded by a 
ditch. The place is usually such as convenience 
would dictate, or as is best adapted to the ground : 
two miles below Pittsburgh, on a kind of promontory 
called M'Kee's rocks, nearly inaccessible on three 
sides, there is a fortification formed by a single line 
on the land side. They are sometimes, it is true, 
laid off with regularity, in the form of a parallello- 
gram, semicircle, or square, but most commonly 
they are irregular. 

We are often tempted hy a fondness for the mar- 
vellous, to seek out remote and improbable causes, 
for that which may he explained by the most ohvious. 
In the eagerness to prove the existence of the Welsh 
colony, by attributing to them these remains, we 
forget that the natives of the country when first dis- 
covered by Europeans, were universally in the habit 
of fortifying. In the early wars of the New En- 
gland colonists with the Indians, we are informed, 
that Philip, chief of the Niphet tribe, defended him- 
self in a fort which he had constructed, and sufficient- 
ly large to contain two thousand men. Charlevoix, 
du Pratz, and others, relate the particulais of seve- 
ral sieges. A fortification is one of the first things 
that would naturally suggest itself in a war, tliey 
have been known to all people, the same mind which 
would invent means of protection for the person of a 
single individual, would also devise the means of se- 
curity to large bodies of men. It is no difficult mat- 
ter to account feir tlie disuse of fortifications amongst 
the Indians, when we take into view the incredible 



168 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

diminution of their numbers, and the little use orej 
their forts against the whites ; yet in the two last^ 
sieges of monsieur Perier, in the war of the Natchez 
(1729,) that unfortunate people, were able to with- 
stand the approaches and cannon of the enemy for 
nearly two months. 

Imlay, in his fanciful description of Kentucky, as 
serts, that the Indians were not acquainted with the 
use of fortifications. It is not likely that they should 
have escaped the notice of the French travellers, 
who have been more curious than any others in what 
relates to the natives, and yet we find no mention of 
these remains in their writings, a proof that they had 
no doubt of their origin. Carver, I believe, was the 
first to notice these remains, and to regard them as 
beyond the ingenuity of the natives. On my voyage 
up the Missouri, I observed the ruins of several villa- 
ges which had been abandoned twenty or thirty years, 
and which, in every respect, resembled the vestiges 
on the Ohio and Mississippi, and at the Arikara and 
Mandan villages, I found them surrounded by pali- 
sades. I entertain no doubt but that these vestiges 
are nothing more than the ruins of pallisadoed towns 
,or villages, and not mere fortifications. This cus- 
tom of pallisadoing, appears to have been general 
among tlie northern tribes ; it is mentioned by the 
earliest travellers. In the library of New-Orleans, 
I found two works at present out of print, which con- 
tributed in removing all doubt from my mind ; the 
one is by Lafiteau, a learned Jesuit, and which is 
sometimes quoted by Dr. Robertson, the other is a 
singular mixture of fable and fact, by La Ronton, 
published 1678, before the discovery of the Missis- 
sippi in its full extent. The writer pretends to have 
travelled on the part which is above the Miss'oui'i* 



BOOK I. ANTIQUrnES, U<f 

Both these works contain a number of curious en- 
gravings, in which, amongst other things, the forti- 
lied towns are represented. 

That no Welsh nation exists at present on this 
continent, is beyond a doubt. Dr. Barton has taken 
great pains to ascertain the language spoken by 
the tribes, east of the Mississippi, and the Welsh 
finds no place amongst them ; since the cession of 
Louisiana, the tribes west of the Mississippi have 
been sufficiently known ; we have had intercourse 
with them all, but no Welsh are yet found. In the 
year 1798, a young Welshman of the name of Evans, 
ascended the Missouri, in company with Mackey, 
and remained two years in that country; he spoke 
both the ancient and modern Welsh, and addressed 
himself to every nation between that river and New 
Spain, but found no Welshmen. When we reflect 
upon the difficulties that such a colony would have 
to encounter amidst ferocious savages, is it probable, 
that isolated and unassisted, they could have been 
able to exist ? The history of all the European esta- 
blislnnents, inform us, tliat they were opposed by 
the natives witli great ferocity. The Welsh would 
certainly form considerable establishments, or be to- 
tally annihilated ; to exist in a distinct and separate 
tribe, without preserving any of their arts, and 
without gaining a superiority over the Indians, but 
on the contrary adopting their manners, is absolutely 
impossible. 

Besides the fortifications, there are other remains 
scattered throughout the western country, much 
more difficult to account for, and to which the W elsh 
can lay no claim. It is worthy of observation, that 
all these vestiges invariably occupy the most eligible 
situations for towns or settlements ; and on the Ohio 
p 



1/0 VIEWS O? LOUISIANA. 

and Mississippi, they are most numerous and consi- 
derable. There is not a rising town or a farm of an 
eligible situation, in whnse vicinity some of them 
may not be found. I have heard it observed by a 
very intelligent man, a surveyor of public lands, 
that wherever any of these remains were met with, 
Ite was sure to find an extensive body of fertile soil. 
An immense population has once been supported in 
this country. These vestiges may be classed under 
three different heads : Is^, the walled towns or for- 
tifications, of which I liave already spoken ; 2J, bar- 
rows, or places of interment ; 3rf, mounds or pyra- 
mids. 

2. Barrows, such as described by Mr. Jefferson, 
are extremely numerous ^in every part of the western 
country. The traces of a village may be always 
found near them, and they have been used exclusively 
as places of interment, at least of deposit for the 
dead. The height is usually eight or ten feet above 
the surrounding ground, the shape manifesting little 
or no design. These accuinulations may be attri- 
buted to the custom prevalent amongst the American 
tribes, of collecting the bones of such as expired at 
a distance from tlieir homes, in battle or otherwise ; 
and at stated periods consigning them to some com- 
mon tomb. The barrows were not the only recep- 
tacles: caverns were also used, and places, which, 
from an unusual appearance, were considered the re- 
sidence of Manitoos or spirits. 

3, The mounds or pyramids appear to me to be- 
long to a period different from the others. They are 
much more ancient, and are easily distinguished 
from the barrows, by their size and the design which 
they manifest. Remains of palisadoed towns aie 
found in their vicinity, which may be accounted for 



BOOK I. ANTIQUrriES. 171 

from the circumstance of the mounds occupying the 
most eligible situations for villages, or from the ve- 
neration of the Indians, for whatever appears extra- 
ordinary. From the growth of trees on some of 
them, they show an antiauity of at least sevei-al hun- 
dred years. The Indians have no tradition as to 
the founder^ of them, though there is no doubt but 
that when we first became acquainted with those 
people, they were used as places of defence. The 
old chief of the Kaskaskia Indians, told Mr. Rice 
Jones, that in the wars of his nation with the Iro- 
quois, the mounds in the American bottom were used 
as forts. In one of the plates of Lafiteau's work, 
there is a representation of an attack on an Indian 
fort, which is evidently constructed upon one of the 
mounds : its form is circular, the enclosure of large 
pickets, and heavy beams on the outside, extending 
to the ground on which the mound stands. Those 
inside defend themselves with stones, arrows, &c» 
while the assailants are either aiming their arrows 
at such as appear above tlie wall, or endeavoring to 
set fire to the pickets. Until I saw this engraving, 
I had frequently doubted whether these elevations of 
earth were intended for any other purpose, than pla- 
ces of interment for their great chiefs, or as sites 
for temples. These were probably the first objects, 
but experience, at the same time, taught them that 
they might also answer as forts ; perhaps the vene- 
ration for these sacred places might induce the In- 
dians, when invaded, to make their final stand in 
their temples, which tlierefore, become strong holds. 
This is conformable to tlie history of most nations of 
the world, and particularly with tliat of the conquest 
of Mexico, where according, to Bernal Diaz, the let- 
ters of Cortez, and to Clavigno, the natives defend- 



172 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ed their pyramids as the last refuge. Solis, in hi» 
animated and eloquent, though somewhat fabulous 
history,^ says, that the pyramid of Cholula was so 
crouded with warriors, that it looked like a living 
hill, una monte vivante. 

The moimds at Grave creek and Marietta have 
been minutely described, but in point of magnitude 
they fall far shoH of others w hich I have seen ; the 
most remarkable, are two groups of mounds or py- 
ramids, the one about ten miles above Cohokia, 
the otlier nearly the same distance below it, which 
in all, exceed one hundred and fifty, of various sizes. 
The western side, also, contains a considerable num- 
ber. A more minute description of those above Co- 
hokia, which I visited, will give a tolerable idea of 
them all. 

I crossed the Mississippi at St. Louis, and after 
passing through the wood which borders the river, 
about half a mile in width, entered an extensive open 
plain. In fifteen minutes, I found myself in the 
midst of a group of mounds, mostly of a circular 
shape, and at a distance, resembling enormous hay- 
stacks scattered through a meadow. One of the lar- 
gest which I ascended, was about two hundred paces 
in circumference at the bottom, the form nearly 
square, though it had evidently undergone consider- 
able alteration from the washing of the rains. The 
top was level, with an area sufficient to contain se« 
veral hundred men. 

The prospect from this mound is very beautifid; 
looking towards the bluffs, which are dimly seen at 
the distance of six m- eiglit miles, the bottom at this 
place being very wide, I had a level plain before me, 
varied by islets of wood, and a few solitary trees ; to 
the right, the prairie is bounded by the horizon, to 



BOOK I. ANTIQUITIESr l^^S 

the left, the course of the Cahokia may be dist^r 
guished by the margin of wood upon its banks, aiid 
crossing the valley diagonally soutli, south west. 
Around me, I counted twenty mounds, or pyramids, 
besides a great number of small artificial elevations ; 
these mounds form something more than a semicircle, 
about a mile in extent, its diameter formed by the 
river. 

Pursuing my walk along the bank of the Cohokia, 
I passed eight others in the distance of three miles, 
befoi^I arrived at tlie principal assemblage. When 
I reached the foot of the largest mound, I was struck 
witli the degree of astonishment, not unlike that 
which is experienced in contemplating the Egyptian 
pyramids ; and could not help exclaiming, what a 
stupendous pile of earth ! To heap up such a mass 
must have required years, and the labors of thou- 
sands. It stands immediately on the bank of the 
Cohokia, and on the side next it, is covered with 
lofty trees. Were it not for the regularity and de- 
sign which it manifests, the circumstance of its be- 
ing on alluvial ground, and the other mounds scat- 
tered around it, we could scarcely believe it the 
work of human hands, in a country which we have, 
generally believed never to have been inhabited by 
any but a few lazy Indians. The shape is that" of a 
parallelogram, standing from nortli to south ; on 
tlie soutli side there is a broad apron or step, about 
halfway down, and from this, another projection into 
the plain about fifteen feet wide, which was probably 
intended as an ascent to the mound. By stepping 
round the base I computed the circumference to be 
at least six hundred yards, and the height of the 
mound about ninety feet. The step, or apron, has 
been used as a kitchen garden, by the monks of La 



174> VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

Trappe, and the top is sowed with wheat. Nearly 
west there is one of a smaller size, and fifteen 
others scattered through the plain. Two are also 
seen on the bluffs, at the distance of three miles. Se- 
veral of these mounds are almost conical. As the 
sward had been burnt, the earth was perfectly na- 
ked, and I could trace with ease, any unevenness of 
surface, so as to discover whether it was artificial 
or accidental. I every where observed a great num- 
ber of small elevations of earth, to the height of a 
few feet, at regular distances from each other, and 
which appeared to observe some order ; near them I 
also observed pieces of flint, and fragments of ear- 
then vessels. 

I was perfectly satisfied that here once existed a 
( Ity similar to those of Mexico, described by the 
first conquerors. Althougli it might not have been 
a Licopolis, Perscpolis or Thebes, it is not improba- 
ble that it contained many thousand inhabitants. 
This plain, now reposing in the stillness of death, 
was once the scene of a busy and crouded popula- 
tion; those temples now devoted to the idolaters of 
silence, once resounded with shouts of war or the 
songs of peace. The mounds were site of temples, 
or monuments to the great men. It is evident, this 
could never have been the work of thinly scattered 
tribes. If the human species had at any time been 
permitted in this country to have increased freely, 
and there is every probability of the fact, it must, as 
in Mexico, have become astonishingly numerous. 
The same space of ground would have sufliced to 
maintain fifty times the number of the present inha- 
bitants, with ease ; their agriculture having no other 
object than mere sustenance. Amongst a numerous 
population, the power of the chief must necessarily 



BOOK I. ANTIQUITIES. 175 

be more absolute, and where there are no laws, de- 
generate into despotism. This was the case in Mex- 
ico, and in the nations of South America; a great 
number of individuals were at the disposal of the 
cliief, who treated them little better than slaves. 
The smaller the society, the greater the consequence 
of each individual. Hence, there would not be want- 
ing a sufficient number of hands to erect mounds or 
pyramids. 

Hunter and Dunbar describe a mound atthe junc- 
tion of the Catahoula, A^'asliita and Tensa rivers, 
very similar in shape to the large one on the Coho- 
kia. This I have also visited. It has a step or 
apron, and is surrounded by a group often or tw^elve 
other mounds of a smaller size. In the vicinity of 
New Madrid, there are a number; one on the bank 
of a lake, is at least four hundred yards in circum- 
ference, and surrounded by a ditch at least ten feet 
wide, and at present, live feet deep; it is about for- 
ty feet in height, and level on the top. I have fre- 
quently examined tlic mounds at St. Lewis : tliey are 
situated on the second bank just aboAe the town, and 
disposed in a singular manner; there are nine in 
all, and form three sides of a parallelogi'am, the 
open side towards the country, being protected, how- 
ever, by three smaller mounds, placed in a circular 
manner. The space enclosed is about four hundred 
yards in length, and two hundred in breadth. About 
six hundred yards above there is a single mound, 
witli a broad stage on the river side ; it is thirty 
feet in height, and one hundred and fifty in lengtli ; 
the top is a mere ridge of five or six feet wide. Be- 
low the first mounds there is a curious work, called 
the Falling Garden. Advantage is taken of the se- 
cond bank, nearly fifty feet in heiglit at this place, 



176 VIEWS OP LOUlStAlS^A. 

and three regular stages or steps, are formed by 
earth brought from a distance. This work is much 
admired — it suggests the idea of a place of assembly 
for the purpose of counselling, on public occasions. 
In tracing the origin of institutions or invention^ 
amongst men, we are apt to forget, that there is, 
however, diversified by manners and languages, no 
difference of species, that consequently the same in- 
stitutions may originate amongst twenty different 
people ; the bee and the ant have the same instinct in 
whatever part of the globe they may be found. Adair 
takes great pains to prove a similarity of customs be 
tween the American tribes and the Jews ; Lafiteau, 
with great learning, shews the existence of a still 
greater lumiber common to tlie Greeks and Romans. 
The result to the philosopliic mind is no more than 
this, that the American tribes belong to the human 
race, and that men, without any intercourse with 
each other, will, in innumerable instances, fall upon 
the same modes of acting. The wonder would be, 
that they should not shew a resemblance. Man is 
every where found in societies, under governments, 
addicted to war, hunting, or agriculture, and fond 
of dances, shows, and distinction. Perhaps the first 
employment of a numerous population wlien not en- 
gaged in war, would be in heaping up piles of earth, 
the rudest and most common species of human labor. 
We find tliese mounds in every part of the globe; in 
tlie north of Europe, and in Great Britain, they are 
numerous, and much resemble ours, but less consider- 
able. The pyramids or mounds of Siberia bear a 
surprising resemblance to those of the United States* 
There is this to be remarked, however, that the 
Russian remains are found in the districts of the 
wandering tiihcs, whereas, in the vast plains west of 



BOOK I. ANTIQUITIES. 177 

of the Mississi])pi they are rarely encountered. It 
might be a curious inquiry, why in those regions, at 
present so thinly inhabited as Tartary and Siberia, 
these remains, which indicate a fixed population, 
should be chiefly found. It is fashionable to account 
for tliese things by the supposed revolutions of this 
earth ; perhaps the most rational mode of accounting 
for them, is by our own ignorance. The pyramids 
of Egypt are perhaps the oldest monuments of hu- 
man labor in that country, so favorable to the pro- 
duction of a numerous population. The pyramids of 
Mexico, wliich are but little known, and yet scarcely 
less considerable, like those of Egypt have their 
origin hid in the night of oblivion. Humboldt is of 
opinion, that " these edifices must be classed with 
the pyramidal monuments of Asia, of which traces 
were found even in ilrcadia ; for the conical mauso- 
leum of Calistus was a true tumulus, covered with 
fruit trees, and served for a base to a small temple 
consecrated to Diana." The Greeks, who were suc- 
cessful in the chariot races at the Olympic games, to 
shew their gratitude to their horses, gave them an 
honourable burial, and even erected pyramids over 
their graves. The great altar of Jupiter, at Olym- 
pia, was nothing more than a huge mound of earth, 
with stone steps to ascend, Humboldt remarks 
with astonishment, the striking similarity of the 
Asiatic and Egyptian pyramids, to those of Mexico. 
The similarity of tliose which he describes, to the 
mounds or pyramids on the Mississippi, is still more 
striking, but not a matter of so much wonder. The 
only diflerence is, that a few of the Mexican i)yra~ 
mills are larger, and some appear to have been fac» 
ed with stone or brick. Like those of Mexico, 
wherever there has been a considerable town, we find 



irS VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

two large pyramids, supposed to represent the suu 
and moon, and a number of smaller ones, to repre- 
sent the stars. There is very little doubt but that 
they originated with the same people, for they may 
be considered as existing in the same country. — 
What is the distance between Red river and the 
northern part of the intendancy of Vera Cruz, in 
which the pyramid of Papantla is situated ? little 
more than ten or fifteen days journey. Even sup- 
posing there were no mounds in the intermediate 
space, the distance is not such, as to preclude the 
probability of intercourse. There is no obstruction 
in the way ; a coach and four has been driven from 
Mexico to Nacogdoches. 

The Mexican histories give unceii;ain account*? of 
the origin of those works, nor are the antiquarians 
able to form any satisfactory hypothesis. They are 
attributed by some to the Toultec nation, as far back 
as the ninth centuiy, who emigrated to Mexico from 
the north, perhaps from the banks of the Mississippi; 
and by others, to the Olmec nation, still more an- 
cient, who came to Mexico from the east. A curious 
discovery, made a few years ago in the state of Ten- 
nessee, proves beyond a doubt, that at some remote 
period the valley of the Mississippi had been inha- 
bited by a much more civilized people, than when 
first known to us. Two human bodies were found 
in a copperas cave, in a surprising state of preserva- 
tion. They were first wrapped up in a kind of blan- 
ket, supposed to have been manufactured of the lint 
of nettles, afterwards with dressed skins, and then a 
mat of nearly sixty yards in length. They were 
clad in a beautiful cloth, interwoven with feathers, 
such as was maiuifactured by tlie Mexicans.^ The 
flcyh had become hai'd, but the features were wejl 



BOOK 1. ANTIQUITIES. 1^9 

preserved. They had been here, perhaps, for cen- 
turies, and certainly were of a different race from 
the modern Indians. They might have belonged to 
the Olmec, who overran Mexico about the seventh 
century, to the Toultec, who came centuries after- 
wards, or to the Aztecs, who founded the great city 
of Mexico, in the thirteenth century. 

These subjects can only bewilder ; every nation, 
in tracing back its history, must finally lose itself in 
fable. The Aztec (Mexican) mode of preserving 
their chronicles, must necessarily have been defec- 
tive ; tbe Egyptians could lay but little better claim 
to authenticity. The simple fact of the emigration 
to the country of the Olmecs, or Toultecs, may be 
relied on, but as to the time and circumstances, we 
must look for very slender accounts. It is only since 
the invention of letters that we can form a well 
grounded hope of the permanency of human institu- 
tions, of the certainty of history, and of the uninter- 
rupted progress of improvements. Had tliis noble 
invention been unknown, how many of our most use- 
ful arts would have been lost during that night of 
barbarism, called the dark ages ! 

A French wiiter has fancifully observed, that ci- 
vilization arises, dc la fennentation dune nombreuse 
peuplade, and that it would be as idle to expect this 
result without a numei'ous population, as to think of 
making wine by the fermentation of a single grape. 
Experience shews, that a numerous population will 
always be attended with some degree of improve- 
ment, because, as Mr. Jefferson observes, the chan- 
ces of improvement are multiplied. It is not with- 
out reason that the Creator gave his command to in- 
crease and multiply, since many of the intellectual 
faculties \yould not otherwise be completely unfold- 



180 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ed. It is not every country, however, which can of 
itself attain the full extent of the population of which 
it may be rendered susceptible. In unfriendly soils 
and climates, nature must be forced by the arts and 
labours of agriculture, to afford sustenance for a nu- 
merous population. The inhabitants of such have 
therefore been usually found in wandering tribes, 
unable to originate their own civilization. A mighty 
warrior, at the head of his own tribe, might subdue 
the tribes around him, and form a little empire, and 
peace being secured to a great proportion of his sub- 
jects, their numbers would increase, but it would fall 
into fragments, long before the useful arts could be 
invented. 

It has everbeen in the mildest climates, gifted by na- 
ture with plenty, that civilization has had its origin, 
Egypt and fruitful Asia, first became possessed of a 
numerous population, and first cultivated the arts 
and sciences. In America civilization first appears 
cd, in similar climates, wliere nature, with little help 
from man, produces abundance of food. In both the 
old and the new world, the celestial spark kindled 
in those happy climes, would be carried to less fa- 
vored regions. But the human race has every where 
expei'ienced terrible revolutions. Pestilence, war, 
and the convulsions of the globe, have annihilated 
the proudest works, and rendered vain the noblest 
efforts. Ask not the sage, by whom, and when, 
were erected those lingering ruins, the " frail me- 
morials" of ages which have long since been swal- 
lowed up in the ocean of time ; ask not the wild 
Arab, where may be found the owner of the superb 
palace, within whose broken walls he casts his tent ; 
ask not the poor fisherman, as he spreads his nets, 
or the ploughman, who whistles over the ground. 



BOOK r, AXTIQUITIKS. 18i 

where is Tyre, where is Troy, of whose splen- 
dor, historians and poets have so much boasted ! 
Alas ! <* they have vanished from tlic things that be," 
and have left but the melancholy lesson, of the insta- 
bility of the most stupendous labors, and the vanity 
of immortality on earth ! 

In the wanderings of fancy, I have sometimes 
conceived this hemisphere, like the other, to have 
experienced the genial ray of civilization, and to 
have been inhabited b}' a numerous, polite, and en- 
lightened people.* Why may not great revolutions 
have been experienced in America? Is it certain, 
that Mexico, Peru and Chili, when first visited by 
Europeans, exhibited only the dawn of civilization ? 
Perliaps it was the fiftieth approach doomed to suffer 
a relapse, before tlie sacred flame could be extended 
to other portions of the continent : perhaps, at some 

*Plato, in one of his dialogues, speaks of a people, who had come 
from the Atlantic in great numbers, and oveiTun tlie gi-eater part 
of Europe luid Asia. Many circumstances related of the island 
of the Atlantic, correspond with America. This occurrence, to 
which Plato alludes, was considered of great antiquity, and pre- 
served by obscure tradition. The island was said to have been 
sunk by an earthquake. The fact is certain, that amongst the 
Greeks, tliere prevailed a belief of the existence of another conti- 
rent, in the Atlantic ocean, and inhabited by a powerful people, 
who, in remote antiquity, had invaded the old world. Among-st 
the Romans, who borrowed the g-reater pai't of their learning 
from the Greeks, the same belief prevailed. Seneca has this re- 
markable passage : " In ag'es to come, the seas will be traversed, 
and in spite of the wind and waves, avarice and pride will disco- 
ver a New W^orkl, and Thule shall be no longer considered the 
extreme part of the globe." Mons. Peyroux, has in a very ingeni- 
ous essay, rendered it even probable, that tlie ancients had been 
acquainted with America in very remote antiquity. Plato places 
the destruction of the Atlantides, at nine tlwusand years before 
his time. 



182 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

distant period the flame had been widely spread, and 
again extinguished by the common enemies of the 
human race. But I am asked, if this had been the 
case, should we not see indubitable proofs, in tlie re- 
mains of antiquity, edifices of stone, mines, and la- 
borious works of human hands. I answer, that na- 
ture is ever laboring to restore herself, slie is ever 
engaged in replacing in its primitive state, whatever 
changes the hand of man may effect in her appear- 
ance. Excavations of the earth would be filled up 
by the hand of time, and piles of stone when sepa- 
rated from the living rock, would crumble into dust. 
America may have been less fortunate than Europe 
in those happy inventions which serve in some mea- 
sure to perpetuate improvements, and yet, in some 
of the arts, she may have attained a greater excel- 
lence. The character of her civilization may have 
been different from any of which we have a know- 
ledge, and her relapse produced by causes of which 
we can form no conjecture. 

Who will assign, as the age of America, a period 
of years different from that allowed to, what has 
been denominated, the old world ? A multiplicity of 
proofs contradict the recency of her origin ; deeply 
imbedded stores of carbonated wood, the traces of 
ancient volcanoes ! I could appeal on this subject to 
her time-worn cataracts, and channels of mighty ri- 
vers, and to her venerable mountains, which rose 
when the Creator laid the foundations of the earth [ 
AVhen the eye of Europe first beheld her, did she ap- 
pear but lately to have sprung from the deep ? No, 
she contained innumerable and peculiar plants and 
animals, she was inhabited by millions of men, 
possessing different languages, manners and appear 



I BOOK I. ANTIQUITIES. 183 

ances. Grant then, that America may have existed 
a few thousand years ; the same causes prevailing, 
like effects will be produced ; the same revolutions 
as have been known in the old world may have taken 
place here. 

Before the invention of letters, there would be a 
constant succession of advances to civilization, and 
of relapses to barbarism. The Chaldeans, through 
the glimmer of ancient history, are represented to us 
as the first inventors of the arts ; but may not those 
people have been preceded by the same revolutions 
as have succeeded them. In long and arduous ad- 
vances, they might attain to great height in civiliza- 
tion, and wars, pestilence, or other calamities, pre- 
cipitate them to the state of the barbarian or the sa- 
vage. It is true, the traces of art would long remain 
undefaced ; but tliey would not remain /orerer : Timo 
would obliterate them. 

" He grasp'd a hero's antique bust. 

The marble crumbled into dust, 

And eunfe beneath the shade."-i»/Se/fccA? Qshomc. 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

IN THREE B00K9^ 

BOOK II. 



BOOK II. 
VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

IN THUEE BOOKS. 



CHAPTER I. 

General descrijMon of the Territory of Missoun-^ 
settlement — rivers^ Sfc, 

The territory of Missouri, is bounded on the 
south by the state of Louisiana, or the 33d deg. of 
latitude, which crosses the Mississippi about one 
hundred and fifty miles below the Arkansas. All 
that is not contained within the limits of tlie state of 
Louisiana, is now considered as belonging to this 
vast territory, but in order to distinguish betwcea 
1 the country possessed by us and that still held by 
the Indians, I will adopt the boundary agreed on 
I by treaty with the neighbouring nations. Beyond it 
the Indian agent and the territorial governor, have 
; a general superintendance,butthe civil autliority docs 
i)not exert its Jurisdiction. Tiie line of the Osage pur 
icliase, commences at the Black Rock, about three 
hundred miles up tbe Missouri, and runs due south 
' to the Arkansas. On the north side of the Missouri 

a 2 



186 VIEWS^ OF LOUISIANA. 

a line was agreed on with the Sacs and Foxes, be* 
ginning opposite the Gasconade river and striking 
the Mississippi at the mouth of JefFrion river. It is 
unnecessary to mention that the Mississippi forms 
tiie eastern houndary. 

This embraces an extent of country nearly 
twice as large as the state of Pennsylvania, and 
which contains a much greater proportion of tillable 
land. The section north of the Missouri, and the 
one south of the Arkansas, are each sufficient to form 
a considerable state ; but the Osage purchase, con- 
stitutes the principal body of the territory, and may 
be justly considered, next to the state of Louisiana^ 
the most valuable tract in the great valley of the 
Mississippi. 

A description of the principal rivers, with some ac- 
count of the poi'tions of country watered by them, 
will give some view of this tract : reserving the tract 
including the settlements for a more minute descrip- 
tion. 

White river, — ^This fine river was little known 
until lately ; it is one of the most considerable in the 
western country, and will one day be important. It 
was tliought to be a stream of very inconsiderable 
magnitude, until explored by captain Many, of the 
United States' army, and rendered known from set- 
tlements made on it, and from wandering hunters. 
It rises in the Black mountains, whicli separate the 
waters of the Arkansas from those of the Missouri 
and Mississippi. Several of its branches interlock 
with those of the Osage river, the Maramek, and tlie 
St. Francis. It is navigable according to the com* 
putation of several hunters with whom I have con- 
versed, about twelve hundred miles, without any 
considerable interruption; eight hundred of these 



BOOK ir. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. IBt 

may be made with barges, the rest with canoes, or 
smaller boats. The waters of this river are clear 
and limpid, the current gentle, and even in the dri- 
est season, plentifully supplied from the numerous 
and excellent springs which are every where found. 
It is not less remarkable for the many considerable 
rivers which it receives in its course. Black river 
is the largest of these ; it enters on the north east 
side, about four hundred miles up, and is navigable 
nearly five hundred miles, receiving a number of 
handsome rivers, as the Current, Eleven Point, 
and Spring rivers. The last merits a more particu- 
lar description. It issues forth, suddenly, from an 
immense spring, two hundred yards in width, afford- 
ing an uninterrupted navigation to its mouth, con- 
tracting its width, however, to fifty or sixty yards. 
It is about fifty miles in length.* This spring is full 
of the finest fish; bass, perch, pike, and others 
common in the western rivers. Besides tliis river, 
"White river receives several others from one hun- 
dred and fifty to three hundred miles in length ; as 
Eaux Cache, James river, Rapid Johiy and others 
known by various names. 

The country watered by this river has only been 
traversed by Indians and hunters, and may be con- 
sidered as still unexplored. It is spoken of with 
rapture by those who have seen it; it is described as 
being generally well wooded, and uncommonly abun- 
dant in springs and rivulets. The soil is said to be 
rich, though there are some places hilly and broken ; 
some of the hills might be more properly termed 
mountains. A hunter described to me three high 
and remarkable hills, about eight hundred miles up 

* A town or villag-e has been lately commenced at the mouth of 
this river. 



188^ MEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

the river, standing on a plain, and perfectly uncon- 
nected with any ridge. They are each about a quar- 
ter of a mile in length, their form oblong; two stand 
parallel and the third transversely ; at a distance, giv- 
ing the appearance of three w alls of some immense 
building. It has been called Jupiter's palace. Hun- 
ters agree in declaring that on the waters of this ri- 
ver, a country may be chosen, at least one hundred 
miles square, not surpassed by the best parts of 
Kentucky, and one of the best for settlements in the 
western world. 

St. Francis — Discharges itself into the Mississip- 
pi, seventy -five miles above White river, and would 
be navigable but for rafts which impede its course, 
for nine hundred miles. The western branch rises 
with the waters of White river, and the eastern, 
which is the principal, interlocks with Big river, of 
the Maramek. It is very erroneously laid down on 
the common maps ; its general course is much fur- 
tlior cast : the principal branch in fact, runs nearly 
parallel with the Mississippi in its whole length, and 
seldom recedes more than fifty miles. It is a beauti- 
ful and limpid stream, passing through a charming 
country, but afterwards, though increased in size, 
by its junction with several other rivei's, it flows 
with a slow and lazy current. The St. Francis com- 
municates with a number of lakes which lie between 
it and the Mississippi, formed by the streams which 
fiovv^ from tlie upland countiy, and lose themselves in 
the low grounds commencing at Cape Girardeau. 
This river receives several considerable streams, 
wiiich rise between it and the Mississippi; the Pe- 
misco has its source near the Big prairie, eight or 
ten miles north west of New Madrid; but generally, 
the St. Francis, in high water, overflow's its banks 



I 



BOOK II. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c. I89 

on that side to a great distance. A person, at such 
times, may easily lose the channel, unless well ac- 
quainted with its course. The western bank is gc- 
nei'ally higher and much less subject to inundation. 
Jfaramek — Is forty miles below the mouth of the 
Missouri, and heads with the Gasconade and St. 
Francis. Passes generally tlirough a broken coun- 
try, tlie flats mostly narrow. It affords excellent 
navigation to its source, a distance of more than three 
hundred miles. The source of this river is consi- 
dered a curiosity ; it is a small lake formed from 
fountains issuing immediately around the spot. Big 
river, which winds through the Mine country, is the 
principal branch. 

The Gasconade — Enters the Missouri about one hun- 
dred miles up, can be ascended in small boats nearly 
one hundred miles, but the navigation is not good on 
account of shoals and rapids. It passes through a 
hilly country, in which there probably exist mines. 
Osage river — Navigation about live hundred miles, 
though considerably impeded in places by shoals. 
Enters the Missouri 133 miles up. Principal navi- 
gable branches are Nangira, GiTtiid riTcr, the Fork, 
the Cook's river, Vermillion river. Country bor- 
dering, generally high prairie, but the bottoms are 
fine and sufficiently timbered for settlements. On 
the Nangira, about twenty miles from its mouth, 
there is a curious cascade of more than one hundred 
and fifty feet fall in the distance of four hundred 
yards; the water issues from a large spring and is 
precipitated over three different ledges of rocks, and 
falling to the l)ottom, is collected into a beautiful 
basin, from whence, it flows into this river, a con- 
sidcvable stream, xV few miles below tliis place there 
is a great abundance of iron oi*c. 



CHAP. II. 

Descriptim of the country between JSTew Madrid and 
St» Genevieve. 

The boat in which I descended the Ohio, was 
destined for New Madrid, seventy-five miles below 
the entrance of this river into the Mississippi. Two 
young men, fellow passengers, had agreed with me 
to proceed from that place to St. Genevieve on foot, 
the distance about one hundred and fifty miles. On 
our arrival, I had the misfortune to have a disagree- 
able quarrel with the owner of the boat, who had 
treated us, it seemed to me, extremely ill. In a 
strange place, and but a stripling, he endeavoured 
to crush me, but my lucky stars awarded me a tri- 
Tiiiiph ; my adversary wa» iiUmblcd, «i.il I had ths 
satisfaction of self approbation, and the pleasure of 
having gained the favorable opinion of the respecta- 
ble part of the society. 

The whole morning had passed away amidst 
wranglings and broils. My companions had already 
set out, but had promised to wait for me at the first 
cabin, about eight miles from New Madrid. It was 
not until towards evening that I was prepared to de- 
part. The clerk of the court, Mr. Humphreys, whose 
attentions I shall always recollect with gratitude, 
insisted on my taking his horse, to which I consented. 
I now bade adieu to the place where I had suffered 



I BOOK II. PACE OF THE COUNRY, &c. 191 

much in feeling, and proceeded with the lightness of 
Telemachus, after his escape from the infernal re- 
gions. 

It was the twentieth ot May. The weather in 
this latitude, exceedingly warm. As the day de- 
clines, however, the air grows cool and fresh. At 
night the coolness is even such as to render a fire in- 
dispensable. On leaving the town, I passed for a 
mile or two, through a wood of astonishingly luxu- 
riant growth, and over a plain of a loose rich soil, 
and where there is nothing to vary the scene but the 
ji variety of the vegetation. Just as the sun was sink- 
ing below the horizon, I entered one of those heauti- 
iful glades or natural meadows, which are so often 
seen in this part of the world, and never without pro- 
ducing an agreeable feeling. The storm of the pas- 
isions had ah^eady subsided in my breast : the objects 
which had successively caught my attention in jog- 
ging along, had calmed my mind, and glad fancy 
plumed her wing for a flight to scenes of ideal 
enjoyments and pleasures. In this state of mind, I 
suddenly emerged from the dark forest; tlie prairie 
spread out before me all its enchanting beauties, and 
fearful of passing too rapidly, I reined my horse. I 
gazed with delight on the smooth soft grass, on the 
numerous flowers, on the scattered shrubberies of 
sumac, with their scarlet berries which preserve 
their hues until renewed by summer, and on the close 
emboweling woods, by which this garden of the 
Dryads and Hamadryads, w as enclosed as by a w^all. 
How serene the heavenly vault above my head ! How 
rich and varied underneath my feet, the hues and 
texture of the carpet woven by the fantastic hand of 
nature ! Cold is the heart that does not harmonize 



192 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

with our universal mother, when her features wea 
an expression like this. 

It was night when I reached the further end of the 
glade, and then entered a deep forest, where the 
massy foilage almost shut out the twinkling light of 
the stars. There was no danger of straying from 
the road, for the woods are so close as to form a com- 
plete hedge. After travelling, as I conjectured, about 
f{iur miles, I heard the barking of dogs who had dis- 
covered my approach ; the sound was not disagree- 
able, as I expected here, to find my companions, and 
to repose for the night. As I drew near the settlers 
cabin, I discovered a groupe of persons seated by a 
large fire, which was burning under an enormous 
tree. " Here he comes," several voices cried out at 
once, for it seems they had been expecting me; and 
the settler coming forw ard requested liie to alight, 
with an appearance of good will whicii made me feel 
that it was sincere. The dogs who were at first very 
noisy, now whined a kind of welcome as if they 
would second the liospitality of their master. I gladly 
excepted the invitation, having been a good deal 
f hilled by tlie cold night dews. I found my com- 
panion seated in the midst of the family, and as much 
at liome as if they foi'med a part of it. The family 
consisted of the motlier and fouiteen cliildren, the 
eldest apparently about eighteen years of age a bloom- 
ing girl; the youngest an infant. They were all 
gh)wing with healtli. I made up an acquaintance in 
a few moments with a half a dozen young rogues, and 
passed tlie time agreeably. Tiic innocence, the 
cheerfulness and content, whicJi prevailed in this 
charming family, almost seemed to he without alloy. 
The scene will never fade from my recollection. 
They were neatly dressed in new cotton cloth, and 



BOOK II. FACE OF THE GOUNTHY, kc. 19:> 

had notliing* of that wretchedness or poverty, or stu- 
pid ignorance, which is hut too commojiin the un- 
fortunate peasantry of most countries. Looking 
around, I found myself in the midst of the woods ; a 
few trees were felled round the house, which was 
huilt of unhewn logs, the interstices not closed up. 
The good man having secured my hoi*se in a kind 
of shed, and given him a hundle of reeds which he 
had cut, returned to the fire and resumed his seat. I 
conversed with him on various subjects, and was 
much surprised at the good sense as well as various 
information which he possessed. He gave me a 
hrief account of his reasons for settling here. He 
was a native of Connecticut, had sold a small pro- 
perty, which he owned in the vicinity of Hartford, 
and had removed to Ohio, with the intention of pur- 
chasing a tract of land on which to support his in- 
creasing family. But on his ai-rival, he had found 
the price beyond his means, after the expenses he 
Avas obliged to incur in transporting his family. He 
had therefore come to the resolution of proceeding 
to the extreme frontier, and a few months before had 
reached New Madrid. Here he had followed the 
example of otiiers, and selected a spot on the public 
lands, in the hope of being able to make as much by 
the cultivation of the soil, as woiilil ]my for it by the 
time the office for the sale of the public domain, 
should be opened. If he slioidd not ])rove successful, 
the improvements on ihc laild, would render it more 
valuable to some one else, and in tlie mean while, he 
\voukl be able to support his family. Supper being 
now ajniouiiced, we all entered the cabin, where the 
table was spj'cad, and rough benches placed around 
it. A tin cup filled with rich milk, was placed be- 
fore each of us, and cakes of trte Indian niea), wer,e 

11 



194 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

smoking on the board. The good man said grace in 
a reverend manner, and we did ample justice to the 
simple and wholesome fare provided for us. Sur- 
rounded by health, innocence, and benevolence, who 
could complain ? If Satan himself had come here to 
plan mischief against these amiable people, and were 
thus kindly treated, he would have relented. 

After supper, we returned to the fire underneath 
the spreading tree, and whiled away the time in 
sprightly and mirthful conversation; the Yankee 
girls were very talkative, the whole family appeared 
to be delighted with our company in this lonely 
place, where they so seldom saw any strangers but 
their neighbours, the bears and wolves. The hour 
for retiring at length arrived. Our host arose, and 
addressing himself to us, " gentlemen," said he, <* it 
is the practice of our family to give a half an hour 
to religious devotion every evening: should you 
think proper to join us, we will be glad, if not, keep 
your seats, and excuse us for the present." Who 
could have declined such an invitation? A Turk 
would not have harmed tliem ; an Indian — no, the 
bloody savage would have chosen this sacred 
moment, to have rushed upon them with the murdei*- 
ous knife. My companions, who were rather loose 
in their habits and principles, and I, with shame it 
is confessed, far from being as good as I ought to 
be, felt a desire to join in the good man's devotions, 
if not for the first time, at least never with so much 
sincerity. We again entered the house, where they 
sung one of Watts' pious hymns, after which, our 
host poured out a prayer that seemed to flow from 
the very bottom of his heart. Tlie evening service 
was concluded by another hymn, after which, it be- 
ing time to retire to rest, we were shewn up to the 



BOOK II. FACE OP THE COUNTRY, Sec, 19j 

loft, to which we ascended by a ladder. A few blan- 
kets and bcai* skins, had been provided for us ; we 
resij^ned ourselves to sleep, in the consciousness 
that even such wretches as we, could not fail of expe- 
riencing the care of the protecting angel, set once to 
guard this charming family from the approach of 
guile.* 

How different the piety of these people from the 
intolerance of fanaticism ? that deadly enemy of re- 
ligion. Is there a man so depraved and wicked, as 
not to feel inward involuntary reverence, on ap- 
proaching the shrine, wliere with decent humility, 
the sinner offers, on the altar of his God, the sacra- 
fice of a contrite and grateful heart ! But the scorn 
and derision which the fanactic provokes, gives a 
wound to religion herself, whose cause he thinks to 
promote. I trust, that I shall always entertain a just 
sentiment of whatever tends to lessen the salutary 
influence of religion : for it is the soui. or soci- 
ety. No nation has ever existed without finding it 

* Truth compels me to relate some further particulars respect- 
ing* this interesting' family, which will be painful to the reader. 
The autumn following", I had to visit New Madrid, and anticipated 
much pleasure in seeing these worthy people. But alas! as I 
drew near the house, every thuig appeared still about it, and on 
my making a noise, the good man, emaciated to a skeleton, crawl- 
ed out, and after recognizing, informed me in the most pathetic, 
yet composed manner, of a train of misfortunes which had be- 
fallen him. His whole family had been assailed by violent bilious 
fevers, his wife and five of his children were no more, and the 
rest, with the exception of two boys, who were then extremely 
ill, had been kindly taken away by some of the old settlers, that 
they might be the better attended to ; but, said he, " God's will 
be done — it is all for the best." — I could have wept like Niobe. 

I must also add, that the season was more unhealthy than had 
been known for twenty years, and that the settler had unfortu- 
nately built his cabin on the border of a pond, wliich became stag- 
nant in summer. 



l^ VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

indispensable. To thousands it is the silent and 
subtle monitor which guides and governs in gentle 
whispers, where the voice of human law is silent. 
To millions it is the fountain of bliss, of fortitude, 
of consolation, of hope, of happiness unspeakable. 
What shall I say of the mad and impious man who 
thinks to destroy it? He is worse than the traitor, 
for he wars not against a form of government, but 
stabs at the existence of society itself; he is worse 
than the robber or the murderer, for he steals what 
riches cannot buy, and destroys an eternal life. 

We rose with the sun, and took leave of our kind 
host, who positively refused to receive any compen- 
sation for our entertainment. In two days, we reach- 
ed Cape Girardeau. As it is not my intention to 
swell this volume with incidents, I will endeavour 
to give a general description of the country over 
which we passed. 

About twenty miles below Cape Girardeau, and 
thirty-five from the mouth of the Ohio, the limestone 
rock terminates abruptly, and there commences aa 
immense plain, stretching with scarcely any inter- 
ruption, to the Balize. It is successively traversed 
by the St. Francis, White river, Arkansas, Washita, 
and Red river. This flat may be considered, on an 
average, about thirty miles wide, and with hardly 
an exception, is without a hill or a stone. The soil 
is generally rich, and has tlie appearance of being al- 
luvial, though there is a greater proportion of sand, 
than is usual, in the neighbourhood of the rivers. 
It is a common idea, but very erroneous, that this is 
a continued swamp, or rather low land, subject to 
inundation. Tiiere are doubtless a great many 
swamps, and lakes, interspersed with the plains; 
Ifut there are also extensive bodies of land fit for cul- 



BOOK II. PACE OF THE COUNTRY, &c. 197 

tivation. The swamps, and wet lands, I tliink, 
miglit be drained without any great difficulty. At 
some future day, this will be the Flanders of Ame- 
rica. 

It is worthy of observation, that from the Mara- 
mek, to tlie mouth of the St. Francis, upwards of five 
hundred miles, no river of any consequence, empties 
into the Mississippi ; the considerable rivers, as the 
St. Francis, Black river, and Osage, fall to the south 
west, or to tlie Missouri. It is therefore probable, 
that when these countries become settled, the pro- 
duce, fifty or sixty miles west of the Mississippi^ 
will be carried to market by those channels. In the 
summer floods, there is an almost continued connec- 
tion between th^ lakes east of the St. Francis, by 
means of these ; at that period, a person may go 
from this river to New Madrid. 

Leaving the upland at Cape Girardeau, we enter 
what has been called the great swamp: though it 
does not properly possess this character. The tim- 
ber is not such as is usually found in swamps, but 
fine oak, ash, olive, linn, beech and poplar, of enor- 
mous growth. The soil a rich black loam. In the 
fall, it is nearly dry; the road which passes through, 
being only muddy in particular spots: but during 
the season of high water, it is extremely disagreea- 
ble crossing it. The horse sinks at every step, to 
the belly in water and loose soil ; and in places en- 
tirely covered, the traveller, but for the marks on tlie 
ti'ces, would be in danger of losing the road alto- 
gether. This swamp is sixty miles in length, and 
tour broad, widening as it approaches the St. Fran- 
cis. In the season of high water, the Mississippi 
and the river just mentioned, have a complete con- 
nection by means of this low land. 



198 VIEWS- OP LOUISIANA. 

After crossing the swamp, there commences a 
i'idge of higli land, running in the same course, and 
on the Mississippi, bounding what is called Tywa- 
pety bottom: tliis ridge, in approaching the St. 
Francis westward, subsides. In passing over it, we 
appear to be in a hilly country, possessing springs 
and rivulets ; tlie soil, though generally poor and 
sandy, is tolerably well timbered, and not altogether 
unfit for tillage. 

After passing this high land, we enter again the 
level plain. The road crosses two lakes, one of 
which, forms the Bayou St. John, at New Madrid ; 
the other is connected with lakes to the westward. 
They are four or five feet deep, and several hundred 
yards wide, with clean sandy bottoms. These lakes 
are formed by the rivulets of the upland before de- 
scribed; they rise or fall but little. During the fall 
season, they are the resort of vast numbers of wild 
fowl, and are full of fish. 

The traveller now enters a perfect level, alter- 
nately prairie, and beautiful woods of tall oak, wal- 
nut, mulberry, sassafras, honey locust, perfectly 
open, as though planted by art. Those of the shrubby 
kind, are usually on tracts of ground apart from 
the groves of Jarger trees. They are the plum, ca- 
talpa, dog wood, spice wood, and the difterent spe- 
cies of the sumac. The prairies, or natural mea- 
dows, ^re covered with grass and a profusion of 
flowers. Herds of cattle, of two or three hundred, 
are seen, and contribute to the pleasure of viewing 
these natural meads. The Mig prairie^ twenty -five 
miles from New Madrid, and through which tJie 
public road passes is a delightful spot; it is about 
eight miles long, and four broad, enclosed by woods, 
and interspersed with beautiful groves, reseiubJing 



BOOK II. FACE OP THE COUNTRY, &c. 199 

small islands in a lake. It is not surpassed in beauty 
the richest meadow, improved with the greatest 
care. In passing througli these prairies I stopped 
under the shady tree, by tlie road side, and suffered 
my horse to feed, while I feasted on straw^berries of 
a superior size and flavor. A number of good farms 
are scattered round tlie edges of the prairie, and a 
few within. 

Tliis description may give some idea of the coun- 
try to the south west as far as the Arkansas. Ex- 
cept, that the prairies are larger, the lakes and the 
inundations towards the Mississippi more consider- 
able, and every thing on a larger scale. But, it is 
extremely difficult to give a correct notion of the to- 
pography of a country, from bare description; a 
well regulated map would be indispensably neces- 
sary. 

The soil of the praii4e, is more light and loose 
than in the woods, and has a greater mixture of 
sand, but, when wet, assumes every where, a deep 
black color, and an oily appearance. Judging from 
the borders of the lakes, and the wells which have 
been dug, this soil does not seem to be more than 
three feet deep. But after digging through a stratum 
of sand, there appears a kind of clay, of a dirty yel- 
low, and of a soapy appearance; this is the 
substratum of the whole country, and is, perhaps, a 
kind of marl, the deposit of very ancient alluvia. 
No stones are met with in any of these wells, that I 
have heard of. 

The greatest objection to tliis country is the want 
of fountains and running streams. Water is pro- 
cured in wells of the deptli of twenty-five or thirty 
feet ; but the taste is not agreeable, owing most pro 
bably to their being lined with mulberry, which soon 
decays, and gives its taste to the water. 



209 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

On the other side of the Big prairie, as we advance 
to the Mississippi, the soil appears to he stronger, 
and the vegetation exceedingly luxuriant. Trees 
are seen of the most towering height, thick under- 
wood, and enormous vines, binding, as it were, those 
sturdy giants, to the earth, and to each other. To 
clear those forests, requires an immense labor, but 
the American settlers usually prefer them, from the 
superior quality of the land. The Creole, on the 
contrary, generally makes choice of the open ground 
or prairie. The one, whom scarcely any considera- 
•tion will persuade to remain long in the same place, 
chooses a soil which promises to last forever, while 
the other, who is seldom induced to change, sits 
down on land that may wear out in a few years. 



CHAP. III. 

Ikscripiion of the Country from Cape Girardeau (o 
the Missouri. 

Notwithstanding the variety of beauties, which 
attract the attention of the traveller, in passing 
through these low lands, one who has been ac- 
customed " to the pleasant vicissitude of hill and 
dale," becomes at length wearied with the sameness 
of the scenery, and experiences a relief, on emerg- 
ing to the high land at Cape Girardeau. From this 
place to the Missouri, the country may be called 
hilly and broken, but with excellent flats, or bot- 
toms, on the creeks and rivulets, of a width usually 
proportioned to the size of the stream. The river 
hills of the Mississippi, perhaps from five to ten miles 
eut, are in many places far from being prepossessing. 
They are badly watered, have many rugged and 
abrupt acclivities; and considerable precipices on 
the river. A strange appearance is also given by 
the number of funnels, or sink holes^ formed by the 
washing of the earth into fissures of the limestone 
rock, on which the country reposes. In other pla- 
ces, flint knobs present themselves, strewed with 
huge masses of horn stone, and affording a scanty 
nourishment to a few straggling black jacks, or 
groves of pine. But it is not to be understood that 
thjfi forms the greatest proportion of the lands : a 



202 M[EWS Oy LOUISIANA. 

*more minute description of particula:i:» parts will 
prove the contrary. Even in these places there is 
abundance of fine grass, affording excellent pastur- 
age. 

For thirty miles above Cape Girardeau, (with the 
exception of some places near the Mississippi) and 
extending back to the St. Francis, there is a coun- 
try not unlike that around the head of the Ohio ; 
though not quite so hilly. The timber nearly the 
same, hickory, oak, ash, walnut, maple, and well 
supplied with springs and rivulets. 

North of Apple creek, there is a tract on the river, 
of very unpromising aspect, extending to the Saline, 
within nine miles of St. Genevieve. It is scarcely 
£t for tillage, badly watered, with woods of a poor 
and straggling growth ; but to make amends in some 
degree, for the sterility of the upland, there is a fine 
bottom (Bois brule) terminating just below the Sa- 
line, of twenty miles in leng-th, and on average three 
in width. In the neighbourhood of the Saline ci-eek 
the land is exceedingly broken and hilly, though to- 
lerably well timbered, and not altogether unfit for 
cultivation. On the a'Vase,* there are many fine 
ti'acts, and extensive flats. 

From St. Genevieve to the Maramek, and ex- 
tending back, the same description will apply, ex- 
cept that the country is more rough and broken, but 
generally better watered, being traversed by la ri- - 
viere Habitation, Big river, the Mineral Fork, the I 
Platin, and the Joachin. In some places the country 

* Apple creek, the Saline, and the a*Vase, are considerable 
streams, which rise, as well as Big- river (a branch of the Mara- 
mek) and some other streams, in a high ridge, about fifty miles 
west of the Mississippi, which separates these waters from those 
Of the St Francl-j. 



*i 



BOOK U. FACE OP TUB COUNTRY, See. 205' 

is exceedingly wild and romantic. Ledges of lime- 
stone rock frequently shew themselves on the sides 
of hills, forming precipices of twenty or thirty feet 
high, and have miicli the appearance of regular and 
artificial walls. What is somewhat singular, they 
are generally near the top of the hill, which gradu- 
ally slopes down to the vale of some rivulet : a view 
of great extent and magnificence is presented to the 
eye ; rocks, woods, distant hills, and a sloping lawn 
of many miles. The w hole forming prospects the 
most romantic and picturesque. Near col. Ham- 
mond's farm, there is a natural curiosity worth no- 
ticing. A hill, commanding a most extensive pros- 
pect, embracing a scope of fifteen or twenty miles, 
and in some directions more, is completely surround- 
ed by a precipice of the sort described. It is called 
Rock Fort, and might answer the purpose of fortifi- 
cation; it is nearly two hundred feet higher than the 
surrounding hills, and on the top there is a level 
space of ten acres, overgrown with trees ; the soil is 
good. The Platin, which winds at the base of the 
hill, and whose meandering course can be traced by 
the sicamore and other trees peculiar to river bot- 
toms, render the prospect still more agreeable. The 
fort is accessible only by two narrow passes up the 
precipice or wall, and a ftne fountain issues out of 
the rock. 

North of the Maramek there are fewer rugged 
hills ; the land is waving. Towards the river, nearly 
to St. Louis, the country is not well watered, it is 
also thinly timbered, and the soil but indifterent. On 
Grave, and in the Bon Homme settlement, between 
the Maramek and the Missouri, the land is good, 
and generally well adapted to cultivation. Between 
St. Louis and the Missouri, with but trilling cxcep- 



204, VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

tions, the lands are of a superior quality ; there are 
some beautiful spots, as the village of Florissant, 
and the environs. No description can do justice to 
the beauty of this tract. The Missouri bottoms are 
covered with heavy timber, and by many are prefer- 
red to those of the Mississippi or of the Ohio. 

The tract of country north of the Missouri, is less 
hilly than that on the south, but there is a much 
greater proportion of prairie. It has a waving sur- 
face, varied by those dividing ridges of streams, 
which in Kentucky, are called knohs. These prai- 
ries, it is well known, are caused by repeated and 
desolating fires, and the soil is extremely fertile. 

The plains of Indiana and Illinois have been mostly 
produced by the same cause. They are very dif- 
ferent from the Savannah's on the seaboard, and the 
immense plains of the Upper Missouri. In the prai- 
ries of Indiana, I have been assured that the woods 
in places have been known to recede, and in others 
to increase, within the recollection of the old inha- 
bitants. In moist places, the woods are still stand- 
ing, the fire meeting there with obstruction. Trees, 
if planted in these prairies, would doubtless grow. 
In the islands, preserved by accidental causes, the 
progress of the fire can be traced ; the first burning 
would only scorch the outer bark of the tree; litis 
would render it more susceptible to tlse next, and the 
thii^ would completely kill. I have seen in places, 
at present com])kteIy prairie, pieces of burnt trees, 
proving that the prairie had been caused by fire. 
The grass is usually very luxuriant, which is not ihc 
case in the plains of tlie Missouri. Theie may doubt- 
less be spots where the propoHion of salts, or other 
bodies, may be such, as to favor the growtji of grasp 
only. 



BOOK n. FACE OF THE COUNTRY, kc. 205 

Such woods as remain are fine, but the quantity 
of adjoining prairie is usually too great. Tliere 
are large tracts, however, admirably suited for set- 
tlements : a thousand acres or more of wood land, 
surrounded by as much of prairie. It is generally 
well watered with fine streams, and also interspersed 
with lakes. There is an extensive strip of land 
along this side of the Missouri, of nearly thirty miles 
in width, and about one hundred and fifty in length, 
altogether woods, and of excellent soil. An old gen- 
tleman who has seen Kentucky a wilderness, inform • 
ed me, that the appearance of this tract is similar, 
with the exception of its not being covered with 
cane, and a forest so dark and heavy. The *< Forks 
of the Missouri," (such is the name given to the 
northern angle, formed by the two great rivers.) 
daily increases in reputation, and is settling faster 
than any part of the territory. 

The Missouri bottoms, alternately appearing on 
one side or other of the river, we have already 
iieen, are very fi ne for three hundred miles up, gene- 
rally covered with heavy timber; tlie greatest part 
of which is cotton wood, of enormous size. The 
bottoms are usually about two miles in width, and 
entirely free from inundation. The bottoms of the 
Mississippi are equally extensive and rich, but not 
so well wooded. They are in fact a continued suc- 
cession of the most beautiful prairies or meadows. 
The tract called Les Mamelles^ from the circumstance 
of several mounds, bearing the appearance of aiij, 
projecting from the bluff some distance into the 
plain, may be worth describing as a specimen. It 
is about three miles from St. Charles ; I visited it 
last summer. To those who have never seen any of 
these prairies, it is very difficult to convey any just 

s 



^06 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA 

idea of them. Perhaps thq comparison to the smooth 
green sea, is the best. Ascending the mounds, I was 
elevated about one hundred feet above the plain ; I 
had a view of an immense plain below, and a dis- 
tant prospect of hills. Every sense was delighted, 
and every faculty awakened. After gazing for an, 
hour, I still continued to experience an unsatiated de-J 
light, in contemplating the rich and magnificeni 
scene. To the right, the Missouri is concealed byj 
a wood of no great width, extending to the Missis-j 
sippi, the distance of ten miles. Before me I could 
mark tlie course of the latter river, its banks without 
even a fringe of wood ; on the other side, the hills 
of the Illinois, faced with limestone, in bold masses 
of various lines, and the summits crowned with trees : 
pursuing these hills to the north, we see, at the dis- 
tance of tv, enty miles, where the Illinois separates 
them, in bis course to the Mississippi. To the left, 
we behold the ocean of prairie, with islets at inter- 
vals. Tbe whole extent perfectly level, covered 
v/ithlong waving grass, and at every moment chang- 
ing color, from the shadows cast by the passing 
clouds. In some places there stands a solitary tree 
of cotton wood or walnut, of enormous size, but 
from the distance, diminished to a shrub. A bun- 
dred thousand acres of the finest land are under tbe 
eye at once, and yet on all this space, there is but 
one little cultivated spot to be seen ! The eyes, at 
last, satiated with the survey of this beautiful scene, 
the mind in turn expatiates on tbe improvements 
of whicb it is susceptible, aiul creative fancy adorns 
it witb happy dwellings and ricbly cultivated fields, 
l^lic situation in the vicinity of these great rivers, 
the fertility of the soil, a garden spot, must one day 
yield nourisliment to a multitude of beings. The 



BOOK 11. FACE OF THE COUNTRY, See. 207 

bluffs are abundantly supplied with the purest water; 
those rivulets, and rills, which at present, unable to 
reach the father of waters, lose tliemselves in lakes 
and marshes, will be guided by the hand of man into 
channels fitted for their reception, and for his plea- 
sure and felicity* 



CHAP. IV. 

Political divisions — Inhcibitants^^ Settlements — • 
FopiUation, 

Shortly after tlie taking possession of tliis terri- 
tory, it was divided by proclamation of governor 
Harrison, into six districts : 

1. St. Charles, 4. Cape Girardeau, 

2. St. Louis, 5. New Madrid, 

3. St. Genevieve, 6. Arkansas. 

The territorial legislature has again subdivided 
these districts into townships. The term <* district" 
corresponds with the county of the states. 

The inhabitants are composed of whites, Indians, 
metiffs, a few civilized Indians, and negro slaves. 

The whites, consist of the ancient inhabitants, and 
of those who have settled since the change of go- 
vernment. The former are chiefly of French ori- 
gin ; there were scarcely more than three or four 
Spanish families in this province, and the citizens of 
the United States, although advantageous offers were 
held out to them, rarely settled on this side of the ri- 
ver. The French inhabitants resided in villages, 
and cultivated common fields adjacent to them, in 
the manner of many parts of Europe ; it was here, 
also, rendered in some degree necessary from their 
situation. There were always good reasons to ap- 
prehend the attacks of Indians ; of which, on some 



BOOK n. POLITICAL DIVISIONS, &c. ^09' 

occasions, they had a fatal experience. The small 
number el" Americans settled here, is also owing to 
the tide of emigration having set in for the western 
states. Kentucky, Ohio and Tennessee, were yet 
unpeopled. Besides, until it was transferred to the 
United States, there was no security against the de- 
predations of Indians. 

For these three last years, the settlements have 
been increasing rapidly. The American mode of 
living on detached farms, has been adopted by a 
number of the Fi-ench inhabitants of villages, and 
the settlements extend in larger or smaller groups. 

The frontier, at least below tlie Missouri, may be 
said to have retired sixty miles west of tlie Missis- 
sippi, and the settlements on the rivers are perfectly 
safe from the attacks of a savage enemy, shoidd any 
be apprehended. Within the last two years, farms 
have been opened from the Missouri to the Arkansas,^ 
on the Mississippi; and on this river, above the 
Missouri, they extend, at distant intervals, to the 
Prairie du Chien. On the Missouri, they extend 
upwards of two hundred miles from the mouth of the 
river. Near Fort Clark, there are a few farms 
which have lately been opened. 

Next to the banks of the navigable rivers, the pub- 
lic roads form the greatest inducement for making 
settlements. There are consequently establish- 
ments on nearly all the roads wliich traverse the ter- 
ritory ; seldom at a greater distance than five or six 
miles from each other. 

An enumeration of the principal settlements will 
not be uninteresting — I shall therefore begin with 
those of the district of St. Louis. That of Bon 
Homme is amongst the most noted ; it is on a creek 
of that name, about fifteen miles from St. Louis : at 



210 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

this place the Maramek and Missouri come within 
eight miles of each other. The land is said to he 
good, and there are in this settlement some very 
respectahle farmers. La riviei'e des Peres, and a 
branch of it called Grave, are also tolerably well in- 
habited; from its vicinity to Bon Homme, it maybe 
considered a part of the same settlement. La rivere 
des Peres, is a handsome stream which enters the 
Mississippi between St. Louis and the Maramek. 
On the Missouri, from the junction to the mouth of 
Bon Homme, there is a continued and excellent set- 
tlement. Immediately on the Maramek the land is 
broken, but well adapted to the culture of grain : 
the liver bottoms, I have already observed, are of 
small extent, and but few farms have yet been open- 
ed. Between the Maramek and the Platen, there 
are a considerable number of scattered settlers ; and 
in the neighbourhood of the Joachin, numerous and 
extensive improvements. 

In the district of St. Genevieve, the principal 
compact settlements are on Big river, which passes 
through tlie tract of lead mines : the largest, that of 
Bellevue, is aboiit fifty miles west of the town of St, 
Genevieve. There is also a settlement on the St. 
Francis, within this district, perhaps not inferior to 
any. In the neighbourhood of the mines, there ara 
usually a number of farms. On la riviere Habita- 
tion, the a'Vase, on the Saline, and on Apple creek, 
there are amimber of small settlements, and all over 
^he district tlicre are scattered farms. Bois bi'ule 
bottom has also a number of good plantations. 

Cape Girardeau, contains some of the best settle- 
ments in the territory. Burd's is tlie principal ; it is 
a few miles from the Mississippi, on excellent land; 
the improvements extensive. There is also a larg® 



BOOK U. POLITICAL DIVISIONS, kc, 2U 

settlement of Germans, about thirty miles \Test of the 
town. Ihey live well, and are becoming easy in 
their circumstances : there are also a number of 
good farms in Tywapety bott(»m. In general the 
settlements ai-e much scattered in this district. 

In the district of St. Charles, the settlements are 
also considerable. TJiey extend up the Missouri, 
nearly two hundred miles. Though between tlie 
more considerable groups, the plantations are thinly 
scattered. Charrette, is the next village after St. 
Charles, about fifty miles above; it is composed of 
ten or twelve French families, who live close togeth- 
er, after the ancient custom. There are about forty 
families on Salt river, above this, who live in the 
American mode. At the Otter island, there is a 
settlement, large enougli to afford a company of mi- 
litia. Below tlie Osage river, but within sight, on 
the opposite side of the Missouri, there is a French 
village of about twenty families ;. it is called Cote 
sans Dessein. But far tlie best settlement on the 
Missouri, is that near the Mine river, on the north 
east side of the river, and extending about six miles 
along the bank. There are here about eighty fami- 
lies ; some engaged in working salines on the river 
before mentioned. Several of them have slaves. 
They will^be completely able to defend themselves 
against any Indians that may be dreaded in this 
quai-ter. There are some good settlements on the 
riviere de Cuivre, near the mouth; but they are 
much scattered in the forks of the Missouri. A man 
"who was up through that country last summer^ for 
the purpose of looking at the laml, told me that he 
found five families near the heads of the Cuivre ;^ 
sixty or seventy miles distant from any other settle- 
ment : he happened on this group when he had not 



212 Views of Louisiana. 

the most distant expectation of meeting with any 
one. In case of war, these poor stragglers will most 
probably be butchered, unless fortunate enough ta 
escape into the settlements. 

The district of New Madrid is but thinly inhabit- 
ed, considering the great proportion of fine land 
which it contains. There are some good farms in 
the neighbourhood of the village. There are also 
some settlements on the St. Francis, on the banks 
of the Mississippi, and through the prairies towards 
Cape Girardeau : particularly on the public road. 
I travelled over it when it was a wilderness ; the 
contrast even naw, is pleasing : some one who passes 
here at a future day, will find still greater cause of 
wonder. Little Prairie, thirty miles below New 
Madrid, on the river, is a considerable settlement. 

The settlements of the Arkansas, are principally 
in the neighbourhood of the Arkansas Post, or ex 
tend up the river, and are the least considerable of 
the territory. 

There are besides, a number of small groups 
through the White river country; but so scattered 
and remote, that it is difficult to obtain any infor- 
mation respecting them. A number of families in the 
course of the present year, have removed to Spring 
river, and others are preparing for it. Several fa- 
milies who arrived at St. Genevieve from the Dis- 
tri*"t of Maine, have actually set out for the same 
place. A village has been commenced at the mouth 
of Spring river, and consists already of a store, ta- 
vern^^ &c. There seems to i)revail a rage amongst 
the frontiers men, for emigration to that quarter. 

The emigi'ants to this territory, are chiej8y from 
North Carolina and Kentucky; of late, the western 
part of Pennsylvania contributes considerably to its 



BOOK n. POLITICAL DIVISIONS, &c. 213 

population. The excellence and cheapness of the 
lands, besides the permission of holding slaves, will 
cause this territwy to be preferred by emigrants 
from the southern states, to any part of the western 
country, unless it be on the lower parts of the Mis-- 
sissippi, whose unhealthy climate, independent of 
the high price of lands, will counterbalance many 
other advantages. 

It is perhaps good policy in our government, cir- 
cumstances considered, to thicken the frontier, and 
to suffer the intermediate space to fill up gradually. 
But it is scarcely necessary to hold out inducements 
for this pui-pose ; it has already taken a start, which 
it will be almost impossible to arrest. The uncer- 
tainty in a great number of the land titles, particu- 
larly of the large claimants, presents an obstacle to 
the torrent of emigration ; but I should not be sur- 
prised, if in five years, this territory should contain 
sixty thousand souls. 

The manners of the first settlers are not such as 
w^riters usually represent them. A principal cause 
of their removal to the frontier, is the want of wild 
pasturage, or rmige, as it is called, for their cattle ; 
and those who have been accustomed to the greater 
ease and freedom of this half shepherd life, naturally 
desire a continuance. These people, advancing 
westward, into the vast plains which do not admit 
of compact settlements, may come still nearer to the 
pastoral state. The remote settlers, contrary to 
what w^ould be supposed, from their situation, are 
not only shrewd and intelligent, but also far from 
illiterate. The most trifling settlement, will con- 
trive to have a school master, who can teach read- 
ing, writing, and some arithmetic. Very different 
from the good natured, but unenterprising creole, 



214 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

-wlio does not know a letter of the alphabet. A lady, 
who had resided with her husband two years at fort 
Osage, three hundred miles up the Missouri, told me, 
that descending the river, on her return from that 
place, she observed on the very spot, where, on 
ascending, she had seen a herd of deer, several chil- 
dren with books in their hands, returning from 
school ! The settlement had been formed while she 
was at the fort. 

The frontier is cei*tainly the refuge of many 
worthless and abandoned characters, but it is also 
the choice of many of the noblest souls. It seems 
wisely ordered, that in the part which is weakest, 
"where tlie force of laws is scarcely felt, there should 
be found the greatest sum of real courage, and of 
disinterested vii'tuc. Few young men who have 
migrated to the frontier, are without merit. From 
the firm conviction, of its future importance, gene- 
rous and enterprising youtli, the virtuous, unfortu- 
nate, and those of moderate patrimony, repair to it, 
that they may grow up with the country, and form 
establishments for themselves and families. Hence 
in this territory, there are many sterling characters. 
Amongst others, I mention with pleasure, that brave 
and adventurous Noi-th Carolinian, who makes so 
distinguished a figure in the history of Kentucky, 
the venerable col. Boon. This res])ectable old man, 
in the eighty-fifth year of his age, resides on Salt ri- 
ver, up the Missouri, at the settmelent I have before 
mentioned. He is surrounded by about forty fami- 
lies, who respect him as a father, and who live un- 
der a kind of patriarchal governmeiit, ruled by his 
advice and example. They are not necessitous per- 
sons, who have tied for their crimes or misfortunes, 
like those that gathered unto David, in the cave of 



tlOOK 11. POLITICAL DIVISIONS, &c. 21S 

Adullam ; they all live well, and possess the neces- 
saries and comforts of life, as they could wish. They 
retirea through choice. Perhaps they acted wisely 
in ])lacing themselves at a distance from the deceit 
and turbulence of the world. They enjoy An unin- 
terrupted (luiet, and a real comfort in tlieir little so- 
ciety, beyond the sphere of that larger society^ 
where government is necessary; wliere, without 
walls of adamant, and bands of iron, the Anarch 
Fiend, or the Monster JDespotiam, would trample 
their security, their happiness, and their dearest 
possessions under foot. Here they are truly free ; 
exempt from the vexing duties and impositions, even 
of the best governments ; they are neither assailed 
hy the madness of ambition, nor tortured by the poi- 
son of party spirit. Is not tliis one of the most 
powerful incentives, which impels the wandering 
Anglo-American, to bury himself in the midst of the 
wilderness ? 

The following is an abstract of the population of 
the territory, according to the last census : 
St. Charles - - - - 3,505 
St. Louis - - - - 5,667 
St. Genevieve - - - 4,620 
Cape Girardeau - - - 3,888 
New Madrid - - - - 3,103 
Hope Field I .^ 

St. Francis J - - ' - a»^ 
Arkansas 874 



21,840 



Allow for the troops at the military 

posts in this territory - - - - 200 

Hunting and trading parties up the 

Missouri and Mississii)pi - - - 500 



216 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Families settled in remote places, 

and not found by the sheriff - - 800 



23,140 
Of these, 8,011 are slaves; the number of civilized 
Indians and of metiffs, not known, but cannot be 
considerable. 



CHAPTERS. 

Towns and Villages^ 

Amongst tlic Americans, every assemblage of 
houses, no matter of how small a number, is .deno- 
minated a town; in this country every place except 
New Orleans, however considerable, or extensive, 
is called a village. In the states, those who follow 
the plough, are scattered over the country ; while 
the mecTianics, and retailers of merchandise, ga- 
ther in a cluster. Hence the difference in the ap- 
pearance of the tow^ns or villages of this country. 
Althougli there is something like regularity of 
streets, and the houses are built in front of them, 
they do not adjoin, while the gardens, orchards, and 
stables, occupy a considerable space of ground. 
Eacli house with its appurtenances, has the appear- 
ance of one of our farm yards. All kinds of cattle, 
cows, hogs, sheep, mingle with the passengers, iu 
the streets. These tenements are genci'ally en- 
closed witli cedar pickets, placed in the manner of 
stockades, and sometimes with stone walls. The 
liouses are built in a very singular form, and it is 
said, copied after the fashion of the West Indies. 
They do ffot exceed one story in height, and those 
of tlie more wealthy are surroui^tled with spacious 
galleries ; some only on one or two sides, while tlie 
poorer class arc obliged to put up with nuked walU% 



218 - VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

These galleries are extremely useful ; they rendep 
the house cool and agreeable in summer, and afford 
a pleasant promenade in the heat of the day. 

In building their houses, the logs, instead of being 
laid horizontally, as ours, are placed in a perpendi- 
cular position, the inteistices closed with eaith or 
stone, as with us. This constitutes a more durable 
dwelling, and it retains its shape much longer. The 
roof is extremely broad, extending out with a gra- 
dual slope, for the purpose of affording a covering to 
the gallery. AVithin these two years, some altera- 
tions are perceptible in the general appearance of the 
villages, from the introduction of a new mode of 
building by the Americans, of frame, stone, or brick, 
and in the use of what was before unknown, signs 
and boards, to indicate the residence of persons foi- 
iowing different trades or occupations : although a 
trifling circumstance, it is a characteristic. 

In none of the villages or towns is there a market 
house; the reason I have already mentioned, the in- 
habitants raised their own provisions, and were all 
cultivators of the soil. 

St. Louis — Is the seat of government of the terri- 
tory, and has always been considered the principal 
town. It was formerly called Pain Court, from the 
privations of the first settlers.* It is situated in 
latitude 38 degrees 23 minutes north, lt)ng. 89 de- 
grees 36 minutes west. 

This place occupies one of the best situations on 
the Mississippi, both as to site and geographical po- 
sition. In this last respect, the conflu^ice of the 

* Jud^ng from many of the names of villag"es, one might sup- 
pose that they had not been settled under the most happy aus- 
pices ; tliere are Jrisere^ Creve-coexir and Vuidepacke ! 



BOOK II. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 219 

Oliio and tlie Mississippi, has certainly mucli greater 
natural advantaj^os, but the ground is subject to 
inundation, and St. Louis has taken a start, wliich 
it will most probably retain. It is perhaps not say- 
ing too much, that it bids fair to be second to jSew 
Orleans in importance, on tliis river. 

The ground on which St. Louis stands is not much 
higher than the ordinary hanks, but the floods are 
repelled by a bold shore of limestone rocks. The 
town is built between the river and a second bank, 
three streets running parallel with the river, and a 
number of others crossing these at right angles. It 
is to be lamented that no space has been left between 
the town and the river ; for the sake of the pleasure 
of the promenade, as well as for business and health, 
there should have been no encroachment on the 
margin of the noble stream. The principal place of 
business ought to have been on the bank. From the 
opposite side, nothing is visible of the busy bustle of 
a populous town ; it appears closed up. The sitg 
of St. Louis is not unlike that of Cincinnati. liow 
different would have been its api)earance, if built in 
the same elegant manner : its bosom opened to tha 
breezes of the river, the streams enlivened by scenes^ 
of business and pleasure, and rows of elegant and 
tasteful dwellings, looking with pride on the broad 
wave that passes ! 

From the opposite bank, St. Louis, notwitlistand- 
ing, appears to great advantage. In a disjoined and 
scattered manner it extends along the river a mile 
and an half, and we form tlie idea of a large and ele- 
gant town. Two or three large and costly buildings 
(tliough not in the modern taste) contribute in pro- 
ducing this effect. On closer examination, tlie town 
«cems to be composed of an equal proportion of stone. 



JO VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

Vails, houses, and fruit trees : but the illusion still 
continues. 

On ascending the second bank, which is about 
forty feet above the level of the plain, we have the 
town kelow us, and a view of the Mississippi in 
each direction, and of the fine country through 
which it passes. When the curtain of wood wiiich 
conceals the American bottom shall have been with- 
drawn, or a vista formed by opening farms to the 
river, there will be a delightfid prospect into that 
rich and elegant tract. Tlie bottom at this place is 
not less than eigl»t miles wide, and iinely diversified 
with prairie and woodland. 

There is a line of vrorks on this second bank, 
erected for defence against the Indians, consisting 
t)f several circular towers, twenty feet in diameter, 
and fifteen in height, a small stockaded fort, and a 
stone breast work. These are at present entirely 
unoccupied and waste, excepting the fort, in one of 
the buildings of which, the courts are held, while; the 
other is used as a prison. Some distance from the 
termination of tiiis line, up tiie river, there are a 
number of Indian mounds, and remains of antiquity; 
which, while they arc ornamental to the town, prove, 
that in former, times, those places had also been 
chosen as the site, perhaps, of a populous city. 

Looking to the west, a most charming country 
spreads itself before us. It is neitiier very level nor 
hilly, bat olaii agreeable waving surface, and rising 
for sevei-ai miles with an ascent almost impercepti- 
ble. Exce})t a small belt to the north, there are no 
trees ; the rest is covered with shrubby oak, inter 
mixed with iiazels, and a few trifling thickets, of 
thorn, crab a]>ple, or plumb trees. At the first 
glance we are reminded of the environs of a great. 



BOaiv ID. TOWXS AXD VILLAGES. ^'2i 

city ; but there are no country scats, or even plain 
farm houses : it is a vast waste, yet by no means a 
barren soil. Such is the appearance, uiitil turning 
to the left, the eye ai^ain catches the Mississippi. A 
number of fine springs take their rise here, and con- 
tribute to the uneven appearance. The greater 
part fall to the S. W. and aid in forming a beautiful 
rivulet, which a short distance below the town 
gives itself to tlie river. I have been often delighted 
in my solitary walks, to trace the rivulet to its 
sources. Three miles from town, but within view, 
amongst a few tall oaks, it rises in four or five 
silver fountains, within short distances of each 
other: presenting a picture to the fancy of the 
poet, or the pencil of the painter. I have fancied 
myself for a moment on classic ground, and beheld 
the Naiads pouring the stream from their urns. 

Close to the town, there is a fine mill erected by 
Mr. Choteau^ on this streamlet ; the dam forms a 
beautiful sheet of water, and affords much amuse- 
ment in fishing and fowling, to the people of the 
4;own. 

The common field of St. Louis was formerly en- 
closed on this bank, consisting of several thousand 
acres ; at present there are not more than two hun- 
dred under cidtivation ; the rest of the ground look{»} 
like the worn common, in the neighbourhood of a 
large town ; tlie grass kept down and sliort, and the 
loose soil in several places cut open into gaping ra- 
vines. 

St. Louis was first established in the spring of 
1764. It was principally settled by the inliabitants 
who abandoned the village of Fort Chartrcs, on the 
east side of the Mississippi. The colony flourished, 
^nd became the parent of a number of little villages 

T 2 



222 VIEWS OF LOUISIAICA. 

on the Mississippi and Missouri ; Carondelet, St. 
Charles^ Portage des Sioux, St. Johns, Bon Homme, 
St. Ferdinand, 6cc. 

From the abominable practice, of urging the 
northern Indians against the settlers, this place suf- 
fered an attack which still excites bitter recollec- 
tions. In 1779, a combination of the Indian tribes, 
prompted by the English, attempted a general inva^ 
sion of the French villages on both sides of the river, 
and accordingly descended in considerable force, 
but were checked by Gen. Clark, who commanded 
the American troops on the other side. An attack 
Avas, however, made upon a small settlement, com- 
menced within a few miles of the town, and the inha- 
bitants were nearly all butchered : others, who hap- 
pened to be out of St. Louis, were killed or pursued 
within a short distance of the town. It is said that 
upwards of eighty persons fell victims to their fury. 
Happily, this will be the last time that St. Louis will 
ever have anything to dread from the Indians; the 
fiM)ntier has extended so far north and west, that a 
complete barrier is formed against future incursions. 
They may come here in peace, and for the purpose 
of trade, but it will be far hence that they will dare 
to raise the tomahawk. 

St. Louis contains according to the last census 
one thousand four hundred inhabitants. One fifth 
Americans, and about four hundi-ed people of color. 
There are a few Indians and metiffs, in the capacity 
of servants, or wives to boatmen. This town was 
at no time so agricultural as the other villages ; 
being a place of some trade, the chief town of the 
province, and the residence of a number of me- 
i^hanics. It remained nearly stationary for two or 
three yc^*s after the cession 5 but is now beginning 



BCJ^OK It. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 223\ 

to take a start, and its reputation is growing abroad. 
Every house is crowded, rents are high, and it is ex- 
ceedingly difficult to procure a tenement on any 
terms. Six or seven houses were built in the course 
of last season, and probably twice the number will 
be built the next. There is a printing office, and 
twelve mercantile stores. The value of imports to 
this place in the course of the year, may be esti- 
mated at two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 
The outfits for the different trading establishments, 
on the Mississippi or Missouri, are made here. — 
The lead of the Sac mines is brought to this place ; 
the troops at Belle Fontaine put sixty thousand dol- 
lars in circulation annually. The settlers in the 
vicinity on both sides of the river, repair to this 
place as the best market for their produce, and 
to supply themselves with such articles as they may 
need. 

The price of marketing does not differ much from 
the towns of the western country ; every tiling ap- 
pears to be approximating to the same standard. 
Game of all kinds is brought in by the neighbour- 
ing Indians, or the poorer inhabitants, and sold for 
a more trifle ; such as venison, turkeys, geese, ducks, 
swans, prairie hens, &c. Upon the whole, provi- 
sions are no higher than in the towns of the Ohio. 

The manners of the inhabitants are not different 
from those in other villages ; we distinctly see the 
character of the ancient inhabitants, and of tlienew 
residents, and a compound of both. St. Louis, how- 
ever, was always a place of more refinement and 
fashion, it is the residence of many genteel families, 
both French and American. 

A few American mechanics, who have settled here, 
Wthin a short time, are great acquisitions to the 



224 TIEVVS 0P LOUISIANA. 

place; and there is still ample room for workmefi 
of all kinds. There is a French school and an 
JEnglish one. 

St. Louis, will probably become one of tliose 
great reservoir, of the valley between the Rocky 
mountains and tlie Allegheny, from whence mer- 
chandise will be distributed to an extensive country. 
It unites the advantages of the three noble rivers, 
Mississippi, Illinois and Missouri. When their 
banks shall become the residence of millions, when 
flourishing towns shall arise, can we suppose that 
every vender of merchandise, will look to New Or- 
leans for a supply, or to the Atlantic cities ? There 
must be a place of distribution, somewhere between 
the mouth of the Ohio and Missouri. Beside^s a 
trade to the northern parts of New Spain will be 
opened, and a direct communication to the East In- 
dies, by way of the Missouri, may be more than 
dreamt : in this case, St. Louis will become the Menu 
phis of the American Nile. 

St, Genevieve — Is next in consequence to St. Louis. 
It is at present the piincipal deposit of the lead, of 
Mine la Motte, the Mine a'Burton, New Diggings, 
the mines on Big river, with several others; and is 
the store, back from whence those engaged in working 
the mines are supplied witli a variety of articles. 
This town was begun about the year 1774. 

It is situated about one mile from the Mississippi, 
between the two branches of a stream called Gabou- 
rie, on a flat of about one hundred acres, and some- 
thing higher than tlie river bottom. There is a se- 
cond bank about twenty feet higher than tliis, upon 
Avhich the town begins at present to extend; this is 
nothing more than a bank, however, and bounded 
by a third bank; eighty feet above the leycl of th^ 



BOOK II. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 225 

river : there are also scattered houses for some dis- 
tance up each branch of the Gahourie. West of the 
town, and also north of the Gahourie, the country- 
is high and somewhat broken. The soil is a yellow 
clay; in places strewed witli horn stone, but pro- 
duces good wlicat. The timber, ha^been nearly all 
destroyed for the use of the inhabitants. In front 
of the town, on the Mississippi, there is a fine bottom, 
commencing from the Gabourie, and extending eight 
or nine miles down the river ; and for the greater 
part of that distance, three miles in width. The 
common field under fence, contains seven thousand 
acres. There are six stores, and in the course of the 
present year, the imports might amount to one hun- 
dred and fifty thousand dollars. St. Genevieve is a 
rising town ; a greater number of buildings have 
been erected here than at St. Louis, and prepara- 
tions are making for building a number more in thef 
course of the next season. There are two brick 
yards. A very handsome edifice has been erected 
of limestone, on the liill, commanding an elegantpros^ 
pect of the river, the American bottom, and of the 
hills on the other side of the Kaskaskia. This 
building is intended as an academy, but unfortu- 
nately, the gentlemen who undertook this work, have 
not been able fully to succeed, from the want of pror 
per support^ 

The population of St. Genevieve including New 
Bourbon, amounts to one thousand four hundred. 
There is about tlie same population of slaves, as at 
St. Louis ; the number of Americans is also about 
the same. There was formerly a village of Piorias 
below tlie town, but they abandoned it some time 
ago. 



226 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

This appears also to have been one of those spots 
pitched upon by former and numerous nations of In- 
dians as a place of residence. In- the bottom there 
are a number of large mounds. Barrows, and 
places of interment, are e\erj where to be seen. 

The mouth of the Gabourie is about one mile and 
an half above the town ; it is the landing place and 
harbor of boats, and when the water is high, they 
can come up to the town, of every size. 

In the neighbourhood, there are several remarka- 
ble fountains, which send foiiih copious streams of 
water. One about a mile distant, affords a consi' 
derable accession to the Gabourie, and turns a mill 
a short distance below. The fountain itself, is truly 
beautiful ; after wandering for some time over arid 
and dry hills, we come all at once into a thick grove 
of oak, hickory and other trees, and descending a 
declivity, we discover the fountain, fifteen or twenty 
feet square, and as many in depth, enclosed on all 
sides, except the one from whence the stream issues, 
by masses of living rock, and its glassy surface, 
shaded with young trees and shrubs. Various beau- 
tiful creeping vines, with their flowers, soften the se- 
verity of the frowning rock, and sport in festoons 
woven by the hand of nature. I recollect a trifling 
incident, which occurred in one of my visits to this 
fountain, but wliich made an impression on my mind. 
I found a party of about sixty Shawanese warriors 
encamped near it ; after some conversation with the 
chief, a good old man, and of a remarkably fine 
figure; «' why" said he, " does not some white man 
build a house and settle himself near this ])lace ?'^ 
but, continued the old chief, seemingly recollecting 
himself, <' perhaps some INIonitou (spirit) resides 
here, and will not permit it !'' How similar is the 



I 



BOOK II. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 

action of the human mind in all countries, and in ail 
ages. It seems to be a natural sentiment to attribute 
to whatever is extraordinary, the agency or control 
of some superior being. The ancient Greeks and 
Romans, in their highest stage of refinement, carried 
it so far, as to have divinities for every fountain and 
liver. 

St. Genevieve was formerly built immediately on 
the Mississippi, but the washing away of the bank, 
and the great ilood of 1782 (Vanne* des eauxj caus- 
ed the inhabitants to choose a higher situation. The 
ruins of the old town may be still seen, and there are 
several orchards of fine fruit yet remaining. 

The principal employment of the., inhabitants is 
agriculture ; but tlie greater part, are also more or 
less engaged in the lead mines. This is a career of 
industry open to all, and the young, in setting out to 
do something for themselves, usually make their 
first essay in this business. A number of the inha- 
bitants are also employed as boatmen, for the pur- 
pose of conducting voyages. There is some Indian 
trade, from the neigliboring Shawanese, Pioras, and 
Delawares. There are but few mechanics, and these 
but indifferent. A chapel is erected here, at which 
the Rev. Mr. Maxwell officiates. 

As the agriculture of St. Genevieve, is carried on 
more extensively than in any of the other villages, I 
shall take this opportunity of giving a description of 
it. One fence encloses the whole village field, and 
this is kept up at the common expense. The river 
side is left open, the steepness of the bank rendering 
any enclosure unnecessary. This field is divided 
into a number of small lots, of an equal size ; a cer- 
tain number of arpents in front, and a certain num- 
ber iw depth. The more wealthv possess and cultJ- 



^>S VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

vate sever^ of these lots, while some of the poorer 
class do not own one entire. But nearly all the in- 
habitants have a share in them,- they were ceded by 
the Spanish government, as an appendage to the 
possession of every resident in the village. This 
mode has been practised from the earliest settlements 
on both sides of the Mississippi, and perhaps had its 
origin from necessary precaution against the In- 
dians. Their agricultural labors commence in the 
month of April, when the inhabitants, with their 
slaves, are seen going and returning, each morning 
and evening, for eight or ten days, with their 
ploughs, carts, horses, &c. The ground is broken 
up with a kind of wheel plough, which enters deep 
into the soil. Corn, pumpkins, and spring wheat, 
compose the usual crop. It is now left entirely to na- 
ture, and no further attention is paid to it until har- 
vest, when each villager, but without that mirth and 
jollity, which usually takes place on such occasions, 
in other countries, quietly hauls in his own crop. 
There is a great contrast between the lots cultivated 
by the Americans, and those of the Creoles ; pains 
are taken to keep them clear of weeds, and this is 
rewarded by a crop of at least one third greater. In 
tlie rich alluvia, it is thought, that wheat sowed in 
the spring is best ; it does not grow so rank, and is 
less apt to lodge or mildew. There is a kind of 
weed here resembling hemp, having a coarse, vigo- 
rous stalk, and a strong but not disagreeable smell ; 
tliis, the inhabitants cut during summer, to feed 
their horses. It grows in the rich bottoms, and in 
great abundance through the commgn fields ; cattle 
are extremely fond of it. After the harvest is com- 
pleted, the barriers of the fields are opened, and all 
.the cattle of the village permitted to be turned in. 



BOOK II. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 829 

Horses put into the field before this period, (for each 
one has generally a part of his lot in grass) are tied 
to long ropes, which are fastened to stakes. 

Besides the lots, in the great field, the principal 
inhabitants, have of late years, opened plantations, 
within some miles of the town ; and tlie greater part 
of the stock formerly seen about this place, has been 
removed to the country farms : in consequence of 
which, the passengers are enabled to go througli the 
streets without danger of being jostled by horses, 
cows, hogs and oxen, which formerly crowded them. 

St, Charles — As well as the two places before de- 
scribed, is the seat of justice of the district bearing 
its name. It contains three hundred inhabitants, a 
considerable proportion of them Americans. There 
are two or three stores, which, besides supplying 
the country people of the neighbourhood, have some 
trade with Indian or white hunters, in furs and pel- 
tries. But this is in a great measure, the residence 
of that class of French inhabitants, whose occupa- 
tion is that of engageeSy or boatmen. Several genteel 
families also reside here. 

The village is situated on the north side of the 
Missouri, twenty miles from the junction. It is 
built on a very narrow space, between the river and 
the bluff, admitting but one street a mile in length. 
A short distance below, the bottom becomes wide ; 
the hills behind the village are extremely rough, and 
scarcely susceptible of tillage. The Missouri is 
yearly washing away the ground on which this place 
stands. The common field is situated two miles 
lower down. 

JS'exv Madrid — The seat of justice of the district, 
and formerly called, VAnse a'la gresse. It is situat- 
ed in 36 degrees 34 minutes north, longitude 89 de- 

V 



230 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

grees 20 minutes west. Though in a low state of 
improvemeiit at present, it ought Jo become impor- 
tant. It will be the store house of the produce of 
an extensive and fertile country ; and from the St. 
Francis and the lakes which lie south west, it may 
derive important advantages. New Madrid was 
laid out twenty -four years ago, by col. George Mor- 
gan, on an extensive scale, and an elegant plan. It 
was chosen as one of the best situations on the river. 
The town contains four hundred inhabitants, one 
third Americans, living in a scattered way, over a 
great space of ground. It is the residence of seve- 
ral amiable and genteel families, from whom, I ac- 
knowledge with pleasure, to have received much 
kindness and hospitality. There is, however, a due 
proportion of the wortliless and despicable part of 
society. 

At New Madrid, the Mississippi has the shape of 
a half moon, in the hollow of which, the town stands. 
The bank is high, but the washing away has been as- 
tonishingly great, at least tliree hundred yards have 
disappeared. Three forts, and a number of large 
and spacious streets have been carried away, within 
these fifteen years. From the course wliich the ri- 
ver has now assumed, it is probable that this will 
cease, and such is the character of this wonderful 
stream, that in a few years. New Madrid may be 
left far from its bank. 

At the upper end of the towni there is a considera- 
ble stream, of which I have already spoken, and 
might, at most seasons, be navigated to its source ; 
at New Madrid it is called the Bayou St. John, and 
affords an excellent harbour. Below the town there 
is a beautiful lake, six or eight feet deep, with a clear 
sandy bottom, and communicating with the St. 



BOOK II, TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 23l 

Francis, and the MissiSvsippi, in high water. On 
the hank of this lake, ahoiit four miles from Nc\r 
Madrid, there is one of the largest Indian mounds 
in the western country : as near as 1 could compute, 
it is twelve hundred feet in circumference, and about 
foi'ty in height, level on the toj), and surrounded 
with a ditch five feet deep and ten wide. In this 
neighborhood there are traces of a great population. 

The country in the vicinity of New Madrid, is a 
vast plain of the richest soil, handsomely diversified 
with prairie and wood land. There is not much bu- 
siness done at this place ,• two or three mercantile 
stores are established, but not extensively; yet I 
should think this, a situation extremely eligible for 
a person of enteq)rise. 

New Madrid is considered healthy, and from my 
own experience, I am convinced of the justice of this 
character. There is nothing more delightful than a 
promenade in a summer evening, on the smooth 
green along the hank. The climate is mild and 
agreeable ; in the hottest days of summer, a cool and 
refreshing breeze is felt from the river. The spring 
is comparatively early, I gathered strawberries 
here the twentieth of April, and at St. Louis in June, 
New Madrid deserves to be noted for having a num- 
ber of remarkably fine gardens, the inhabitants pay- 
ing great attention to this culture. 

Arkansas, — This place is situated sixty miles up 
the river, and contains four hundred and fifty inha- 
bitants ; it has a few stores, and seems to be improv- 
ing. There is a considerable trade with the Osages 
up the Arkansas, and with the Indians, who live in 
the White river country. This is also a French es- 
tablishment, and with about the same proportion of 
Americans as in the other towns. 



23^ VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Cape Girardeau — The seat of justice for the dis- 
trict of that name, and situated thirty-five miles 
above the mouth of the Ohio. This town is ehtirely 
American, and built in their fasliion. It is tiiri\ ing 
fast : there are a number of good houses, several of 
them of brick. It contains about thirty dwellings, 
and three hundred inhabitants. 

The town is situated on a high bluff, but the do- 
scent to the river is not difficult. From its situation, 
and the excellence of the surrounding country, this 
town bids fair to become a flourishing place. Two 
stores are established here, though on a small scale. 
I have the pleasure of being acquainted with several 
amiable families. 

Herctdaneum — On the Mississippi, half way be- 
tween St. Louis and St. Genevieve. 

The situation of tins place is extremely romantic ; 
at the mouth of the Joachin, and on a flat of no great 
width, between the river hill and second bank, wliilc 
at each end, perpendicular precipices, two hundred 
feet high, rise almost from the water's edge. It ap- 
pears to be an opening for the admission of the Joa- 
chin to the Mississippi. On the top of each of these 
cliffs, shot towers have been established. The town 
contains twenty houses, and two hundred inhabi- 
tants ; here is a store, an excellent blacksmith, and 
a hatter. The country behind the town is hilly, but 
well timbered, and good land. Several fine mills 
have been erected in the neighbourhood of this place, 
and boat building is carried on. 

Carondelet, or Vuidepoche, is situated six miles 
below St. Louis — two hundred and eighteen inhabi- 
tants. Florissant, on the Missouri, two hundred 
and seventy. Mine La Mote, two hundred and 



BOOK n. TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 233 

fifty, and a number of other small villages. A vil- 
lage has lately been commenced at the mouth of the 
St. Francis. 



1^3 



CHAP. VL 

Character of the ancient inhabitants — change of go- 
vemment. 

There is scarcely any thing more difficult, and 
consequently more rare, than correct delineation of 
character: — This task is usually undertaken by 
friends or enemies, and the result is either panegy- 
rick or satire. — Even amongst sucli as are unbiassed, 
how few the happy copyists, who can paint nature 
with her own colours, so as to be recognized by every 
beholder ! 

Conscious of this difficulty, I entertain humble 
hopes of success in being able to satisfy the expec- 
tation and inquiries of the intelligent reader. And^ 
particularfy where there are no striking and promi- 
nent features, but the traits of an infant colony deli- 
cately marked, 

A colony will not remain long separated from the 
parent stock, until it exhibits a peculiar and distinct 
character. Climate, situation, and country, although 
/jot exclusively the agents in forming this character, 
must nevertheless, be admitted to have great influ- 
ence. Nor do the manners of the parent country 
continue invariable ; other times, other men, other 
circumstances, produce the most surprising changes,, 
while the colony, beyond the sphere of their influ» 
ence, retains its pristine customs and maimers. The 



BOOK n. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, kc. ^^S 

Spaniards of Mexico, are said to bear a stronger re^ 
semblance to their ancestors of the fifteenth century, 
than to their present brethren of Old Spain : — The 
French inhabitants of the Mississippi, have little 
resemblance to the gay, and perhaps frivolous, 
Frenchmen of Louis the fifteenth and sixteenth, and 
still less to those who have felt the racking storm of 
ihe revolution. 

The present inhabitants are chiefly descendents of 
the settlers who were induced to remove hither from 
Canada. In consequenct of the misfoii;unes of 
France, the settlements of the Illinois experienced a 
sudden and rapid decay ; which was again accel- 
erated by the conquest of General Clark for the 
United States, in 1779. The greater number of 
the wealthy and respectable inhabitants descended 
I the Mississippi, and settled in New Orleans, 
and the lower country. Others crossed the Mis- 
sissippi, and established St. Louis and St. Genevieve 
Scarcely any but natives of the country remained. 
The foreigners chiefly returned to the countrieB 
from whence they first emigi-ated. 

Such is the origin of the greater part of that class 
of the population of this territory, which I have de- 
nominated the ancient inhabitants. They are 
chiefly natives of the country ; but few families are 
immediately from France, or even from New Or- 
leans or Canada. 

In tlie character of these people, it must be remem- 
bered, tliat they are essentially Frenchmen ; but, 
without that restlessness, impatience and fire, which 
distinguishes the European. There is, even in their 
deportment, sometliing of the gravity of the Spa- 
niard, thougli gay, and fond of amusements. From 
the gcutle aiid easy life wliich they led, their manners^ 



236 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

and eVen language, have assumed a certain degree 
of softness and mildness: the word paisible, ex- 
presses this characteristic. In this remote country, 
there were few objects to urge to enterprise, and 
few occasions to call forth and exercise their ener- 
gies. The necessaries of life were easily procured, 
and beggary was unknown. Hospitality was exer- 
cised as in the first ages. Ambition soared far 
hence, for here there was no prey. Judges, codes of 
law, and prisons, were of little use, where such sim- 
plicity of manners prevailed, and where every one 
knew how far to confide in his neighbour. In such 
a state of things, to what end is learning or science ? 
The schools afforded but slender instruction ; the 
better sort of people acquired in them reading, 
writing, and little arithmetic. The number of those 
who were lovers of knowledge, and make it a pro- 
fession, was small. From the habits of these peo- 
ple, it would naturally be expected, that they would 
have been unaccustomed to reason on political sub- 
jects ; they were in fact, as ignorant of them, as 
children are of life and manners. These inhabi- 
tants were as remarkable for their tame and peace- 
able disposition, as the natives of France are for 
the reverse. 

Amongst their virtues, we may enumerate ho- 
nesty and punctuality in their dealings, hospitality 
to strangers, friendship and affection amongst rela- 
tives and neighbours. Instances of abandonment on 
the female side, or of seduction, are extremely rare* 
The women make faithful and affectionate wives, 
but will not be considered secondary in the matri- 
monial association. The advice of the wife is taken 
on all important, as well as on less weighty concerns, 
and she generally decides* In opposition to tliese 



BOOK II. A XCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. 237 

virtues, it must be said, tliat they are devoid of pub- 
lic spirit, of enterprise, display but little ingenuity or 
taste, and are indolent and uninformed. 

They are catholics, but, very far from being 
bigoted or superstitious. They were perhaps more 
strict observers, formerly, of the rules and discip- 
line of their church, and of the different holy days 
in the calendar. Their fetes, or celebration of these 
days, were considered, as the most interesting occa- 
sions ; the old and young engaged in them with the 
greatest delight, and certainly contributed to their 
happiness. Of late, this attention to the ceremonies 
of their religion is considerably relaxed, since other 
objects of pursuit and interest have been opened to 
their view. The catholic worship is the only one 
yet known in the territory, except in private fami- 
lies, and in a few instances of itinerant preachers. 

There was scarcely any distinction of classes in 
the society. The wealthy and more intelligent, 
would of course be considered as more important 
personages, but there was no difference clearly 
marked. They all associated, dressed alike, and 
frequented the small ball room. They were in fact 
nearly all connected by the ties of affinity or consan- 
guinity : so extensive is this that I have seen the 
carnival, from the death of a common relation, pass 
by cheerless and unheeded. The number of per- 
sons excluded was exceedingly small. What an in- 
iducement to compoi-t ones self with propriety and 
I circumspection ! The same interest at stake, the 
same sentiments that in other countries influence the 
first classes of society, were here felt by all its mem- 
bers. Perhaps as many from unmerited ])raise have 
been formed into valuable characters, as others from 



238 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

having been unjustly despised have become truly 
despicable. 

Their wealth consisted principally in personal 
property, lands were only valuable when improved. 
Slaves were regai'ded m the light of bienfoncieVf or 
real property, and in fact, as the highest species. 
Lead and peltry were frequently used as the circu- 
lating medium. 

There was but little variety in their employments. 
The most enterprising and wealthy were traders, 
and had at the same time trifling assortments of 
merchandise for the accommodation of the inhabi- 
tants, but there were no open shops or stores, as in 
the United States. There were no tailors or shoe- 
makers ; such as pursue these occupations at pre- 
sent, are from the United States. The few mechan 
ics, exercising their trades, principally carpenters 
and smiths, scarcely desei^ ed the name. The lead 
mines, I have already observed, engaged a consi- 
derable number. The government gave employ- 
ment to but few, and those principally at St. Louis. 
By far the greater proportion of the population was 
engaged in agriculture ,• in fact, it was the business 
of all, since the surplus of produce of tlie country 
was too inconsiderable to be depended upon. A 
number of the young men for some time, embraced 
the employment of boatmen, which was by no means 
considered degrading ; on the contrai-y, it was de- 
sirable for a young man to have it to say, that he 
had made a voyage in this capacity : and they ap- 
peared proud of the occupation, in which they cer- 
tainly are not sui'passed by any people in dexterity. 
It is highly pleasing to see them exerting them- 
selves, and giving encouragement to each other, by 
their cheering songs — 



BOOK n. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, Sec. 239 

— adductis spumant freta versa lacertis. 
Infiiuhint pariter sulcos ; totumquc deliiscet 
Convulsum remis, rostrisque trideutibus zcquor. 

But this occupution, amongst many other changes, 
has been reduced to the same footing as witli tiie 
Americans. Arising probably from tlie simple 
cause, of there having arisen objects of more gene- 
rous emulation. 

What is somewhat vStrange, there were no domes- 
tic manufactures among them ; the spinning wheel 
and the loom were alike unknown. So deiicient were 
they in tliis respect, that although possessed of nume- 
rous herds, tliey were not even acquainted with the 
use of the churn, but made their butter by beating 
the cream in a bowl, or sliaking it in a bottle. 

Their amusements, were cards, billiards, and dan- 
ces ; this last of course the favourite. The dances, 
were cotillions, reels, and sometimes the minuet. 
During the carnival, the balls follow in rapid suc- 
cession. They have a variety of pleasing customs, 
connected with this amusement. Children have also 
their balls, and are taught a decorum and propr'iety 
of behaviour, which is preserved through life. They 
have a cei-tain ease and freedom of address, and ai^e 
taught the secret of real politeness, self denial; but 
which by the apes of French manners, is mistaken 
for an affected grimace of complaisant regard, and 
a profusion of bows, scrapes and professions. 

Their language, every thing considered, is more 
pure than might be expected ; their manner of length- 
ening the sound of words, although languid, and 
without the aiumation which the French generally 
possess, is by no means disagreeable. They have 
some new words, and others arc in use, which in 
F'rance have become obsolete. 



^0 VIEWS OF LOmSlANA. 

In their persons, they are well formed, of an agree- 
able pleasant countenance ; indicating cheerfulness 
and serenity. Their dress was formerly extremely 
simple; tlie men wore a blanket coat, of coarse cloth 
or coating, with a cape behind, which could be drawn 
over the head ,- from which circumstance it was call* 
ed a capote. Both sexes wore blue handkerchiefs 
on their heads : but no hats, or shoes, or stockings; 
mockasins, or the Indian sandals, were also used. 
The dress of the females was generally simple, and 
the variations of fashion, few: though they were 
dressed in a much better taste than the other sex. 
These manners will soon cease to exist, but in re- 
membrance and description : every thing has chang- 
ed. Tlie American costume is generally introduc- 
ed into the best families, and among the young 
girls and young men universally. I never saw any 
where greater elegance of dress than at the balls of 
^t. Louis. We still see a few of both sexes in their 
ancient habiliments; capots, mockasins, blue hand- 
kerchiefs on tlieir heads, a pipe in the mouth, and 
the hair tied up in a long queue. These people ex- 
hibit a striking difference when compared with the 
uiiconr|uerahle pertinacity of the Pennsylvania Ger- 
mans, who adhere so rigidly to the customs, man- 
ners and language of their fathers, A few years 
have effected a greater change witl) the inhabitants of 
tliis territory than has been brought about amongst 
the Germans in fifty years. 

The government of the province, was a mixture 
of the civil and military. Each district liad its 
commandant, or syndic, who was the judge in civil 
matters undei* a ( ertain amount, and had also com- 
mand of the militia. They received their appoint- 
ment from the Intendant at New Oilcans, to whom 



BOOK II. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. 241 

there was an appeal from their decisions, and where 
were also referred such matters as exceeded their ju- 
risdiction. Arbitrations under the direction of tlie 
commandant, in some degree obA iated his want of 
authority. The mode of proceedin,^, in the recovery 
of debts, was very summary and exjieditious, the 
party complaining obtained a notification from the 
commandant to his adversary of tbe complaint, ac» 
companied by a command from the commandant, to 
render the complainant justice. If this had no ef- 
fect, he was notified to appear before the comman- 
dant on a particular day, and answer the complaint-; 
and if this last notice was neglected, a sergeant, Avith 
a file of men, was sent to bring him ; if he had no- 
thing to urge in his defence, he was instantly con- 
demned to discharge the debt or go to prison. 

The lieut. governor, who resided at St. Louis, 
was the commander of the militia, and had a general 
superintendance of the public works and property, 
but I do not know the exact extent of his powers. 
The laws of Spain were in force here : but it does 
not appear that any others had been in practice, be- 
sides those, which related to lands and the municipal 
arrangements. Laws regulating civil contrasts, are 
so intimately interwoven with the manners of a peo- 
ple, that it is no easy task to separate them : here la 
coutume de Paris^ the common law of the French co- 
lonies, was the system by whicli their contracts 
were governed. The judges, in administering jus- 
tice, according to the American jurisprudence, are 
often perplexed by the ai-ticle of session, which pro- 
vides, that respect should be paid to the usages and 
customs of the country. A few trooi)S were kept up 
in each district, throughout the province, but too in- 
considerable to afford much protection to the inhabi- 

X 



242 TIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

tants. This country being so remote from the main 
possessions of Spain, was not regarded with much 
attention, when we consider its natural importance. 
The rod of government was so light as scarcely to 
he felt ; the worst of the governors, were content, 
with imposing on their king, by exhorbitant charges 
for useless fortifications, or for supplies never fur- 
nished. I have heard of some oppressions practised 
on strangers, but I have been informed by a number 
of Americans settled here before the change, that the 
Spanish government treated them with particular at- 
tention and respect. I believe, instances of indivi- 
dual oppressions on the part of the governors, were 
few : but this is to be attributed, not to the govern- 
ment, but to the state of society. 

The present government appears to be operating 
a general change : its silent but subtle spirit is felt 
in eveiy nerve and vein, of the body politic. The 
United States, acting upon broad pjinciples, cannot 
be influenced by contemptible partialities between 
their own sons and their adopted children. They 
do not want colonies — they will disdain to hold others 
in the same state, whicli they themselves so nobly 
despised. They are in fact, both natives of the same 
land, and both can claim Freedom as tlieir birth- 
right. 

It requires many hands to work the complicated 
macliinery of our government ; the object of which, 
is to enable men, as much as possible, to govern 
themselves. Each of the principal towns has its of- 
ficers, its legislature, in which the ancient inhabi- 
tants have the principal voice. They have been 
placed on the bench, they are jurors and magistrates^ 
commissions are distributed, which, although not re- 1 
garded of much importance in time of peace, yet] 



BOOK IL ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. 243 

make a man feel that he counts something in liis 
countiy ; for instance, in the militia, tliere are gene- 
rals, colonels, majors, captains, ^c. Thus, one 
might suppose that their manners and hahits of 
thinking were gradually preparing for the reception 
of a free govei'nment. The Americans have com- 
municated to them, their industry and spirit of en- 
terprize, and they in turn, have given some of their 
more gentle and amiahle customs. Upon the wliole, 
the American maimers, and even language, hegin to 
predominate. Tiie young men have already heen 
formed by our government, and those growing up 
will have known no other. A singular ciiange has 
taken place, which, one would think, ought not to 
be the result of a ti'ansition from a despotism to a re- 
publican government: luxury has increased in a 
wonderful degree, and there exists something like a 
distinction in the classes of society. On the other 
hand, more pains are taken with the education of 
youth ; some have sent their sons to the seminaries 
of the United States, and all seem anxious to attain 
this desirable end. Several of the young men hare 
entered the army of the United States, and have dis- 
covered talents. Tlie females are also instructed 
with more care, and the sound of the piano is now 
heard in their dwellings for the first time. 

Personal property, a few Jirticles excepted, has 
fallen on an average, two hundred per cent, in value, 
and real property risen at least five hundred. But 
the prices of merchandize had no proportion to the 
price of produce. Five bushels of corn were for- 
merly necessary for the jiurchase of a handkeiThief, 
which can now be had for one. The cultivators 
raised little produce beyond what was necessary for 
tiieir ow^n subsistence, it was therefore held at high 



244 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. , 

prices, but fell far short of the present proportion to 
the price of imported articles ; the petty trade was 
the principal dependence for tliese supplies. Their 
agriculture was so limited, that instances have been 
known, of their having been supplied by the king, 
on the failure of their crops from the inundation of 
the Mississippi. The low value of lands naturally 
arose from the great quantities lying waste, and un- 
occupied, in proportion to the extent of tlie popula- 
tion, or of its probable increase, and the consequent 
facility with which it could be obtained. Rent was 
scarcely known. 

It may be questioned, whether the poorest class 
has been benefitted by the change. Fearless of ab- 
solute want, they always lived in a careless and 
thoughtless manner : at present the greater part of 
them obtain a precarious subsistence. They gene- 
rally possess a cart, a horse or two, a small stock of 
cattle, and cultivate some spots of ground. At St. 
Louis they have more employment than in the other 
villages; they make hay in the prairies, haul wood for 
sale, and are employed to do trifling jobs in town ; 
some are boatmen or patrons. At St. Genevieve, 
they depend more upon their agriculture, and have^ 
portions in the great field, but this will probably soon 
be taken from them by the great industry of the 
American cultivators, who are continually purchas-^ 
ing, and who can give double the sum for rent ; they 
are sometimes employed in hauling lead from the 
mines, but it will not be sufficient for their support. 
A number have removed to the country, and, in imi- 
tation of the Americans, have settled down on pub- 
lic lands, but here they cannot expect to remain long. 
Those who live in the more remote villages, are less 
affected by the change, but there is little prospect of 



BOOK II. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. ^45 

their being better situated. But few of them have 
obtained permission from tlie commandant, to settle 
on lands ; in fact, until \evy lately there was no 
safety from the depredations of the Indians, in form- 
ing establisliments beyond the villages. Land was 
only valued for what it could produce, and any one 
could obtain as much as he chose to cultivate. 

Until possession was taken of the country by us, 
there was no safety from the robberies of the Osage 
Indians. That impolitic lenity, which the Spanish 
and even the French government have manifested 
towards them, instead of a firm though just course, 
gave rise to the most insolent deportment on their 
part. I have been informed by the people of St. Ge- 
nevieve, who suffered infinitely the most, that they 
were on one occasion left without a horse to turn a 
mill. The Osages were never followed to any great 
distance oi* overtaken ; this impunity necessarily en- 
couraged them. They generally entered the neigh- 
bourhood of the villages, divided into small parties, 
and during the night, stole in and carried away every 
thing they could find, frequently breaking open sta- 
bles, and taking out the horses. After uniting at a 
small distance, their place of rendezvous, they 
marched leisurely home, driving the stolen horses 
before them, and without the least dread of being 
pursued. They have not dared to act in this manner 
under the present government; there have been a 
few solitary instances of robberies by them, within 
these three or four years, but they are sufticiently ac- 
quainted with the Americans to know, that they will 
be instantly pursued, even into their villages and 
compelled to surrender. The following well attest- 
ed fact, will serve to show the insolence of the Osa- 
ges under the former government. A youug couple 
X2 



246 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

on tlieir way from the settlement, just then formed 
on Big river, to St. Genevieve, accompanied by a 
number of their friends, with the intention of having 
the matrimonial knot tied by the priest, were met by 
sixty Osages, robbed of their horses, and the whole 
party actually stripped ! What serves, however, to 
lessen the atrocity of these outrages, it has been re- 
marked, that they are never known to take away the 
lives of those who fall into their hands. The inso- 
lence of the other nations who came openly to their 
villages, the Pioras, Loups, Kickapoos, Chickasas, 
Cherokees, &c. is inconceivable. They were some- 
times perfectly masters of the villages, and excited 
general consternation. I have seen the houses on 
some occasions closed up, and the doors barred by 
the terrified inhabitants ; they were not always safe 
even there. It is strange how these people have en- 
tirely disappeared within a few years, there are at 
present scarcely a sufficient number to supply the 
villages with game. 

On the part of the United States, possession was 
taken of this territory in 1804, by capt. (now maj.) 
Stoddard, who was the first civil commandant. In 
pursuance of the act of Congress, wliich separated 
it from the disti'ict of Orleans, with the name of the 
district of Louisiana, it was placed for the moment, 
under the government of the territory of Indiana. 
Governor Harrison, of that territory, accordingly, 
organized the government, and put it in motion. In 
1805, it was erected into a territorial government, 
similar to that of the other territories, by the name 
of the Territory of Louisiana,'^ For these things I 

* The territory of Orleans has now become the " state of Loii-^ 
isiana," and the " territory of Louisiana" has been changed ta 
the "territory of the Missouri." 



BOOKH. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, S;c. 24:7 

must refer the reader to the different acts of Con- 
gress on the suhject. Two important treaties were 
formed with the Indians, one with the Sacs and Fox- 
es, and the other v/ith tlie Great and Little sages. 
If I am asked, whether the ancient inhabitants 
are more contented, or happy, under the new order 
of things, or have reason to be so, I should consider 
the question a difficidt one, and answer it with hesi- 
tation. It is not easy to know the secret sentiments 
of men, and happiness is a relative term. It is true, 
I have heard murmurings against the present govern- 
ment, and something like sorrowing after that of 
Spain, which I rather attributed to momentary cha- 
grin, than to real and sincere sentiment : besides, 
this generally proceeds from those who were wont to 
bask in the sunshine of favour. Yet I have not ob- 
served those signs which unequivocally mark a suf- 
fering and unhappy people. The principal source 
of uneasiness arises from the difficulties of settling 
the land claims by the commissioners on the part of 
the United States. The principal inhabitants have 
lost much of that influence which they formerly pos- 
sessed, and are superseded in trade and in lucrative 
occupations by strangers ; their land claims, there- 
fore, constitute their chief dependence. The subject of 
those claims embraces such a variety of topics, that 
it is not possible to give any coiTect idea of them in 
this cursory view. It is a subject on which the 
claimants are feelingly alive. This anxiety is a 
tacit compliment to our government, for under the 
former, their claims would be scarcely worth atten- 
tion. The general complaint is, the want of suffi- 
cient liberality in determining on them. There is 
perhaps too great a disposition to lean against the 
larger concessions, some of which are unreasonably 



248 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

great, but when we consider the trifling value of 
lands under the Spanish government, there will ap- 
pear less justice in this prepossession against them. 
For many reasons, it woidd not be to the honor, of 
the United States, that too much strictness should 
be required in the proof, or formalities of title, par- 
ticularly of a people who came into their power with- 
out any participation on their part, and without hav- 
ing been consulted. Six years have passed away 
without the final adjustment of the claims, and even 
those that have been decided upon, will give rise to 
lawsuits ; it is probable there will be as copious a 
harvest of these as ever was furnished by any of the 
states. 

The lower class have never been in tlie habit of 
thinking beyond what immediately concern them- 
selves ; they cannot therefore, be expected to fore- 
see political consequences. They were formerly un- 
der a kind of dependence, or rather vassalage, to the 
great men of villages, to whom they looked up for 
their suppoi^; and protection. Had they been more 
accustomed to think it possible, that by industry it 
was in their power to become rich, and independent 
also, the change would have been instantly felt in 
their prosperity. But they possess a certain indif- 
ference and apathy, which cannot be changed till the 
present generation shall pass away. They are of 
late observed to become fond of intoxicating liquors. 
There is a middle class, whose claims or possessions 
were not extensive, but sure, and from the increased 
value of their property, have obtained since the 
change of government, a handsome couipetence. 
They, upon the whole, are well satisfied ,• I have 
heard many of thorn express their approbation of 
the American government, in the warmest tcrms^ 



BOOK n. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. 249 

They feel and speak like freemen, and are not slow 
in declaring, that formerly the field of enterprize 
was occupied hy tlie mono])olies of a few, and it is 
now o})en to every industrious citizen. 

There are some things in the administration of 
justice, which they do not yet perfectly comprehend ; 
the trial by jury, and the multifarious forms of our 
jurisprudence. They had not been accustomed to 
distinguish between the slow and cautions advances 
of even handed Justice^ and tlie despatch of arbitrary 
power.^ In their simple state of society, when tlie 
subjects of litigation were not of great value, the ad- 
ministration of justice might be speedy and simple; 
but they ouglit to be aware, that when a society be- 
comes extensive, and its occupations, relations and 
interests, more numerous, people less acquainted 
with each other, the laws must be more complex. 
The trial by jury, is foreign to the customs and 
manners of their ancestors ; it is therefore not to be 
expected that they should at once comprehend its 
utility and importance. 

The chief advantages which accrued from the 
change of government, may be summed up in a few 
words. The inhabitants derived a security from 
the Indians ; a more extensive field, and a greater 
reward was oflered to industry and enterprize ; spe- 
cie became more abundant, and merchandise cheaper. 
Landed property was greatly enhanced in value. In 
opposition, it may be said, that formerly they were 
more content and had less anxiety; there was more cor- 
diality and friendship, living in the utmost liarmony, 
witli scarcely any clasliing interests. This perhaps, 

* Some of the more important lawsuits, however, where more 
extensive bribery could be carried on, are known to have slept fo« 
fifteen years. / 



250 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

is not unlike the notions of old people, who believe 
that in their early days every thing was more hap- 
pily ordered. 

The idea of their becoming extinct, by dissolving 
before a peojitle of a different race, and of losing their 
moeurs cheries, might excite unlmppy sensations. 
Already the principal villages look like the towns of 
the Americans. Are not the customs and manners 
of our fathers, and of our own youth, dear to us all ? 
Would it not fill our hearts with bitterness, to see 
them vanish as a dream ? Sentiments like these, 
doubtless sometimes steal into their heai-ts. They 
awake, and tlieir home has disappeared. 

But it is not likely that this state of society could 
have been of long continuance? The policy which 
had been commenced of encouraging American set- 
tlers, would by this time have oa erwhelmed them 
with a torrent of emigration. Isolated as they were, 
they could not have withstood this accumulating 
wave of population. Had they been transferred to 
France, tliey would have suffered from exactions 
and conscriptions ; had they remained attached to 
Spain, what nriseries might not have assailed them 
from the convulsed state of the Spanish monarchy. 
And is it nothing to exchange the name of colonists, 
Creoles for that of Americans, for that of citizens 
of an indepeu dent state, where they can aspire to the 
highest employments and honors ! There are enough 
who can feel what it is to be exalted to the dignity 
of freemen ; to the base and ignoble mind which 
cannot appreciate this blessing, my writings are not 
addressed. Louisianians, you have now become 
truly Americans ; never will you again be transfer- 
red from one nation to another; if you are e>ee 

SOLD AGAIN IT WILL BE FOR BLOOD. 



BOOK n. ANCIENT INHABITANTS, &c. 251 

At the same time, let us allow, for those emotions 
which must naturally be felt. Like two streams 
that flow to each other from remote and distant 
climes, although at length, included in the same 
channel, it is nut all at once that they will unite their 
contributai'y waters, and mingU into one. 



CHAP. VII. 

Climate — Productions^ <^c„ 

What is generally remarked respecting the cli- 
mate of the United States, is particularly applicable 
to this territory ; to wit, variableness. In the spring 
and winter, during the continuance of south west 
winds, it is agreeably warm; but by the change of 
the wind to noi'tli m est, the most sudden alteration 
of weather is produced. The winters of St. Louis 
are usually more mild than in the same latitudes 
east of tlie Alleghany mountains, but there are fre- 
quently several days in succession of weather as cold 
as in Canada. Last January (1811) after several 
weeks of delightful weather, when the warmth was 
even disagreeable, the thermometer standing at 78 
degrees, a change took place, and so sudden, that in 
four days it fell to 10 degrees below 0. This win- 
ter was also remarkable for a circumstance, which 
the oldest inliabitants do not recollect to have ever 
witnessed; the Mississippi closed over twice, whereas 
it most usually remains open during winter. 

The settlements of this territory, have in some 
measure obtained the character of being unhealthy. 
There is no doubt, but that as in other parts of the 
western country, which have not been properly put 
under cultivation, autumnal fevers will prevail. 
The vicinity of the lowland lakes has not been thought 



SOOK n. CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, &c. 253 

more unhealthy tlian at a distance : convenience ge- 
nerally induces the settler to choose this situation. 
It is a prevailing notion, that to he sick the first 
summer, is what every settler must expect. This 
is not generally true. In some parts of the territory, 
the district of New Madrid, and immediately on the 
Mississippi, this seasofiing is severely paid : hut in 
other parts of tlie territory, I can say with confi- 
dence, that no part of the United States is more fi'ee 
from diseases of every kind. From the first of Au- 
gust to the last of Septemher, is considered the most 
unhealthy. Much depends upon the care which the 
settler takes in avoiding whatever may tend to pro- 
duce sickness. The scorching heat of the sun is uni- 
versally agreed to he unfavorable to health. Night 
dews and exhalations are not less so. The food of 
most of the settlers, is not the most wholesome ; fat 
pork, seldom any fresh meat, or vegetables, coarse 
bread of the Indian corn, the constant use of milk as 
a part of this ill assorted fare, the whole crowned 
with drams of abominable whiskey. The exhala- 
tions from decaying a egetables, and from enormous 
masses of putrifying trees, in the new clearings, also 
contribute to this insalubrity. The fields of Indian 
corn, with which tlie settler surrounds his cabin, are 
thought by many, to be another cause : the foilage of 
the corn is so rich and massy, that it shades the 
earth, and prevents the sun from exhaling unwhole- 
some damps. 

The last season (1811) was very unhealthy 
throughout the western country, and this territory 
experienced fevers in a degree not less than many 
other pi aces. The natives, and the oldest inhabitants, 
were attacked as well as strangers. The Missouri, 
which had never experienced them, did not escape. 

Y 



254 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

This season did great injury to the commencing 
emigration to this country; many who had suffered, 
retired from it, and others who had determined to 
come, changed their minds. 

Nature has heen more bountiful to this territory, 
than perhaps to any part of the western country. It 
possesses all the advantages of the states of Ohio, 
Kentucky and Tennessee, with many which they 
have not. Proximity to the great mart of tlie west, 
will enable the produce of this territory to he the first 
in arriving, and consequently to bring the highest 
prices. 

The agriculture of this territory will be very si- 
milar to that of Kentucky, except, that soutli of the 
S5th degree of latitude, cotton may be grown to ad- 
vantage, and nearly as high as the Missouri, for 
home consumption. The soil, or climate, of no part 
of the United States is better adapted to the growth 
of wheat, rye, barley, and every species of grain. 
Rice and indigo may be cultivated in many parts of 
it : and no part of the western country surpasses it 
for the culture of tobacco, hemp and flax. Except 
the fig, orange, and a few other fruits, every spe- 
cies common to the United States is cultivated to ad- 
vantage. Tlicre are no where fmer apples, peaches, 
pears, cherries, plums, quinces, grapes, melons, &c. 

The manufactures which miglitbe established are 
various and important. The immense quantity and 
cheapness of lead, naturally point out this country 
as the proper one for tlie different manufactures of 
that mineral : sheet lead, shot, red and white lead, 
^c. The abundance of iron ore on the Maramek, 
St. Francis and Osage rivers, will at no distant pe- 
riod, encourage the establishment of furnaces and 
forges. The different manufactures of hemp, requi- 



BOOK II. CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, &c. 255 

site for the lower country, may be here carried on 
to advantage. There is a great abundance of the 
finest timber for boat or sliip building ; in this res- 
pect, the situation of the territory has decided ad- 
vantages over the western country. 

Tlie staple articles of trade, are at present, lead, 
peltry, cotton, tobacco and live stock. It will not be 
long before tliere will be added to these the manufac- 
tures of lead, hemp and cotton, besides the raw ma- 
terials themselves ; also iron, salt petie and coal, 
wheat, flour, a])ples, cider, whiskey, pickled pork, 
and a great variety of other articles. 



CHAP. VIIL 

Lead Miies in the district of St. Genevieve — mode of 
working them — their 'produce. 

The different mines, or diggings as they are call- 
ed, are scattered over the greater part of this dis- 
trict. The exact extent of the mineral veins to the 
West and South, or tov^^ards the Mississippi, is not 
yet ascertained ; but I have been informed, that lead 
ore is occasionally met with in the territory of Illi- 
nois. On the Osage river, and in the country wa- 
tered by the White river and its tributaries, I have 
been told by huntei'S, that lead ore is found in sur- 
prising quantities on the very surface of the ground. 

These mines have been known almost from the 
first settlement of the colony; for the discovery 
would be made as soon as the country could be tra- 
versed ; the ore being visible in the ravines washed 
by rains, and in the beds of rivulets. But the first 
person to examine these mines with skill and care, 
was a French mineralogist by the name of Renaud, 
the treasurer of the famous Mississippi company. 
The supposed wealth in precious minerals of this 
part of Louisiana, was one of the principal founda- 
tions of the company's credit. Renaud, a banker of 
Paris, who had turned his attention to the study of 
mineralogy, was engaged by the com])aiiy to under- 
take the searching and working of the Louisiana 



BOOK n. LEAD MINES, &c. 

mines, and was furnislied witli a number of miners 
and a considerable body of troops for tbc pui^)ose.=* 
The number and extent of his diejgings attest the as- 
siduity of his researches; the different lead mines at 
present worked, with few exceptions, follow up the 
old diggings. He discovered copper mines towards 
the head of the Mississippi, and on the Illinois river ; 
but despairing of meeting with the precious metals, 
he confined his labors to the lead mines, and it is 
said that considerable quantities of lead were smelt- 
ed by him. The Louisiana company, in considera- 
tion of his services, and the expenses which he had 
incurred, as well as to furnish him tlic means of sup- 
porting the men under his command, granted him 
several large tracts of land in fee simple.f After 
being engaged for twelve or fifteen years in this bii» 
slness, Renaud returned to France, and died either 
on his passage or shortly after his arrival. 

After the departure of Renaud, and the total fai- 
lure of ihe company, it does not appear that the lead 
mines were mucli attended to for many years, nor 
ever after the crossing of the French settlements to 
the western side of tlie Mississippi, and the estab- 
lishment of St. Genevieve. Since the change of go- 
vernment, the produce of the mines was increased at. 
least ten fold, and the value of the metal a third. 

* See Abbe Raynal. 

f The grant of the king to the company of the west, was much 
more extensive than the one to Crozat. A condition was attached 
to the grants made by the latter to individuals, particularly of 
mines; but the former, by the 8th article of the letters patent, 
were authorized to make alienations unconditionally. Mr. Galla- 
tin is under a mistake when speaking of this grant, he observes 
that all mines which had ceased to be worked for a certain num- 
ber of years, reverted to the king. This was the case under tlie 
^ant to Crozalj but the grunts to Renaud were made bv the Mis^ 
X 2 



258 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

The object of this view, is to give some account of 
the different mines, the manner of working them^ 
their produce, &c. 

1. What is called a discovery^ by those engaged 
in working the mines, is, when any one happens upon 
an extensive body of ore. This is made, by digging 
several holes or pits, five or six feet deep, in some 
spot supposed to contain ore, and if a considerable 
quantity is at once found, the place is called a disco- 
very ; but if only a few pounds, it is abandoned. But 
the fact is, that there arc few places, thioughout the 
mine tract, in which such discoveries cannot be 
made, though perhaps, with different degrees of la- 
bour. Several are made every season, and each 
continues for a time in vogue, and the miners flock 
to it from all the others, until the report spreads of 
the discovery of some new spot, where the ore is 
found in still greater abundance, and procured with 
more ease ; to this place they are again attracted.. 
A discovery is at length hxed upon, which obtain^, 
the preference througliout the rest of the season. A 
discovery is sometimes published when there is not 
much to warrant, but the number of persons drawn 
to the place, make one in reality. 

«.isslppi company, or company of the West. It is worthy of atten- 
tion, that this is the only large allodial grant made by France to 
an individual, during- the whole time she possessed Louisiana; 
"the larger concessions which now embarrass our government so 
much, have been uniformly made by Spain or Great Britain. The 
heirs ofRenaudwere a longtime ignorant of the grant, wliich 
existed in the archives of the Illinois ; the cession to the United 
States brouglit it to light. The present claimant, the marquis 
•le Tournon, who married the daughter of madame de Punse- 
Mion, (the grand child of Renaud) is said to be a man of fortune 
and of a most amiable character. I have had occasion to examine, 
this, amongst a gTcat number of other large grants, and I consider 
it to be the most equitable, fair and authentic, that I have met 
v/ith. 



BOOK fl, LEAD AHXES, 8tc. 259 

2. The ore is most commonly found in the slopes, 
near rivulets, in a clay of a deep red colour; fre- 
quently but a few feet from the surface of the ground, 
and in huge masses, of sometimes a thousand and 
even two thousand lbs. but most usually in lumps 
from one to fifty lbs. weiglit. Tiie rock which is 
either a primitive limestone, or a kind of sand stone, 
is struck at the deptli of eight or ten feet. Various 
kinds of clay are often found in tliese pits, and 
amongst some other substances, the blende ore of 
zinc has been discovered. The ore contains a con- 
siderable proportion of sulphur, arsenic, and it is 
believed, of silver; tliough in respect to the last, it 
has not been sufficiently tested by experiments, to 
know whether tlie proportion would repay the trou- 
ble and expense of separating. It is higldy pro- 
bable that the ore of some of the mines, may yield it 
sufficiently. The ore of the Maramek, which, I am 
informed, has been partially essayed, gave the most 
flattering result. Above the rock, the ore is fmmd ia 
enormous masses, in strata, apparently horizontal, 
and often two feet thick, and several of these are pass- 
etl before tlie rock arrests the progress of the miner, 
I have seen pits ten or twelve feet deep where the 
strata of ore had only been dug through, the digger 
intending to strike the rock before he attempted to 
undermine ; perhaps, gratifying his vanity with the 
pleasing contemplation of the shining mineral, his 
riclies. In the rock there appears to be no regular 
veins ; the ore occupies the accidental fissures, as is 
the case generally in lead mines. Leads, (or loads) 
are the smaller fissures that connect with the larger, 
which are called by the miners, caves. The ore is 
wliat is called potter's ore, or galena, and has a 
broad shining grain 5 but there is also, what is call- 



260 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

ed gravel ore, from being found in small pieces iii 
graA el ; and that kind of ore called floats^ being 
formed in large irregular, but unconnected masses. 
Th^ first kind is the most to be depended on : the 
uncertainty of the floats, and the trouble of smelting 
the gravel ore, render both of less consequence.—' 
The potter's ore, or galena, has always adhering to 
it, a sparry matter, which the miners call tiiff and' 
which requires to be separated with small picks made 
for that purpose: this operation is called cleaning 
the ore. The floats have no tiif, and are the most 
easily smelted. 

3. The mode of working the mines is exceedingly 
simple. The word diggingSf by which they are 
known, very well designates the appearance of these 
places ; pits, and heaps of clay thrown out of them, 
covering sometimes fifty acres or more. With two 
or three exceptions, there is scarcely any place 
which might be termed mining. There is but one 
shaft, Vvhich is at the Mine a'Burion, and sunk by 
Moses Austin. The miners usually work them upon 
their own account, and dispose of their ore to the 
smelters : there are some, however, who hire hands 
by the month, or employ slaves. But experience 
has shewn that it is best for the interests of both the 
digger and the smelter to pursue the first mode; 
from the chance to the one of falling upon a good 
body of ore, and to the other of the general uncer- 
tainty; the keeping a number of persons in constant 
pay for a length of time before he would be remune- 
rated by a profitable discovery. If mining were 
carried on in a profitable manner, the case w^ould be 
different; the profits miglit then be susceptible of 
calculation, but this scrat( hing the surface of the 
earth cannot be attended with cei^tainty^ To find a 



BOOK II. LEAD MINES, Sec. 261 

large body of ore, so near the surface, although not 
unfrequent, yet cannot be depended upon ; it is little 
better than a lottery. The miners have a variety of 
rules amongst themselves, to prevent disputes in 
diggings. Each one takes a pole, and measures off 
twelve feet in every direction from tlie edge : the 
pits seldom exceed eight or ten feet in diameter. 
He is not permitted to undermine farther than liis 
twelve feet, but must dig a new pit if the ground be 
not occupied. The only instruments are a pick, 
wooden shovel, and a sledge hammer, to break rocks. 
The ore delivered at the pit, sells from twenty to 
twenty-five dollars per thousand lbs. A digger will 
sometimes raise two thousand in one day, but not- 
withstanding, these people do not grow rich faster 
than their neighbours. What is easily earned is 
carelessly spent; and besides, it often happens that 
the miner will work for months without making a 
cent, before he has the luck of lighting on this trea- 
sure. It sometimes happens that he will quit in des- 
pair, a pit at which he has been labouring for months, 
while another leaps in, and after a few hours work, 
falls upon a body of ore that would have rewarded 
tlie labours of the first. The appearance of ore in 
a pit which has been the work of a few days, is fre- 
quently such as to enable him to sell it for four or 
Ave hundred dollars. This kind of gaming, for it 
scarcely deserves any other name, gives rise to great 
industry and satisfaction in the miners. The con- 
stant stretch of expectation in which the mind is 
kept, gives a zest to their labours. 

4. The careless mode of smelting in use proves 
the great abundance of the ore. There is but one 
regular fui*nace, the rest are of a temporary an d 
simple construction. The most common are built 



262 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

on the decliviity of some hill, with stones, open at the 
top, and with an arch below. Three large logs 
about four feet long, so as to fit the furnace, are roll- 
ed in, smallenpieccs of wood placed round, and the 
ore then heaped up in large lumps : fire is set to it 
in the evening, and by the next morning there will 
be a sufficient quantity of the melted lead in the lit- 
tle reservoir or hole, scratched in the earth before 
the arch, to commence the operation of pouring it in- 
to moulds to form pigs. Tliere are usually several 
of these furnaces joined together. About six thou- 
sand lbs. of ore are put into each, and the first smelt- 
ing produces 50 per cent, besides leaving a quantity 
of scori or scorched ore. The ashes, which contain 
particles of ore and scori, are washed, and smelted 
in a furnace of a different construction, and often 
yield twenty -five or thirty percent, more. The ore 
smelted in this rude way, may be safely considered 
as yielding seventy-five per cent. There remains a 
dark green substance called slag, which on late ex- 
amination, is thought still to retain a proportion of 
lead worth pursuing. There is noprocess of pound- 
ing or washing, except at the air furnace. The 
tliree modes of smelting, to wit, the open furnace, the 
ash furnace, and the air furnace, (belonging to Mr. 
Ausdn,) have all been introduced since the Ameri- 
cans took possession of the country. The Creoles 
never smelted any other way than by throwing the 
lead on log heaps. Each of the diggings has its 
smelting furnace, and the ore is smelted on the spot. 
The business of smelting is considered unhealthy, 
but that of mining remarkably the reverse. This 
unhealthiness arises from the fumes of the furnace, 
in which there are quantities of arsenic and sulphur. 
Animals raised about the furnace are ficquently poi- 



BOOK n. LEAD MINES, &c. 263 

soned, by licking the ore, or even the stones. Dogs 
and cats, and even poultry, are seen to I'all down sud- 

jly and die. 

Having taken this general view, of tlie mines, 
tl^eir produce, &c. I sliall proceed to describe the 
different diggings^ more miiuitely. I have else- 
where obscn ed, tliat they are scattered over a tract 
of country about sixty miles in length and twenty- 
five in breadth, many of those in vogue a few- 
years ago, are now abandoned, for new discove- 
ries. The appearance of the diggings whicli I have 
iK^.fore partly described, is like that of small villages, 
consisting of a collection of little cabins or huts. — 
The distance from Mine la Motte, to the Rich wood 
mines, the one on the St. Francis, and the other 
near the Maramek, is about sixty miles; and from 
Fourche Courtois, wcvstofthe Minea'Burton (which 
I have considered as the centre) to the mines near- 
est the Mississippi, is about twenty-five miles. — 
There is no doubt but that mines are equally good 
as any that arc wi'ought may be found out of this 
tract in every direction; even within a few miles of 
the Mississippi. Not more than four miles from 
that river, between col. Hammond's farm and Her- 
culaneum, I picked up in the road, a large lump of 
ore, which had been washed out by rain a short time 
before. 

Mne a^Bmion — It is situated on a handsome 
stream, a branch of Big river, and large enough to 
turn a mill the whole year. The village, which is 
much superior to those which are formed near the 
diggings, is built on either side of it. The diggings 
extend amund it in every direction, but the jirinci- 
pal, which are called the Citadel diggings, are im- 
mediately Wv'!st, on a high prairie. They occupy 



264. VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

about two huridi^d acres. The surface of the 
ground has been tolerably well searched; and very 
great quantities of lead, from the first discovery of 
this place to the present time, have been made : it 
will now be necessary to sink into the bowels of the^ 
earth before much more can be done : this place has 
been nearly abandoned by the common diggers.— 
A shaft, and the first known in tliis country, has 
been sunk by Mr. Austin, on a part which falls 
within his concession. It is about eighty feet in 
depth, and drifts, in various directions, extend a 
considerable distance. Twenty hands, might work 
here at present to advantage, and with sure pros- 
pects of profits. They are not yet incommoded by 
the intrusion of the water, owing to the height of 
their situation. 

The situation of this village is pleasant, there are 
some handsome dwellings ; the inhabitants, about 
twenty families, turn their attention to agriculture. 
The surrounding country, although broken in many 
parts, yet affords a great deal of fine land : the soil, 
as is general throughout the mine tract, is of a deep 
red, and supposed to be principally produced by the 
decomposition of pyrites, which are known to be a 
manure. Col. Perry shewed me a field in which 
wheat liad been sown for twelve successive years, 
and no apparent diminution in the crop. 

JVew Biggings^ about two miles east of the Mine 
a'Burtonj they were opened about the year 1806: 
and from the fame which they acquired, drew^ the 
miners from nearly all the otlier mines. It is 
thought, that during the year, in which these were 
worked, more lead was made, tlian lias been since, 
in any one year throughout the mines. For two or 
three years past, until the present season, these dig- 



BOOK II. LEAD MINES, Sec. 265 

gings were almost neglected. They are now 
wrought b}^ several gentlemen with hired hands and 
slaves. They work in a few pits that had already 
been sunk to a considerable depth, hut had been re- 
linquished on account of the water ; this difficulty 
has been obviated by machinery. There are several 
farms around it. 

J\Iine Renaud,, north of the Mine a'Burton about 
six miles, is situated upon a branch of the Mineral 
Fork, a large creek. It has not been wrought for 
many years, but a neAV discovery made within a 
short distance of it, is very flattering. The adjacent 
country consists of rugged hills, and one might al- 
most fancy himself in the Allegheny mountains. 

Elliott's Diggings, Old Mines ^ and the Mines of 
Belle Fontaine, may be considered under the same 
head : in half a day one may easily visit them all. — . 
Elliott's diggings have been worked for several 
years, by the proprietors, and to advantage. The 
old mines, for three or four years have been entirely 
neglected : the land is good, and there is a little set- 
tlement of twenty or thirty industrious people who 
cultivate it. These mines are from six to twelve 
miles from the Mine a'Burt«)n. Brown^s Digging's 
are the most noted of those near Belle Fontaint .-— 
In the course of the year before last, little short of 
one million lbs. of lead were smelted here. A con- 
siderable quantity is still made, and the appearance 
of the diggings are flattering, and, but for the dis- 
persion of tlie miners to other places, might be work- 
ed as profitably as any others. They ai-e situated 
within a short distance of Big river: and about 
twenty-five miles from Herculaneum. 

Bryants Diggings, a few miles east of Big river. 
It is about eighteen months since these were disco- 

z 



266 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

vered : but there has been more lead than at any 
other place of the district, in tlie course of the pi*e- 
sent year. They are situated twenty-live miles 
from St. Genevieve, and twenty from Hercula- 
neum. 

Richwood Mines, are situated about twenty miles 
N. E. of the Mine a'Burton; they are said to be 
productive. 

Mine a'JoCf on Big river, higher up than Bryan's 
Diggings, and somewhat further from St. Genevieve. 
Only a few. hands have been employed here during 
the present season. 

Mine a la Motte, four miles from the St. Francis, 
and on a small stream which falls into that river; 
it is one of the oldest, and has been constantly 
wrought for many years, and produces a considera- 
ble quantity even on the present mode of mining. — 
The distance is about thirty miles from St. Ge- 
nevieve. There is a handsome little village ; tlie 
inhabitants sober and industrious. 

Perry^s Diggings, Mine LiberUj, Fourche Courtois, 
are new discoveries. There are also some others 
of less note. 

The Big river, Terre Bleu, and the Mineral Fork, 
are considerable streams which meander through the 
mine tract. Big river is long, but extremely crook- 
ed ; in length it falls little short of a hundred 
miles, from its source to where it discliarges itself 
into the Maramek : and may be ascended upwards 
of sixty miles in periogues. There are extensive 
bodies of fine land in its neighborhood, both bottom 
and upland. The mine tract generally, a thing 
somewhat unusual in mineral countries, is well 
adapted to agriculture. No country can be more 



BOOK IL LEAD MINES, kt. 267 

plentifully watered, possessing in great abundance 
tlie most delightful fountains and rivulets. 

It is not more tlian three or four years since the 
settlements througli this country commenced. The 
Spanish government held out encouragements to 
American settlers, and I have been informed that 
about the years 1801 — 2, emigration was beginning 
to flow in rapidly: it is probable in a few years, un- 
less restrained by government, there would have 
been a considerable poptilation. The farmers in the 
mine country, will liave the advantage of a ready 
market near them for their produce, and in the win- 
ter season, when their farms do not require atten- 
tion, they will find a profitable employment in trans- 
porting their lead to the towns, for the purpose of 
being shipped. 

The following is an estimate from the best infor- 
mation I can procure, of the annual produce of the 
different mines, and of the number of persons en- 
gaged in them ; without counting smelters, black- 
smiths, and others. 

Mine a' Burton 
New Diggings 
Perry's Diggings, 1 
Mine Liberty, &c. J 
Elliott's Diggings 
Mines of Belle Fontaine 
Bryan's Diggings 
Richwoods 
Mine ala Motte 
Fourche Courtois 
Mine a'Robins and 1 
Mine a'Joe J 

1,525,000 ry50 



Ihs, lead. 


hands^ 


50,000 


15 


200,000 


40 


60,000 


50 


100,000 


20 


; 300,000 


50 


600,000 


70 


75,000 


30 


100,000 


40 


10,000 


15 


30,000 


20 



268 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

From this, some estimate may be formed of the 
produce of these mines. When they come to be ex~ 
tensively worked, I have not a doubt but that they 
will be able to supply the United States, not only 
with a sufficient quantity for home consumption, 
but also with an immense surplus for commerce. 

The government has manifested by some acts, an 
intention of reserving- to itself the mineral tracts. — 
But the policy of tliis, I think, may be fairly ques- 
tioned. It is just and wise, that mines of gold and 
silver, or of other precious minerals, whose value is 
conventional or imaginary, should be reserved, or at 
least a proimrtion of them : but in ores of load or 
iron, whose value depends on the labor bestowed on 
them, and which are besides intrinsically useful, 
there should be no interference with individuals.- — 
In this country, where almost every tract, and for a 
great extent, contains mines, the reservation would 
be almost impracticable. I can no more approve of 
this reservation, than I do that of salines. I think 
they are contrary to correct principles in any go- 
vernment, and particularly in the United States. — 
A just government will never enter into competition^ 
either in trade or manufacture, with individuals. — < 
The individual in such cases, has to contend against 
fearful odds. There is a littleness in it degrading 
to the magnanimity of a great republic. 

By an act of congress, the governor of the terri- 
tory is authorised to grant leases, of three years, 
to persons discovering lead mines, or salines. 

The manners of the workmen and of the persons 
engaged in the mining business, have been repre- 
sented as barbarous in the extreme. I am told, that 
a few years ago, there was a collection of worthless 
and abandoned characters, and that the different mines 



BOOK n. LEAD MINES, &c. 269 

were scenes of broils and savage ferocity ; but this 
state of society, has greatly altered since that time. 
There has been some very atrocious acts committed 
lately, but it would be unfair to infer from these the 
general character of those engaged about tlie mines. 
— Tliere are many worthy and reputable men en- 
gaged in this business, and many respectable fami- 
lies arc scattered tlirough the mine country. 



Z2 



CHAP. IX. 

Description of the American bottom— Kaskaskia-^ 
Fort de Chartres — Monks of La Trappe. 

AS this fine tract of land was the original seat of 
the French settlements, although at present no longer 
apart of Louisiana, it has appeared to me proper to 
give some description of it. Tlie American bottom^ 
as it is now called, extends from the Kaskaskia ri- 
ver to the Illinois, the distance of one hundred miles, 
and on an average six miles wide. It is enclosed 
to the eastward, by a ridge of highland, which rises 
abruptly from the plain, in some places presenting 
rocky precipices, in others beautiful sloping hills^ 
and every where crowned with trees. The ridge is 
probably five or six miles in width, generally cover- 
ed with wood, and of a tolerable soil. A number of 
streams flow from the bluffs, and many fine springs 
issue from the limestone rocks ; but owing to the 
evenness of the surface of the American bottom, the 
smaller form ponds and lagoons, which are well sup- 
plied with fish, and in the season, covered with 
millions of wild fowl. There are besides, larger 
lakes whose banks resemble those of tlie river, and 
it is probable, the river was once enclosed by them. 

The American bottom, is by far the most beauti- 
ful and fertile tract of land I have seen in the wes- 
tern country. This delightful plain, is capable of 
supporting a greater number of human beings, and 



BOOK U. DESCRIPTION OF KASKASKIA, &c. 271 

is susceptible of being more highly cultivated than any 
portion of equal surface in America. No part of 
the United States, discovers so many vestiges of an- 
cient population ,• besides the groups of mounds of 
which I have spoken, the whole of this tract as well 
as the opposite bank of the Mississippi, present the 
most surprising traces of a numerous population. — 
The whole face of the bluff or hill, which encloses it, 
appears to have been for at least eighty miles, a con- 
tinued burial groimd ; and the number of mounds^ 
the astonishing quantity of human bones and frag- 
ments of earthen ware, with a thousand other curi- 
ous appearances, announce that this valley was at 
one period filled with habitations and villages. I 
have little doubt that this ground at some remote pe- 
riod of antiquity, was inhabited by at least half a 
million of souls. 

The greater part is a succession of meadows, with 
here and there thicketsof plumb trees and sumack. — 
The groves of peccanne, oak, or cotton wood, are 
about the same propor-tion as we find in parts of the 
country, which have been a long time settled. Ear- 
ly in tlie spring and during winter, from the loos- 
ness of the soil, the roads are excessively bad, but at 
other times, nothing can be more del ghtful than to 
ride from Kaskaskiato Cohokia. One morning on 
my way to St. Louis, I was induced to turn out of 
the road, and ascend the eastern bluff in order to 
take a view of the plain. It was before sun up, and 
tlie wreath of vapour which hung over the river, 
stretched about midway along the hills which rise on 
the western side, forming islands in the ( louds, a 
beautiful and picturesque appearance much admired 
by the lovers of nature. The plain below, was deck- 
ed out in all its variety and luxuriancy of vegetation, 



272 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

with here and theie a glassy lake, or a column of 
vapour ascending and slowly rolling into various 
shapes; but there prevailed almost the quietness and 
stillness of primeval time. Excepting a few scat- 
tered cahhins, and some fields of Indian corn, there 
were no marks of population. A few deer were seen 
<* shaking the dew drops from their flanks," and 
bounding towards the hills. 

The French settlements in this valley had in the 
course of sixty years become very considerable. — 
There were a number of large villages, a lucrative 
fur trade was carried on, and their agriculture ex- 
tensive : I find it stated by several writers, that these 
settlements sent to New Orleans in one year (1746) 
eight hundred thousand lbs. of flour, while at this 
time, there was not a single settlement on the wes- 
tern side of the river. The principal villages were 
Kaskaskia, Prairie du Roche, Cohokia de Char- 
tres, and St. Philip; the two last have entirely dis- 
appeared, and the former exhibits the remains or 
ruins of considerable towns. Kaskaskia which now 
contains little more than seven hundred souls, is said 
to have contained at least five thousand. The ruins 
of ancient buildings, the remains of splendid gar- 
dens, the delapidated walls everywhere visible, fur- 
nish ample proof of its former consequence. It is^ 
situated about three or four miles from the Missis- 
sippi, on the bank of the beautiful little river Kaskas- 
kia, which falls into the Mississippi nine miles be- 
low. There is no town in America which bears 
such appearance of antiquity ; the bank on this ri- 
ver, is worn down by long use. We still see the re- 
mains of an immense building erected by the Jesuits^ 
immediately on the bank ; together with the traces 
of an elegant garden. On the other side of the 



BOOK fl. DESCRIPTION OF KASKASKIA, &g. 273 

Kaskaskia, a hill four or five hundred feet rises with 
a steep ascent, and near the top we still see the ruins 
of a fort or castle. From tlic top of this hill, 1 en- 
joyed a beautiful prospect. The sun was just go- 
ing down bfchind the hills on the western side of the 
mighty river, leaving a golden tinge on the detached 
and solitary remains in the plain below^, and the 
tufts of trees which grew near them ; while dark- 
ness seemed already to cover the narrow stream at 
my feet ; a deep silence prevailed over the extensive 
scene, and no object seemed across it, excepting the 
domestic herds returning from their pastur-.s, and 
moving in great numbers to the same point from 
every quarter. 

Fort de Chartres is situated about fifteen miles 
above Kaskaskia. It isa noble ruin, and is visited 
by strangers as a great curiosity, I was one of 
a party of ladies and gentlemen who ascended 
in a barge from St. GenevieA^e, nine miles below. — 
The fort stands immediately on the bank of the ri- 
ver, which has carried off a considerable part of it. 
The outward wall is still in good preservation, about 
twenty feet in height, and five or six in thickness. — 
The walls of the barracks are still standing, but the 
inside grown up with briars, and trees of a consi- 
derable size. The magazine is in a good state, and 
there are a number of cannon in various parts lying 
half buried in the earth, with their trunnions broken 
ofl'. Nearly the whole area, is overgrown with 
trees, and in some places with thickets almost impe- 
netrable. In visiting the various parts, we started 
a flock of wild turkies, which had concealed them- 
selves in this hiding place. I remarked a kind of 
enclosure near which, according to tradition, was 
fitted up by the officers, as a kind of arbour, where 



274 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA 

they could sit and converse during the heat of the 
day. It is said, that this fort cost the French king 
upwards of a million of crowns, and was usually gar- 
risoned by a full regiment. The village which 
grew up near it, has disappeared without leaving a 
trace behind. This was once a place of refinement 
and unusual gaiety. Prairie du Roche, is seen at 
the distance of two or three miles ; so called from 
the smooth rocky precipices, which rise like an arti- 
ficial wall, and aie covered with a smooth sodded 
bark resembling a glacis. After passing a few hours 
in examining the curiosities of this venerable place, 
and gathering strawberries, which are in great abun- 
dance in the neigliboring plain, we re-embarked, 
and glided rapidly down the river, to the sound of 
several musical instruments, and much pleased with 
our excursion. 

Having spoken of the Trappists in my account of 
the mounds in the American bottom, I here subjoin 
a description of this singular society. 

They at present occupy four or five cabins, built 
on an Indian mound about fifty yards high, and one 
hundred and fifty feet square. The other buildings, 
cribs, stables, &c. ten or fifteen in number, are dis- 
tributed on the plain below. I was informed that 
they intended to build on the terrace of the large 
mound ; this will produce a fine effect, it will be seen 
five or six miles across the plain, and from some 
points of view ten or twelve.. They have about one 
hundred acres enclosed in three different fields, in- 
cluding the large mound, and several others. 

On entering the yard, I found a number of per- 
sons at work, some hauling and storing away the 
crop of corn ; otliers, shaping timber for some in- 
tended edifice. The greater number were boys 



BOOK H. DESCRIPTION OF KASKASKIA, &c. 2^5 

from ten to fourteen years of age. The effect on my 
mind, was inexpressibly strange, at seeing them 
pass and repass each otlier in perfect silence. But 
notliing is so strong as nature, 1 admired the cheer- 
ful drollery of a nuiiatto lad, with one Irg, who was 
attending tne horse mill : as the other boys passed 
by, he contrived by some odd trick or gesticulation, 
to attract their notice, and commonly succeeded in 
exciting a smile. It was a faint watery gleam of 
sun shine, which broke through the suiTounding 
gloom. Perpetual silence may be a severe penance, 
bat cannot be a vii'tue. Good God, tbought 1, is it 
possible that the gift which thou best(twedst, to dis- 
tinguish us amidst thy ** vast creation' ' should be 
thus despised; for without speech, how could we 
ever communicate to each other, that we possess a 
reasoning mind — an emanation of the divine essence? 
Fatigued and chagrined at this scene, which I 
contemplated apparently unobserved, I ascended the 
mound which contains tlie dwellings. This is nearly 
twenty-five feet in heiglit; the ascent rendered easy 
by a sloping road. 1 wandered about here for some 
time, in expectation of being noticed ; it was in vain 
that I nodded to the reverend fathers, or peeped into 
their cabins. And yet, I own I felt a kind of awe, 
for which I was unable to discover the most distant 
cause; perhaps the solemn stillness and the novelty 
of the scene may account for it. At length sitting 
down upon a log, I amused myself with the ap- 
pearance of the different figures as they passed. I 
had read of these solitary men, but here they really 
exis- ed. It awakened a thousand recollections of his- 
tory or romance, as they passed by me like phan- 
toms, and 1 gave a loose to my reflections. 



2^r6 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

I had the good fortune to he accosted hy a young 
man, who 1 discovered to be in their employment as 
a kind of steward, though not otherwise attached to 
the society. This was no small relief: I made a va- 
riety of enquiries after him, but to very little pur- 
pose : he w as however obliging, and promised to 
speak in my behalf to Father Joseph, wiio soon 
made his appearance ; I learned tliat he had the go- 
vernment of the society in the absence of Father Ur- 
hain. He is a sprightly and intelligent man, and 
to my surprise, talked with wonderful volubil- 
ity, which excited in me almost as much astonish- 
ment as w as experienced by Robinson Crusoe in his 
island, when addressed by his parrot. He invited 
me into the watchmaker's shop, for they carry on 
several trades, to assist in supporting the institution. 
The shop was well furnished; part was occupied as 
a laboratory and library; the latter but indifferent ; 
a few medical works of no repute, and some theolo- 
gical folios. Several men were at work, and some 
boys busily employed. One poor fellow, ten or 
twelve years of age, attracted my attention and pity. 
He was seated by a stove, making strokes on a slate, 
and appeared to have just risen from the bed of sick- 
ness, or rather from the tomb. Emaciated to the 
last extreme, his face was pale, cold and bloodless, 
his lips pui'pled, his sunken eye marked by a livid 
streak, and his countenance overspread wdth a list- 
less stillness. Had it not been for the feeble motion 
of his hand as he drew it over the slate, and the oc- 
casional raising of his heavy and languid eyelid, I 
could have believed that the tenant of this sad and 
melancholy ruin, had gone to seek a happier abode. 
Alas ! poor lone creature, thou hast no mother, no 
sister, to watch over thee with the tenderness and 



BOOK IL DESCRIPTION OF KASKASKIA, &c. 'Jt? 

tsolicitude which none but a mother or sister can feel ! 
Father Joseph advances towards him with a tender- 
ness and benignity of countenance which I did not 
expect in a Trappist : lie endeavoured to cheer him 
by speaking pleasantly to him, but the poor fellow 
had lost the power of smiling; his physiognomy was 
locked up in rigid coldness, which nothing but re- 
turning health, oi* the warmth of parental affection 
could soften. 

Father Joseph inquired whether I had dined, and 
being informed in tlie negative had something pre- 
pared. My fare was simple, consisting chiefly of 
vegetables ; though not less acceptable, for it was 
given with good will. Having returned thanks to 
the Father for his hospitality, I took my leave. 
. I learned that the family of the Trappists consists 
of about eighty persons, a considerable number of 
whom are not at home. The boys are generally 
American ; the men principally German and French. 
They expect a considerable accession trom Europe. 
It is about a year since they have been fixed in this 
place. Last summer proved fatal to five or six, and 
few escaped the prevailing fever. They deny that 
the place is unhealthy, and say that those who died 
Avere chiefly old men ; the meager diet, and scanty 
nourishment, which is taken by such as have made 
the vow, must certainly render them more suscepti- 
ble of decease. They first settled in Kentucky, af- 
terwards came to Florissant, near St.^Louis, and 
from thence to their present residence. They are 
supposed to be an industrious well meaning people, 
and I should be willing to sec them treated with re- 
spect, and even encouragement in all but one thing ; 
the education of children. This is foreign from the 
original design of their institution, which is a total 
A a 



278 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

seclusion from the world. Such a place is for a thon-« 
sand reasons not calculated for a school : a boy 
broug-])t up here to the age of one and twenty, can 
never be fit for any thing but a Trappist. It 
may be said that an assylum is here offered to those 
in extreme distress — to those unfortunate wretches, 
who, aged and friendless, are in danger of perishing 
for want. Happily for our country such instances ^ 
are rare indeed. Or for those unhappy orphans, 
who may be exposed from their helplessness to be 
without support, and to whom, inhuman barbarity 
may liave denied a home and a protection. I may 
safely say that these are as rare as the others. In 
America, it is not necessary as in P^urope, to give a 
fee with a boy who is bound apprentice to any par- 
ticular calling ; on tlie contrary there is scarcely any 
mechanic who will not gladly take him and teach 
him his trade for the service which he may render, 
before the expiration of the apprenticeship. 

A brief history of tJjis singular institution, may 
not be unentertaining. The monastery of La Trappe 
was situated in the province of Ferche, in France : 
in one of the most solitai-y spots that could be cho- 
sen. It was founded in 1 140, by Rotrou Count of 
Perche. This monastery had fallen into decay, and 
its discipline much relaxed, when reformed by the 
Abbe Ranee, 1664. Ranee had met with some mis- 
fortune, which rendered life hateful to him, some as- 
sert the sudden death of madame Montbazon, whosv^> 
favourite lover lie had been. He had been a man of 
fashion, and possessed some pretentions to literature ; 
he is said to have translated the poems of Anacreon. 
Into this monastery, w hither he came, he carried a re- 
form of the most savage austerity. The vow was 
perpetual silence; the miserable Trappist denied 



EOOK n. DESCIUPTION OF KASKASKIA, &c. 279 

himself during liis existence, every comfort of 
life. He laid himself on a stone, and was freijucntly 
called in the dead of night to his devotions. His 
food was hread and water, and this but once in the 
twenty-four hours. Each day he removed from his 
intended grave one spadefuU of eartli, in order to 
keep ever present to his mind that he must soon en- 
tirely cease to be of this Avorld. A French writer, 
(who is, however, unfiiendly to the institution,) 
says — C^est la quells se retirent, ceux qui out eommis 
quelque crime secret dont ies remords les ponrsuivent ; 
ceux qui sont tourmente^s de rapeurs melancholiques^ 
et religieuses ; ceux qui out ouhlie' que Dieu est le plus 
mise-ricordieux des peres* et qui ne voyent en lui^ que 
le plus cruel des tijrans^ <^c. 

Such institutions, it must be acknowledged, are 
not treated with much respect in tlie United States ; 
we can hardly speak of them with candour, or think 
of them without prejudice. It is true, this is the 
land of freedom and toleration, but it is also the 
land of good sense. Every one may pursue his spi- 
ritual or temporal happiness, in what way he pleases; 
but his neighbours have also the liberty of laughing 
at him, if in the pursuit of that happiness, he exhibits 
singularities which appear to the rest of the world 
ridiculous. 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

IN THREE BOOKS. 

BOOK III. 



liOOK 111. 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA 



IN THREE BOOKS. 



CHAPTER I. 

State of Louisiana — boundaries — general descrijrtion. 

The state of Louisiana is bounded in the following 
manner : " beginning at tlie mouth of the river Sa- 
bine, thence by a line to be drawn along the middle 
of said river, including all its islands, to the 32d de- 
gree of north latitude, thence due north, to the north- 
ernmost part of the 33d degree of north latitude, 
thence along the said parallel of latitude, to tlie Mis- 
sissippi, as follows : from the 31st degree of north 
latitude on the Mississippi, along the said parallel 
of latitude, to the eastern branch of Pearl river, and 
down Pearl river to its mouth, thence to the mouth 
ef the Sabine. It is bounded on the north and east 
A a2 



'J82 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

by tlie Mississippi territory, the south by the ragged 
coast of the gulph of Mexico, and on the other sides 
by unoccupied lands of the United States. 

Its shape is exceedingly irregular, arising from 
the unevenness of tlie coast, and from the line on 
the eastern side commencing only at the 31st degree 
of noi^th latitude. Were it to begin at the S3d, so 
as to correspond with the line on the western side, 
the state would be left in a more compact and defi- 
nite shape. Something has been said of carrying 
this into eflect, if it should meet tlie approbation of 
the peoj)le of the Mississippi territory. Much might 
he said in favour of it ; it would tend to lessen the 
expense of state government, to both, and give that 
right to the Mississippi territory sooner tlian could 
be well expected without. But the great objections, 
and indeed they seem almost insurmountable, arise 
from the difficulty of subjecting that territory to the 
civil law, after having been so long accustomed to a 
different ; and to introduce the law into this state, at 
once, would be higldy impolitic, if practicable. 

With respect to the surface of the state, it may be 
easily comprehended under three general descrip- 
tions : 

1. The tract of upland — 

2. The alluvia and sunken lands — 

3. The prairies or savannas. 

I. The tract of upland constitutes three fifths of 
tlie whole state ; all that part of Florida above Iber- 
ville, which has been added to the state, is of this 
description. For fifteen or twenty miles from the 
Mississippi it is covered with heavy timber, princi- 
pally oak, poplai", walnut, the magnolia grandiflora, 
and a great variety of other laurels. After this, we 
find with little variation, open pine woods, except- 



BOOK in. BOUND AKIES, &c. 2S3 

ing on the banks of the streams, which are numerous 
and pleasant. On tlie otlicr side of the Mississippi, 
■west of the alluvia (which are i^enerally hounded by 
the Bayou Mascoii, Bayou Boeuf, and the Teehe) 
the upland commences, covered, witli but little a ari- 
ation, by the long leafed pine. It is divided to the 
soutli west by the avenue of Red river, beyond tiiis, 
it resumes its original appearance, with little inter- 
ruption, west to the Sabine : but in advancing to the 
gulph of Mexico, a change is gradually perceived. 
Within thirty miles of the Opelousas church, the 
pine woods imperceptibly gives place to groves of 
dwarf oak and hi( kory, with spots of ground cover- 
ed only with grass ; these groves at length appear 
only on the water courses, and we enter the bound- 
less prairies of Opelousas. 

II. The prairies or savannas, and alluvia, scarcely 
constitute the other two fifths of the state. Besides 
those on the Washita, and a few of no great extent, 
west of Black river, there are none of any conse- 
quence, except those of the Opelousas and Attaka- 
pas. These constitute a tract of nearly eighty miles 
in length, from east to west, and fifty in breadth. 
The prairies of Opelousas have a waving surface, 
though no w here rising into hills ; those of the Atta- 
kapas are flat and level, covered with a more luxu- 
riant and a coarser vegetation. The whole country 
is chequered by the woody margins of streams, call- 
ed bayou's,* though different from the refluent wa- 
ters of the river. The parts of the country in Eng- 
land, where the grounds are divided by hedge rows, 
might seem miniatures of the bold designs which na- 

* They are natural drains of the waters accumulated by the rains 
in the prairie; ponds and even lakes are formed in places by the 
rains. This ai^ises from tl\e uneven surface of the ^ound. 



284 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. 

tiire has displayed in laying off this tract. The 
fringes of wood on the horders of the hayou seldom 
exceed a half mile in width, and consist of live oak, 
magnolia, &c. and on the wet pai'ts, of cypress. 
The rivers Teche and Vermillion, have the largest 
tracts of timbered land, and are consequently the 
best settled parts of the prairies. The prairies will 
be found in the aggregate, the least valuable of the 
public domain ; if they be surveyed and laid off, as 
at present contemplated, it will be impossible to sell 
them for more than a trifle : Avho would purchase a 
tract of land situated perhaps at the distance of seve- 
ral miles from wood or water ? The fact is, that the 
greater part is only fit for pasturage, and there is lit- 
tle likelihood of any other use being made of it, for 
many years to come. From late observations, how- 
ever, it is probable, that in time, trees might be cul- 
tivated: the soil is growing richer from the manure 
left by the nimierous herds of cattle whicli contin- 
ually cover it. 

III. The alluvion lands constitute the third divi- 
sion. Much erroneous calculation lias been indulg- 
ed on this head. It has been a prevailing opinion, 
that by far the greater part of the state is composed 
of tills kind of land. From what I have said, it may 
be seen that it does not constitute more than the fifth 
of the whole : but of this portion, there is not more 
flian a fourth wiiich can be considered irreclaimable. 
When I say irreclaimable, I do not mean to convey 
the idea of any physical impossibility, but the great 
length of time which must elapse before it can be 
done. I am well satisfied that there is much less of 
the western side of the Mississippi rendered useless 
by the annual floods, than is usually stated. Tliis 
observation has been several times repeated in differ-^ 



BOOK III. BOUNDARIES, &c. 285 

ent parts of tliese views, and I find no reason to 
change my opinion. There is certainly much sunk- 
en and overflowed land, and perhaps not to be re- 
claimed mthout immense labour, and between the 
"Washita and the Mississippi, perhaps one third is of 
this kind. But there is nothing more incorrect than 
the general and vague accounts of writers on this 
subject, who state that the w estern side of the Mis- 
sissippi is annually inundated to the distance of thirttf 
or forty 9 and even sixty miles* The settlements es- 
tablished within a few years between the Washita 
and the Mississippi, prove the error of the opinion 
to which so many have given currency. It is truer 
as a general rule, that the bank of the Mississippi, 
is the highest part of the alluvion ground, but this 
is not always the case ; the bank of the bayous and 
of the lakes are as high, if not higher. On many of 
the bayous there are extensive tracts of upland, and 
this rarely occurs on the bank of the river itself be- 
low the Arkansas. Wherever these are to be found, 
we may safely conclude that the ground is but little 
subject to be covered by the overflowing of the w^a- 
ters. The road from Concordia, (opposite the town 
of Natchez) to the upland on the other side of Black 
river, is but seldom rendered impassible for travel- 
lers on horseback. I consider the extent of the lands 
subject to be inundated by the Mississippi, on the 
eastern side, as not exceeding fifteen miles, until we 
come to Black river. 1. From the foregoing out- 
line it will appear that the alluvion lands are chiefly 
on the western side of the Mississippi, (the bottoms 
on the eastorn side are not remarkable) and are 
finest along this river from the 33d degree, extending 
back to the distance of twenty miles, but suddenly 
widening on the approach to Red river. 2. On the 



286 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

Red river, of an average width of ten miles, widen- 
ing- on its approach to the Mississippi. 3. Below 
Ked river and constituting tlie western angle of tlie 
Delta. I think it probable, that on a better acquain- 
tance these tracts will be found to contain by far 
the most valuable portions of the public domain ; the 
proportion of sunken lands, reclaimable only with 
great difficulty, is less than the proportion of unpro- 
ductive pine woods, or of prairie not susceptible of 
cultivation from the w ant of wood and water. 

In order to give the reader a more satisfactory 
view of the subject, I will enter into some detail on 
the topography of different sections, or natural divi- 
sions. 

1. Section of the state between Red river ^ Mississippi^ 
and the line of the 35d degree of noiih Intitude. 

This embraces an extensive portion of the state, 
and of a character in many respects different from 
the rest. The greater part is of an uneven surface, 
in places hilly, and invariably covered with the long 
leafed pine. The soil, we may naturally suppose 
from its growth, to be poor, if not barren. But I 
have been informed by intelligent persons, that it is 
preferable to the pine lands of Georgia. There are 
no sand hills, and every where a luxuriant herbage, 
I have passed over some parts which are rocky, but 
in general we find a light grey colored earth, mixed 
with a considerable portion of sand. It is supposed 
that wheat migbt be grown in this soil to advantage. 
There are a great many beautiful streams of clear 
delightful water, upon whose borders, the lands are 
rich and clothed with a variety of trees, the magnolia 
and other laurels, always forming the greater pro- 
portion. These strips of land; or bottoms, rarely 



ii 



BOOK III. , BOUNDARIES, &c. 287 

exceed a mile in width. On the roads betvveea the 
Washita and Red river, there are a number of scat- 
tered settlers, who live tolerably well; the adjacent 
pine wood enabling them to keep large herds oi cat- 
tle. The coinitry is generally healthful, and when 
it becomes settled, will be one ofthe most pleasant in 
the state. The Washita, Catahoula, and Little ri- 
ver, are the principal streams by which this tract is 
watered. On the Washita tlierc is said to be upland, 
similar to that of the Missouri, and which is well 
suited to the raising of wheat. The country abounds 
with streams, which afford mill seats, but it is feared 
that the torrents which they roll along after heavy 
rain, would sweep away any work that might he 
erected. On some of tlie more considerable creeks, 
or rivulets, it often happens that tlie wliole valley is 
overflown. Their channels are deep, and many of 
them abound in quicksands, but their beds, are 
usually composed of gravel or stone. 

The exception to this general description consists 
in the tracts between the Washita and tlie Missis- 
sippi, tlie- greater part of which is low land. Black 
river, which loses its name at the junction of the 
Tensa, Washita and Catahoula, runs through the 
lower part of this tract. Tlie lands on the borders 
of this river, are too low, but not annually subject to 
be overflown. Tliere had been settlers for several 
years on its banks, all the way to the mouth, previ- 
ous to 1811, but the flood of that year, (one of the 
most remarkable experienced in this country,) com- 
pelled the greater part of them to abandon their 
plantations. The lands between the Black river. 
Red river, and the Mississippi, ai'e amongst the low- 
est in the alluvion tract. There are some lakes ; 
that of Concordia for instance, connected with the 



288 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

three rivers before mentioned, by bayou's diverging 
from all sides. On some of these bayou's the Tand 
is sufficiently high to admit of settlements. The 
greater part of this alluvion soil is tinged with red, 
from the admixture of the sediment brought down 
Red river, with tliat of the Mississippi. The tract 
enclosed by the Red river, Mississippi, Tensa, and 
a long narrow lake connected with the Tensa lake, 
called lake Anderson, forms the county of Concordia, 
which is almost an island, the east end of this lake 
approaching within a few miles of the Mississippi. 
Opposite this tract, on the western side of Black ri~ 
ver, there is another of nearly equal size, but which 
is a complete island, formed by the river just meii- 
tioned, with the bayou Saline, and the Catahoula 
lake and river. In this tract, there are no settle- 
ments ; the lands are extremely low. The lake call- 
ed Catafouloucta, situated on this tract, is said to 
have some high land on its borders. The Catahoula 
lake, is about thirty miles in length, and about six 
miles wide. It becomes nearly dry in autumn : 
at that season, and early in the spring, the ground 
is covered with fine herbage, and is resorted to by 
numerous herds of cattle. Besides several smaller 
streams, tliis lake receives the Little river, a fine 
stream more than two hundred miles in length ; it 
is discharged into Washita, by the Catahoula river, 
and into Red river by bayou Saline. 

The Tensa, which enters from the eastern side, 
forms, with tlie Washita and bayou Long, another 
island of an oval shape, and about fifty miles in cir- 
cumference. On this tliere are no settlers, thoi; < * 
it is not commonly subject to be overflown; it *> 
level rich soil^ in 1811, it was pretty geheralh 
vered with water to the depth of about one f" 



BOOK Iir. BOUNDARIES, &e. 289 

Trifling' levees would secure tliis tract, as indeed all 
those islands, if it were not for tlie numerous bayous 
of a smaller size which every where intersect the 
country ; entirely to close up their entrances, v^ould 
be attended with g-reat labor. Immediately above 
this island, there is another called Sicily island, a 
greater part of which, is rich upland, and supports 
a considerable settlement. It is about thirty miles 
in circumference. At the lower end of Sicily is- 
land the bayou Tensa spreads into a lake of fifteen 
or twenty miles in length, and nearly parallel with 
the Mississippi ; at one place near the settlement of 
Palmyra, it approaches within two or three miles of 
the Mississippi, and is at length connected with that 
river, it is supposed somewhere near Stack island, 
and forming one of its out-lets. Besides the Tensa 
lake, this bayou forms several others, of which lake 
Pro^ idence is the most considerable. Their banks 
are liigh, and rarely, if ever, subject to the effects 
of the floods of the ^Mississippi. The Tensa lake re- 
ceives two very considerable streams : the riviere 
aux Boeufs, and the bayous Mascon : both are sup- 
posed to have their sources partly in the pine woods, 
between the Washita and the Arkansas, and partly 
in some lakes, formed by the out-lets from the Ar- 
kansas and Mississippi : but from tlie clearness of 
their streams it is probable tliat tliey receive the 
greater part of their waters from the upland springs 
and rivulets. The bayou Mascon, may be consi- 
dered the boundary of the Mississippi swamp, and 
seldom recedes to a greater distance than fifteen 
miles from the river. The land between it and the 
riviere aux Boeufs is generally higli ])rairic, the 
lower part rises in bluffs of fifty or sixty feet high. 
There are sevcj'al connecting bayous between it 
Bb 



290 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

and the bayou Mascoii. The strip of land, perliaps 
on an average ten or fifteen miles in width, between 
those two bayous, is generally above the reach of 
inundation. Between tlie riviere aux Boeufs and 
the Washita, the land is low, and the overflowing of 
either river is sometimes ready to pour over the 
bank of the other. On a slight glance, this country, 
between the Mississippi and Washita, nearly four 
hundred miles on the river, and generally supposed 
to be annually covered with water to the depth of se- 
veral feet, is divided into long narrow strips, by the 
parallel courses of the Mississippi, bayou Mascon, 
riviere aux Boeufs, and the Washita ; with nume- 
rous connecting bayous, wliich in time, will be as 
useful as artificial canals; it is also interspersed with 
lakes whose banks are above the reach of inundation. 
During the flood of 1811, two Indians who had set 
off' from fort Adams, arrived at Sicily island, bring- 
ing with them several horses. They declared tliat 
they had to swim but two bayous, having followed 
the ridges of higli land. 

All those bayous are deep, and at all seasons af- 
ford sufficient water to navigate the largest barges. 
Their courses are generally crooked, and narrow, 
in places perhaps choked with logs and rafts. The 
Washita as high up as the 33 deg. of N. lat. is sel- 
dom more tlian forty miles from tlie Mississippi. — 
Two roads liave been cut, one to fort Mira, and the 
other to hayou Berthelemie, thirty miles above; 
they pass tlirough the tliick cane brakes, and 
in high water, it is necessary to swim a great 
numberof bayous, and to wade through places over- 
flown. 

I am conscious how diflTicult it if5 to convey ^ny 
idea of a country, particularly such as tiiis, without 



BOOK lU. BOUNDARIES, &.c. 291 

a map ; I do not know of any extant, >Yhicli I can 
recomniend to tiie readei* : that of Ltifon, is undoubt- 
edly the best yet publislied, but froui my own obser- 
vation, and what 1 liave learned li-om otiiers, it is by 
no means to be relied on. It was, however, the 
best that could be made at tlic time of its publica- 
tion, but since then, the country has become much 
better known. The manuscript map of Mr. Darby 
is greatly superior, the gTeater part ofit being taken 
trom actual survey.-^ 

The principal settlements are those of Concordia, 
Catahoula, and Washita. In tlie two last, the set- 
tlers cultivate cotton, but in the other, their princi- 
pal dependence is in the raising of stock and the 
culture of Indian corn, and tiiey generally live poor, 
having but few of the comforts and conveniences of 
life. 

2. The alluvion tract of Red river — Jvoyelle — Land 
around the mouth of Red river — Atchafalaya. 

The alluvion lands of Red river are remarkably 
distinguished from those of the Mississippi, by their 
deep red color, arising as is supposed by Dr. Hun- 
ter, from the decomposition of pyrites, or a mixture 
of some metallic substance. The lands on the At- 
chafalaya, and on numerous bayous at present fed 
by the waters of the Mississippi, are of this descrip- 
tion : the sediment brought down by Red river, ap- 
pears to predominate through a very extensive por- 
tion of the alluvion soil west of the Mississippi. 

* This has since been published, with an admirable g-eographi- 
oal tract on Louisiana. No one desirous of an accurate acquamtance 
with that coiuitry should be witliout them. 



292 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA, 

If it is difficult to give an idea of the country bor- 
dering on the Mississippi by a mere description in 
words, it is still more so with respect to the valley 
of Red river. Its irregular and confused shape, " if 
shape it can be called," baffles every attempt to com- 
pare it to any known figure in matliematics or 
in nature. This irregularity is principally caused 
by the strange and eccentric course which that river 
pursues. Instead of flowing in a regular channel, 
it divides its waters into a hundred streams, sepa- 
rating and again uniting so as to render it difficult 
to trace the principal river. Large tracts of primi- 
tive ground, or upland, in the ever changing course 
of this river, have been cut off from the main land, 
are now perfectly disconnected with it, and sur- 
rounded by alluvion ; the current having in time 
entirely worn away the primitive ground. There 
are a great number of bayous, or effluent streams, 
wJiich show incontestable proofs, of having been at 
diffijrent periods, the beds of the river. It is to be 
observed, that on theN. E. side, the Ked river is al- 
most invariably bounded by the primitive land, and 
the irregularities just mentioned, occur chiefly on 
the S. w estern side : from this it would appear, that 
this river, like the Mississippi, is progressing in its 
general course eastward, and that it could never 
have been much further in that direction than at 
present. Red river, would be almost as bold a stream 
as the Mississippi, but for the great diminution of 
its waters by subdivision and the formation of lakes; 
it has had the good effect of rendering the lauds in 
its vicinity more free from inundation, than those of 
the Mississippi. About 32 deg. 40, long. 96 deg. 15, 
Red river separates into two branches, which unite 
about ten miles above Natchitoclies. The eastern 



BOOK III. BOUNDARIES, &c. 293 

branch retains the name of the river, is the most con- 
siderable, but obstnicted by the great raft. A 
bayou wiiich makes out on the east side of this 
branch, spreads out into lake Bestianeau, and after- 
wards joins the main stream. The western branch 
does not flow in a well defined channel, but at short 
intervals, spreads out into lake Pisaquie, lake Mal- 
doux, and lake Long*, connected on the east side by 
bayou Pierre (properly a continuation of the west 
brancli) and immediately before the junction of the 
"two branches, the V(, branch, by an cftiuent bayou, 
contributes with tlie streams from the npland in 
forming the lake Espagnol.=^ The island, or tract, 
enclosed by the two branches, is of an oval form, and 
not less than two hundred miles in circumference; a 
considerable part is said to consist of low sunken 
lands, but there must doubtless be a large portion of 
a superior quality. Immediately below the village 
of Natchitoches, the river again separates into three 
branches, the middle one being the principal. The 
eastern is called Fausse riviere, (False river) and is 
connected with several lakes to theN. E. of it. The 
westei'n branch is called the river of the Post, and has 
on its S. W. side a number of lakes formed pai-tly by 
its own effluent waters, and those of the upland 
streams: the lake a' Case is the largest of these.-^ 
Between this and the middle branch, several islandsf 
are formed by the connecting bayous. In the times 
of high water there is but little difference in the size 
of these three branches ; the river of the Post has 

* This is more or less the case with all the lakes in the vicinity 
of Ked river. The streams fronvtlie high, or primitive gTOund, are 
extremely well supplied with water. 

t Among-st Others the isle of tke^atchez, where that unfortv- 
paie people made theix* lust stand. 

Bb2 



:j94. views op LOUISIANA. 

been preferred on account of the distance being 
shorter, but the middle branch is much the clearest, 
though nothing more than a deep gut or bayou, 
twenty or thirty yards in width, scarcely sufficient 
for a long barge to tui'n round. The principal set- 
tlement of Natchitoches, is situated upon it, and 
forms an almost continued village for forty or fifty 
miles. The water never rises so as to render it ne- 
cessary to add to the natural banks. These brandi- 
es re-unite fifteen or twenty miles above the Rapids, 
The Red river receives from, the N. E. side lake 
Yac, which discharges itself by the rivers Rara and 
Marten. From the re-union of these branches, the 
rivei' pursues a tolerably well defined course to the 
Mississippi, losing its waters by only two or three 
ba} ous, and not forming any considerable lakes. — 
Bayou Boeuf, which is formed partly by a large 
stream from the upland, and partly from the w aters 
of Red river, may be regarded as the boundary of 
the Red river alluvion in that quarter. 

In casting the eye over the map, it will be seen 
that a triangle is formed, of which the bayou Boeuf 
is the base, and Red river and the Mississippi the 
two sides. It is in this triangle that the largest 
body of low sunken lands, are to be found in the 
state, particularly in the angle of Mississippi and 
Red river, and round the curious island of Avoyelle. 
From marks on the trees, it appeared to me that the 
]and had been overflowed to the depth often feet. — 
The Avoyelle is a body of primitive ground, about 
thirty miles in circumference, the growth similar 
to that of West Florida, in the neighborhood of the 
Mississippi; the soil is not remarkably rich, but af- 
fords a handsome settlement. The Atchafalaya of^ 
Avoyelle, flows through the triangle, in a course pa«: 



BOOK ni. BOUNDARIES, he. 293 

rallel to the bayou Boeuf, and is without any settle- 
ment; the land low. The lands on the bayou 
Boeuf, particularly on the upper part of it, are 
amongst tlie best in the state, commonly of two 
miles in width, covered with impenetrable thickets of 
cane; the soil extremely rich, of a red color, simi- 
lar to that on the Atchafalaya of Red river. Of late 
years, several settlements have been formed in this 
bayou, aiid the lands were growing into high repute 
previous to the depreciation in the price of cotton. — 
The lands on the Atchafalaya of Red river, are of 
nearly the same quality, but do not possess the same 
depth.^ There are still but few settlers. Its na- 
vigation is interrupted by rafts and other obstruc- 
tions. 

The valley of Red river is susceptible of a very 
wealthy and extensive population ; with the excep- 
tion of the triangle before described, being but little 
subject to overflowing: the proportion of sunken 
ground, is scarcely equal to the part which might be 
cultivated, and tlie proportion altogether irreclaima- 
ble, is very small. The best cotton of the United 
States is produced here, and brings in market, ge- 
nerally, two cents more in the pound. Tobacco and 
indigo are also amongst the articles of culture. The 
principal settlements, are those of Natchitoches, 
bayou Rapide, bayou Robert, bayou Boeuf, and At- 
chafalaya. 

The greater part of the tract between the Atcha- 
falaya, bayou Plaquemine, and the Mississippi, is low 
and uninhabitable land, of which no use can be made 
in its present state. The settlements of Pointe Cou- 

* The grant of the United States, to the Marquis de la Fayette- 
has been cluefly located on tliis bviyau. 



296 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

pee, West Baton Rouge, and Plaqiiemine, form 
trifling exceptions. The route to the Attakapas and 
Opelousas, usually taken by boats, is through the 
bayou Plaquemine. 

The last and largest body of alluvion in the state, 
is enclosed by the bayou Plaquemine, Atchafalaya, 
a bayou which makes out from it, (and forms the 
grand lake, connected with the la d'eau Salec,) the 
sea, and the Mississippi. This tract is interspersed 
with a number of very large lakes, connected with 
the sea. Bayou la Fourche and Atchalafaya pass 
through it : the latter is lost in a variety of lakes 
and bayous before it enters the gulph. TJiis land 
is rapidly gaining from the sea ; the large lakes are 
shallow, and perceptibly filling up every year, by 
the sediment of the Mississippi. There is some 
land around them susceptible of being cultivated, 
but generally, tliere is no habitable land on this 
tract, except on the bayou la Fourche, and Missis- 
sippi. The bayou la Fourche is a beautiful natui'al 
canal, admitting of settlements on its banks for eigh- 
ty miles from where it issues from the Mississippi. 
When the Mississippi is high, it is about one hun- 
dred and fifty yards in width, its banks, which rare- 
ly overflow, are guarded by a slight levee of two 
feet high : *it is free from obstructions the whole way 
to the gulph, and there are said to be sixteen feet of 
water on tl)e bar. For the distance of sixty miles, 
a single horse miglit ('raw a large boat, so clean and 
even are its banks. In itiding along it, the idea of 
a magnificient artificial canal was continually oc- 
curring to my mind: art cannot surpass it. The lands 
are in many places a mile and an lisdf in depth on 
botli sides. It is supposed, that on this bayou, and 
on others connected with it, there is twice as much 



BOOK m. BOUNDARIES, &c. 297 

liabitable land, as there is from its entrance, on both 
sides of the Mississippi, to New Orleans. For near- 
ly tliirty miles down, on each side, there ap])cars a 
continued village, and it is tolerably well settled for 
thirty miles further. 

3. Mtakaims and Opelousas. 

Opelousas is separated from the Attakapas by 
bayou Fusillier, which connects the Teche with the 
Vej'million, and is a natural canal, which might 
with ease be rendered navigable. On the S, W. 
side of the Vermillion it is separated by the Caran- 
cro, a stream which takes its rise in tlie prairies, 
and falls into tlie Vermillion. The traveller, on 
approaching the Teche from tlie Vermillion, easily 
discerns where the high primitive ground gi'adu- 
ally descends into the lower prairies of the Attaka- 
pas. These, I have already observed, are covered 
with a coarser vegetation, and are better wooded 
than those of the Opelousas, but there is a much 
greater portion of them waste, and subject to be 
drowned by rains, and are even sometimes inun- 
dated by the Teclie : the greater part is probably 
alluvion, at least for a mile or two on the S. W. side, 
and the whole on the other. The soil is extremely 
rich, though of a texture somewhat too close, liable 
to bake and become hard and stiff. Cotton is at 
present the principal culture; tlie sugar-cane has 
been found to succeed as well if not better than on 
the Mississippi. A number of planters, of late, are 
turning their attention to it. Several cotton planters 
of the Mississippi territory, have sold their planta- 
tions, and commenced establishments on the Teche. 
On lake Tasse there is a sugar establishment of 



298 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

some years standing, but this is the only one which 
has yet been completed. 

The Vermillion and the Teche are the principal 
riA ers of the Attakapas, neither of tlieni formed by 
the effluen waters of other rivers, but rising in the 
high prairies of the Ojielousas; the Vermillion in 
the neighborhood of the Opelousas church, and the 
Teche considerably north of it. Their general 
courses are nearly the same to the lake Tasse, where 
the Teche winds somewhat east of south. Their 
channels are deep, the waters of a dark color, and 
not reckoricd very good for use. They are con- 
nected by streams from the lake Tasse. Schooners 
and light vessels may ascend in both as far as this 
place, from the Vermillion bay, or Berwick's bay, 
into which these rivers are discharged. The Teche 
is a much larger and longer river than the other, 
being upwards of two hundred miles in length. The 
Tasse is a beautiful lake of clear water, about ten 
miles in circumference : ihere are plantations around 
it, on the eastern side, the other is eiatirely bare of 
wood. 

The principal settlements of the Attakapas are on 
each side of the Teche (though mostly on the west- 
ern,) and on the Vermillion. Besidee the culture 
of cotton, maize, &c. they have the advantage of 
those extensive natural meadows to support their 
herds ; from the mildness of the climate, little or no 
trouble is requisite to keep them. The inhabitants 
of the Attakapas arc generally wealthy, and live as 
luxuriously as the planters of the Mississippi. It is 
not considered healthy, perhaps, less so than on 
the coast of the Mississippi. On the whole, it is 
destined to become one of the richest districts of 
Louisiana. 



BOOK m. BOUNDARIES, &c. 299 

The immense tract of open plains or meadows, 
which constitutes the Opehiusas, boasts of advan- 
ta;"[>*es superior to ail the riclics of tlie Teche or the 
Mississippi, in tlie salubrity of its air and the beauty 
of its surface. Free from stagnant waters, with the 
exception of a few ponds in the pi*airies, the atmos- 
phere is not poisoned by noxious vapours, and open 
to the breezes from the gulph, it enjoys a cool and 
refreshing tem])ej*ature, wfiile the rest of the state is 
suffering from tlie eifects of a close and sulti^ air. — 
Without fear of contradiction, I may pronounce 
the Opt'lousas to be by far the most healthy part of 
tlie state. Nothing can be more beautiful and cheer- 
ing to the traveller, than tlie prospects and views 
which this country affoi-ds, as he passes from one pi-ai- 
rie into another, for they are separated by some si team- 
let fringed with wood, and each prairie is known by 
a particular name. There is nothing wild or savage, 
yet the scenery is not tame or motonous ; there is a 
sufficient variety and succession of those scenes, 
whicli sooth the mind, or inspire with lively and 
pleasing emotions. I passed through them last 
May, w hen they appeared to great advantage. Tlie 
distance of my Journey was forgotten while I gazed 
with delight upon tlie waving surface of these mea- 
dows, now covered with deep green, and of extent, 
in some places bounded only by the horizon, in 
others by skii-ts of wood, dimly appearing as in smne 
distant isle of the sea; while a thousand brilliant 
and <)doriferous flowers shed their perfume upon 
the air. The plantations scattered along the water 
courses on tlie outside of the fringe of wood, the vast 
herds of cattle roaming at random over the plains, 
the galloping herdsmen, and the solitary traveller, 
ai'e tlie objects which give life to the pleasing picture^ 



300 VIEWS OFLOtJISIANA. 

The settlements are entirely on the watercourses, 
which chequer this plain ; settlers turn tlieir atten- 
tion principally to grazing- ; cotton is however cul- 
tivated to advantage. The number of cattle com- 
posing the herds which some of the wealthier pos- 
sess, would in other paj'ts of the United States, be 
considered incredible; there are several who mark 
from one to two thousand calves every year. The 
cattle driven to New Orleans for sale, bring from fif- 
teen to twenty dollars the head. 

The Mentou is as large as the Teche, and falls 
into the gulph considej'ably the S, W. of it, as also 
does the Carcasou : on both these rivers there are 
said to be considerable bodies of habitable land. The 
Sabine, which constitutes the boundary in that quar- 
ter, is a very considerable i*tver, but is not at pre- 
sent susceptible of navigation, on account of ob- 
structions in its course. The lands immediately in 
its neighboi'hood are good. 

The route to the Opelousas and to the Attakapas, is 
either by Plaquemine, as before mentioned, or by 
the ferry of la Fourche. This is also the route in 
time of high water, to Rajjide, or Natchitoches, 
for persons going by land. I rode along the 
bayou la Fourche about twenty-five miles, then 
crossed over to the out-let of a small bayou, fifteen or 
twenty feet wide, called the canal, from its having 
been somewhat improved by labor, and forming a 
convenient communication with the lakes, and the 
Teche; following this bayou or canal about iifteen 
miles, I came to the ferry kept by a German, who 
has the exclusive riglit fiom the state, on condition 
of keeping suitable accommodations. Here I em- 
barked, in the evening, on a platform erected on 
two large canoes, with a railing in the middle, for 



BOOK m. BOUXDARIES, &c. SH 

the purpose of confining our horses, and after pas- 
sing through lake Platte, and several otlier lakes 
and bayous, landed about three o'clock next morning, 
two miles up the Teche. The distancejtwenty -three 
miles. The night being pleasant, and no wind 
stirring, I had an agreeable passage. The lakes 
are not more than three or four miles in width, but 
the narrow bayous connecting them are so numerous, 
that it requires considerable experience to find the 
way. On my return I was less fortunate ; I found at 
the ferry several persons who had been waiting for 
three days, the wind rendering it useless to attempt 
to cross ; their patience was by tliis time totally ex- 
hausted, and in the evening, it was determined to 
start, though the wind had abated but little of it» 
violence. With some difficulty we reached Ber 
wick's bay. The wind here became too strong, and 
Ave were compelled to put to shore on a little point 
of land overgrown with palmettoes,* where we found 
two or three fishermen stretched before a little fire. 
The tide was up, the bank of the lake not more than 
two feet high. These lakes are enveloped in the 
most gloomy forests of oak, cypress and ash, upon 
whose boughs the long moss,f or Spanish beard, is 
suspended in enormous masses, almost shutting out 
the liglit from these dreary spots, while underneath, 
there is an impenetrable thicket of underwood, and 

* A plant very common in the lower part of Louisiana — the 
leaves so disposed as to bear a strong resemblance to a very large 
fan. It grows upon the more elevated spots of ground. 

f I have often puzzled myself to find out some known object to 
which the appearance of this curious production might be com- 
pared. Chateaubriand compares them to enormous ghosts ! The 
best I can think of, is to the shattered sails of a ship, after a storm., 
the canvass luuiging down in a thousand ragged slu'eds* 

C C 



230 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

smaller trees and vines. About 12 o'clock, the 
wind having somewhat abated, we struck across the 
bay, but before we could reach bayou Long, the ap- 
proach of a storm, which every moment threatened 
to burst upon us, compelled us to put into one of the 
first bayous wliich communicate with lake Platte — 
We had scarcely reached the entrance, before it be- 
gan to pour down torrents of rain accompanied by 
incessant peals of thunder. Without the slightest 
shelter except our great coats, we found our situa- 
tion extremely uncomfortable. About day light we 
continued our voyage, opposed by wind and current, 
the rain continuing but with little intermission until 
we arrived on tlie other side, which was not until 
four in the evening, almost exhausted, having been 
compelled to stand up the greater part of the time, 
and chilled to the very heart. Here the attention 
and kindness of the good people, soon made us for- 
get what we had endured, or remembered only to 
felicitate ourselves on its having passed. These ac- 
cidents do not frequently occur. 

4. Settlements of La Fourche — Coast of the Missis- 
sippi — Fausse riviere. 

The settlers of La Fourche, are chielfly what the 
French call petits habitants^ small planters, and are 
therefore, more numerous than on the coast, for it 
requires many cottages to make one chateau. There 
arc, however, some extensive establishments.— 
Lands have risen here in price, since they have 
giH)wn in demand for sugar plantations, and many 
of the petits habitants bought out. The settlers from 
the Canal, up t.) the mouth of the Fourche, are prin- 
cipally of Spanish origin, and speak but little 



BOOK. m. BOUNDARIES, &c. 303 

French. They are a poor and miserable popula- 
tion ; seem lazy and careless, and are destitute of 
those little comforts, and that neatness, which are 
found in the cottage of the poorest French Creole, 
The most pleasant part of Louisiana, when we 
take into consideration the comforts and conve- 
niences of life, is that which is called the coast, and 
proves to us what may he done by the art and indus- 
try of man, even in those parts whicli nature has left 
rude and unsigiitly. It affords one of the strongest 
arguments in favor of civilization, and ought to go 
far in reconciling the philanthropic mind to the cir- 
cumstance of the present inhabitants, having shoved 
off the pitiable, careless race, who first possessed it 
Would it be too much to say, that this improvement 
and cultivation of tlie face of nature, was the condi- 
tion on which the Creator gave to the human race 
the lordship of the eartii ! Even the garden of Eden 
required the fostering care of Adam and his partner ; 

" On to their morning-'s rural work they haste, 
Among- sweet dews and flow'rs ; where any row 
Of fruit trees, over woody, reach'd too far 
Their pamper'd boughs," &c. 

The borders of the Mississippi, in their natural 
state, are far from being agreeable to tlie eye ; we 
see only gloomy forests, close thickets of underwood 
and reeds, putrescent trunks of trees, and tlie rag- 
ged banks heaped up with the sweepings of the up- 
per country. In lieu of these deformities, we gene- 
rally find clean, smooth banks, a stream unobstruct- 
ed by impediments, its encroachments resti'ained, 
and every where delightful i)lantations and dwel- 
lings. Tlie coast may be said to begin at Pointe 
Coupee. From this to La Fourche, two thirds of 
the banks arc perfectly cleared and higldy cultivat- 



S04> VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

tftl : from thence to New Orleans, distance of nearly 
one hundred miles, the settlements continue without 
interruption on hoth sides, and present the appear- 
ance of a continued village. 

I w^as enraptured with the magnificence of the 
^cene, as I floated down the majestic river in the 
month of December 1811. Nothing ever appeared 
to me more enchanting than the continued succes- 
sion of plantations laid off with regularity and taste; 
the various useful and ornamental trees, the fig, 
peccane, ever green oak, laurels, pine and weeping 
willow. The delightful groves of orange trees, 
i)ending under the weiglit of their golden fruit, to 
one, just from the dreary solitudes of the Missouri, 
or the rude wilds of Upper Louisiana, were objects 
indescribably pleasing. I could have believed that 
I was witnessing those paradisiacal scenes of which 
1 have sometimes dreamed ; but one or two reflec- 
tions which intruded themselves, unwelcome and 
unbidden guests, soon caused me to view the " fair 
profusion," with other sensations. The earth which 
bears these ornaments has been moistened by the 
tears of hundreds who labor to support — 

" A haughty lordling's pride :" 

in the midst of these rich gifts which seem to invite 
to enjoyment and delight, there lurk poison, disease, 
and death ! Alas ! how much is the poor wanderer 
deceived, whose thouglits are bent on discovering 
on this earth, some spot, possessing in a higher de- 
gree than any other, the streams of happiness, and 
of pleasure unalloyed ! a nearer approach dispels 
what the distant prospect had promised, and he is^ 
at length taught by experience, that the gifts of hea- 
ven are equally dispensed, at least that it is not in 
this world he is to expect a paradise. 



BOOK m. BOUNDARIES, &c. 205 

The dwellings on the coast are generally frame, 
of one story in height, hut there are many construct- 
ed with tolerahle elegance. The sugar houses, on 
either side, at intervals considerably distant, were 
easily distinguished, by the vast columns of smoke 
which they sent up into the air. Within thii-ty or 
foi'ty miles of the city there are but few of the petits 
habitants, the lands being engrossed hy the wealthy 
planters : this is continually progressing upwards 
and the disproportion of the whites to the blacks, of 
course increasing. Below the place, where the in- 
surrection commenced in 1811, to the city, the dis- 
tance of thirty miles, there is scarcely one white per- 
son to twenty blacks. When the lands on the coast 
shall be piincipally occupied by the lai'ger planters, 
which will be the case at no distant period, it will be 
found absolutely necessary to station an armed forc« 
at intei-vals, as far up as Pointe Coupee. 

The settlements of Fausse riviere, on the old bed of 
the river, behind Pointe Coupee, is considered one of 
the wealthiest in the state. In high water, Fausse ri- 
ver, is filled from the Mississippi, and is as wide as 
that river; after the flood subsides, the water in this 
place stagnates, and the settlement is rendered un- 
healthy. The banks are high, and there is greater 
safety from inundation and the breaking of the levee 
than on the Mississippi. 

I here subjoin two statistical tables, from the val- 
uable work of Mr. Darby, which will complete thi» 
general outline of the state of LouisianJt 



6 € 



•206 



VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 









s 


c>% 


PARISHES. 






S. Mil 


CO 5 


Plaquemines, 


- 


- 


1,500 


1,549 


Orleans, 


- 


- 


1,300 


24,552 


St. Bernard, 


. 


- 


400 


1,020 


St. Charles, 


. 


- 


300 


3,291 


St. Jean Baptiste, 


- 


- 


150 


2,990 


St. James, - 


. 


- 


170 


3,955 


Ascension, 


. 


. 


350 


2,219 


Assumption, 


• 


- 


500 


2,472 


Interior of La Fourclie, 


- 


2,500 


1,995 


Iberville, 


. 


. 


350 


2,679 


West Baton Rouge, 


. 


- 


850 


1,463 


Point Coupee, 


- 


- 


600 


4,539 


St. Mary's and St. Martins 
Attacapas, 


■} 


5,100 


7,369 


St. Landre Opelousas, 


. 




7,600 


5,048 


Natchitoches, 


. 


. 


10,600 


2,870 


Ouachitta, - 


. 


- 


4,000 


1,077 


Rapides, 


- 


- 


2,300 


2,300 


Ocachoola, 


. 


. 


2,000 


1,164 


Concordia, 


m 


- 


2,100 


2,875 


Avoyelles, 


- 


- 


700 


1,109 


New Feliciana, - 


m 


• 


1,050-^ 




East Baton Rouge, 
St. Helena, 


- 


- 


500 1 
1,300 f 


10,000 


St. Tammany, 


-. 


- 


2,000j 





BOOK III. 



BOUNDARIES, &c. 



307 



S- 65 ?? a iHj 



-^«§-? 

J5 '^ P O "-►j 

F !=^ S —52. 

»D O r+ p O 

S o ? ® i£. 

,^ "^ H^ P P 

0^0-3 O- 
►3 O p. j2^ P 



f 



c «. g. 3 p- 

E 3 o fi-e: 

fe ^ ^ ^ 

^ ^ *^3 

f 2. CO ^ 

J?" S p 



" o 



O. ft) 



CD w f^ oa 
«" 3* O "• 
O^g.3 *^. 



Sugar, 

Rice, 

Cotton, 

Indigo, 

Tobacco, 


STAPLE. 


150,000 lbs. 

700 6/s. 

60,000 bis. 

7,000 /6s. 

60,000 lbs. 


> 
o 


$ .08 2?er /ft. 

.15 per lb. 

1. ;?er /6. 

10. ;?. cwf. 


• 


"w 1d 1d 1o "o 
M o o o o 
Ol p p p p 


52J 


OS 

I-* H- H- bO 

O •*>' 00 00 4i. 
--1 O O vfi. o 


•puuq i|OBa uioa 
9nii9A9j i^nuuy 


10 •-* >-» 
Oi O Cji 

o o o 


^ 
« 

§ 

<» 


250,000 

250,000 

2,400,000 

2,000,000 

1,500,000 


•a|di3;s qoBa o:^ 

Ul S9J0B JO '0^ 






CHAP. 11. 

The Levees f or embankments of the Mssissippii 

IT will perhaps, be said, that, in some respects^ 
I have represented tliis country in too favorable 
a light; that I have endeavored to represent the diffi- 
culties, which oppose themselves to its improvement, 
as less considerable than they really are. Certain- 
ly those difficulties are many and great, and when 
contemplated without reflecting on what is in the 
power of a man to effect^ they appear insurmounta- 
ble : but when we examine what he has done in 
other parts of the world, it must be acknowledged 
that few impossibilities present themselves in the 
improvement of this country. Time, and a more nu- 
merous population, are doubtless requisite, but the 
advantages which offer themselves, will render that 
improvement, sooner or later, not the less certain. 
Tlie soil of Louisiana, on the borders of the great 
river, does not yield in point of fertility to any in 
the world ; its climate, during nine months of the 
year, is delightful, and bad the remainder, from the 
present irreclaimed state of a great poi-tion of its 
surface : it has great advantages in possessing th« 
delta of the great river, which will become the depo- 
sitory of vast riches, while its produce constitutes 
staples of greater value than that of almost any 
other of the United States, These consideratioiw 



BOOK m. THE LEVEES, ike. 309 

Avill continue to raise tlie lands of Louisiana to their 
highest price, sooner tlian in other sections of tlie 
union, where the productions are nearly the same, 
and not of so great a value in commerce, and where 
the population will not so soon resoi't to the various 
arts of improving, which have heen adopted in the 
populous countries of Eui-ope. These arts will soon 
have to be resorted to hy Louisiana, in order to se- 
cure, or extend its valuable cultures. Many years, 
it is true, in spite of the greatest industry, perse- 
verance and ingenuity, must still pass away before 
we can become sufficiently acquainted with the 
country, and learn the best and most effectual modes 
of reducing it to subjection ; this' can only be the 
result of long experience and observation. The ob- 
servations of experience must be moulded into a 
science; the inventions and arts of the old world, 
for similar purposes, must be put in requisition, and 
new ones formed, adapted to the local peculiarities. 
But it is the gift of man, and tlie commandment of 
his Creator, to subdue and govern the earth ; and 
wlien we have seen him, not only place it under sub- 
jection, but even raise for himself a dominion out of 
the elements of storms, where shall we set bounds to 
his labors and ingenuity ? 

The most considerable work of art, yet construct- 
ed for the purpose of rendering tliis country habita- 
ble, is the embarkment of the river, usually called 
the levee. We should be much deceived, if we were 
to form an idea of this work from the dykes of Hol- 
land, or the embankments of the Nile. The levee 
is commonly constructed in the following manner, 
and is indeed but a trifling work, considering the 
imjiortance of its object: — At a distance, seldom ex- 
ceeding thirty or forty yards from the natural bank, 



.310 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

a mound of earth is raised about five feet high, and 
twelve at the base, with a sufficient width at the top 
for a foot path; in general, resembling very much 
the embankments on the Delaware, erected to keep 
out the tide from the marshes on its borders. The 
size varies considerably; in some places, particu- 
larly on the points, where tlie land is higher, and 
against which the current of the river does not strike 
with violence, the levees are very trifling; but in 
bends, where the current acts with greater force, it 
is found necessary to oppose a more considerable 
mound; on some of the bends, where the force of the 
current is very great, the embankment is a work of 
C(msiderable consequence. The levee of M' Carty's, 
a few miles above New-Orleans, is almost fifteen 
feet high, by thirty at the base, and six feet at the 
top ; this is the most considerable on the river, ex- 
cepting that immediately in front of the city. As 
there is no stone to be had, the only material is a soft 
clay, with cypress staves placed on the outside, that 
is, next the river, and the whole covered with earth 
and sodded. On the inside a ditch is made, for the 
purpose of receiving and carrying off the water, 
which sweeps through the embankment in tlie season 
of the floods. The road lies between the ditch and 
fences, and is crossed at intervals of half a mile, hy 
drains from the ditch just mentioned, and covered 
like the sewers of a city ; these drains pass through 
the fields, and carry the water to the swamps. A 
vast quantity of water is continually oozing through 
the porous embankments, and in many places gushes 
through holes made by crawfish, which often in- 
crease so rapidly as to cause a breech in the levee. 
It requires several years for the levee to become 
solid and firm; previous to this, it is liable to be in- 



BOOK III. THE LEVEE9(, &c. 811 

jured by rains. The embankment runs in a very ir- 
regular line ; in many places it changes its direction 
every twenty or thirty yards, for its zigzag course 
is not only suited to the sinuosities of the river, but 
also to its smaller indentations, for being too slight 
a work to compel the river to hold a regular course, 
it is obliged to yield to its caprices : and as the river 
encroaclies or recedes, another levee is constructed 
nea er the river or behind the first; from which cir- 
cumstance, there are in many places what are called 
double levees. 

A person standing inside of the levee, during the 
flood, seems to be considerably below the surface of 
the \> ater, or as some have expressed it, '* the wa- 
ter appeal's to roll over his head." There is, how- 
ever, something of a deception in this ; for here are 
in few places more than two or three feet of water 
against the levee, as the ground between it and the 
river is much higlier than on the inside ; this may be 
accounted for, from the (juantity of sediment there 
deposited, and the circumstance of the road hav- 
ing been worn down by constant use. 

Beside the mode of making the levee, of which we 
have spoken, there are others, but which are scarcely 
necessary to be described ; the diversity arises from 
the different nature of the grounds, and the degree of 
resistance to be opposed to the current. What is 
considered a good levee, may in most places be made 
for five hundred to a thousand dollars per mile; but 
in many it would cost several thousands. Every in- 
dividual is required to keep up the levee in front of 
his own land, and before the season of high water 
it is inspected by commissioners appointed for the 
purpose, in each parish, and if found insufficient it 
is made as his expense. But this is by no means 



\312 VIEWS ep LOUISIANA. 

adequate to ensure safety ; for during the continu- 
ance of the floods, the levees demand the most vi- 
gilant attention ; they must be continually watched, 
and all hands are often drawn from the fields to 
guard them for whole days and nights. The action 
of the current discovers defective pai-ts, before un- 
observed ; here earth must be added and slabs placed, 
to prevent it from crumbling in ; and often, after the 
rains, which prevail at this season, it becomes spongy 
and loose in its texture, and the holes made by craw- 
fish at this time are particularly to be di-eaded. It 
not unfrequently happens, that from the want of 
strength, or from the negligence of some individual, 
both he and his neighbours are ruined. 

It has often been a matter of surprise to me that 
works upon which so much depend, should be con- 
structed in a manner so rude and trifling. A few 
moments are suflicient to destroy the labor and in- 
dustry of twenty years. It was remarked that the 
steam boat in high water, under way, might with 
ease pass over the levee ! I was never more struck 
with the infant state of improvements in this coun- 
try, and the want of public spirit, than in viewing 
tlie work upon which the Louisianian depends for the 
security of his all: a prodigious volume of water 
rolling over his head, prevented only by a slight 
mound of earth from overwhelming him and all he 
possesses. But he does not sleep soundly. In 1811,* 
in the season of high water, for six weeks the coast 
presented a scene of continual anxiety and apprehen- 
sion ; the hands withdrawn from the fields, and kept 



* This was still more the case in the year 1813, the water rose 
higher than in 1811, by six or eight inches, and had liie planters 
not been somewhat prepared by the former season, they musthav 
fceen totally destroyed. 






JiJOOK in. THE LEVEES, &c, 313 

watcliing day and niglit, and adding to their breast- 
work as tlie river rose. If the expense, labour, loss 
of time, and the destruction of property, were esti- 
mated and formed into a general fund, it would have 
been sufficient to have ei'ected a work capable of 
withstanding the highest flood, and to have rendered 
them perfectly secure for tlie future. If in the sea- 
vson of high water the least storm of wind were to 
arise, there are scarcely any of the present levees 
which would not give way and the whole country be 
laid under water. But until the season comes thd 
danger is not feared, and notliing is done until it is 
too late ; those who escape resolve to be prepared 
for the next year, but this is soon forgotten. Last 
year (1812) the water rose mucli less than in ordi- 
nai'y years, and scarcely passed over the banks, yet 
at this time, a higli wind, which continued more 
than a day, made sevei*al breaches in the levee, do- 
ing much injury to tlie plantations. Had this storm 
occurred at the same season the year before, the 
whole country would ha\ e been placed under water. 
A gentleman informed me that lie witnessed a storm 
that season, but which lasted only fifteen minutes ; 
yet the effects which it threatened seemed to produce 
an universal panic ; man, woman, and child, invo- 
luntarily ran to the levee as it were to support it 
with their hands. 

The Mississippi in its natural state, at least for 
one hundred and fifty miles above New Orleans, 
overflows its banks, communihus annis, from two to 
three feet, and the descent to the swamps is very ra- 
pid, perhaps not less than four feet a mile. Even in 
this state, it must flow over its banks with great ve- 
locity, but the artificial embankments, by enclosing 
its waters, cause them to rise from two to three feet 
Bd 



314 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

hi,i^hcr. The natural fall of the river itself, scarcely 
exceeds one foot per mile : we may now easily con- 
ceive the velocity of a sheet of water whose current 
is thus suddenly increased to five or six feet per mile. 
It rushes from the river with indescribahle impetuo- 
sity, with the noise like the roaring; of a cataract, 
boiling, and foaming, and tearing every thing be- 
fore it. To one who has not seen this country it is 
almost impossible to convey any idea of the terrors 
excited by a crevasse or breaking of the levee. Like 
the breaking out of fire in a town, where no one 
knows when his own dwelling may be assailed, it 
excites universal consternation ; every employment 
is abandoned for miles above and below, and all has- 
ten to the spot, wliere every exertion is made day 
and night to stop the breacli, which is sometimes 
successful, but more frequently, the hostile element 
is suffered to take its course. The consequences are, 
the destruction of the crop, the buildings, and some- 
times the land itself is much injured where the cur- 
rent rushes over, carrying away the soil, or leaving 
numerous logs and trees drawn into the voi'tex as 
they floated down the river ; these must be destroyed 
before the land can again be cultivated. The effects 
of a breach of the levee are even more desolating 
than those of fire. 

There are various modes of stopping a crevasse, 
the most common is the following : they begin on 
each side of the crevasse, to drive double rows of 
piles carefully yielding to the current so as to 
meet less resistance, until they unite, and thus form 
a semicircle like a fish basket ; in the next place the 
piles are interwoven with small branches, or slabs 
placed lengthwise between them, branches of trees 
are then placed behind the piles, and some heavier 



BOOK III. THE LEVEES, Sec. 315 

materials, logs, &:c. against them : if they can suc- 
ceed this far, earth is then thrown upon the whole, 
and thus a new levee formed. As a preventive, 
wliere the levee appears to be about giving away, 
coffer dams are erected. 

Though not ambitious of the reputation of a pro- 
jectoi*, 1 cannot refrain from expressing tlie follow- 
ing notions on the mode wiach ouglit to be pursued. 
It strikes me that this, as is tlie case with every 
great public work in the United States, should be 
resigned to a company organized for the purpose, 
who might draw a benefit from the undertaking, 
and at the same time be responsible to the individual 
for the injury wiiich he sustains. When we see the 
enormous expense in constructing turnpikes for the 
purpose of facilitating the transportation of goods 
and for travelling, it would be no great exertion of 
public spirit, for people to go to the same expense in 
securing not only those objects, but their all. Two 
hundred thousand dollars, the value of one planta- 
tion, would make the levee twenty feet wide at the 
base, and ten feet at the top from New^ Orleans, on 
the east side, to Baton Rouge; the expenses then 
would not be greater than in keeping a turnpike 
road in repair. The travelling up and down the 
coast is as great as on any of our turnpikes, and the 
tolls would yield as much. There is no planter on 
the coast who would not pay five dollars per acre 
front per annum, to be exempt from the labour of 
keeping up his levee, and for the security he would 
gain from one made on such a scale. It is a fact, 
there is not a planter on the Mississippi, whose 
plantation might not be ruined in half an hour, and 
pei'haps less time by some villain, wicked enough to 
do it : lie would only have to make a breach in the 



516 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

h'vce, which the current would soon widen suffi- 
ciently for his purpose. Centinels durin^s; the hi,J^h- 
est stage of water, are continually walking on the 
levees, as well to prevent such attempts, as to watch 
any inroads of the water. 

It would be adviseable to leave at intervals, open- 
ings in the levee, properly secujed on each side, 
like the sluices of the saw mills, in order to let off 
the water of the river. An immense quantity es- 
capes through the present levees. In proportion as 
the levees extend upwards, and those below become 
properly secured, so as to prevent much of the wa- 
ter from escaping, they must be raised. A vast body 
of water at the present time passes off in those pla- 
ces, where there are no embankments ; if this were 
kept in, the levees would every where require to be 
several feet higher. Artificial drains at proper dis- 
tances might in a great measure obviate this diffi- 
culty. But not having leisure for these specula- 
tions, I leave them to others, who are otherwise in- 
terested, than as general well-wishers for the pros- 
perity of the country. 



[The following is a letter addressed to the editor of 
the Weekly Register, rvhile it was suj^iosed that 
J\''ew Orleans was entirely ruined hy the inundation 
ef last spring,] 

Sir, 
An extract has appeared in your paper, from a 
irolume which I published some years ago, entitled. 



BOOK in. THE LEVEES, &c. 317 

*' Views of Louisiana,''^ The situation of that inte- 
i^\sting city, New-Orleans, the future emporium of 
the west, will excuse me for puhlishing, through 
your paper, some further particulars respecting the 
embankments of the Mississippi. I have seen in the 
gazettes, and have heard in convei'sation, very con- 
siderable exaggerations, both of the injury sustained 
by that city, and of the disadvantages to which the 
people inhabituig the banks of the Mississippi must 
always be subject. The temporary sufferings of the 
inhabitants of New Orleans, and its vicinity, will un- 
questionably be very great. The poorer class who 
inhabit the back streets, as well as those who reside 
in the suburbs, will suffer beyond any thing we can 
well conceive. The beautiful gardens, on the road 
to the bayou St. John, will be seriously injured, and 
liundreds of honest industrious people, who raise ve- 
getables for the mai'ket, will be ruined. These mis- 
fortunes, however, the city of New Orleans might in 
a few years repair, but she cannot so easily change 
the character which she will acquire abroad, of be- 
ing unavoidably subject to the recurrence of so 
dreadful a calamity. It is this which will endanger 
her ])rosperity, much more than the floods of the ri- 
ver : and it is with a view of encountering the pub^ 
lie opinion, an this subject, that I take the liberty of 
coming forward to suggest a few ideas, the result of 
my observations while in that country. 

I will premise, however, that with respect to any 
•unusual sickness being caused by the inundation, I 
do not thi»:k there is much to apprehend; the sickly 
.season does not commence until the Mississippi has 
retired within its banks, and long before this time^ 
the water which found its way through the crevasse, 
■will sink, evaporate, or flow to the swamps ; sl few 
D d2 



518 VIEWS or LOUISIANA. 

days being sufficient for this purpose. The principal 
cause of unhcalthiness in Louisiana, is the quantity 
of slime left on the banks of the river, tlie stagnant 
waters between the double levees, and the miasma of 
the swamps ; therefore, to assign such important ef- 
fects to so slight a cause, as that of a few^ hundred 
acres of land, being covered for a time with fresh 
water, might almost appear absurd. I do not pretend 
that there is nothing to apprehend ; great care must 
be taken when the river begins to subside, that the 
water be drained off before it can stagnate, and that 
the animal and vegetable exuviae left around the city, 
be destroyed before the action of the sun can render 
it putrid. All this is of so little consequence, com- 
pared to the permanent causes of decease in Louisi- 
ana, that I do not apprehend from it any thing ex- 
traordinary. There is also a favourable circum- 
stance, which will tend to lessen the danger; it is 
observed as one of those providential dispensations 
which allcAiate human calamities, that the moment 
the Mississippi begins to subside, there are daily 
showers, which wash the slime from the banks, 
freshen the air, and preserve the waters left by the 
river in a state of purity, until the greater part is 
evaporated or drained : and, as I have ali^eady ob- 
served, the city and its environs will be entirely dry, 
before the existence of that state of the atmosphere, 
in which a general tendency to bilious fevers may be 
said to prevail. Thus much, as to the extent of the 
present and probable suffering to which the city of 
New Orleans has been unhappily exposed. 

As to any permanent injury, that must resolve it- 
self into the simple question, whether the artificial 
banks of the Mississippi can be so secured as to pre- 
vent a recurrence of the calamity in Aitiu'e ? Of this 



BOOK m. THE LEVEES, 8cc. 319 

I never had the least doubt. It has only been a mat- 
ter of astonishment to me, that so little should Iiave 
been done towards an object so im])ortant ; I could 
only account for it from that total want of public 
sjnrit which is observed in all colonies ; it was rot 
until after we had gained our independence, that wc 
bethought ourselves of building noble bridges, of 
making vast turnpike roads, of digging canals and 
effecting other national woi'ks ; and surely it is not 
likely that such a government as that of Spain, would 
encourage public spirit in her colonies ! The closing 
scene of the last war, in which Louisiana covered 
herself with glory, has produced a total change in 
the character of the people, wlio begin to entertain a 
just pride of country, and public spirit will soon ma- 
nifest itself in united efforts, for their safety and 
prosperity. That narrow feeling, which cares noth- 
ing for the suffering of others, provided self is safe, 
will soon, I trust, disappear forever. The misfor- 
tune of New Orleans will result in a benefit to her 
and to the state. An appeal to the senses, and to 
our dearest interests, is bettei* attended to, than an 
appeal to the understanding. The eyes of the in- 
habitants, will soon be opened, and they will resolve 
to escape from that habitual security, fraught with 
so much evil, in which they have heretofore repos- 
ed ; something will now be done in earnest, which 
will not only render the banks of the river safe 
against the floods, but even preserve the state from 
the visitations of disease. 

The first step, would be to open the larger natural 
sluices, such as the Atchafalaya, which is now al- 
most closed up, and which has been the principal 
cause of the great rise in the waters for some years 
past 5 the next, will be to make a sufficient number 



520 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA, 

-of artificial sluices, so as to aiford outlets at short in- 
tervals ; tliere will then be less occasion for augment- 
ing the embankments, but this should, nevertheless, 
be attended to, as the chief dependence for security. 
Here I must repeat, that nothing is more practicable 
than the erection of complete and safe embankments, 
these works are yet in their rudest state here, and 
they afford ample proof of the facility with which 
those of sufficient strength may be accomplished. 
There is no need of immense dykes or mounds like 
.4hose of Holland ; even with the slender levees which 
at present exist, Louisiana can never suffer so much 
as that country has experienced, on several occa- 
sions, within a few years past. We hear of two 
hundred villages being overflowed, and thousands 
perishing ; tliis is an extent of calamity that can 
never happen on the Mississippi, which although, 
one of the mightiest and most magnificent rivers in 
the woiid, is one of the most gentle and easily re- 
strained. Like the elephant, it may be guided by a 
thread. The annual flood of the river, bears no re- 
semblance to the sudden, violent and irregular swel- 
lings of the Rlune or the Elb ; it rises slowly and 
gradually, and so regularly, that in Lower Louisia- 
na it seldom varies more than a few inches. There 
is no danger from those sudden and extraordinary 
freshes, which unexpectedly pass over the banks 
"With irresistible violence. This mighty river can be 
more easily restraiiied within its banks, than some 
petty sti'eams which at certain seasons, scarcely 
contain a sufticiency of water to navigate a canoe. 
In most places, tlie pi-esent levees, though slight, 
.will answer all the purposes required. In order to 
explain, it will be necessary to give some little de- 
scription of the river. It is remai'kable for its mi- 



BOOK III. THE LEVEES, &c. 321 

mcrous sinuosities: every few miles it clianges its 
course ; forming numerous points and bends : it may 
be easily imagined, tliat tlie force of tlie current, in 
the points and in the bends, is very different. The 
whole force of the current usually falls in tlie middle 
of the bend, washes the bank steej), and often un- 
dermining it, causes considerable portions of the 
earth to tumble in, particularly above Natchez ; for 
as we ap])roach the lower parts of the river, and for 
some distance above New Orleans, it is enclosed by 
a very stiff" and tenacious clay, which resists in a 
great measure the action of the water. It is in those 
bends that tlie bursting of the levee always take 
place; this I think can be remedied by the simple 
j)recaution of having double levees : the second at 
the distance of twenty or thirty yards from the first. 
Instead of this, we see in many places, the levee on 
the very brink of the river, and continually crum- 
bling into the water. The moment the current ap- 
proaches the first levee, there ought to be another 
thrown up in the rear. At present, for miles 
along tlie river, there is nothing but this single slen- 
der mound, to resist the whole force of the current 
of this vast river ; a mound, which would not be 
considered sufficient to keep the tide out of the salt 
marshes of the Atlantic rivers. Round the points 
there is little or no current, and besides a hatture or 
sand bar usually stretches out from it, protecting it 
from undermining; here the levee does not require 
to be very strong ; I know many places, where the 
planter is perfectly secure with a levee of two or 
three feet high, and not more than five or six feet at 
the base. In stating these particulars, I only mean 
to shew, that, comi)aratively, nothing has yet been 
done to secure the banks of the river, and that if this 



322 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. 

work was properly imdertaken, it could, beyond all 
possible doubt, be carried into complete execution ; 
and that the inhabitants of this liver, would be as 
safe from inundation as those of any other in the 
United States : and that, with respect to New Or- 
leans, a calamity like the present may never occur 
ag;ain. 

I have examined the ground upon which the city 
of New Orleans is built, with some attention ; it is 
built round the bend for the sake of enjoying tlie 
advantage of the eddy and point, as a harbour? and on 
account of the greater vicinity to the bayou St. John, 
the harbour for vessels sailing in the lakes. The 
ground is, however, by no means the best ; the land 
in the point, just above it, being higher and more safe; 
the land at that place is probably at this moment, for 
the greater part, dry ; the water of the crevasse, at 
the bend, six miles above the city, rushes directly 
across towards that on which the city stands, leav- 
ing the point, on which there are some very valua- 
ble plantations, as it were, cut off from the main 
land. The place at which the water has broken 
through, has always been considered the most diffi- 
cult to protect on the whole river; formerly, it used 
to break here every year — but it was thought for 
some years past, to have been made perfectly se- 
cure ; and from all accounts, it appears that much 
of what has happened, is to be attributed to indo- 
lent security and blameable negligence. The city 
was formerly suiTounded by ramparts, so that no 
inundation could affect it ; but after the change of 
government, they were levelled, and a sufficient safe- 
guard was not provided at McCarthy's, the conse- 
quence of wluch that unhappy city now feels. 



BOOK III. THE LEVEES, &c. 323 

Should any thing I have here stated, tend to coun- 
teract the prevailing opinion of a permanent and ir- 
reparable injury to the city of New Orleans ; an 
opinion which miglit materially affect her future 
prosperity, I shall tliink myself peculiarly fortu- 
nate. The present site is, in many respects, an ad- 
mirable one ; except that of Baton Rouge, which is 
too high up the river, there is none to be compared 
with it on the lower Mississippi ; it is open on one 
side to the trade of the lakes, and the fine country on 
their borders, of West Florida and Mississippi ter- 
ritory, of the Mobile and its numei'ous waters, of 
Pensacola, &c. and on the other, it is the great de- 
pot of the western world. An immense city must 
rise on this spot, in spite of these partial calamities, 
for I am firmly of opinion, that although the present 
suffering will be immense, that it will ultimately 
prove a general benefit. It would be well worthy of 
our fellow citizens throughout the United States, to 
take this opportunity of manifesting their genero- 
sity, by contributing some assistance to the poor 
and distressed inhabitants of a sister city, which has 
been visited by a deluge almost as dreadful in its ef- 
fects, as a general conflagration. 

H. M. BRACKENRIDGE. 

Baltimore^ June 19, 1816. 



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